5th Gen 4Runner Lift Buyers Guide

[the_fornicator]

ok, need a bit of help here from somebody (which is pretty much anybody) that's more knowledgeable than myself. I sort of dug myself into a hole and need a way out lol

I bought bilstein 5100s for the front of rear of my SR5. I lifted the front 2.75" and apparently, the rears don't provide any lift (lulz). For some reason, I thought the rears were adjustable like the front. Not so. I measured from the middle of the wheel hub to the bottom of the fender line and I guess the rear is 1" lower than the front. So I need to lift the rear at least 1" (I'd be ok with 2" but 2" tops -2" will give me some rake back which I'm ok with). Edit: stock coils all around so far.

After some digging, from what I'm reading, the proper way to do the rears is to go with springs. I don't offroad or anything (I live in Canada and get heaps of snow during the winter which is why I own the thing) and I'd like to maintain OEM feel (softer is better).

Can anybody suggest a set of rear springs? OME gives me too much of a lift (3") and I keep coming back to Toytec Superflex springs which give me a 2" lift. Anybody have any experience with these? Eibach springs for a 1" lift in the rear? Or can I get away with the spacer in the rear given the 5100 shock?

 

[The_Green_Wang]

ok, need a bit of help here from somebody (which is pretty much anybody) that's more knowledgeable than myself. I sort of dug myself into a hole and need a way out lol

I bought bilstein 5100s for the front of rear of my SR5. I lifted the front 2.75" and apparently, the rears don't provide any lift (lulz). For some reason, I thought the rears were adjustable like the front. Not so. I measured from the middle of the wheel hub to the bottom of the fender line and I guess the rear is 1" lower than the front. So I need to lift the rear at least 1" (I'd be ok with 2" but 2" tops -2" will give me some rake back which I'm ok with). Edit: stock coils all around so far.

After some digging, from what I'm reading, the proper way to do the rears is to go with springs. I don't offroad or anything (I live in Canada and get heaps of snow during the winter which is why I own the thing) and I'd like to maintain OEM feel (softer is better).

Can anybody suggest a set of rear springs? OME gives me too much of a lift (3") and I keep coming back to Toytec Superflex springs which give me a 2" lift. Anybody have any experience with these? Eibach springs for a 1" lift in the rear? Or can I get away with the spacer in the rear given the 5100 shock?

Yes you are right, springs / spacers give lift, not the shock itself. If you dont offroad much and trying to maintain the soft feel, you might get away with just spacers to increase the height. If not, I run icon 2inch springs and they are pretty comfortable. Heres my T4R with 3inch upfront and 2 rear.

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[GabrielM]

ok, need a bit of help here from somebody (which is pretty much anybody) that's more knowledgeable than myself. I sort of dug myself into a hole and need a way out lol

I bought bilstein 5100s for the front of rear of my SR5. I lifted the front 2.75" and apparently, the rears don't provide any lift (lulz). For some reason, I thought the rears were adjustable like the front. Not so. I measured from the middle of the wheel hub to the bottom of the fender line and I guess the rear is 1" lower than the front. So I need to lift the rear at least 1" (I'd be ok with 2" but 2" tops -2" will give me some rake back which I'm ok with). Edit: stock coils all around so far.

After some digging, from what I'm reading, the proper way to do the rears is to go with springs. I don't offroad or anything (I live in Canada and get heaps of snow during the winter which is why I own the thing) and I'd like to maintain OEM feel (softer is better).

Can anybody suggest a set of rear springs? OME gives me too much of a lift (3") and I keep coming back to Toytec Superflex springs which give me a 2" lift. Anybody have any experience with these? Eibach springs for a 1" lift in the rear? Or can I get away with the spacer in the rear given the 5100 shock?

I had Bilstein 5100 and Toytec spring on each corner of my 2010. The front shock was at their lower settings and was a great setup. Only thing that you may validate is if the Bilstein shock length would accommodate your lift.

I also live in Canada and everyone that run Icons removed them in winter due to rust issues. I may go with a full OME setup on my 2016 since my local club will do a group Buy and will be definitely cheaper than ordering from the US.

 

[Angelo]

ok, need a bit of help here from somebody (which is pretty much anybody) that's more knowledgeable than myself. I sort of dug myself into a hole and need a way out...

