Usually because the ABS Sensor wire running over the UCA and down the upright gets damaged (stretched). But you can try a ZPC first to eliminate that.
4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
Usually because the ABS Sensor wire running over the UCA and down the upright gets damaged (stretched). But you can try a ZPC first to eliminate that.
New to the forum, but I've read most of this thread over the last week and a half.
I have an 04 Sport Edition 4WD stock. I'm mostly an on-road type of guy but I want to make the runner look more aggressive (and fill out the wheel wells) and less grocery getter.
For now I was thinking about a 3/2 Spacer Lift (money reasons) along with 275/70R17 KO2's with 1.25 wheel spacers.
Questions:
1. Is there any difference between Cornfed and Toytec spacer lifts
2. Would there be rubbing issues with combination
3. For on road use, is there any downside to using a spacer lift
Thanks
I have an 04 Sport Edition 4WD stock. I'm mostly an on-road type of guy but I want to make the runner look more aggressive (and fill out the wheel wells) and less grocery getter.
For now I was thinking about a 3/2 Spacer Lift (money reasons) along with 275/70R17 KO2's with 1.25 wheel spacers.
Questions:
1. Is there any difference between Cornfed and Toytec spacer lifts
2. Would there be rubbing issues with combination
3. For on road use, is there any downside to using a spacer lift
Thanks
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I think in your case a spacer lift would be fine, IF you have good shocks. How many miles are on your 4runner? I'm guessing it's probably time to replace them . You could do Bilstein 5100s and a Daystar rear spacer for $370. Are you doing the install, or paying to have it done?
1. Function wise they are the same, I'd pick whichever is cheaper
2. You will probably have some minor rubbing in the front. Push the fender liner forward and either trim or remove the mud flaps and you should be fine.
3. As said above, it's fine for your intended use, but only if your shocks are good.
BigNuge
New member
3" up front you should be fine with stock UCA's
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I would suggest taking a good look at the shocks. If you can see where any fluid has been leaking, replace them. Otherwise, you should be okay with just the spacer lift considering the miles. The only thing is there's no guarantee how long XREAS will last, so you may end up paying to have shocks installed a year down the road. Also, be sure the shop you're using is familiar with XREAS and knows not to disconnect the lines.
With a 3/2 spacer lift, you should be ok with the stock UCA's.
Help, advice needed
Hi everyone,
I have a 2006 4Runner Ltd with Xreas and Ras (airbag). I don't want to raise the vehicle but have been seriously thinking of abandoning the Xreas and installing aftermarket shocks and springs. I've read a lot about the Bilsteins 5100 and they would be probably be my first choice. My Runner has 164,000 Km on it now and although I do a lot of driving on pavement, my hobbies take me backcountry. What advice can you give me as the old Xreas system is going to pot now (runs bit harsher than I can remember) and the dealer states I have some sweating in my suspension.
I appreciate your input!
Hi everyone,
I have a 2006 4Runner Ltd with Xreas and Ras (airbag). I don't want to raise the vehicle but have been seriously thinking of abandoning the Xreas and installing aftermarket shocks and springs. I've read a lot about the Bilsteins 5100 and they would be probably be my first choice. My Runner has 164,000 Km on it now and although I do a lot of driving on pavement, my hobbies take me backcountry. What advice can you give me as the old Xreas system is going to pot now (runs bit harsher than I can remember) and the dealer states I have some sweating in my suspension.
I appreciate your input!
Thanks man!
What should I do?
I have an stock 04 SR5 V8. I want to invest in a nice suspension system for both on and off. I want to be able to handle almost anything off road but I am new at it. I was thinking about an Icon stage 5 tubular...... but is that over kill? I know it is expensive but see it as buy it nice or buy it twice.... is there something less expensive that will hold up just as well? after suspension and tires. whats next?.... armor? thanks for the feed back!
