5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

What’s your go to oil?


  • Total voters
    541
All technically true, but in practice, if you have a functional cooling system you will overheat that before your oil temp ever gets to a damaging temp. I agree that oil temps will fluctuate independently for brief periods, but in normal driving I find that the coolant will keep that range within tolerance for any modern oil. All this being dependent on a cooling system with enough reserve to cover the range......4Runner seems to do that nicely as I live in one of the hottest places cars are used and can't raise the temp more than a tick over the middle of the gauge in 120+ here. Yes, air temp adds a increased load to the system, but it is sized appropriately and can shed the extra heat effectively from my experience.

fair points :beer:

i think going by Toyota's 5k mile oil change regimen in those situations doesn't hurt either.
 
I need a rear diff breather for my new rig but paying for the ARB is ridiculous. I just need a basic two way valve that will fit, then I can run some basic hose. Do you guys know of anything or the thread dimensions?
 
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I need a rear diff breather for my new rig but paying for the ARB is ridiculous. I just need a basic two way valve that will fit, then I can run some basic hose. Do you guys know of anything or the thread dimensions?

Did you mean to post in an engine oil thread?

Anyways, the 3 parts you will need.

Union, part# 90404-51319
Breather, part# 90930-03136
10' or so of 5/16" fuel line

4Runner Rear Diff Breather Extension - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

or follow any of the ARB instructions, as it's basically same thing.
 
QSUD 5w30 just took 4th Place out of 228 oils tested. Wow!!! See the results for yourself.


MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA | 540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

In the spring of 2016 eight 0W-20 motors oils were tested with these rankings:

“ 1. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (gold bottle) = 124,393 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F
.
.
2. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 255*F
.
.
3. 0W20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 100,229 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 265*F
.
.
4. 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from Natural Gas, API SN, synthetic
(silver bottle with blue vertical stripe on the label) = 92,504 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 275*F
.
.
5. 0W20 Castrol Edge, Fluid Titanium Technology, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic
(black bottle) = 90,745 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F
.
.
6. 0W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN, synthetic = 89,556 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F
.
.
7. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advance Fuel Economy, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 79,612 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F
.
.
8. 0W20 Kendall GT-1, with liquid Titanium, API SN, synthetic = 71,385 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 260*F .”
 
Yep, QSUD has been one of the most consistent oils being made, despite the move to SN Plus. Qudos to QS for being so consistent! Add the Walmart price and its hard to beat.
20 weight oils definitely have their place, guys up in Canada are eliminating piston slap in the 5.7 Hemi with 0w20’s in the freezing cold. The move to 20 weight oil is a double edged sword imo. It has forced oil manufacturers to develop better oils but the service range is limited.
 
Yes and that's why it runs so much quieter and smoother. These engines need the Moly for whatever reason. Compare Toyota oil to Mobil 1 or Valvoline, Toyota is far superior. Toyota oil is actually made by Mobil but to Toyota spec. Nothing off the shelf has the same packages as the Toyota oil does. IMO Mobil 1 is living off past reputation, kinda like Fram filters. It's not what it used to be.

Good information
 
I've had an opportunity to run a 20 weight oil and a 30 weight oil and there are pro's and con's to both. Test oils were Amsoil 0w20 and Amsoil 0w30.

The only pro's for the 0w20 was on cold starts and short trips. I was in Georgia last week and it was dipping into the low to mid 20 degrees at night and the 0w20 defiantly sounded better than the 0w30 on cold morning. And on short trips the 0w20 sounded better with mechanical noise overall.

The 0w30 sounded and felt So Much better overall, and when i was in Florida the 0w30 was butter. Accelerating onto the interstate the engine was much smoother, cold starts were nice and smooth do to the warm weather, city driving was noticeably better and less noisy. Gas mileage? I didn't bother to hand calculate but i know exactly how many tanks of gas it takes on my travels and the difference was not worth calculating.

Overall? I'd recommend the 0w20 in the winter and if you do a lot of short trips; and 30 weight during the summer. Me being in the south east i'll be running the 0w30 or 5w30 year round. If you haven't tried or considered a 30 weight oil i'd recommend trying it this summer, i think you'll be surprised on how well the engine sounds and performs overall.
 
Two years ‘free’ maintenance and 5 oil changes...

No need to research. Stick to Toyota oil and filter at the Toyota recommended weight, at the Toyota recommended interval. If you’re looking for advice from random people on a forum, make sure you get their qualifications and find out why they are more knowledgeable than Toyota engineers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

... came with my new ride. So Toyota gets to choose the first five times.
 
Right on right on right on!

Toyota engineers don't know what they're doing. I know what's best for my truck. Thicker is always better, so I use 90W gear lube in the engine, axle grease in the transfer case and diffs, and roofing tar in the slip yokes and U-joints. Booyah. /s

If a spoon won’t stand up in it ...
 
Me being in the south east i'll be running the 0w30 or 5w30 year round. If you haven't tried or considered a 30 weight oil i'd recommend trying it this summer, i think you'll be surprised on how well the engine sounds and performs overall.

i'm in your neck of the woods as well, and can confirm it runs excellent on a 30. not very surprising since its what toyota recommends in other hot climate foreign markets for this engine anyway.

how long did you run the Amsoil? that's a great oil, but pricey...i'd feel bad draining it at less thank 10k miles!
 
i'm in your neck of the woods as well, and can confirm it runs excellent on a 30. not very surprising since its what toyota recommends in other hot climate foreign markets for this engine anyway.

how long did you run the Amsoil? that's a great oil, but pricey...i'd feel bad draining it at less thank 10k miles!

Dumped the factory fill at 2300 and filled up with Amsoil 0w20 and ran it for about 5k :whipping2 I honestly thought about running it longer because the oil still looked ok; it was dark but still had a hint of Carmel color to it. But I wanted to get the 30 weight in a try it out. I’m surprised how easy the 4.0 is on oil.
 
OK guys, this is my Oil analysis on my rig and think it looks good compared to my other trucks. But I’ve never owned a Toyota and have nothing to compare it to. My 6.4 Hemi amd my 6.0 L96 both had copper in the 300+ ppm and iron in the mid 150’s ppm on a virgin engine so this report looks good to me but would like to hear from y’all. Any input on the wear numbers or other UOA’s that I can compare would be appreciated.
 

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I need to correct the Central America comment. Manual States Puerto Rico not Panama. I do apologize for my confusion.

Interesting enough the following oils are approved for Puerto Rico:

0w20
5w20
5w30
10w30
15w40

SEE PIC!
The only reason we are left with 0w20 is because of environmental regulations (mpg) and the lack of confidence in owners being able to consider cold/hot climates. I would much rather run 5w30 since I’m in California but since I got the extended warranty I’ll stick to 0w20 so a clueless dealer doesn’t have a fit.
 

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