4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

Well, I haven't personally used them, but I always hear about how great the OME are. You can get most of your lift just from the coils too. I think they're all about the same price too. If you get cold that lift and then an offroad bumper later you can adjust the Bilsteins up higher to compensate.
 
Yes! And I was worried I would have to get new coils after the bumper to keep the same lift. Taking all this advice. [MENTION=101553]t-man[/MENTION]
 
Yes, I put a spacer on and set my Bilsteins at 0" lift a couple weeks ago. Gave me a smoother ride. You can adjust the Bilsteins to get the lift you want. Just remember, if you go above 3" you'll need uca's and a dif drop to compensate.

Do you happen to have a part number for the FJ Coils? Would they provide any extra lift or would it just provide a more comfortable ride?

I am about to order the parts from Toytec and just wanted to make sure I am good with what I am getting. So far I have the Bilstein 5100's for both the front and rear and the OME 895 rear coils. Would you recommend adding anything else while I am ordering these?

I see that Toytec has a differential drop kit for $30, which isn't much in my opinion. If I did go ahead and get the Differential drop kit, what options would that open up for me that would achieve more than 3 inches?

Sorry for so many questions but I am just trying to make sure I get the right suspension the first time because I wont be upgrading for a while.
 
Do you happen to have a part number for the FJ Coils? Would they provide any extra lift or would it just provide a more comfortable ride?

I am about to order the parts from Toytec and just wanted to make sure I am good with what I am getting. So far I have the Bilstein 5100's for both the front and rear and the OME 895 rear coils. Would you recommend adding anything else while I am ordering these?

I see that Toytec has a differential drop kit for $30, which isn't much in my opinion. If I did go ahead and get the Differential drop kit, what options would that open up for me that would achieve more than 3 inches?

Sorry for so many questions but I am just trying to make sure I get the right suspension the first time because I wont be upgrading for a while.

Of you go on rockauto and punch in 2007 FJ cruiser you'll find the coils under the suspension tab.
The FJ coils will provide .5-1" of lift over stock and are slightly firmer providing better control over bumps and such.
Going over 3" puts your cv axles in a bind. By dropping the dif it drops your cv down so the angle is closer to stock again. At 3" my cv boots have about an 1/8" clearance to the shock mount on my lca's. A drop would correct that as well. The drop is just cheap assurance for your cv axles health.
Aftermarket coils will have a higher spring rate, again helping in offroad ability, handling , and they will lift more than the FJ coils as well.
 
Review for me please?

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, so I'll apologize in advance, but I was this close to hitting the enter button to order the below setup for the 2006 V8 I just bought, and I stopped myself because I really wanted a few of the friendly experts on here to stop me if it is a bad idea.

Corndfed 3/2. I am not much of an offroader. Occasional dirt roads. I just want the lift for aesthetics and bigger tires.

Moto Metal O969. 18X9, 0 offset. I like the looks of black and chrome but also that the chrome inserts can come out and be painted gunmetal.

Toyo Open Country AT II. LT275/65R18. Wanted the AT for the nicer ride than an MT and the price is right. I've had Hankook ATs and Dueler Revo II and liked them both but sidewall was too plain (These other tires where on my earlier Toyota trucks).

Question: I have done a lot of googling on here, including reading the sticky on lifts and believe I will fit ok, but again, I wanted someone to help me confirm that I should only have some minor trimming of the fender well with a 0 offset, 9" wheel and the above size tire. I don't really foresee caring if it does it at full lock occasionally.

As soon as I am able to post, I'll be happy to put the pictures on here along with my new headlights and my soon-to-be instrument cluster light color swap.

Thanks a whole bunch:hungry:
 
Suspension options for a 2/1

Hello,

I'd start a new thread, but I don't have the minimum thread count so I'll spam here.

I have a 2007 4wd SR5 v6 with ~95k miles on it. New tire time is approaching and I'd like to step up to something a bit more, but not crazy - I've done that with a previous car. I've decided i'd like to stay around the 2" front, 1" rear option to fit some nicely sized 265/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s on either some stock or after market rims. If i go aftermarket rims I will stay around the 31" total tire size but might go up to 18".

With that, if i'm going to take apart the front and rear suspension I might as well refresh the stock versus adding spacers and this is where I'm can't seem to find the correct info.

Any suggestions on how to do a 2/1 lift with new suspension and not with spacers? Or is that a poor choice for a reason I don't know about?

Any help would be great.
 