I have an stock 04 SR5 V8. I want to invest in a nice suspension system for both on and off. I want to be able to handle almost anything off road but I am new at it. I was thinking about an Icon stage 5 tubular...... but is that over kill? I know it is expensive but see it as buy it nice or buy it twice.... is there something less expensive that will hold up just as well? after suspension and tires. whats next?.... armor? thanks for the feed back!
what would be the best way to get the most out of bilstein 5100s, and the lowest cost? I've an 05 sport edition v6. I want to get the max lift I can, which seems like 2.5". Can I use spacers to get higher? I'm also interested in running a steel bumper w/ winch, so I'm assuming I need bigger springs to support that.
I won't be doing any crawling, I don't think... but I'd love to hit up trails and do some mudding.
I won't be doing any crawling, I don't think... but I'd love to hit up trails and do some mudding.
Since you are getting a bumper you need to get Springs to that are able to hold the heavier weight. The good news is those springs will lift the front too so you'll make up for the heavier bumper. You could easily get 3", but be prepared for new uca's as you'll stress them at that angle. When you have the money get the uca's and no worries. Springs are fairly cheap and there are a ton to choose from.
I assume that I'd look ridiculous with the springs that'll support the bumper, without the bumper?
I'd really just need shocks, springs, and UCA's to pull off a 3" lift? what about sway bar relocation?
No, just set the 5100 on a lower perch. Worst case, it rides rougher until you get the bumper. Also, you can wait to do the springs til you get the bumper.
I ditched my sway bar. Not really needed, but that's up to you. You can buy a sway bar relocation from places like toytec. It'll line it back up. I drove without any sway bar and didn't have an issue. Leaned a little then the shocks stopped it. I put the rear back on due to my height, going to 35's soon, and hauling a 12' enclosed work trailer. Getting rid of the front will help you tremendously offroad too.
Nice. Thanks for the info. So it really doesn't cost much to lift my 4runner and replace the xreas.it's basically grab 4 5100s, 3" lift springs, and UCAs. Now... I suppose I should just wait and save up to do that and grab larger tires at the same time. Tires and lift in a couple months bumper some time after.
Thanks again, there is so much info to take in
Ya, 5100's cost me $335, rear Daystar 1.5" block cost me $35, and the 2.5" body lift cost me $315. So I have spent $685 total on my lift.
No complaints here! I do want to get new springs this next summer but I think I'm going to hold off cause I would really like to get a long travel setup for the front.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
The main decision will be if you're going to keep the RAS, as it somewhat limits your options. If you want to keep it, I'd go with Bilstein 5100's in the front with either OEM FJ or Tacoma springs if you can find them. They will provide a mild lift in front, up to 1". The main reason I suggest these is because they ride/handle better then OEM springs, and also they are somewhat cheap if you can find them used. For the rear, you need a stock length shock if you keep RAS, so I'd go with the Bilstein HD rear shocks. They are the same valving as the rear 5100's, the only difference is that they are stock length. If you want to ditch RAS, then I'd go with the 5100's on the rear and OEM FJ springs (if you can find a set reasonably priced).
That's definitely a great setup, and while it may be overkill for now, it'd be something you can "grow" into. If you were to get that setup, I'd opt for the CDC valves so you can dial in the shocks to suit your needs. Also, Metal Tech 4x4 and various other Icon vendors will be offering 20% off on Black Friday.
Since you mentioned a bumper, I'd look into OME 885's for the front. Those should give you ~3" lift with the front bumper.
salong53
New member
Update: The Daystar spacer lift has settled in some. Mostly the front, I would estimate 1/2". I had to get two alignments because I was unhappy with the caster after the 1st alignment. The steering didn't want to return to center easily, which changed the driving characteristics drastically, especially in parking lots and during tight turns. The second alignment fixed this problem.
A lot of posts say that the spacer lift does not change driving characteristics; however, I disagree to a certain extent. First, the front end feels firmer to me. Definitely more resistant to brake dive, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Second, when going over angled speed bumps or off-camber roads, the vehicle sways slightly more than it did when it was stock, but that's to be expected with a higher center of gravity. It gives the illusion that you have a stiffer front sway bar. The truck still corners just as well, albeit slightly more prone to understeer (that is if the invasive stability control would actually allow it to slide). The rear end feels exactly as it did stock.
If I had it to do over again, I think I would have dropped the extra coin for Bilstein 5100s all around with the 1.5 spacer in the rear.
