4th gen v8 start motor location

[greasefingers]

I know this might to a little premature to state right now, but I was cleaning my 4.7L and noticed that it looks like the starter motor is placed underneath the intake manifold. Ouch! That will be a bear to replace some day. I know it is early to talk about, but I drive my vehicles into the ground. In other words I do not trade-in but usually keep them well after 120k miles. Am I crazy or is that thing I see at the 12 o-Clock position on the flywheel, not the starter? Does this bother anyone else?

 

[toyo]

The starter is located under the intake maifold. Yes, it is difficult to replace. However I have never heard of one failing. Toyota must have specified a very long lasting starter to Denso when they disigned it.

 

[Cliff s]

This is actually a very good idea as the starter is not exposed
to the water and dirt if it was located under the motor.

Cliff s

 

[toyo]

The only negative I see is it is subject to alot of heat.

 

[greasefingers]

Since I usually do most of the repairs myself, I think this sucks. I would rather replace the starter twice as often then to have to rip the intake manifold out and replace the gasket & re-torque the bolts.

 

[gogriz91]

hey greasefingers, how do you like your Jeep? Give us a comparo taking in to consideration the age difference of the vehicles.

 

[greasefingers]

hey greasefingers, how do you like your Jeep? Give us a comparo taking in to consideration the age difference of the vehicles.

The Jeep engines are fine. The accessories are not. Power windows, locks, and door speakers are always failing due to the wires breaking as they pass thru the door. The front rotors warp every two years. The viscous coupler goes at around 120k miles and the transmission on the AWD models need rebuilding around 140k miles. Also the fuel pumps tend to fail after 100K. As far as maintenance; there are no drain plugs on the transmission or differentials, so one has to pull all of the pan bolts off to change these fluids. How’s that for starters?

 

[gogriz91]

The Jeep engines are fine. The accessories are not. Power windows, locks, and door speakers are always failing due to the wires breaking as they pass thru the door. The front rotors warp every two years. The viscous coupler goes at around 120k miles and the transmission on the AWD models need rebuilding around 140k miles. Also the fuel pumps tend to fail after 100K. As far as maintenance; there are no drain plugs on the transmission or differentials, so one has to pull all of the pan bolts off to change these fluids. How’s that for starters?

Sorry that took so long but I had a '93 Cherokee and the engine was great but the build quality was horrible. It was a shame because the thing was a mountain goat but it just wasn't put together very well.

I appreciate your read on this.

 

[SteveM]

The only negative I see is it is subject to alot of heat.

But less heat than if it were under an exhaust manifold!

 

[Jim_Chow]

The starter is located under the intake maifold. Yes, it is difficult to replace. However I have never heard of one failing. Toyota must have specified a very long lasting starter to Denso when they disigned it.

The contacts fail around 80-100K miles. Check the LC100 forum at ih8mud.com. Lots of guys have had their starter contacts fail at about that mileage, and it is a bear to access the starter. That's one downside to the V8.

 

[Satman]

starter

I found this out about a year ago and am not very happy about it. I don't let anyone work on my cars at all. So i'm sure it's gonna be real fun when i have starter trouble. What a bitc$ it will be to replace brushes.

 

[greasefingers]

Satman: Yea I try to do all of my own work. I don

 

[sierrahotel]

Thought I'd bump an old thread with some new info. I went to replace my 2005 starter. Turns out, the air injection system added to the 2005 and up makes this job much, much more difficult. There are now two air pumps mounted to the back of the coolant crossover line that seem to be impossible to remove, and right in the way. They are so in the way that you can't even get a socket squarely onto the 12mm bolt. I have been completely unable to place a socket at all on either of the 14mm bolts. There is just no room at all for hands or ratchets now between the engine and firewall. Here's a pic that clearly shows them between the coolant crossover line and the wiring harness. Also note the amount of crap now placed in the V.

I have not yet figured out how to do this- I was on my way to just lower the engine a couple inches but that looks to be much more difficult than I thought due to motor mount bolt access. The coolant crossover line can't be removed because it is mounted to the air pumps, which are attached to the outsides of each head via rigid metal air lines with inaccessible bolts. The wiring harness is impossible to remove with the number of connector disconnects required. With help, I ran 3' of extensions up from below but with the number of bends required I needed two U-joints, which just buckled when torque was applied.

I am tempted to throw in the towel, reassemble the intake, and take it to a shop. The joke will be on them, as the FSM instructions just say to remove the coolant crossover line like its no big deal. And before someone yells at me, I have since covered the intake ports. I took this picture the second I got the intake off.

 

[slyfox75]

http://www.someguyinnevada.com/toyota-tundra-starter-repair-a-journey-of-discovery

see if that link helps.....saved this years ago cause it appears to be well written. I know he doesn't have AIP system but most everything else should help??

