5th Gen Calipers
- Thread starter 084RUNNAH
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verman84
New member
Yeah keep those lines and keep them from getting bent or kinked.
The fittings on one of mine stripped out and I had to get a new line cut to size and bend it into place.
Also, loosen the fittings while the caliper is bolted on to the vehicle, it makes it much easier to loosen when the caliper isn't flopping around.
One of mine were impossible to remove and ended up stripping. I had to grind it down and hammer a smaller socket onto it in order to get it off. Damn Midwest rustbelt.
The fittings on one of mine stripped out and I had to get a new line cut to size and bend it into place.
Also, loosen the fittings while the caliper is bolted on to the vehicle, it makes it much easier to loosen when the caliper isn't flopping around.
One of mine were impossible to remove and ended up stripping. I had to grind it down and hammer a smaller socket onto it in order to get it off. Damn Midwest rustbelt.
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SST4r, would I need to clamp the flexible line before the disconnect in order to prevent any brake fluid leaking?
SSt4r
New member
I wouldn't clamp the line; I'd be worried about damaging it. Someone who knows can chime in if it's OK.
If you have the new caliper ready, don't worry about it leaking. It'll just drip....
drip.....
........drip.
If you're going to keep it disconnected for a period of time, they do sell little plugs for the lines.
If you have the new caliper ready, don't worry about it leaking. It'll just drip....
drip.....
........drip.
If you're going to keep it disconnected for a period of time, they do sell little plugs for the lines.
pjbrownva
New member
Since no-one has replied yet, I'll weigh in with an OPINION (read... educated guess).
While I can't answer definitively, it doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
The 5th gen front brakes use a larger diameter rotor and also a thicker rotor than the standard '04 SR5 brakes.
Based on that, I don't think it would be a good idea to mix and match. Brakes *are* a critical component, and now you're starting to move into the territory of mis-matched components. To me, it's not worth the risk. You want to make sure everything aligns properly and works as intended.
I don't know if there would be any impact of running the front 5th gen calipers (designed for a larger, thicker, rotor) with the smaller, thinner, 4th gen front rotor... but I wouldn't want to experiment by possibly putting my safety and the safety of others at risk.
As for the rears..., I don't know enough to even try to guess.
Just my $0.02.
-Phil
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pjbrownva
New member
So it's been about 4 months since I installed the new calipers and rotors and when I was under my truck the other day I noticed the calipers were a rust orange color. My old OEM calipers I took off weren't this color and that was with 100k on them. I live in California so rust isn't really something I'm used to seeing on my truck. Is this just cosmetic?
[MENTION=97326]JeffMerr[/MENTION],
I saw your post, and the responses about a week after I finished my brake upgrade, (5th gen front calipers & rotors, 5th gen rear calipers, 4th gen rear rotors, ceramic pads all around) and unfortunately I too have started to notice some early discoloration on my new calipers. :cry2::cry2:
I've since ordered a set of G2 brake caliper paint for $37.00 from Amazon (photos attached... see here for some caliper paints for sale on Amazon) . I seems to be a good paint system, but my impression is that you need to follow the directions carefully (multiple thin coats of paint, proper cleaning beforehand, and also pay attention to the recommended working temperature range of 50-70 degrees F when you paint and let the calipers cure for 24 hrs).
So I'll need to find a weekend to put the truck up on jack stands, clean everything with the brake cleaner that comes with the set, then remove the calipers, bring them inside to the basement, let them warm up to at least 50 degrees F, and then paint them and let them cure for 24 hrs inside the basement.
The directions state to paint and let the paint cure for 24 hrs at a temp range between 50 and 70 degrees F, (and it's much colder outside this time of year).
C'est la vie!
If I had known sooner, I would have painted the calipers first, or even looked into purchasing pre-painted calipers. Someone (I don't remember who) posted info about a slightly different part number for the centric calipers that was $20 more per caliper and came pre-painted.
It would have been well worth the extra $80 or so if I had know what could or would happen :gossip: to unpainted calipers.