Of you go on rockauto and punch in 2007 FJ cruiser you'll find the coils under the suspension tab.
The FJ coils will provide .5-1" of lift over stock and are slightly firmer providing better control over bumps and such.
Going over 3" puts your cv axles in a bind. By dropping the dif it drops your cv down so the angle is closer to stock again. At 3" my cv boots have about an 1/8" clearance to the shock mount on my lca's. A drop would correct that as well. The drop is just cheap assurance for your cv axles health.
Aftermarket coils will have a higher spring rate, again helping in offroad ability, handling , and they will lift more than the FJ coils as well.

Good stuff on here especially the last few pages worth. Thanks for the input...for every dude that asks the questions, there's 20 of us lurking. Ha
 
Hello,

I'd start a new thread, but I don't have the minimum thread count so I'll spam here.

I have a 2007 4wd SR5 v6 with ~95k miles on it. New tire time is approaching and I'd like to step up to something a bit more, but not crazy - I've done that with a previous car. I've decided i'd like to stay around the 2" front, 1" rear option to fit some nicely sized 265/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s on either some stock or after market rims. If i go aftermarket rims I will stay around the 31" total tire size but might go up to 18".

With that, if i'm going to take apart the front and rear suspension I might as well refresh the stock versus adding spacers and this is where I'm can't seem to find the correct info.

Any suggestions on how to do a 2/1 lift with new suspension and not with spacers? Or is that a poor choice for a reason I don't know about?

Any help would be great.

If you order Bilstein shocks they are adjustable and you can get up to 2.5" of lift with them. For the rear you can get aftermarket coils that lift or even FJ coils will give you .5-1" of lift. Fj coils front with the bilsteins set at .85 will give you a mostly level look, set them at 1.75 with the FJ coils and you'll be just over 2" of lift for the front. No spacers. Also, any coilover or shock w/ lift coil will get you where you'd like too.
 
Good suggestions there. I thinking I'll try the OME 883 coils in the front, bilsteins all around, and a set of custom coils (10% stiffer than stock + 1") from coilsprings.com. Custom rear coils for ~250 a pair in the rear.

Should give me ~1" in rear, ~2-2.5 in front.
 
Sorry if the answer is contained somewhere in this thread, but I just don't have time to read the over 100 pages.

I'm thinking of going with OME coil springs, and either OME shocks/struts, or Bil 5100 shocks/struts.

The original post said this about the OME coils:

OME (Old Man EMU, not to be confused with stock, OEM)
• OME offers different coil options for v6/v8 4runners and also for those at stock or with added weight.
• Provide lift by using more wraps of coils and higher spring rate
- Higher spring rate = stiffer ride
• Front coils-should provide 2.5”-3” lift for listed application
- 883-Good for leveling the front with stock rear-approx 1.5" lift
- 884-For use on stock weight v6
- 885-For use on stock weigh v8, or v6 with added weight
- 886-For use on v8 with added weight
- Front coils often combined with ¼” thick spacer for a full 3” lift
• Rear coils
- 895e-stock weight, 1” lift
- 895-stock weight, 2” lift, over 40% stiffer than stock
- 896-weight added, 2” lift

However the print off I got from the local OME dealer (same one you can get of their website, has different info on the lift height).

For the front springs is says the 884 will lift 1", the 885 2", and the 886 2.5". It does not give me the option of 883 for 2008 4Runner.

For the rear springs it says 895, 896 and 897 all lift 2".

I'm confused as OME says, for example, that the 884 coils will provide 1" of lift, whereas this posting says the 884 will lift the front 2.5-3"

Also on OME's site it does not give me the option of 895e for rear coils, only 895, 896, 897.

Sorry kind of confused...:sad:
 
Okay anyone got suggestion in tires? removing XREAS adding 5100s all around with fronts set at 2.5 and 1.5" daystar spacer in rear...265/70-17 new pro comp wheels w 0 offset...looking at new cooper stt pros - thoughts?
 
Sorry kind of confused...:sad:

No problem. It is a confusing decision and one you don't want to go back and have to fix. I used a full OME kit on my 06/V6. My build is here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/199352-sammy-build-exploration-thread.html
I did wanted some lift but not the 3" that is common. I initially went with the 884/895e springs. I like where the rear sat but the front looked and felt nose high. Axle to wheel well numbers showed about 1/4" or so of rake though if IIRC. I also didn't like the angles I was seeing under the front end. I contacted ARB who advised that the 895e rear springs are meant to be paired with the 883 fronts. I made the swap and like the stance much better. It dropped me about 1" in the front and gave me about 1" of rake.
For technicalities. 883, 884, 885 are all the same spring rates each is approximately .5" taller in height. From my reading and my experience physical height difference in springs or spacers in the front yields double the change in ride height. So my .5" spring height difference yielded my 1" difference in height. I believe the 895/895e is the same story. Same spring rate just different height.
In my experience and from seeing other people's threads the net lift numbers ARB/OME provide are a pipe dream. Although I forgot to measure before hand, based on measuring identical year/package trucks and from data from the site that the 884 actually showed me about a 3.5+" lift in the front. 883 is at about 2.5" I ordered from Toytec but talked to Wheelers as well. Both techs said my initial setup would be fine. I obviously didn't agree after it was all said and done. Slee has my setup listed as their low lift for the 4th Gens. I suggested to both Toytec and Wheelers that since they offer the 895e as a package build option that, based on ARB's advise, they also put the 883 springs in as an option. I had to go searching and they carry them but I think they were listed in the Tacoma section. I do not know if they ever considered my suggestion.
That was long but hopefully helpful.
 
