Thank you. Can you suggest a place to look at purchasing the airbags and suspension?
4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
Thank you. Can you suggest a place to look at purchasing the airbags and suspension?
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
FJ stuff: used off of fjcruiserforums.com, ebay, craigslist, etc
Bilstein 5100s: ajusa.com has the best prices
Airbags: not sure if the above site has them, if not autoanything.com (I'd suggest contacting them to make sure it's in stock before ordering)
Bilstein 5100s: ajusa.com has the best prices
Airbags: not sure if the above site has them, if not autoanything.com (I'd suggest contacting them to make sure it's in stock before ordering)
This is the only suspension I could find on ajusa and they only showed parts for a Tundra...
BILSTEIN - B12 BILSTEIN TUNED SUSPENSION (BTS) $667.15
Also is there a sure way to determine if my suspension is bad? It squeaks but other then that I don't know. I have 128K miles on the rig.
Edit: Nevermind I found the 5100's. They are $97...stupid question..is that per shock or for a pair?
BILSTEIN - B12 BILSTEIN TUNED SUSPENSION (BTS) $667.15
Also is there a sure way to determine if my suspension is bad? It squeaks but other then that I don't know. I have 128K miles on the rig.
Edit: Nevermind I found the 5100's. They are $97...stupid question..is that per shock or for a pair?
Last edited:
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
One sign is if you see fluid leaking from the shocks. Outside of that, if the vehicle continues to bounce up and down after hitting bumps and such.
Front 5100's are $97.25 each, rear 5100's are $71.24 each. They typically offer some type of coupon, it'll be listed on the home page. Right now, it's $10 off every $100 you spend. That brings it right over $300. If you find a cheaper price, they should match it or beat it (never tried this).
Front 5100's are $97.25 each, rear 5100's are $71.24 each. They typically offer some type of coupon, it'll be listed on the home page. Right now, it's $10 off every $100 you spend. That brings it right over $300. If you find a cheaper price, they should match it or beat it (never tried this).
crashman
New member
hi ARK
I have been looking for a few days now and I am just getting confused more
I have a 3-2 coil over lift
basically I made this
Toytec/Bilstein height adjustable coilovers - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
using the eibach front coils, bilstein 5100 set on the 2nd notch (.87 I think) and toytec 1/2" spacer so I got a good 3" lift according to the guys at toytec and the super flex 2" on the rear with 5100's
I want to run a 33" tire preferably the k2's but I don't want to hack up the truck
you mentioned the 255/80/17 how much will I have to trim? and is that the only 33" that will fit
in my searches I found most are running a body lift for the fit
I am planing on wheeling quite a bit this summer
thanks for the help
I have been looking for a few days now and I am just getting confused more
I have a 3-2 coil over lift
basically I made this
Toytec/Bilstein height adjustable coilovers - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
using the eibach front coils, bilstein 5100 set on the 2nd notch (.87 I think) and toytec 1/2" spacer so I got a good 3" lift according to the guys at toytec and the super flex 2" on the rear with 5100's
I want to run a 33" tire preferably the k2's but I don't want to hack up the truck
you mentioned the 255/80/17 how much will I have to trim? and is that the only 33" that will fit
in my searches I found most are running a body lift for the fit
I am planing on wheeling quite a bit this summer
thanks for the help
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
It depends on how wide you want to go. The size you mentioned will work, or most run 285/70/17, which us just a little under a 33. The original post lists what it takes to fit this tire with a 3/2 lift. The 255 you mentioned would be similar.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Even 32s rub with the wheel spacers on. This rubbing isn't majorand can be easily fixed. you can fit 33s with a little effort. The issue with 285s is that they may rub the body mount, the 255 won't (both approx 33) . If you wasn't no rubbing, that's gonna leave you with stock tires. If you'll do just a little work as outlined uh the original post, you can fit either the 255 or 285 we've talked about.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
That sounds like a good start if the price is right. As long as their not aggressive tires, they should fit with no or very minimal rubbing. I had my lift on when I put mine on (1.5" front). I don't recall having to move the liner forward until I added the spacers.
hkollie1
New member
Pulling Daystar, Installing FJ & B 5100's...bolts?
