ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
The kit you posted is a solid kit, and also I found they are offering a 10% discount site wide, use coupon code 301303. In this case, it still come out quite a bit cheaper than the ultimate kit.
4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
The kit you posted is a solid kit, and also I found they are offering a 10% discount site wide, use coupon code 301303. In this case, it still come out quite a bit cheaper than the ultimate kit.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
As long as you don't run wheel spacers, it *should* fit with no rubbing. Every setup is different, so your results may vary. It shouldn't take a huge amount of trimming to fix any rubbing you may encounter. Personally, I love that size, I think it's a great fit. I'm running the equivalent size for an 18" wheel on my 4runner.
snivilous
Senior Member
zopperman: I copied this over from the 3rd gen section, I thought it was worth reading, I learned something. Thanks [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]
There are a lot of claims for the 5100 shocks, and I would like to explain two (what I would call) misconceptions. If you see any mistakes or have any questions, please tell me.
1. Preload
People say when you increase the perch setting you are "preloading" the springs. I don't know if the term preload is just thrown around, but regardless it is the wrong term when it is usually used.
A spring is defined by Hooke’s Law:
F= -kx
This means that with a force (F) and constant spring rate (k) a spring will always compress the same amount (x). When you adjust the perch setting on the shock, you are not changing the spring rate or the total force applied, so the spring will always compress the same amount -- moving the perch only changes the position of the spring seat (making the truck taller or lower), not the "preload" on the spring.
2. Perch Harshness
People claim that at higher perch settings the ride is harsher. We've established that the spring rate doesn’t change as the perch setting moves.
The 5100 is a viscous damper meaning its damping is velocity dependent and not position dependent. In that regard, perch setting shouldn't modify the harshness because the velocity of the shock isn’t dependent on perch height.
My assumption of people saying they feel a harsher ride is a result of new shocks, springs, the truck sitting taller, sway bars effective stiffness, etc.
There are a lot of claims for the 5100 shocks, and I would like to explain two (what I would call) misconceptions. If you see any mistakes or have any questions, please tell me.
1. Preload
People say when you increase the perch setting you are "preloading" the springs. I don't know if the term preload is just thrown around, but regardless it is the wrong term when it is usually used.
A spring is defined by Hooke’s Law:
F= -kx
This means that with a force (F) and constant spring rate (k) a spring will always compress the same amount (x). When you adjust the perch setting on the shock, you are not changing the spring rate or the total force applied, so the spring will always compress the same amount -- moving the perch only changes the position of the spring seat (making the truck taller or lower), not the "preload" on the spring.
2. Perch Harshness
People claim that at higher perch settings the ride is harsher. We've established that the spring rate doesn’t change as the perch setting moves.
The 5100 is a viscous damper meaning its damping is velocity dependent and not position dependent. In that regard, perch setting shouldn't modify the harshness because the velocity of the shock isn’t dependent on perch height.
My assumption of people saying they feel a harsher ride is a result of new shocks, springs, the truck sitting taller, sway bars effective stiffness, etc.
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zopperman
Moderator
5100s on sale from DSM today for 295 shipped, thanks [MENTION=87539]wnelax04sr5[/MENTION] for that heads up.
So here are my options - right now running FJ rears + daystar 1.5" spacers. I will be replacing all 4 shocks and the front springs only. I'd like to achieve around 3" of lift in the front.
1) 5100s at .85, Eibach springs at 1.6" and top plate spaces on each side for 1/2" lift for just shy of 3"
2) 5100s at 1.75" eibach springs at 1.6" and top plate spacer to fix the lean. I'm leaning toward this option, but I'm worried about reverse rake/cv issues. Problem is I want to buy the 5100s from DSM and the Eibach springs from toytec, toytec doesn't sell the top hats that they use with their assembled c/os, but assembled they run like 600 for the fronts alone which seems silly when I can piecemeal it for under ~500 total.
3) OME 884 or 885 with top plate spacer, 5100s on lowest setting. Im worried about ride harshness with this one (the 885) Seems like the 885's will be OK - the only additional weight I have is sliders, and I keep seeing people getting 2.25-2.5" of lift as opposed to the advertised 2". Which means I should get a 1/4" top plate spacer good for 1/2" of lift instead of a 1/2" spacer for 1" of lift.
:help:
So here are my options - right now running FJ rears + daystar 1.5" spacers. I will be replacing all 4 shocks and the front springs only. I'd like to achieve around 3" of lift in the front.
