4WD Transfer Indicator Switch

[flyinbrick]

My 97 T4R 5-speed wouldn't engage the front axle when in 4H or 4L. Based on some past threads, I traced it to the 4WD transfer indicator switch since it works when I short the plug on the ECU side. This is the sensor on the passenger side transfer case that opens or shorts based on the transfer case stick position. Problem is, I can't figure out how to replace it - there is no room! Has anyone replaced it before? If so, how did you do it? Do I use an O2 sensor socket from the bottom?

Also, does anyone know the p/n of the switch? There are 2 switches on the transfer case. The diagram at ToyoMotorParts shows both on the passenger side while the FSM (correctly) shows one on each side.

 

[flyinbrick]

Just wanted to follow up and provide insight to someone who might have this same problem in the future. The correct part number for the Transfer 4WD Position Switch is 84222-35110.

I could not figure out how to get the switch out without lowering the transmission and I didn't want to tackle this, so off to the mechanic it went and that's what he had to do. As for the part number, he and the parts house was as confused as I was given that Toyota's parts diagram showed the switch to be on the passenger (wrong) side and the parts descriptions did not match. He ended up ordering both 84222 and 84222B (Transfer L4 position switch) just to be sure. What's funny is that they look absolutely identical, down to the connector, case, thread length and pitch, etc., the only difference being a slight difference in how the wires look coming out of the sensor case. I believe it was 27mm but think you would need an open-ended or crowfoot wrench.

 

[hrt4me]

thank you for the informative follow-up with "the rest of the story"

 

[dcboucher]

Many thanks...

This solved it for my '00 T4R, just in time to hit mountains. Like the OP said, it's confusing enough that the toyota parts guy and transmission tech didn't figure it out. You did!

I found it quite inexpensively here...

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~switch~transfer~indicator~no~1~84222-35110.html

Happy New Year!

 

[4thgen619]

How did you short the ecu side of that sensor to make sure that’s what it was ?

 

[toyotaspeed90]

These switches are extremely simple - when pushed in the wires make a "connection". To test it simply jumper the 2 wires at the connector.

In my old FZJ80 I had to swap the same sensor in the transfercase to get the lockers to work.

The 80 series switches were expensive or not able to find (dont remember, this was years ago).

I realized it looked identical to a FWD/MR2 transmission reverse switch so that's what I ordered and it worked on the 80 series. Was $15 for an aisin.

 

[Bad Luck]

How did you short the ecu side of that sensor to make sure that’s what it was ?

Disconnect the sensor and insert a jumper wire between the two terminals on the harness side plug. It's easier to check the switch for continuity. You should have no continuity with the switch out and continuity when you press the switch in.

 

[4thgen619]

Oh ok I’ll do that I had a couple sensors when I took them out to test for continuity they gave me a erratic reading no beep but numbers from 800-600-400 just jumping around like crazy I don’t know if that means the sensor is bad or good I purchased some new sensors and also this blue one but I don’t really want to drop the transfer case again I’ll try to jumper the wires

 

[Rogue23]

Hi all, brand-new both here and to owning a 4runner. Bought a 2005 SR5 Sport last week. Yesterday I went in to upgrade the radio to a bluetooth model. Managed to get everything set and working however in the process I managed to create a problem related to this thread.

When I reassembled the dash and started her up, while testing everything I discovered the 4wd switch no longer works. I verified the plug is in place, faced correctly, and fully seated. I also verified there are no pinched or broken wires from the work I did in the dash. I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting in case the computer just needed to cycle since it was unplugged, but none of these things worked.
The 4wd worked great prior to opening the dash so Im pretty sure it's something minor related to the work I did and a bad connection or blown fuse but wanted to poll the crowd and see if there is something Im not thinking of.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[phattyduck]

Hi all, brand-new both here and to owning a 4runner. Bought a 2005 SR5 Sport last week. Yesterday I went in to upgrade the radio to a bluetooth model. Managed to get everything set and working however in the process I managed to create a problem related to this thread.

When I reassembled the dash and started her up, while testing everything I discovered the 4wd switch no longer works. I verified the plug is in place, faced correctly, and fully seated. I also verified there are no pinched or broken wires from the work I did in the dash. I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting in case the computer just needed to cycle since it was unplugged, but none of these things worked.
The 4wd worked great prior to opening the dash so Im pretty sure it's something minor related to the work I did and a bad connection or blown fuse but wanted to poll the crowd and see if there is something Im not thinking of.

Any help would be appreciated!

The 4th gen has a different shifting mechanism than the 3rd gen. Try in the 4th gen section for answers.

-Charlie

 

[Rogue23]

Sorry, thought I was in 4th gen.... still finding my way around. thanks!

 

[NegroTundra]

Does anybody know if it would be possible to replace this switch by removing the console/shiter assembly, and doing the work from the top?

 

[phattyduck]

Does anybody know if it would be possible to replace this switch by removing the console/shiter assembly, and doing the work from the top?

Unless you have a body lift, probably not...

-Charlie

 

[Bad Luck]

Does anybody know if it would be possible to replace this switch by removing the console/shiter assembly, and doing the work from the top?

The best way I've found to get the switch is to remove the transmission mount crossmember and sag the transmission/transfer case down until I could get an open end wrench. Not possible to get to from the top unless you want to cut the body.

 

[NegroTundra]

FYI, if you have a manual transmission, it's completely doable to replace all TC switches from above with shifter assembly/cover removed. Yes its very tight, but doable. Got my passenger side switch out, found out it was dead, cleaned it with a liberal dosing of MAF cleaner, and back in business!

 

[AZmech]

If anyone knows..

TL/DR version: is there an armature or such inside the upper t-case which engages the switches?

Longer version:

I hate to hijack/bump, but can't post a new topic at this time.