After Xmas I was planning on diving in and tearing off my XREAS and replacing with the standard FJ springs and Bilstein 5100's all the way around.
I asked previously about the spacers and seemed to hear that I should remove my existing spacer lift 2.5/1.5 ( I think).
Does this mean that there are bolts that need to be replaced with shorter ones in the front??
I did this lift with a member from this board back in 2004, and I vaguely recall the kit coming with new bolts, perhaps my memory is flawed.
I just don't want to get things torn off and be short on parts!
Thx
Kevin
PS - I missed or ordered my shocks from the wrong place, may call then see if they will refund me to match the AJ price!:toilet::toilet:
After Xmas I was planning on diving in and tearing off my XREAS and replacing with the standard FJ springs and Bilstein 5100's all the way around.
I asked previously about the spacers and seemed to hear that I should remove my existing spacer lift 2.5/1.5 ( I think).
Does this mean that there are bolts that need to be replaced with shorter ones in the front??
I did this lift with a member from this board back in 2004, and I vaguely recall the kit coming with new bolts, perhaps my memory is flawed.
I just don't want to get things torn off and be short on parts!
Thx
Kevin
PS - I missed or ordered my shocks from the wrong place, may call then see if they will refund me to match the AJ price!:toilet::toilet:
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
You're correct, there were longer bolts included with that kit. You can see if anyone has them laying around after a lift if you're too concerned. However, you'll have no problems using what you have, they'll work fine. Only issue it's that if you sell the daystar kit, the longer bolts will be needed to install.
hkollie1
New member
ARK - thanks for the quick reply!! I have been using your advice on the actuator leak as well. Much appreciated.
Follow up questions...
1 - So what do you recommend I tear apart to do the FJ Springs...I both the pre-load and the top load spacers?? I'm not sure I can find my original parts. Perhaps i keep the preload and dump the top load(top out)?
2 - Can I keep the DayStar Lift spacers on the front and or rear and still install the B 5100's without messing up Break Lines or CV angles?
got the FJ Springs for $70 plus $40 of shipping...BTW
Follow up questions...
1 - So what do you recommend I tear apart to do the FJ Springs...I both the pre-load and the top load spacers?? I'm not sure I can find my original parts. Perhaps i keep the preload and dump the top load(top out)?
2 - Can I keep the DayStar Lift spacers on the front and or rear and still install the B 5100's without messing up Break Lines or CV angles?
got the FJ Springs for $70 plus $40 of shipping...BTW
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Most people choose not to run lift spacers with the 5100s because you can use the front 5100s to lift. However, the 5100s are fully compatible with lift spacers. You can use the current spacers and add the fj coils, you'll just need to make sure the front 5100s are on the lowest setting (stock height).
martini
New member
I know this took a lot of time to put together http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspension/78933-4th-gen-all-whove-done-fj-swap.html, thank you for doing it! It would be great if there were a similar spreadsheet for the 5100/(884/885/886) combination that seems to extremely popular now. Some items for a spreadsheet of this kind would be what setting are your 5100s at, do you have a top plate spacer or not (if so which), V6 or V8, etc, any extra weight (bumper, winch, both, extra battery), lastly final lift amount.
I'm not volunteering ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, that last spreadsheet probably took long enough to put together I'm sure, but if anyone had some time it would greatly help the forum.
I'm not volunteering ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, that last spreadsheet probably took long enough to put together I'm sure, but if anyone had some time it would greatly help the forum.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
That can be done if there's enough interest. I wouldn't mind doing it, just want to make sure it would be worth the time. I got a lot of stuff figured out after doing the FJ spreadsheet, shouldn't be too hard to do another for OME (and others).
hkollie1
New member
FJ Springs+5100 +Daystar 2.5/1.5
Well for better or worse my suspension swap is complete! I love the FJ springs and 5100's. The Dead XREAS is pulled off and in the trash. :gun5:
No more bumps rattling through the frame.