1) 5100s at .85, Eibach springs at 1.6" and top plate spaces on each side for 1/2" lift for just shy of 3"
2) 5100s at 1.75" eibach springs at 1.6" and top plate spacer to fix the lean. I'm leaning toward this option, but I'm worried about reverse rake/cv issues. Problem is I want to buy the 5100s from DSM and the Eibach springs from toytec, toytec doesn't sell the top hats that they use with their assembled c/os, but assembled they run like 600 for the fronts alone which seems silly when I can piecemeal it for under ~500 total.
3) OME 884 or 885 with top plate spacer, 5100s on lowest setting. Im worried about ride harshness with this one (the 885) Seems like the 885's will be OK - the only additional weight I have is sliders, and I keep seeing people getting 2.25-2.5" of lift as opposed to the advertised 2". Which means I should get a 1/4" top plate spacer good for 1/2" of lift instead of a 1/2" spacer for 1" of lift.
:help:
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ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Not real familiar with the Eibachs Toytec sells. Both the OME 884 & 885 are the same rate, just different heights. Your ride quality would be the same, just different lift heights. If you're not planning to add weight, why not FJ coils for the front?
Also, I don't like adding spacers to the 5100s on the front, could potentially cause some issues with overextension. A 1/4" spacer is probably negligible, but I wouldn't want to go bigger.
zopperman
Moderator
I thought about that, but I want to disconnect the sway bar and have something stiffer. I think the dampening from the 5100s goes well with the EIbachs after having ridden in [MENTION=72341]NJshadow93[/MENTION] 's truck and felt it. It's stiff, but not too stiff. After speaking with TT they seem to recommend option A (.85 w/ 3/8" spacer good for ~3/4" lift) which is the wyay taht I am leaning. for an additional 200 bucks, I could get the springs with an adjustable collar, essentially making my own coilover. Which would be sweet, but I kinda want the money for skids.
A while back, I had a shop replace my front xreas (LONG LONG STORY) and this is what the end result is right now
[MENTION=46025]HokieRunner[/MENTION] - tagged as promised, from here down
XREAS has started to leak, the shock is barely dampening and the springs are sagging so it's time for a front end overhaul.
Hey, ARK do you think I'll need new bushings or top hats? I can't really tell why the shocks aren't sitting the right way? The morons at the shop definitely butchered the install, but I need to know which parts to replace. I'm thinking they may have used the wrong bushings??
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zopperman
Moderator
Should I replace the bushings at all you think? they almost look to me like they are the wrong size or that the shop really messed up and didnt install them correctly. Too bad it got to the point it did and the xreas got messed up. Good excuse to buy the billies while they were on sale.
BigNuge
New member
Yes. In those pictures it looks like the upper bushings are wiped out. The top hat should be fine, unless it has been banged up from the shock moving around (unlikely).
When you order the 5100's just add new bushings & washers. Done and done.
I LOVE my FJ springs & 5100's all the way around. Great ride and off-road is solid (not that I do real serious off roading). No spacers up front BTW.
zopperman
Moderator
I'm only adding the spacers because I want the truck to sit higher - .85 isnt enough and 1.75 is too much (remember 1.6" from the springs) BUT the stupid bushings are proprietary to toyota according to down south motor sports so i'll have to order them to the stealer
wnelax04sr5
New member
no rockauto?
edit: if you replace the top hats do they include new bushings? just spit balling here
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zopperman
Moderator
Nope, didn't see them there either, Conicelli it is...
wnelax04sr5
New member
boo as far as i know mine look fine, and actually look nothing like yours..
zopperman
Moderator
Pic when you have a chance if you don't mind. I'm telling you, I think the upper bushings are the wrong part :redbrick:
wnelax04sr5
New member
i put pants on for this.
also, zak, look at the conicelli diagram.... this is odd: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2004/Toyota/4Runner/SR5?siteid=840&vehicleid=174912&diagram=F809186
when i got the fj struts i have, they didn't even have bushings with them... tbh i never really looked at the top of my struts, especially when i pulled them for the spacers.
driver/passenger sides attached
Attachments
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zopperman
Moderator
I'm just confused now. What do you see in the diagram?
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/20...&component=&searchText=&startRow=11&maxRow=10
Looks different for my truck. [MENTION=98468]BigNuge[/MENTION] - maybe that lower nut is missing, part #9??
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wnelax04sr5
New member
parts listed for the front strut assembly, top plate, shock, coil, lower bushing. aren't the bushings pressed into the top plate?
zopperman
Moderator
See the diagram I posted above for mine, looks like part #7 that isn't right.
ETA - looks like the diagram you posted is for 2wd non xreas?
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