87 22re - Problem Deciphering Diagnostic Code

[Defy Concealment]

87 22re - Problem Deciphering Diagnostic Code - (Flooding) *Solved

EDIT: Problem solved. See last few posts.

Hey guys, I am working through a flooding issue in my 87 22RE and I am having trouble decifering a Code thats being thrown by my motor. It has a swapped motor in it from the PO and I am trying to figure out if it is trying to throw 3 single digit codes or 1 two digit code and 1 single digit (if the motor is from a newer model or something.

The codes are 2 - 4 - 8.

The Check engine light throws the codes in that order with different amount of time between the numbers it is something like below. always starting with 2

2 (~2 second gap) 4 (~4 second gap) 8 (~2second gap) then repeats the order.

I am trying to figure out if the thing is saying 24 , 8 (which looks like the same code in newer 22res, AFM intake air temp sensor issue?) or if it is 2, 4, 8

I read that 87 and older only throws single digit codes. But they have even gaps in between the numbers. So I am wondering if the engine and/or ECU was from a 88 or newer? It has the actual Diagnostic box by the fuze box above the passenger fender well BTW.

Quick background of my problem for those who are curious. My truck is trying to flood randomly. Most often under load, but sometimes i have driven it around and let it sit for a few minutes before trying to start it again (hot start) When I hit the gas (or sometimes on idle) the truck tries to fall on its face, misses, I can smell gas, and black smoke comes out of the tailpipe. It often won't idle as well, missing and stalling out.

It has the problem randomly as well. Just the other day I drove 100 miles to Antioch and it only stuttered once. But then on the way back it did it 5-10 times.

I have tested the resistance of the AFM and TPS and they seem to pass, but one of the error codes points to the AFM temp sensor so I will double check.

If anyone has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[grumpin]

Should be 4.5 seconds between flashes, strange. Highest code for an 87 is 13, 14 if turbocharged. Per FSM. The 88 FSM starts at code 12. Hope this helps. Not sure what to say about the time in between.

 

[KidVermicious]

Check the part number on your ECU, sounds like a later model. '85-'87 will have single digit codes that will be counted out in a steady series of flashes, with a long gap between them to indicate stops and starts. With the two digit codes you'll get shorter gaps between digits in a code and longer gaps between codes. I agree that that seems like you're getting a 24 and an 8, both of which point to your intake air temp. Might not have anything to do with your flooding issue.

Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes

 

[Defy Concealment]

Well good news and bad news. I found someone mentioning that that code might just be because of an unplugged AFM. I did actually try and start it up after testing the AFm without the wiring harness plugged in by accident. So last night i reset the computer and took the truck for a drive.

No real changes. Still ran like crap. But this morning its even worse (the problem has been getting progressively worse over the last few weeks) the truck won't even start now!

It fires up, jumps to 1000rpm or so, then just dies. I can still smell gas as well. The computer is not throwing any codes now either. Maybe just because I wasn't able to drive it enough. I'm stumped.

I recently removed the throttle body to clean the IACV so I am thinking I bumped the tps or something, so Im going to do a reset/adjustment this weekend and cross my fingers.

Any ideas?

 

[KidVermicious]

It fires up, jumps to 1000rpm or so, then just dies. I can still smell gas as well. The computer is not throwing any codes now either. Maybe just because I wasn't able to drive it enough. I'm stumped.

A bad AFM signal will act like this. Have you ohmed it out? Have you you tested it through the harness?

 

[Defy Concealment]

A bad AFM signal will act like this. Have you ohmed it out? Have you you tested it through the harness?

I did Ohm test the AFM. I also did a general check for sticking vane ect... and it all seemed to pass according to the "easy tricks" article I found. I will find the link to it.

When you say through the harness, what do you mean exactly? I unplugged the whole thing and took the AFM inside, so I am assuming I did NOT test through the harness.

 

[KidVermicious]

I did Ohm test the AFM. I also did a general check for sticking vane ect... and it all seemed to pass according to the "easy tricks" article I found. I will find the link to it.

This one: Toyota 22RE Air Flow Meter (AFM)

If there's a shorted or broken wire or a bad connector on either side of the path between the AFM and ECU causing a bad signal, it'll look like a bad AFM to the ECU. Ideally you'd run the same tests you already did, but at the ECU side of the harness, and if you get different results you know you've got a bad connector or bad wire.

I'm not saying your AFM or wiring is bad, but it seems like everything pointing back to something wrong with your intake. I'd at least verify continuity on those wires.

 

[Defy Concealment]

This one: Toyota 22RE Air Flow Meter (AFM)

If there's a shorted or broken wire or a bad connector on either side of the path between the AFM and ECU causing a bad signal, it'll look like a bad AFM to the ECU. Ideally you'd run the same tests you already did, but at the ECU side of the harness, and if you get different results you know you've got a bad connector or bad wire.

I'm not saying your AFM or wiring is bad, but it seems like everything pointing back to something wrong with your intake. I'd at least verify continuity on those wires.

Awesome. I will check that out. Thank you!

 

[Defy Concealment]

This one: Toyota 22RE Air Flow Meter (AFM)

If there's a shorted or broken wire or a bad connector on either side of the path between the AFM and ECU causing a bad signal, it'll look like a bad AFM to the ECU. Ideally you'd run the same tests you already did, but at the ECU side of the harness, and if you get different results you know you've got a bad connector or bad wire.

I'm not saying your AFM or wiring is bad, but it seems like everything pointing back to something wrong with your intake. I'd at least verify continuity on those wires.

UPDATE!

May have solved the problem. Following KidV's advice, I went to check the Continuity on the wiring harness going to the AFM. When I popped the plug off my flashlight hit it in such a way that something caught my eye.

I could see the reflection off all the contacts EXCEPT one! Well, I took a closer look and one of the female contacts in the plug had popped lose and backed up! It was the contact on the far right if I remember correctly. White wire with black stripe.

I peeled off the rubber cover on the back, shoved the bastard back in, plugged it back into the AFM and BAM, truck runs fine. I won't know for sure for a few days because the problem was intermittent, but I drove it around for about an hour yesterday, and drove to work without a hiccup so I am hopeful (knock on wood)

Thanks!!!

 

[grumpin]

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Nervo19]

UPDATE!

May have solved the problem...

Thanks!!!

It's great you did a follow up post. It's great for the next person searching for answers. I hope the problem is solved!

 

[Defy Concealment]

UPDATE:

Just wanted to do one last update on this thread to confirm that my problem definitely HAS been solved. Truck has ran beautiful for a good 3-400 miles already since the fix. It actually picked up 3-4 MPG as well! I am guessing its been running rich for a while and I just didn't notice til it moved into the "flooding" category.

I am going to update the thread title so hopefully this can help someone else if they ever have similar problems.

Thanks for the help guys!