Rightside Up
New member
I've got Dobinsons 2.5" front/ 1.5" in back.
5th Gen 4Runner Lift Buyers Guide
- Thread starter thebwlife
- Start date
I've got Dobinsons 2.5" front/ 1.5" in back.
Did you do just the springs or did you do the shocks as well? Also what are the spring numbers you got? I found them but there are many spring numbers available front and rear and lift height is different depending on weights.
Last edited:
toyology
Junior Member
Yep but no diff drop yet
heyitsmeraj
New member
Need suggestions on my next lift:
I installed Bilstein 5100 height adjusted and increased 2.5" up front and being driving around for 5000 miles. The ride has become stiff day by day and ended up airing out my BF goodrich to get that comfy ride(New dad).
I am trying to improve the ride both off and on road. What would be my best bet? I thought of adding spacer and bring back the Bilstein back from 2.5" to stock .
I installed Bilstein 5100 height adjusted and increased 2.5" up front and being driving around for 5000 miles. The ride has become stiff day by day and ended up airing out my BF goodrich to get that comfy ride(New dad).
I am trying to improve the ride both off and on road. What would be my best bet? I thought of adding spacer and bring back the Bilstein back from 2.5" to stock .
CF_Machete
Senior Member
1) if your suspension is stiffening up over time, it sounds like a valving issue with your shocks.
2) the adjustable c-clip perches on the billsteins function like adjustable spacers. You would only need a spacer if you couldn't get the precise ride height you wamted with the available perches.
So lowering the perch an adding a spacer of the same height is essentaily -1 + 1 = 0 and thus zero change in ride quality
heyitsmeraj
New member
Thanks CF_Machete.
I am going to the shop today to check my shocks and see whats causing the stiff ride. Hopefully they will figure out why.
I am going to the shop today to check my shocks and see whats causing the stiff ride. Hopefully they will figure out why.
Last edited:
New to the forum, and quite honestly I'm suffering from information overload, so I thought I would throw a couple of questions out on this thread.
I am having the Icon Stage II installed, and in talking with the Icon folks, they say if I set the front to 3.5 inches, along with the 2 inch springs in the back, I will be completely level. Any thoughts on this? Also, how much load can the back take on Icon 2 inch springs before they sag? At the end of the day, I don't want backwards rake (99% of the time I will have less than 200lbs in the cargo area). Overall, I would like as much lift as possible without going to a 6 inch lift or body lift (I'm fine with 3 inches all the way around).
2018 TRD ORP, currently with a ProComp 3/2 spacer kit installed, with 265/70/17 tires on TRD Pro SEMA wheels (would like to go to 275 or 285 in the future).
I am having the Icon Stage II installed, and in talking with the Icon folks, they say if I set the front to 3.5 inches, along with the 2 inch springs in the back, I will be completely level. Any thoughts on this? Also, how much load can the back take on Icon 2 inch springs before they sag? At the end of the day, I don't want backwards rake (99% of the time I will have less than 200lbs in the cargo area). Overall, I would like as much lift as possible without going to a 6 inch lift or body lift (I'm fine with 3 inches all the way around).
2018 TRD ORP, currently with a ProComp 3/2 spacer kit installed, with 265/70/17 tires on TRD Pro SEMA wheels (would like to go to 275 or 285 in the future).
SR5 Phil
New member
Q's on a modest drawback-free (!) lift for an SR5
First question from a new forum member. Be kind to the noob!
I'm considering a modest lift for my bone stock 2016 SR5 4WD. I'd like a little more clearance, and little better approach & departure angles without unduly impacting the on-road civility of the vehicle. I will be keeping the stock wheel & tire sizes. I also want to avoid alignment issues, or any complications with ABS/traction/stability control as a result of the lift. This is a family camping/exploration rig rather than a Rubicon crawler but I've still touched down on the rear end and bonked the front frame on a few places that I didn't think I would.