If you have the front 5100s set at the top setting you'll probably settle around 2.5" in the front with the OEM springs. If you're higher than that now it's likely because they haven't settled. If they STAY higher than 2.5 you should make sure the install didn't flip a washer and than everything is seated correctly. You can totally run a 1.5" spacer in the back with the OEM springs, Cornfed probably makes the most popular one around here but I know there are others. Tons of pics and experience posts in here...

Another Bilstein 5100 question

If you're looking to stay in the 1.5-2" range in the back with springs I think your best choices are either the Wheelers T13 (1.5", made by Eibach), Icon 2", or new Bilstein B12 (listed as providing 1.5"-2"). Dobinsons makes a bunch of options also but they're teal unless you call them and confirm a different color if that bothers you, they make black and red in certain springs. I haven't run the SAW 1.5" rears from Toytec but I've read a fair amount of people saying both the SAWs and the Superflex 2.0 got them 2" or over in the rear depending on application.

 

[the_fornicator]

Appreciate the feedback, gentlemen!

I didnt realize i could have went with spacers (always heard this wasn't the proper way to go) and ended up buying toytec superflex springs. I need 1" to be level so i figured with a 2" spring lift, i could get a small amount of rake back.

I sure do hope the fronts were installed properly lol i had a mechanic friend install it (he does mercedes stuff so he's not too well versed with lift stuff), but I'll get him to check that everything seated properly.

I'll do a bunch of before measurements and watch things like a hawk to ensure i dont go over 2". If so, I'll pull em and grab some cornfed spacers.

Thanks again, guys!

 

[d_rosey44]

Yes you are right, springs / spacers give lift, not the shock itself. If you dont offroad much and trying to maintain the soft feel, you might get away with just spacers to increase the height. If not, I run icon 2inch springs and they are pretty comfortable. Heres my T4R with 3inch upfront and 2 rear.

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You mentioned 3inch upfront. What exactly is it? 3 inch spacer? New coil?

 

[J0HN_R1]

Can anybody suggest a set of rear springs? OME gives me too much of a lift (3") and I keep coming back to Toytec Superflex springs which give me a 2" lift. Anybody have any experience with these? Eibach springs for a 1" lift in the rear? Or can I get away with the spacer in the rear given the 5100 shock?

I just had my 5100's installed, but my rear springs have been delayed (1" Bilstein B12 from Essex Distributors).

Give me till the end of the week, and I can post pics of what a front 2.5" & rear 1" lift looks like.

Shop said I'm currently about 1/2" higher in the front, meaning once I install the 1" rear springs it should sit with about 1/2" of rake (slightly higher in the rear).

This is what it looks like currently, no rear lift just the front 5100's @ 2.5"... Slight rubbing with 285/65/18 Goodyear DuraTracs.

 

[the_fornicator]

This is what it looks like currently, no rear lift just the front 5100's @ 2.5"... Slight rubbing with 285/65/18 Goodyear DuraTracs.

Oooo, I love the rims!

Hmm, where abouts are you rubbing?

My toytec springs arrived on Friday and I'm getting them installed this weekend. They're supposed to provide a 2" lift but from what guys are saying above, it might actually be a bit more. I hope it's not too much so as to mess with my brake lines and stuff.

 

[J0HN_R1]

Oooo, I love the rims!

Hmm, where abouts are you rubbing?

Thanks ! My 2014 Tacoma DCSB was white, but I had black wheels. They were actually 4th Gen 4runner Sport 17" wheels I had powdercoated.
I was feelin' a change, and dig the white/bronze look. I worked the wheels in on the deal when I bought the truck, as well as the Heritage grill...

Driver side rubs the white bumper piece on the leading edge, and slightly on the mudflap.
Passenger side only rubs the mudflap, but rubs pretty good at full lock.
Once the rear springs are installed, I think it may actually change "how much it rubs" a bit.
Maybe for the better, maybe not. I have some minor sanding/trimming to do though.
But the mudflaps gotta stay, my tires are almost flush now and these DuraTracs throw rocks like a gang of 9 y/o boys.
Dare I say it, I may even keep the factory running boards just to keep the rock-chips to a minimum...

ainkiller:

 

[The_Green_Wang]

You mentioned 3inch upfront. What exactly is it? 3 inch spacer? New coil?

