4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[jv44heinzbar]

Hi all,
I'm new to these forums. I own a white 2004 V6 4WD Sport Edition. She's got 204K+ miles on her. She has been reliable for many, many years now. Unfortunately, I believe it's time to start doing some upgrading. This thread seems to be a good place to start.

HB

 

[jv44heinzbar]

Oops, I must have somehow hit submit before I was finished.

Anyhow, I'm pretty much sold on Bilstein 5100 shocks all the way around. I only do some weekend off-roading, and even then, it's not too serious. However, since I'm looking to upgrade my shocks I thought I'd come here to check out other options.

The Bilsteins seem most appropriate for my ride as I don't want to lose the road manners of the original system (Xreas). I've seen other post where folks remove the entire system. This I DO NOT want to do. I've seen that the 5100s do not come with springs and I've read where others keep the springs, while others replace them. A lot suggestions say to look on Craigslist for used FJ springs to replace the OEM springs. I'd rather just get new springs to be honest.

With that being said, can anyone recommend springs for the front and rear? I've read that some aftermarket springs don't fit exactly.

Any help is appreciated.

HB

 

[danwest]

I can tell you from my mistake (or rather lack of information with the kit) I set the 5100s on the last perch with the ome springs. The nose sat damn near a 5in lift and almost blew out both cv axles lol.

If you're after the carolina squat, then you can perch em up ! I ended up setting it not on the 0 perch position but the first and so far its been working out good.

First pic was the last perch, second is how it sits now on the first perch

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

What springs did you go with?

 

[Artakamoose]

First of all, many thanks to everyone who's posted advice and instructions here for swapping out the X-Reas system. I went with Bilsteins and my 4Runner rides better than ever. With that said...

I may have done a dumb thing. I think I may have missed a part when I reassembled the driver's side shock assembly.

The picture for the assembly only shows one shock absorber cushion that goes on top of the Shock Mount/Front Suspension Support Sub-Assembly (Part 48609). However, it also shows a Retainer Washer (Part 48510B) that gets installed under the Shock Mount. The original part diagram calls this a "Front Shock Absorber Cushion Retainer," which makes me think there should be a cushion between it and the Shock Mount. When I installed the new shock, I know I didn't install a cushion between these two parts. Also, I don't recall if the old shock had a cushion when I removed it and sadly I threw it away. On most applications, including the rear shocks, there's a bushing on both sides of the upper shock mount.

What's happening now is that I'm getting a metal on metal slapping/clinking noise whenever I go over washboard road that cycles the suspension quickly. I checked the skid plates, and those are tight. So, I have a feeling it's because I messed up and should have installed a cushion in-between these parts. However, the parts diagram doesn't show one. Does anyone know if there should be a cushion in between the lower washer and the mount; and if so, is the part the same as 48510J, or does the cushion come attached to the underside of the shock mount?

 

[Tironeous]

This one thread literally just answered every question I could have thought of and then some! I’m looking at buying a 2003 V8 Limited on Wednesday and was wondering about lift and tires, which will be my first two major mods. I’m finding more and more info on here than I could’ve ever thought of. One question; is it ok to add the beefier suspension ahead of adding armor? I don’t want to spend money on a lift then have to replace it 6 months or however soon after buying armor.

I’m pretty new to this, but I think you’d want to know how much you’re going to weigh down the truck with skid plates, sliders, bumpers, roof racks, drawer systems, etc... before selecting a suspension upgrade. You want to get springs rated for the appropriate rate. You could get stiffer springs first, but it will ride like shit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Heffernan]

First of all, many thanks to everyone who's posted advice and instructions here for swapping out the X-Reas system. I went with Bilsteins and my 4Runner rides better than ever. With that said...

I may have done a dumb thing. I think I may have missed a part when I reassembled the driver's side shock assembly.

The picture for the assembly only shows one shock absorber cushion that goes on top of the Shock Mount/Front Suspension Support Sub-Assembly (Part 48609). However, it also shows a Retainer Washer (Part 48510B) that gets installed under the Shock Mount. The original part diagram calls this a "Front Shock Absorber Cushion Retainer," which makes me think there should be a cushion between it and the Shock Mount. When I installed the new shock, I know I didn't install a cushion between these two parts. Also, I don't recall if the old shock had a cushion when I removed it and sadly I threw it away. On most applications, including the rear shocks, there's a bushing on both sides of the upper shock mount.

What's happening now is that I'm getting a metal on metal slapping/clinking noise whenever I go over washboard road that cycles the suspension quickly. I checked the skid plates, and those are tight. So, I have a feeling it's because I messed up and should have installed a cushion in-between these parts. However, the parts diagram doesn't show one. Does anyone know if there should be a cushion in between the lower washer and the mount; and if so, is the part the same as 48510J, or does the cushion come attached to the underside of the shock mount?

