4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

Okay, so this might have an Obvious answer, buttttt

I have an '04 4WD w/ X-Reas, when I replace the suspension I plan to Delete the system and do a leveling kit.

Could I buy a Tacoma Coil Over set and rear shocks? I mean FJ/Tacoma/4Runner should all be the same yeah?

it doesn't have to be 4runner specific right?


The suspension link in my sig should be helpful.
 
Hey guys!

Anthony over at toyteclifts here! I noticed a lot of guys had questions on suspension here and I've been setting a few guys on here with full suspension with the forum discount! If anyone has questions dont hesitate to ask and shoot me a message or even call us at toyteclifts and hit my ext 113!
 
Alright guys...I'm trying to gain more height in the front. I currently have a 5100/885 combo with the clip at the bottom and I am thinking of adding a spacer. Can I run this 1.25" Lift Poly Front Coil Top Spacer Kit for 2005+ Tacoma, 2003+ 4Runner, 2007+ FJ Cruiser (KT09105-4R-03+) spacer to fix my issues? Also, with this type of spacer I only need to place it between the strut top and the strut tower right? No need for spring/strut disassembly like with the "top hat spacers" right?

I went with a 3/4 alloy spacer from Toytec, you still have to disassemble the shock and spring to change to top mount bolts. Worked well for an extra inch lift with my bumper.
 
Sway bar relocating bracket and longer links together or can be either of the two?
I want get 2.5" lift kit too that will not compromise ride quality, what front and rear combination should i get?

Thank you Gentlemen!!!

The 'relocate bracket' is for the front.
The longer links are for the rear.

Alright guys...I'm trying to gain more height in the front. I currently have a 5100/885 combo with the clip at the bottom and I am thinking of adding a spacer. Can I run this 1.25" Lift Poly Front Coil Top Spacer Kit for 2005+ Tacoma, 2003+ 4Runner, 2007+ FJ Cruiser (KT09105-4R-03+) spacer to fix my issues? Also, with this type of spacer I only need to place it between the strut top and the strut tower right? No need for spring/strut disassembly like with the "top hat spacers" right?

You should be able to fit 1/4" in without pulling the coil off. Equates to 1/2" actual.
More than 1/4" spacer needs longer bolts to to fit the cheap poly spacer.
You can get aluminum spacer that is machined to fix the shorter bolts.

Also its is really easy to pull these coils apart with the 'No spring-compressor' method. BTW.
 
Hey guys!

Anthony over at toyteclifts here! I noticed a lot of guys had questions on suspension here and I've been setting a few guys on here with full suspension with the forum discount! If anyone has questions dont hesitate to ask and shoot me a message or even call us at toyteclifts and hit my ext 113!

Nice, great to see vendors here supporting. What's the forum discount?

My plan is 5100s all around and OME 884s in front (front shocks set to .85, will be adding a front bumper soon) and superflexes in back. Looking for a mild lift and leveling things out.

Any issues with that? Will I need aftermarket UCAs? Would the boss suspension system be a better way to go?
 
2008 SR5 2WD rear suspension question

I have a 2008 SR5 2WD and the rear ride height seems off. The front is at 33.5" (from the ground to fender) but the rear is just over 39". No lift has been done, there aren't any spacers, and the shocks are Bilstein 4600s all the way around. Does anyone know what could be causing the rear to sit so high?
 
If you compress a OME lift spring on the 5100 theres a chance the C-clip/spring bracket will fail.
 
Is it okay that I have rubbing in reverse only? 2" lift + 255/75r17 and after an alignment I am getting a rubbing noise. Going to ask the shop to adjust the caster but my friend told me I have a bigger problem as there should be a zero play of the wheel back to forward. Should I be concerned or is it okay to just adjust the caster?
 
How long do OEM springs last before the "sag"?

I've got 132k miles on my 2008 and the rake is pretty steep. I don't remember them being so bad from the factory. I'm thinking 5100's at .85 but don't want to waste time if the factory springs are shot.
 
How long do OEM springs last before the "sag"?

I've got 132k miles on my 2008 and the rake is pretty steep. I don't remember them being so bad from the factory. I'm thinking 5100's at .85 but don't want to waste time if the factory springs are shot.


IMO new springs are probably a great investment once you hit 100K miles and/or 10+ years, and they’re not expensive. My “XREAS delete...” thread, linked in my sig, may be helpful.
 
If you compress a OME lift spring on the 5100 theres a chance the C-clip/spring bracket will fail.

Assuming this was in response to my running OME coils with 5100s on the lowest setting - what's the ideal solution to gain a slight lift but more importantly level things out?

I believe several folks are running this setup with no issues, so just curious for clarification. Thanks!
 
Assuming this was in response to my running OME coils with 5100s on the lowest setting - what's the ideal solution to gain a slight lift but more importantly level things out?



I believe several folks are running this setup with no issues, so just curious for clarification. Thanks!
5100s at 0.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
My comment

Assuming this was in response to my running OME coils with 5100s on the lowest setting - what's the ideal solution to gain a slight lift but more importantly level things out?

I believe several folks are running this setup with no issues, so just curious for clarification. Thanks!

was based on your saying you were going to move the c-clip to the .85" position from the "0" lowest position. The two aren't designed to work with one another. The 5100 is design to provide lift by compressing a OE rated spring and with the 884 the lift it provides is from its length and additional weight rating. When you take a coil like the 884, an compress it onto a 5100 you create a weak point at were the lower coil bracket, c-clip and c-clip groove over lap or say about 15 mm.

IMO the ideal solution is scraping the 5100s and using the 6112s with the optional B12 650lbs coils. this will yield around 2.5 to 3" of lift so youll gain the adjust ability you want to level the truck, the staggered settings compensate for the driver side lean.
Or use a complete OME or dobinson 3" lift kit and spacers
either way youll likely need UCAs.
 
was based on your saying you were going to move the c-clip to the .85" position from the "0" lowest position. The two aren't designed to work with one another. The 5100 is design to provide lift by compressing a OE rated spring and with the 884 the lift it provides is from its length and additional weight rating. When you take a coil like the 884, an compress it onto a 5100 you create a weak point at were the lower coil bracket, c-clip and c-clip groove over lap or say about 15 mm.

IMO the ideal solution is scraping the 5100s and using the 6112s with the optional B12 650lbs coils. this will yield around 2.5 to 3" of lift so youll gain the adjust ability you want to level the truck, the staggered settings compensate for the driver side lean.
Or use a complete OME or dobinson 3" lift kit and spacers
either way youll likely need UCAs.


whattttt? I currently have OME springs with bilstein 5100's and built right uca's in my closet. Is it not recommended to use OME springs with bilstein 5100's?
 
I currently have a 2.5/1.5 lift on my 06 4x4. The tires are BFG KO2 265/70/17's and there's plenty of room. I'm about ready for some new tires and was looking at Cooper at3 XLT 285/70/17. Is there any reason this wouldn't work? What would be the limiting factor? what is usually the first cause of rubbing? According to the dimensions list on Cooper's site, the overall tire diameter and width would only increase by an inch. It appears that I have that much room, is there something i'm missing?
 

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