They are icons 2.5 extended travel. sorry for late response

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[YellowSnow]

I’m not sure why more people aren’t just going with 5100s all around, with Wheelers T1/T13? Everything rides and looks perfect, rake is exactly where you want it with this set up, and wheelers will assemble the front coilovers for you.

 

[the_fornicator]

Driver side rubs the white bumper piece on the leading edge, and slightly on the mudflap.
Passenger side only rubs the mudflap, but rubs pretty good at full lock.
Once the rear springs are installed, I think it may actually change "how much it rubs" a bit.
Maybe for the better, maybe not. I have some minor sanding/trimming to do though.

Oh man, I'm about to go down the same route you are -just waiting for a sale on 285 durtracs.

I hope to god I don't have to chop any body mounts. I can deal with grinding a mudflap and trimming the bumper, but I don't want to mess with the body mounts.

Curious if there's a low profile / thinner mud flap you can buy?

Good luck man!

 

[CITYRNR]

I’m not sure why more people aren’t just going with 5100s all around, with Wheelers T1/T13? Everything rides and looks perfect, rake is exactly where you want it with this set up, and wheelers will assemble the front coilovers for you.

This is what I’m going for. I think the notch pet holds people back. Most people seem to do second notch so I guess you ask Wheelers to set it there before they assemble.


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[YellowSnow]

Oh man, I'm about to go down the same route you are -just waiting for a sale on 285 durtracs.

I hope to god I don't have to chop any body mounts. I can deal with grinding a mudflap and trimming the bumper, but I don't want to mess with the body mounts.

Curious if there's a low profile / thinner mud flap you can buy?

Good luck man!

I used to think the same way in regards to the bmc. It’s only a piece of steel that that can easily be trimmed without jeopardizing the integrity of the frame. It’s only a couple hour job that most fabrication guys can do. I just got mine done, looks completely oem and I have enough clearance to run 295+ easily.

 

[YellowSnow]

This is what I’m going for. I think the notch pet holds people back. Most people seem to do second notch so I guess you ask Wheelers to set it there before they assemble.


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They will set the fronts to 0.....which is exactly where you want it.

 

[the_fornicator]

I used to think the same way in regards to the bmc. It’s only a piece of steel that that can easily be trimmed without jeopardizing the integrity of the frame. It’s only a couple hour job that most fabrication guys can do. I just got mine done, looks completely oem and I have enough clearance to run 295+ easily.

I hear ya. My issue is whether I trust the shop to do a bang up job of it -seal everything up perfectly so as to prevent rust. No leaks, no missed spots, etc.

I have trust issues with rust lol

 

[comtn4x4]

I hear ya. My issue is whether I trust the shop to do a bang up job of it -seal everything up perfectly so as to prevent rust. No leaks, no missed spots, etc.

I have trust issues with rust lol

Leak? What would be leaking?
I think you're overthinking this area. Some rattle can paint should easily take care of this area. It's not like you could re-powder coat the frame....
Mine's been done for 5 years and shows no sign of rust

 

[mteolus]

Leak? What would be leaking?
I think you're overthinking this area. Some rattle can paint should easily take care of this area. It's not like you could re-powder coat the frame....
Mine's been done for 5 years and shows no sign of rust

How much did it cost you for the 4.56 gears and was it worth it? And how do you like your bump stops?

 

[CITYRNR]

They will set the fronts to 0.....which is exactly where you want it.

Thank you for the knowledge drop. That looks perfect.


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[comtn4x4]

How much did it cost you for the 4.56 gears and was it worth it? And how do you like your bump stops?

I paid $2300 including install by a local shop. That was about 2 years ago. I love the re-gear. Best mod I ever did and I should have done it years earlier. Here's a link to a review I did.

Review: East Coast Gear Supply Gear Swap

Bump stops are great, although I only ran them for about a month before I added my rear bumper and completely changed my suspension. Since then the suspension performance has been better suited to all the weight I've added to the rig over time.
Generally, I was only over compressing the rear suspension when heavily loaded. I could feel the rear end over compress and start to creak. Plus it wouldn't spring back as readily. With the bump stops it catches the rig much better ans sooner. I had probably damaged my rear springs and struts from over compression.
The front I had cranked up significantly to carry the extra weight and it didn't hit the bump stops much. Although now I can run it a bit softer and not worry about it (Coils were changed from 650# to 700#, as well as new shocks)
Bottom line the Duro bump stops are like $170 a set and totally worth it