So you're currently running 5100s/OME springs with stock UCAs? Which OME springs and what setting on the 5100s?
I've been researching this for a bit and there's so much conflicting information for some reason.
4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
So you're currently running 5100s/OME springs with stock UCAs? Which OME springs and what setting on the 5100s?
I've been researching this for a bit and there's so much conflicting information for some reason.
originalg00kster
New member
I have 5100's with OME springs and Built Right Upper control arms sitting in my closet waiting to be installed haha. I am planning on leaving it on the lowest setting and lifting with the springs.
Dusty Driftwood
New member
Hi again T4R friends,
I have a 2008 SR5 with stock suspension that currently has the DayStar 2.5/1.5 installed. I like the ride height of the truck, so I don't want to go much higher (if at all).
The ride is starting to feel sloshy... Body roll on turns, rear squat when I tow or carry gear, and nose dive during braking all have me thinking its time for an upgrade. The stock suspension has ~125,000
I'm not rock crawling, but I think a stiffer ride would address the aforementioned concerns. That said, practicality is king for me as I don't "need" this capability every day.
I'm thinking shocks and coils, but I am hoping for some guidance. What is the best option to solve the issues I mentioned while not breaking the bank (I want to keep all parts for this project under $1,000)
Thanks in advance for any help/guidance you all can provide.
I appreciate it!
I have a 2008 SR5 with stock suspension that currently has the DayStar 2.5/1.5 installed. I like the ride height of the truck, so I don't want to go much higher (if at all).
The ride is starting to feel sloshy... Body roll on turns, rear squat when I tow or carry gear, and nose dive during braking all have me thinking its time for an upgrade. The stock suspension has ~125,000
I'm not rock crawling, but I think a stiffer ride would address the aforementioned concerns. That said, practicality is king for me as I don't "need" this capability every day.
I'm thinking shocks and coils, but I am hoping for some guidance. What is the best option to solve the issues I mentioned while not breaking the bank (I want to keep all parts for this project under $1,000)
Thanks in advance for any help/guidance you all can provide.
I appreciate it!
884s or 885s?
Like many here, I've been digging through piles of suspension threads without a clear answer on my specific situation and didn't want to start another one.
• 2008 v6, will be adding a bumper to the front in the next year
• Goal is replacing the beat down XREAS and leveling it out (severely raked now)
• Looking at OME springs and 5100s up front
• 5100s/Superflexes in back
My question is, knowing a front bumper is on the horizon, am I better off going with 884s/5100s (set to 0.85) and swapping in new springs when the bumper goes on OR can I get away with 885s/5100s (set to 0)? Or will I have reverse rake for the foreseeable future?
And if it's the latter, is there another shock I should consider, as the adjustable nature of the 5100s will no longer be a factor?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts, trying to do this as efficiently as possible
Like many here, I've been digging through piles of suspension threads without a clear answer on my specific situation and didn't want to start another one.
• 2008 v6, will be adding a bumper to the front in the next year
• Goal is replacing the beat down XREAS and leveling it out (severely raked now)
• Looking at OME springs and 5100s up front
• 5100s/Superflexes in back
My question is, knowing a front bumper is on the horizon, am I better off going with 884s/5100s (set to 0.85) and swapping in new springs when the bumper goes on OR can I get away with 885s/5100s (set to 0)? Or will I have reverse rake for the foreseeable future?
And if it's the latter, is there another shock I should consider, as the adjustable nature of the 5100s will no longer be a factor?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts, trying to do this as efficiently as possible
Hey all!
I’ve got a 2007 SR5 V6 with stock coils and I just had it in the shop to install bilstein 5100’s all around. I had them pre adjusted to be at .85 and the shop said the nose was high. They ended up moving them back to the first notch (stock height) and the guy says the nose is still high!
Wondering how this is possible? I thought the .85 notch should level out the ride, but according to him even the stock notch has the nose high. Could my rear stock coils be the issue? Any thoughts?