-Phil
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JeffMerr
New member
Funny you mention that, I actually just picked that up off Amazon the other day in black. Just waiting for a weekend where it's warmer than 50 degrees as well. I'm planning on keeping my calipers on and just doing a good prep job. There's a lot of youtube videos which show some good technique. Thanks for the heads up!
shahsmerdis
New member
Centric 142 series are painted for you
I'll let you know how the hold up over the winter...
pjbrownva
New member
Centric 142 series are painted for you
Good to know... (but a little too late).
Now I understand what Centric means by "OE" style finish
in the description of the 142 series calipers. That's jargon for saying
we painted or treated THESE calipers, so they won't rust!
(Would it have been so hard for them to say that in the description?).
I didn't get the 142 series because they came with pads and I wanted different, ceramic pads... but I didn't realize the difference re: painting, otherwise
I probably would have gotten the painted ones!
Oh well...! Hopefully this info will help others.
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dkyleb
New member
Thank you for posting this!
Maybe some clarification can be made here for the rears... Rear rotors should be the bigger sport rotors, right? I currently have SR5 rears.
IIRC its just the front that is different. The rears all the same, well on the 4th gens anyway.
shahsmerdis
New member
To be honest I rather have the 142 series because of the garanteed new piston. while the 142 is painted it is not really the best paint job. So don't beat yourself up. if that little bit of rust is the only problem you have, consider yourself lucky.... I just wish there was a series without the crappy brake pads they put in there...
just a waste of money
Well this has certainly been trying. The whole install went smooth as silk. But I have a crazy bad clicking sound coming from the rear end now. . . and my hunch is that it is a piece of the parking brake mechanism catching on the inside of the rotor or the hub. Both sides and shoes are fully retracted (I don't use it anyway) but there is a serious "click" when rolling. I'm doing some diagnosing now with it back on jacks.
Update:
Right rear aft parking brake shoe retaining pin was somehow bent. This allowed the shoe to not be retracted far enough (even with the adjuster at full contraction).
So I'll order that up. In the mean time I've removed the majority of the components in there and zip tied them secure and I'll be without a parking brake until I get the parts.
Then torquing the last bolt on the last wheel. . . broke the stud. So add that to the list of fun things I get to do this week.
What a nightmare this has been.
BUT! The braking is improved! I need to bleed the fronts again as the pedal is still somewhat soft in the first 1-2" of travel.
Right rear aft parking brake shoe retaining pin was somehow bent. This allowed the shoe to not be retracted far enough (even with the adjuster at full contraction).
So I'll order that up. In the mean time I've removed the majority of the components in there and zip tied them secure and I'll be without a parking brake until I get the parts.
Then torquing the last bolt on the last wheel. . . broke the stud. So add that to the list of fun things I get to do this week.
What a nightmare this has been.
BUT! The braking is improved! I need to bleed the fronts again as the pedal is still somewhat soft in the first 1-2" of travel.
I just started noticing a burning smell after driving my 05 SR5; it's a distinctive smell - almost like a metal or electrical burn. Turns out my front calipers are starting to seize or already seizing.
I plan on replacing my brake set up with the following:
Calipers: OEM 5th gen for all 4 corners
Rotors: 5th gen centric rotors for all 4 corners?
Pads: OEM pads
Lines: stainless steel - need ideas
I have an 05 SR5, with the standard rims (265/65r17) - will I have any clearance issues w/ the 5th gen rotors and the oem rims?
I am either thinking of the following for rotors:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HEICVO...TF8&colid=38J5HV5R32OSP&coliid=I3HAAECXAEJWH4
or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FL6M6A...TF8&colid=38J5HV5R32OSP&coliid=I2MHDQ15CWD4YA
So I guess what I am trying to ask is will this set up work for my T4R?
I plan on replacing my brake set up with the following:
Calipers: OEM 5th gen for all 4 corners
Rotors: 5th gen centric rotors for all 4 corners?
Pads: OEM pads
Lines: stainless steel - need ideas
I have an 05 SR5, with the standard rims (265/65r17) - will I have any clearance issues w/ the 5th gen rotors and the oem rims?
I am either thinking of the following for rotors:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HEICVO...TF8&colid=38J5HV5R32OSP&coliid=I3HAAECXAEJWH4
or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FL6M6A...TF8&colid=38J5HV5R32OSP&coliid=I2MHDQ15CWD4YA
So I guess what I am trying to ask is will this set up work for my T4R?