I left my Day Star 2.5/1.5 on my truck, and that maybe a first. Haven't seen anyone that did that. I am alittle concerned that my CV's are over stressed, but time will tell. I will attach what pictures I have. Also I left the 5100's at the factory setting, zero lift from Shocks. I gained about 1.5 inches with this set up, and I really didn't want that much, suppose I could have figured it out in advance with more research.
Other notes:
* The Spring Compressors from Autozone worked just fine for me.
* I did not take off any pan hard bar or sway bar on the rear.
* Developed a small hole on the drivers LCA Ball Joint, very little info on the net on replacing this unit or the dust boot
* I used the eccentric drop method and it really helped
* Did take off the swaybar...helped me
Thanks for all the previous and prolific posters!
Well for better or worse my suspension swap is complete! I love the FJ springs and 5100's. The Dead XREAS is pulled off and in the trash. :gun5:
No more bumps rattling through the frame.
I left my Day Star 2.5/1.5 on my truck, and that maybe a first. Haven't seen anyone that did that. I am alittle concerned that my CV's are over stressed, but time will tell. I will attach what pictures I have. Also I left the 5100's at the factory setting, zero lift from Shocks. I gained about 1.5 inches with this set up, and I really didn't want that much, suppose I could have figured it out in advance with more research.
Other notes:
* The Spring Compressors from Autozone worked just fine for me.
* I did not take off any pan hard bar or sway bar on the rear.
* Developed a small hole on the drivers LCA Ball Joint, very little info on the net on replacing this unit or the dust boot
* I used the eccentric drop method and it really helped
* Did take off the swaybar...helped me
Thanks for all the previous and prolific posters!
Attachments
RanchoRunner
New member
Hey everyone,
Just finished installing a Toytec Ultimate 3" Lift kit with Bilstein 5100's front & rear, and Toytec lift springs. I'm running 285/70R17 BFG KM2's on FJC wheels. After relocating forward the inner fender liners, the only point of interference is now the inner tire lugs against the front sway bar when I've got it cranked to full lock. Anybody remove the front sway bar? Does it really affect the handling without it? It's either I do that or go with a 1/2" or 1" wheel adapter....
Suggestions?
Thanks
Just finished installing a Toytec Ultimate 3" Lift kit with Bilstein 5100's front & rear, and Toytec lift springs. I'm running 285/70R17 BFG KM2's on FJC wheels. After relocating forward the inner fender liners, the only point of interference is now the inner tire lugs against the front sway bar when I've got it cranked to full lock. Anybody remove the front sway bar? Does it really affect the handling without it? It's either I do that or go with a 1/2" or 1" wheel adapter....
Suggestions?
Thanks
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I know it's typically used when there's contact between the swaybar and shock/coil, but do you think the swaybar relocate would help? I've not dealt with that contact so I can't say for sure. The sb relocate would move the swaybar forward, you can look and see if that would help.
Second option, as you mentioned, is wheel spacers/adapters. I would not run the ring type spacers that just slip over the existing studs. Use a hub centric spacer/adapter such as the Spidertrax or All Pro (AP does make both hub and lug centric versions, you want the hub centric ones). Due to design, 1.25" is the narrowest option available on these spacers. If you're going to run spacers, it's definitely worth the cost to go with one of these two, much safer and more reliable.
Second option, as you mentioned, is wheel spacers/adapters. I would not run the ring type spacers that just slip over the existing studs. Use a hub centric spacer/adapter such as the Spidertrax or All Pro (AP does make both hub and lug centric versions, you want the hub centric ones). Due to design, 1.25" is the narrowest option available on these spacers. If you're going to run spacers, it's definitely worth the cost to go with one of these two, much safer and more reliable.
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