It should go (from bottom to top) washer/bushing/tophat/bushing/washer/nut.

I know when I rebuilt my front suspension, I order new tophats from the dealer, the tophats came with the bottom bushing already 'installed' on them. They are removable from the tophat however. When I order a new bushing kit from wheelers offroad it included both bushings and washers.

Check out this video from ToyTec:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyQEMxDG5L4

 

[LTP1996]

I have been thinking the past week about this idea and wanted to get an opinion on it. general opinion is to lift to fit any sort of larger tire to get no rubbing. when lifted, it is normal to trim as much as needed to get rid of rubbing.
most dont want to cut up their trucks, and that is just fine, but as someone who is willing to do that, and will eventually run much larger tires, whats to stop me from doing all the trimming at stock hight and run larger ties?

i am in need of tires soon. i was hoping to have my lift on but i need to do my LCA bolts as they are frozen. dealership quoted about $1500 since there is a good chance they will have to just replace the LCA's. so im looking for a short term idea to get through winter.

So heres the idea: BMC, pinch weld cut and flattened, fender liner pushed forward and trimmed. pretty much all trimming needed to stuff a 33-35in tire up front under full compression.
with all of this trimming, i know i probably could run a 285, but thats so tight, i dont think it would be a great idea without running bump stops. so what about a 255/80/17? or 275/70/17? a little more narrow might keep the rubbing down. im okay with a little rubbing here or there. never ran bigger tires on a rig without some sort of rubbing.

im confident if i did all of this and did a body lift i could run 285s. but i want to wait on the body lift until after suspension.

is this not even worth trying or does it sound reasonable?

 

[Artakamoose]

It should go (from bottom to top) washer/bushing/tophat/bushing/washer/nut.

I know when I rebuilt my front suspension, I order new tophats from the dealer, the tophats came with the bottom bushing already 'installed' on them. They are removable from the tophat however. When I order a new bushing kit from wheelers offroad it included both bushings and washers.

Check out this video from ToyTec:

Tech Tip Tuesday - Bilstein 5100 Shock Assembly - YouTube

Awesome! Thanks so much!

 

[hkombrink]

Hi all,
I'm new to these forums. I own a white 2004 V6 4WD Sport Edition. She's got 204K+ miles on her. She has been reliable for many, many years now. Unfortunately, I believe it's time to start doing some upgrading. This thread seems to be a good place to start.

HB

What are you looking to do with your truck? I got 235K on mine and am still adding things here and there. I'm hoping for 300K at least out of her.

 

[hkombrink]

I spent a lot of time deciding what lift springs to go with. I was torn between OME and the Eibachs. After doing research (limited info I could find on Eibach 112-620p's) and talking to the guys at toytec I decided to with the Eibach 112-620p front springs and paired them with my bilstein 5100's. Moved the billies form the 2.5 perch back to the bottom setting (0") threw on the 112-620p's with a 1/4" top plate spacer on the drivers side to correct any lean and the 4runner sits exactly where it did when I had the 5100's at 2.5" with factory springs. Rides much better and am extremely happy with how it turned out. If anyone is torn between OME and Eibachs I would strongly recommend the Eibachs! (I have a 2007 SR5 4wd v6 with no extra weight) I will post pictures later if anyone is interested in seeing how it turned out

 

[Bkt4runner]

If I used the OEM springs from my 2003 4Runner V8 on the 2007 FJ cruiser TRD red shocks would it fit and would I retain the factory height?

 

[Bluesky 07]

If I used the OEM springs from my 2003 4Runner V8 on the 2007 FJ cruiser TRD red shocks would it fit and would I retain the factory height?

The shocks only dampen the motion of the springs, so keeping coils that will be old enough to vote next year & have carried a 4500 lb. SUV for God knows how many miles just doesn’t make sense. Springs aren’t expensive. Replace them too.

 

[PNWLivin]

I spent a lot of time deciding what lift springs to go with. I was torn between OME and the Eibachs. After doing research (limited info I could find on Eibach 112-620p's) and talking to the guys at toytec I decided to with the Eibach 112-620p front springs and paired them with my bilstein 5100's. Moved the billies form the 2.5 perch back to the bottom setting (0") threw on the 112-620p's with a 1/4" top plate spacer on the drivers side to correct any lean and the 4runner sits exactly where it did when I had the 5100's at 2.5" with factory springs. Rides much better and am extremely happy with how it turned out. If anyone is torn between OME and Eibachs I would strongly recommend the Eibachs! (I have a 2007 SR5 4wd v6 with no extra weight) I will post pictures later if anyone is interested in seeing how it turned out

I'd like to see the pics. I'm thinking about getting the Eibach stage 1 kit.