 

[duffdog]

Thought I'd bump an old thread with some new info. I went to replace my 2005 starter. Turns out, the air injection system added to the 2005 and up makes this job much, much more difficult. There are now two air pumps mounted to the back of the coolant crossover line that seem to be impossible to remove, and right in the way. They are so in the way that you can't even get a socket squarely onto the 12mm bolt. I have been completely unable to place a socket at all on either of the 14mm bolts. There is just no room at all for hands or ratchets now between the engine and firewall. Here's a pic that clearly shows them between the coolant crossover line and the wiring harness. Also note the amount of crap now placed in the V.

I have not yet figured out how to do this- I was on my way to just lower the engine a couple inches but that looks to be much more difficult than I thought due to motor mount bolt access. The coolant crossover line can't be removed because it is mounted to the air pumps, which are attached to the outsides of each head via rigid metal air lines with inaccessible bolts. The wiring harness is impossible to remove with the number of connector disconnects required. With help, I ran 3' of extensions up from below but with the number of bends required I needed two U-joints, which just buckled when torque was applied.

I am tempted to throw in the towel, reassemble the intake, and take it to a shop. The joke will be on them, as the FSM instructions just say to remove the coolant crossover line like its no big deal. And before someone yells at me, I have since covered the intake ports. I took this picture the second I got the intake off.

An old mechanic trick I learned was to tape the U-joints with electrical tape to make them much stiffer, then have someone put a big wrench around the u joint and the tape to hold it while you work it off with the ratchet. It looks like a nightmare to remove those air pump things.

 

[Binjinh]

I drive my vehicles into the ground. In other words I do not trade-in but usually keep them well after 120k miles.

Mfw 120k is considered high mileage on a 4.7

 

[Zbryant]

Sorry for reviving a old thread, but I don't have enough posts to start one and this post seems relevant to my issue.

Wife has a 2016 4runner and won't let me do much of anything and obviously haven't had any problems with it yet.

But My friend has a 2003 (4.7) and asked for help, told me it has no crank but he hears a click, not sure yet if it is the started clicking or just the relay. He put a new battery in.

Question is, because the started is hiding under the intake, is it possible to access the signal wire through the intake? He lives about an hour away and I am planning to go help him out this weekend, just trying to get as much diagnosing in before making the trip so I can get as much done while i'm out there as possible without wasting time throwing parts at it.

seen a lot of info about the contacts that go bad and how big a job it is to get to everything. It has around 350k miles on it so anything could be the problem...

 

[greasefingers]

No that's not want I meant. I just picked a mileage. I currently have 257,000 on her. BTW if you have the plastic cladding trim, how is it holding up? Mine looks like sh_t but at this mileage, I do not care.

 

[danthemanx07]

Thought I'd bump an old thread with some new info. I went to replace my 2005 starter. Turns out, the air injection system added to the 2005 and up makes this job much, much more difficult. There are now two air pumps mounted to the back of the coolant crossover line that seem to be impossible to remove, and right in the way. They are so in the way that you can't even get a socket squarely onto the 12mm bolt. I have been completely unable to place a socket at all on either of the 14mm bolts. There is just no room at all for hands or ratchets now between the engine and firewall. Here's a pic that clearly shows them between the coolant crossover line and the wiring harness. Also note the amount of crap now placed in the V.

I have not yet figured out how to do this- I was on my way to just lower the engine a couple inches but that looks to be much more difficult than I thought due to motor mount bolt access. The coolant crossover line can't be removed because it is mounted to the air pumps, which are attached to the outsides of each head via rigid metal air lines with inaccessible bolts. The wiring harness is impossible to remove with the number of connector disconnects required. With help, I ran 3' of extensions up from below but with the number of bends required I needed two U-joints, which just buckled when torque was applied.

I am tempted to throw in the towel, reassemble the intake, and take it to a shop. The joke will be on them, as the FSM instructions just say to remove the coolant crossover line like its no big deal. And before someone yells at me, I have since covered the intake ports. I took this picture the second I got the intake off.

Necro posting for sure, but there are ZERO starter replacement threads that I can find for 2005+ models.

Did you ever get this figured out?

 

[bookooc]

Necro posting for sure, but there are ZERO starter replacement threads that I can find for 2005+ models.

Did you ever get this figured out?

I hate it when a thread dies with no resolution. I have been searching all day, finally found this one, as it appears my 2005 has a bad solenoid. Came out today and it just clicks once. Battery seems to be ok. I don't know if I want to attempt this nightmare. I need to have the timing belt replaced, so maybe I will just bite the bullet and have both done at the same time. There goes $2200 Of course now I will have to have it towed.