Not a 4R owner, but work on many. This forum has been a great resource, thanks to all for your contribution in providing it, and thanks to OP for pointing toward the right part #s.

I'm currently working on a 2000 SR5 (J shift, auto) and having a somewhat similar problem.

The transfer case does shift to all positions fine, and is engaging the forward driveshaft, but no dash light and front diff doesn't seem locked when driving.

Checking the 3 switches (4HI, 4LO, N) shows no continuity on any in any shifter position. I assume the switches are bad, but do feel it's odd that all 3 are out.. (Just to note it, jumping the 4HI switch plug activates the 4wd. Rest of system working.)

My question is: is there an armature or such inside the upper t-case which engages the switches? A different way: is it possible that something is missing/bent/broken and causing the switches not to get pushed?

If anyone has an answer, great, would save some time/$. Thanks for your time, in any case.

 

[spartacus]

TL/DR version: is there an armature or such inside the upper t-case which engages the switches?

Longer version:

I hate to hijack/bump, but can't post a new topic at this time.

Not a 4R owner, but work on many. This forum has been a great resource, thanks to all for your contribution in providing it, and thanks to OP for pointing toward the right part #s.

I'm currently working on a 2000 SR5 (J shift, auto) and having a somewhat similar problem.

The transfer case does shift to all positions fine, and is engaging the forward driveshaft, but no dash light and front diff doesn't seem locked when driving.

Checking the 3 switches (4HI, 4LO, N) shows no continuity on any in any shifter position. I assume the switches are bad, but do feel it's odd that all 3 are out.. (Just to note it, jumping the 4HI switch plug activates the 4wd. Rest of system working.)

My question is: is there an armature or such inside the upper t-case which engages the switches? A different way: is it possible that something is missing/bent/broken and causing the switches not to get pushed?

If anyone has an answer, great, would save some time/$. Thanks for your time, in any case.

Here is a good thread. might help.
4WD won't disengage on 99 4Runner LTD - YotaTech Forums

 

[AZmech]

Thanks

Spartacus,

Thanks for the reply, and definitely good info in that thread. Useful diagrams as well.

The j shift type is much simpler than what most of the posters there seem to be dealing with. From what I understand (for 2000), it's just mechanical shift on the t-case, which then activates one of 3 (t-case) switches to tell ecm/tcm to go to 4wd, and those switches tell ecm/tcm to activate VSV, which then sends vacuum to the front diff actuator, and, when actuator actuates, front diff switch sends confirmation and lights the dash light.

Since I can jump the t-case switch and lock it in, I assume ecm/tcm, vsv, f diff actuator and switch are all fine.

The boggle is just what internal to the t-case pushes the switches in. Since they're about 3 inches rear of the shift lever, I assume there is a slide or armature that gets pushed by the shift lever to switch the switches.

No diagrams show such, but that definitely doesn't mean that it isn't there.. More likely, just not what they intended to show on the diagram.

Damned if you do, damned if you don't.. If I go pull a switch to feel if there is a slide there, probably $80 charge to go and check. If I order the switches beforehand, can swap at about same price labor-wise, but there's a possibility I'm left with $220 worth of switches the customer doesn't need..

If it was mine, I'd probably throw a 15$ pushbutton toggle in there and be done with it.. 2wd low would probably be a fun option for lugging up hills..

 

[Bad Luck]

Spartacus,

Thanks for the reply, and definitely good info in that thread. Useful diagrams as well.

The j shift type is much simpler than what most of the posters there seem to be dealing with. From what I understand (for 2000), it's just mechanical shift on the t-case, which then activates one of 3 (t-case) switches to tell ecm/tcm to go to 4wd, and those switches tell ecm/tcm to activate VSV, which then sends vacuum to the front diff actuator, and, when actuator actuates, front diff switch sends confirmation and lights the dash light.

Since I can jump the t-case switch and lock it in, I assume ecm/tcm, vsv, f diff actuator and switch are all fine.

The boggle is just what internal to the t-case pushes the switches in. Since they're about 3 inches rear of the shift lever, I assume there is a slide or armature that gets pushed by the shift lever to switch the switches.

No diagrams show such, but that definitely doesn't mean that it isn't there.. More likely, just not what they intended to show on the diagram.

Damned if you do, damned if you don't.. If I go pull a switch to feel if there is a slide there, probably $80 charge to go and check. If I order the switches beforehand, can swap at about same price labor-wise, but there's a possibility I'm left with $220 worth of switches the customer doesn't need..

If it was mine, I'd probably throw a 15$ pushbutton toggle in there and be done with it.. 2wd low would probably be a fun option for lugging up hills..

I would recommend removing the switches and bench testing for continuity. I had to clean all my switches with contact cleaner to get good and consistent continuity. If the switches test good for continuity when compressed and the system still doesn't function correctly after reinstalling the switches then that would confirm an internal problem with the transfer case.

 

[gfleharty]

Unless you have a body lift, probably not...

-Charlie

I just changed my transfer case switches on 96 limited from above, it was tight, but got it done. Be careful not to lose the clip underneath that connects the shifter linkage. It was certainly easier than fighting rusty cross member bolts for me. If you have big hands it might be tougher. I did get underneath to start the new ones in. But tightened them up with 27MM wrench from above. I used 3 of the masterpro (Taiwan) 2-8950 backup light switches from Oreilly'$27.99 ea. I tested them before putting them in, the resistance varied among them. They were exactly the same as the Dorman 600-554 at $47 ea. Took it for a test drive and still having some intermittent shifts. But got rid of the vibration that I had. I thought I was looking at major repair to the front dif. I'll have to do some more checking tomorrow. Still comes out of 4WD rather hard.

My first post here, thanks to all of you who have posted on this topic, it made my repairs so much easier.