 

[Heffernan]

If I used the OEM springs from my 2003 4Runner V8 on the 2007 FJ cruiser TRD red shocks would it fit and would I retain the factory height?

I agree with Bluesky, those 17 yr old springs should probably be replaced while you're swapping out suspension parts.

 

[hkombrink]

I'd like to see the pics. I'm thinking about getting the Eibach stage 1 kit.

I'll try to post some pics over my lunch break.

 

[Tironeous]

I’ve got a 2005 V8 non-XREAS sitting around 150k on the original suspension. Wheels are stock and I’m running a fairly new set of Cooper Adventurer A/T 265/65/R17 thanks to the previous owner. I don’t plan on upgrading the wheels and tires anytime soon as I have plenty of tread left. I do go camping 5-10 times a year, but don’t really do any type of off-roading. Maybe in the future, but stock ride height has been fine for now on the gravel and dirt roads.

I’d like to replace the old suspension with something that has good ride quality around town and on the highway since that’s where I do most of my driving. A mild lift would be cool, but I don’t want to sacrifice ride quality or get to a point where I’ve got to do other work with UCAs, CVs and who knows what else. I’ve never done much wrenching myself, but this forum and YouTube gives me the confidence to attempt replacing the struts and springs myself. Just don’t want to lift it unnecessarily high and then need to figure out how to do more work (or worse pay someone to fix my mistakes).

With that in mind, what should I be looking at?

 

[Heffernan]

I’ve got a 2005 V8 non-XREAS sitting around 150k on the original suspension. Wheels are stock and I’m running a fairly new set of Cooper Adventurer A/T 265/65/R17 thanks to the previous owner. I don’t plan on upgrading the wheels and tires anytime soon as I have plenty of tread left. I do go camping 5-10 times a year, but don’t really do any type of off-roading. Maybe in the future, but stock ride height has been fine for now on the gravel and dirt roads.

I’d like to replace the old suspension with something that has good ride quality around town and on the highway since that’s where I do most of my driving. A mild lift would be cool, but I don’t want to sacrifice ride quality or get to a point where I’ve got to do other work with UCAs, CVs and who knows what else. I’ve never done much wrenching myself, but this forum and YouTube gives me the confidence to attempt replacing the struts and shocks myself. Just don’t want to lift it unnecessarily high and then need to figure out how to do more work (or worse pay someone to fix my mistakes).

With that in mind, what should I be looking at?

You described almost exactly the same thing I wanted from my new suspension when I first started researching. I ended up going with 5100s in all 4 corners and replacing the front springs with a set of 4x4 FJs. I left the rear springs alone as I really just wanted to level the stance a bit. I got exactly an inch of lift in the front, no need for UCA or diff drops, etc. The ride is still very comfortable. I'd recommend going the FJ spring route.

 

[Tironeous]

You described almost exactly the same thing I wanted from my new suspension when I first started researching. I ended up going with 5100s in all 4 corners and replacing the front springs with a set of 4x4 FJs. I left the rear springs alone as I really just wanted to level the stance a bit. I got exactly an inch of lift in the front, no need for UCA or diff drops, etc. The ride is still very comfortable. I'd recommend going the FJ spring route.

Thanks for the recommendation. Did you have the 5100s set to 0? Also for the FJ springs what if I cannot find any in my area. I've heard the Moog springs don't exactly fit, but maybe that's just for the rear?

I'm definitely considering 5100s, but also looking at picking up a used Taco 3rd Gen TRD off-road suspension. They're pretty easy to come by for $150-$200 for front shocks, front coils, and rear shocks.

 

[Heffernan]

Thanks for the recommendation. Did you have the 5100s set to 0? Also for the FJ springs what if I cannot find any in my area. I've heard the Moog springs don't exactly fit, but maybe that's just for the rear?

I'm definitely considering 5100s, but also looking at picking up a used Taco 3rd Gen TRD off-road suspension. They're pretty easy to come by for $150-$200 for front shocks, front coils, and rear shocks.

Yes, front 5100s set to the stock, or 0, setting. I heard mixed reviews with the Moog springs so I ended up ordering new springs from the dealer. I was ok with paying more to ensure proper fitment.

I'm not too familiar with the Taco takeoffs. If you can find them for that price, that would be hard to pass up.

 

[Tironeous]

Found a set of FJ takeoffs in an FJ Forum. From I’ve read this should be a direct replacement with no modification for a 4th Gen 4Runner. Do I have the correct?

What type lift would I expect for my V8 if I were to go with this?