Cost is an issue (where's my money tree?), so $1000 or under after paying for install would be super. I've read through most of this thread and am thinking of 3 options of increasing price and would really like to hear pros & cons from anyone with knowledge or direct experience on these:
1. The Daystar spacer kit at the beginning of the thread, 2.5" front, 1.5" back. Very affordable but that seems to guarantee some big drawbacks. How do these impact ride & handling? Articulation off road? Are they useful in any way or is this just cosmetic? Not too fond of the way it levels the stance, a kit with 1.5-2.0" up front would be preferable. Are the stock shocks too short to use with spacers?
2. Bilstein 5100 front shocks set to 1.75", stock shocks on the rear with 1.5" spacers. Keep stock coils all around. Preserves the forward rake. Any weird handling characteristics from pairing the Bilsteins with the soft stock rear shocks?
3. Bilstein 5100 shocks on all 4 corners. The fronts adjusted to 1.75", the rear nonadjustables paired with 1.5" spacers. Stock coils all around. How do the ride/handling of the 5100s compare to the stock shocks? Reduction in roll and brake dive? Does the ride become harsh?
I've located a few forum members with similar setups that I will reach out to, but any opinions from the forum at large would be helpful. Thanks!
First question from a new forum member. Be kind to the noob!
I'm considering a modest lift for my bone stock 2016 SR5 4WD. I'd like a little more clearance, and little better approach & departure angles without unduly impacting the on-road civility of the vehicle. I will be keeping the stock wheel & tire sizes. I also want to avoid alignment issues, or any complications with ABS/traction/stability control as a result of the lift. This is a family camping/exploration rig rather than a Rubicon crawler but I've still touched down on the rear end and bonked the front frame on a few places that I didn't think I would.
Cost is an issue (where's my money tree?), so $1000 or under after paying for install would be super. I've read through most of this thread and am thinking of 3 options of increasing price and would really like to hear pros & cons from anyone with knowledge or direct experience on these:
1. The Daystar spacer kit at the beginning of the thread, 2.5" front, 1.5" back. Very affordable but that seems to guarantee some big drawbacks. How do these impact ride & handling? Articulation off road? Are they useful in any way or is this just cosmetic? Not too fond of the way it levels the stance, a kit with 1.5-2.0" up front would be preferable. Are the stock shocks too short to use with spacers?
2. Bilstein 5100 front shocks set to 1.75", stock shocks on the rear with 1.5" spacers. Keep stock coils all around. Preserves the forward rake. Any weird handling characteristics from pairing the Bilsteins with the soft stock rear shocks?
3. Bilstein 5100 shocks on all 4 corners. The fronts adjusted to 1.75", the rear nonadjustables paired with 1.5" spacers. Stock coils all around. How do the ride/handling of the 5100s compare to the stock shocks? Reduction in roll and brake dive? Does the ride become harsh?
I've located a few forum members with similar setups that I will reach out to, but any opinions from the forum at large would be helpful. Thanks!
Last edited:
slikens
New member
Came here to post literally almost the exact same thing. Looking forward to seeing some feedback on this. I'm leaning towards option 3 out of those, but really am not 100% positive!
mtnbiker49
New member
If you expanded your budget to $1500, you could get Fox 2.0 coilovers and smooth body rear shocks with a pair of some branded rear coils. Fox probably rides as close to stock as possible. Bilstein stiffens.
jcrown7
New member
Alright, after MUCH digging, price comparing, and spec searching, I'm trying to decide between the 2" and 3.5" Camburg long travel kit.
Since the performance aspect won't be an issue, my biggest concern is actually aesthetic. Even if I ditched the stock fenders, and got a set of the glassed/flared fenders would the 3.5" kit still be able to fit 285's (either 70 or 75) INSIDE the fender?
Hopefully someone has an answer for this one!
Since the performance aspect won't be an issue, my biggest concern is actually aesthetic. Even if I ditched the stock fenders, and got a set of the glassed/flared fenders would the 3.5" kit still be able to fit 285's (either 70 or 75) INSIDE the fender?
Hopefully someone has an answer for this one!
pDubs
New member
Doing a 1" cornfed lift (spacers) in the front only on my 5th gen.
What are you guys doing to get the strut out to put on new spacer?
