5th Gen Receiver Seems Short and What Drop for the Insert?

RichinRidgewood

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I will do some towing soon.

The trailer I was considering is a 14’ utility trailer with 15” wheels.

I want to buy a new insert for my SR5P and I noticed that the receiver seems like it is really short compared to the ones I had on my pick ups. Toyota has an insert* they sell. Do you need a special short insert for the 4R?

What drop in the receiver is needed for the 2020 SR5P 4R?

Thanks in advance.
 
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The receiver does seem to be shorter than what is usually found on a truck, but I’ve never had an issue with it. Concerning drop, I find that to be dependent on the trailer or lift. I like my trailers to be close to level when towing. I mostly use a 2” drop, but have a lower riding trailer that I tow with a 3” or 4” drop.
 
Your standard hitch mounts will be fine to drop in the receiver.

Not sure if you’ll need a drop hitch. I’ve got a 1.5” lift in the rear and I thought I’d need one, but with a full 6x12’ enclosed trailer load, everything levels out.


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The part that slides into the receiver hits the spare tire if you go in past the hitch pin holes. The amount of drop for each vehicle depends on how high the receiver is and how low the ball coupler on the trailer. For example, I have a 1" lift and 32" tires, so to connect to my utility trailer and keep it all kind of level I use a 4" drop hitch. I just bought an 8" drop yesterday at Tractor Supply for $36, so the dealer might not be the best choice for variety. The ball size (1 and 7/8" or 2" most commonly) and the ball shank diameter and length are also important.
 
dude get a tape measure and see how much drop you need. go to autozone and buy one with the shortest shank so it doesnt hit the spare tire. or just run whatever receiver you have, it wont matter. Is this your first time towing something?
 
dude get a tape measure and see how much drop you need. go to autozone and buy one with the shortest shank so it doesnt hit the spare tire. or just run whatever receiver you have, it wont matter. Is this your first time towing something?

LOL
No.
Examples:
Snowmobiles in a covered trailer being pulled by a F-150 in 4X4 on I-75 into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in some of the worst snow and ice conditions imaginable. Sometimes 8-10 hrs each way. Gave that up after a few years.

Malibu Ski boats on crowded slippery docks with a bunch of drunks on the docks and highways

Dirtbikes on trailers

Etc.

I just dont want to use my old inserts because they are rusty and the 4Runner has a short receiver. I dont want the trailer riding nose up and this is not the only trailer I’ll probably pull.
 
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Get the trailer, load the trailer with max load you’d carry, hook it up to a straight receiver and then measure the desired height. Purchase the receiver with the drop that correlates to desired tow height. Or purchase a receiver that is height adjustable.
I’d be somewhat careful with height adjustable receivers that sit really low; I’ve ran a few that would bottom out if the tongue weight was heavy and I hit big bumps.


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They are called "draw bars".

There are different shank lengths, amount of drop built in & they also sell adjustable models. (which cost more $)
 
‘18 SR5, stock. Old U-Haul 6’ open box trailer, 2500# capacity. Curt 4” drop hitch w/2” ball purchased at one of the chain automotive stores. Heaviest loads I have carried to date are one ton pallets of bagged heating pellets. I also use the hitch to drag a length of railroad rail with welded chain and an open loop as a drag to smooth my gravel driveways and remove small brush and create fire breaks on my property. No issues with the factory receiver. Big issue with the lousy location of the plug for trailer lighting, but I’m an old fart and that is the subject of another thread.
 
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‘18 SR5, stock. Old U-Haul 6’ open box trailer, 2500# capacity. Curt 4” drop hitch w/2” ball purchased at one of the chain automotive stores. Heaviest loads I have carried to date are one ton pallets of bagged heating pellets. I also use the hitch to drag a length of railroad rail with welded chain and an open loop as a drag to smooth my gravel driveways and remove small brush and create fire breaks on my property. No issues with the factory receiver. Big issue with the lousy location of the plug for trailer lighting, but I’m an old fart and that is the subject of another thread.


How’s the price of heating pellets nowadays? Been considering either pellet stove or there’s also an “EPA 2020 wood stove” at tractor supply


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How’s the price of heating pellets nowadays? Been considering either pellet stove or there’s also an “EPA 2020 wood stove” at tractor supply

For years I paid around $250 per ton for premium brands (Golden Fire, Lignetics, etcetera), but they all rose to over $300 in the past couple years. One can buy some premium off brands for around $289.

Still, I prefer pellets over firewood. Though nowadays one can buy palletized firewood at local ranch supply outlets in town. Sure beats the old days of cutting, hauling and splitting my own.

Nowadays I just simply keep the hopper full and let the thermostat do the rest.
 
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I didn't even give a second thought to using my old hitch hardware, several old rusty ones worked great, no depth issues, but I think I'll pick up a 3" drop to level things off a bit more for what I tow. Never hurts to have options. On a related topic though, can we talk about the position of that wiring connector? Now that was a challenge, as some of my trailer-side wiring was too short to reach. I am contemplating relocating that thing because it's driving me crazy.
 
‘18 SR5, stock. Old U-Haul 6’ open box trailer, 2500# capacity. Curt 4” drop hitch w/2” ball purchased at one of the chain automotive stores. Heaviest loads I have carried to date are one ton pallets of bagged heating pellets. I also use the hitch to drag a length of railroad rail with welded chain and an open loop as a drag to smooth my gravel driveways and remove small brush and create fire breaks on my property. No issues with the factory receiver. Big issue with the lousy location of the plug for trailer lighting, but I’m an old fart and that is the subject of another thread.

I didn't even give a second thought to using my old hitch hardware, several old rusty ones worked great, no depth issues, but I think I'll pick up a 3" drop to level things off a bit more for what I tow. Never hurts to have options. On a related topic though, can we talk about the position of that wiring connector? Now that was a challenge, as some of my trailer-side wiring was too short to reach. I am contemplating relocating that thing because it's driving me crazy.

Amazon has 4 pin trailer wire extenders for $10-$20
 
an adjustable ball mount is probably what you will need to suit your towing. B&W is solid but there are many options

If you haven't cleaned out your 7 and 4 pin connections, I'd clean those out with some contact cleaner before you hook anything up
 
Amazon has 4 pin trailer wire extenders for $10-$20
Yes, I have one of those. Absolutely necessary for my trailer plug to reach the outlet on the truck. However, I don’t leave it plugged in and hanging when not using my trailer.

As for lighting outlet location, there’s a thread somewhere here where a member modified his by locating the outlet next to the receiver.
 

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