I’ve got a 2007 SR5 V6 with stock coils and I just had it in the shop to install bilstein 5100’s all around. I had them pre adjusted to be at .85 and the shop said the nose was high. They ended up moving them back to the first notch (stock height) and the guy says the nose is still high!
Wondering how this is possible? I thought the .85 notch should level out the ride, but according to him even the stock notch has the nose high. Could my rear stock coils be the issue? Any thoughts?
jrm
New member
Under 1k
Parts..& labor? either way you cant go wrong with dobinson. Heres a link to their vendor page here: Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options
Parts..& labor? either way you cant go wrong with dobinson. Heres a link to their vendor page here: Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options
jrm
New member
5100 struts/shocks
are reggressively valved for use with stock rated coils and the OME struts/shocks are linearly valved coils rated for additional weight.
Using a spring other than bilstein b12 coils with the 5100 voids the warranty out of the box as well.
are reggressively valved for use with stock rated coils and the OME struts/shocks are linearly valved coils rated for additional weight.
Using a spring other than bilstein b12 coils with the 5100 voids the warranty out of the box as well.
Usually the shop will base things off of a true stock stance. Not what "looks" right. I would go look at it yourself if you haven't already. As long as it looks right to you.
meltdowner
Member
For the guys looking to replace XREAS or just replace what they're unhappy with...
For ~$400 get the bilstein 5100s. I got it, I'm happy. Nose dive is GONE. I can feel the bumps below me but it's still comfortable ride. No more body roll!
The ONLY bad thing about the bilstein 5100s is that they are stiff and you do "bounce" a little bit. The XREAS was a pretty smart system. Bilstein 5100s dont comminicate with eachother so you could be bouncing up in the front and up in the back and the ride can get weird, but you get used to it and adjust as a driver.
I had the XREAS, the bilstein 5100s are 100% better in every way and I have 0 regret. One day, in a few years, I will probably upgrade to a 2-3k shock system so I can barrel over speed bumps at a higher speed. That's literally the only benefit over the bilstein 5100s. JUST GET THE BILSTEINS.
For ~$400 get the bilstein 5100s. I got it, I'm happy. Nose dive is GONE. I can feel the bumps below me but it's still comfortable ride. No more body roll!
The ONLY bad thing about the bilstein 5100s is that they are stiff and you do "bounce" a little bit. The XREAS was a pretty smart system. Bilstein 5100s dont comminicate with eachother so you could be bouncing up in the front and up in the back and the ride can get weird, but you get used to it and adjust as a driver.
I had the XREAS, the bilstein 5100s are 100% better in every way and I have 0 regret. One day, in a few years, I will probably upgrade to a 2-3k shock system so I can barrel over speed bumps at a higher speed. That's literally the only benefit over the bilstein 5100s. JUST GET THE BILSTEINS.
sport2004
Member
Which springs to go with?
OME question
Hey folks, have a question for all of you running OME 3" suspension lift. I have decided to go with 90021/884 combo in the front and 60004/895 combo in the rear. Toytec suggests the following items to ensure the proper lift height and leveling: 95PF5 - Trim Packer (to correct potential lean), and Front Top Plate Spacer Kit which they claim is necessary to achieve a true 3" lift in the front.
I reached out to a local 4x4 company about this same kit and on their site they don't list the trim packer or top plate spacer as necessary or optional. This was the response I got from the shop: "There are enough spring options that one does not need to use the trim packers on spacers. We would use OME2884’s for the front and you should see slightly more than 3” of lift compared to stock (that is based on measurements in house)."
Would love to hear feedback from those of you running an OME 3" lift....should I go with the Toytec recommendation and use the spacers and packer? Or is the local shop correct and I can save myself a couple hundred bucks and go without?
Thanks!
Hey folks, have a question for all of you running OME 3" suspension lift. I have decided to go with 90021/884 combo in the front and 60004/895 combo in the rear. Toytec suggests the following items to ensure the proper lift height and leveling: 95PF5 - Trim Packer (to correct potential lean), and Front Top Plate Spacer Kit which they claim is necessary to achieve a true 3" lift in the front.