I've seen:
*people remove the skid plate/ remove entire sway bar, remove just the sway bar end link, removing nothing from the sway bar at all
*People removing the tie rod joint, some not
*People removing upper ball joint
*People removing the 2 bolts on buttom of hub near lower ball joint
Just trying to see what the easier way will be.
What are you guys doing to get the strut out to put on new spacer?
I've seen:
*people remove the skid plate/ remove entire sway bar, remove just the sway bar end link, removing nothing from the sway bar at all
*People removing the tie rod joint, some not
*People removing upper ball joint
*People removing the 2 bolts on buttom of hub near lower ball joint
Just trying to see what the easier way will be.
Last edited:
The Waco Kid
New member
I'd just follow the sp8ball write up in the "5th gen mods" sticky. It's a proven safe (if done correctly), and efficient way of installing a spacer (or removing and installing shocks).
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/86370-sp8ball-s-mod-thread-stealing-other-poster-s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-6.html#post754964
jcrown7
New member
pDubs
New member
Thanks! It seems like I would skip step 6 and 7 though, as I am not pressing in new studs, right? I would just jump to removing the 3 bolts on top and removing the entire strut as one.
The Waco Kid
New member
You shouldn't if you go by the thread I linked.
Based on my quick google search, it appears you will need longer studs.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/140961-cornfed-1-front-spacer-level-only.html
Last edited:
pDubs
New member
Hmm, I was under the impression the 1" lift cornfed (1/2" thick) spacer didn't require new studs and came with low profile nuts, at least I read that somewhere in one thread when searching. I guess I will find out when they come in on Saturday. Tracking # is showing Saturday delivery and I wanted to be fully prepped to knock it out when they arrive.
I did the 2.5/1.5 daystar on my 4th gen by fully removing sway bar off the truck and popping the top ball joint off which was kind of a PITA. I also just did front wheel bearing and cv axles on the 4th gen last week and just removed the 2 bolts near the bottom ball joint to do CV, and it seemed to be way easier than when I did the lift 3~ years ago.
I did the 2.5/1.5 daystar on my 4th gen by fully removing sway bar off the truck and popping the top ball joint off which was kind of a PITA. I also just did front wheel bearing and cv axles on the 4th gen last week and just removed the 2 bolts near the bottom ball joint to do CV, and it seemed to be way easier than when I did the lift 3~ years ago.
Total noob here. Like a few above said I’ve got some info overload. My wife also negotiated a lift in after we settled on a price for our 2018 sr5 premium 4x4 so that makes it harder for me to get started.
This is listed as a 3/1 lift on the paper work
Procomp EXP 65210K 3.0 Front
Bilstein 5100s rear
Spring sub assembly, hollow
Now again, I’m a noob and while I’ve skimmed the suspension threads I haven’t seen this combo. I’m not much of a gear head so I may be wrong about all this but to me this means the spring sub assembly is functioning as a spacer in the rear and the Billsteins are set to 1 the 1 in the 3/1. Then the procomp front is my 3 in front. Assuming I don’t have the 1 in suspension in front since it appears to be factory shocks still.
I’d like to have 5100s added to the front but just wanting some opinions, that’s why I’m here.
I will say the lift has already saved me $. I went on some power line trails with a friend who has a TRD OR with no lift and he broke his predator bar going through something I didn’t get close to touching.
This is listed as a 3/1 lift on the paper work
Procomp EXP 65210K 3.0 Front
Bilstein 5100s rear
Spring sub assembly, hollow
Now again, I’m a noob and while I’ve skimmed the suspension threads I haven’t seen this combo. I’m not much of a gear head so I may be wrong about all this but to me this means the spring sub assembly is functioning as a spacer in the rear and the Billsteins are set to 1 the 1 in the 3/1. Then the procomp front is my 3 in front. Assuming I don’t have the 1 in suspension in front since it appears to be factory shocks still.
I’d like to have 5100s added to the front but just wanting some opinions, that’s why I’m here.
I will say the lift has already saved me $. I went on some power line trails with a friend who has a TRD OR with no lift and he broke his predator bar going through something I didn’t get close to touching.
Similar threads