T4Rbestride
New member
Hi everyone!
First post, any advice or help appreciated.
I have a 2003 V8 limited and RAS sensors are rusted. I am glad for this forum with the vast knowledge and pointing me away from replacing sensors at 1000$+ ;I always wanted to lift mine after buying it 2 years ago and here’s as good time as any.
I have read the full 86 pages over last few weeks and have decided to go with the Blistens 5100 with front OME 885 and rear superflex. I still have a few questions as I haven’t seen any specifics with RAS lift gains since the OP with the latest options. I do not want to go higher then 3" to avoid UCA/saw bar relocates/brake line... but would like level/eliminate the rake... I have Toyo's 165/70/17 that is rubbing slightly in the front at stock.
I plan to get the rear coil conversion kit from Metalteck but wondering if you recommend the small or complete kit 60 vs 250$. Want to make my mechanics life easier but wondering if the complete kit is worth the extra
200$? With the OME and superlfex, will I need spacers or will I be close to 3/2? Do the coil isolators provide lift too? I've read that its better to leave the 5100's at 0 to prevent preload but many seem to go to second and third notch.
There’s also kits from Toytec/Icon that seem nice but my 5100/885/toytec is running me around 1300$(Canadian duties, taxes and shipping) :crybaby: without the coil isolators and labor so would like you guys advice that did yours with or without. I've tried to find FJ coils but not popular in Atlantic Canada. I know Toyota makes great trucks and I’m only at 167km (100 000miles) but 11 yrs. old with frame rust from salt roads. Would like to keep another 3-5 years but don’t want to spend too much. Its daily driver, would like to do light off-road and maintain a nice ride.
Thank you and sorry about the long post:doh:
First post, any advice or help appreciated.
I have a 2003 V8 limited and RAS sensors are rusted. I am glad for this forum with the vast knowledge and pointing me away from replacing sensors at 1000$+ ;I always wanted to lift mine after buying it 2 years ago and here’s as good time as any.
I have read the full 86 pages over last few weeks and have decided to go with the Blistens 5100 with front OME 885 and rear superflex. I still have a few questions as I haven’t seen any specifics with RAS lift gains since the OP with the latest options. I do not want to go higher then 3" to avoid UCA/saw bar relocates/brake line... but would like level/eliminate the rake... I have Toyo's 165/70/17 that is rubbing slightly in the front at stock.
I plan to get the rear coil conversion kit from Metalteck but wondering if you recommend the small or complete kit 60 vs 250$. Want to make my mechanics life easier but wondering if the complete kit is worth the extra
200$? With the OME and superlfex, will I need spacers or will I be close to 3/2? Do the coil isolators provide lift too? I've read that its better to leave the 5100's at 0 to prevent preload but many seem to go to second and third notch.
There’s also kits from Toytec/Icon that seem nice but my 5100/885/toytec is running me around 1300$(Canadian duties, taxes and shipping) :crybaby: without the coil isolators and labor so would like you guys advice that did yours with or without. I've tried to find FJ coils but not popular in Atlantic Canada. I know Toyota makes great trucks and I’m only at 167km (100 000miles) but 11 yrs. old with frame rust from salt roads. Would like to keep another 3-5 years but don’t want to spend too much. Its daily driver, would like to do light off-road and maintain a nice ride.
Thank you and sorry about the long post:doh:
Travtaz997
New member
I've been doing some research on the 5100's + FJ Coils but have a few questions.
Currently I have stock suspension on my '07 SR5, with a 1.5in spacer up front. My Shrockworks front bumper should be here sometime in December. My overall goal is to get some lift and to be pretty leveled out.
Would I achieve this with 5100's all around and FJ coils only in the rear? , with the 1.5in spacer up front and the weight of the bumper?
Currently I have stock suspension on my '07 SR5, with a 1.5in spacer up front. My Shrockworks front bumper should be here sometime in December. My overall goal is to get some lift and to be pretty leveled out.
Would I achieve this with 5100's all around and FJ coils only in the rear? , with the 1.5in spacer up front and the weight of the bumper?
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