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MaxTrac Kit

On RealTruck.com there is a kit that is the 4inch spindles with rear 2.5 springs, I can't find anyone on here running that with the rear springs.. Any feedback?


 
98 4runner SR5 2WD- Shocks & Springs Insight

Hey guys, I have a question: I have a 98' 4Runner SR5 2WD & I'm looking to put new shocks & springs all the way around. What would be a good route to take as far as an upgrade for a height difference & smoother ride difference. Factory Tacoma, Sequoia, Land Cruiser? Thanks!
 
No problem. It is a confusing decision and one you don't want to go back and have to fix. I used a full OME kit on my 06/V6. My build is here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/199352-sammy-build-exploration-thread.html
I did wanted some lift but not the 3" that is common. I initially went with the 884/895e springs. I like where the rear sat but the front looked and felt nose high. Axle to wheel well numbers showed about 1/4" or so of rake though if IIRC. I also didn't like the angles I was seeing under the front end. I contacted ARB who advised that the 895e rear springs are meant to be paired with the 883 fronts. I made the swap and like the stance much better. It dropped me about 1" in the front and gave me about 1" of rake.
For technicalities. 883, 884, 885 are all the same spring rates each is approximately .5" taller in height. From my reading and my experience physical height difference in springs or spacers in the front yields double the change in ride height. So my .5" spring height difference yielded my 1" difference in height. I believe the 895/895e is the same story. Same spring rate just different height.
In my experience and from seeing other people's threads the net lift numbers ARB/OME provide are a pipe dream. Although I forgot to measure before hand, based on measuring identical year/package trucks and from data from the site that the 884 actually showed me about a 30.5+" lift in the front. 883 is at about 2.5" I ordered from Toytec but talked to Wheelers as well. Both techs said my initial setup would be fine. I obviously didn't agree after it was all said and done. Slee has my setup listed as their low lift for the 4th Gens. I suggested to both Toytec and Wheelers that since they offer the 895e as a package build option that, based on ARB's advise, they also put the 883 springs in as an option. I had to go searching and they carry them but I think they were listed in the Tacoma section. I do not know if they ever considered my suggestion.
That was long but hopefully helpful.

MN4RNR: thanks a LOT for that! I also read your thread on the Sammy build.

I want my 08 sport to come out looking more or less like yours.

In the "how Sammy looks now" pic, is that with the 255/75/17 tires? They look smaller to me.

Right now the 4R has the stock 265/65/17s. My plan is to get the suspension done first as the OEM shocks/struts are pretty shot. Then probably next summer replace the tires and go to 265/70/17. SO, the suspension job might look a tad funny at first as it'll be with the smaller tires. My hope is that it will "fill in" and look how I want it to look after I get the new rubber.

I like the way your 883/895e combo turned out. What do you think about going with the 884/895 combo with 265/70/17 tires? If I encoded what you wrote properly, the 884 are 0.5 inches taller than the 883s, however in reality the lift will "double" giving the 884s about and inch more lift than the 883? Did I read that right?

In reality (dismissing what is one the OME website) it looks like the 884/895 combo will yield about a 3" lift in the front and 2" in the rear? For comparison sake OME says the 884 will raise the front 1" and the 895 will raise the rear 2".

I want to end up with a bit of a rake, not equal height in both wheel wells. When I load up the back with camping gear and hook up our quad or boat trailer, I don't want the rear to look saggy.

Right now, although I hate how low the front end is, is does level out half decent with some weight in the rear of the 4 runner and some weight on the hitch.

Also you said the 884 gave you 30.5 in the front, I'm assuming you meant 3.5?
 
Hey guys, I have a question: I have a 98' 4Runner SR5 2WD & I'm looking to put new shocks & springs all the way around. What would be a good route to take as far as an upgrade for a height difference & smoother ride difference. Factory Tacoma, Sequoia, Land Cruiser? Thanks!

You should probably be checking the 3rd gen section of this forum (this is the 4th gen section and your asking about a an older model). Also, there are stickies at the top of the page that will answer most suspension questions so it's worth the read.
 
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