I reached out to a local 4x4 company about this same kit and on their site they don't list the trim packer or top plate spacer as necessary or optional. This was the response I got from the shop: "There are enough spring options that one does not need to use the trim packers on spacers. We would use OME2884’s for the front and you should see slightly more than 3” of lift compared to stock (that is based on measurements in house)."
Would love to hear feedback from those of you running an OME 3" lift....should I go with the Toytec recommendation and use the spacers and packer? Or is the local shop correct and I can save myself a couple hundred bucks and go without?
Thanks!
It turned out the spring perch was upside down. All good now!
I have an 07 4WD, no XREAS all stock. I'm new to 4x4s but I've had my truck for a year, and I want to do some upgrades.
I want to lift it 2/3 and I was considering spacers, but the truck has 160k miles on it and it needs new struts and shocks anyway.
Should I go with OME coils and shocks to kill two birds with one stone? I plan on adding tires as well, and I'd like to fit a larger A/T than stock.
Thanks!
I want to lift it 2/3 and I was considering spacers, but the truck has 160k miles on it and it needs new struts and shocks anyway.
Should I go with OME coils and shocks to kill two birds with one stone? I plan on adding tires as well, and I'd like to fit a larger A/T than stock.
Thanks!
sport2004
Member
i knew it
After wading through piles and piles of threads, decided to go with 5100s and FJ springs. I'm doing the swap (along with XREAS delete) on Friday, will post back with results.
That said, any issues with this approach? Hoping to net around 2.5 up front and 1.5 in back.
Front:
5100s set to "0" and Moog FJ 81108
Back:
5100s and Moog FJ 81045
Thanks!
How'd this work out for you?
Tpweiss9953
New member
Great info!
All wrapped up, here are the specs for anyone else considering 5100s w/ 81108s and 81045s (the data pool wasn't deep when I researched).
Before/After (been 3 days, so hopefully all the settling has occurred):
DF: 32.75" / 34.625"
PF: 33.25" / 35.25"
DR: 35" / 36.125"
PR: 35.5" / 36.125"
Initial Thoughts:
• XREAS shocks were fine after 11 years/116k, but the springs were DONEZO
• Ride is slightly firmer but in a good way
• Now that 5100s are in, I'll likely swap in OME/Toytec springs when I add front bumper and sliders
Issues Encountered:
This install is well-covered but here are a few unique issues that may help someone else:
• My top hats were rusted/fused to their perches - after jacking with it for an hour, a BFH and chisel took broke it free in 30 seconds
• Ratcheting wrenches are a MUST (12, 14, 17 & 19MM)
• Moog 81045 still have seating issues, mine aren't totally seated but I just went with it instead of cutting them down
I'm no mechanic and this took me considerably longer than most due to age/rust issues encountered but, if I can do it, anyone can. Shout with questions.
SHagood
New member
I'll throw in my opinion, which everyone is entitled to have! If your budget is 1k, you'll be more than fine to replace the suspension and tailor it to your liking. I would consider this, what are you towing? What weight do you need in the rear springs to hold that additional weight? When I added my Wilco, full size spare, jerry can, hi-lift, and gobi ladder to the rear I immediately noticed a sag in the rear. I replaced the springs with heavier rated load, and it's night/day different.
I got my rear Toytec shocks for $200 and my rear Dobinson springs for $200 (both new). You can get a set of lightly used coilovers in the front for around 4-500$. As a matter of fact, I saw a 4th gen guy post last week about a set of Toytec/Bilstein coilovers ($600 new) that had less than 1k miles on them for $450. If you aren't putting a bumper in the front, grab those! I would buy them, but I'm already running those coilovers anyways.
If you have the tools or a neighbor with any mechanical experience, the install for both front and rear is rather straight forward. This will save you labor costs so you don't get charged an arm/leg and can use that money towards the parts itself.
From my two years of owning my 4th gen, I've replaced my suspension twice and molded the capabilities to my liking and have done it for <1k, that I promise you.
Hope this helps!
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