89 Runner rear end help

A

akrunning

New member
Hello.

I've read a lot of posts and think this site is pretty awesome and now I need some help. Through a bit of negligence I've managed to allow the rear end on my '89 Runner (SR5 V6) to run out of fluid and now it's seized up a bit. I was able to limp it a few hundred feet, with some horrible noises, to get it off the road and now I need the quickest and cheapest fix. I'm currently in Vermont though originally from Alaska and have some tools with me. I'm moderately capable, but don't have a garage, and I'm pretty broke. Also need to drive back to Alaska in May. Any advice is good, especially on what rear ends are compatible in case I can find one cheap and just swap the whole thing out (I've done it with a '71 Land Cruiser). Thanks
 
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So, you almost definitely need a new third member. Depending on what you did, you might need new axle shafts. Only way to know is to pull them and find out. That's ok, you can do this with basic hand tools on the side of the road if you have to.

You'll need to put the rear axle on jackstands, pull the wheels, unfasten the brake lines and ebrake cable, then unbolt the axles and pull them out. Inspect the splines carefully, if you see twisting, chunking, or any other form of wear, you're going to need new shafts. Now open the drain and fill ports on the axle housing, not that you need to drain it at this point but it's a good habit. Unbolt the driveshaft from the third member, then unbolt the 3rd member from the axle. It may take some persuasion to free it from the housing, but a swift smack with a rubber hammer or a little leverage applied with a bottle jack should break it free.

You're going to need to determine what gear ratio you've got. Since you have to drop the third anyway, the best way is to count the teeth on the pinion gear and ring gear. You can also look at the axle code on your vin plate under the hood. You probably have 4.30 if you're an auto, 4.10 if you're manual, 4.56 and 4.88 are also a possibility. Once you know your gear ratio you can go shopping. I'm assuming new is out of the question, so wrecking yards are your quickest solution, but they'll want bucks. You can also scan your local classifieds or craigslist - search terms "toyota 8 inch third" and your gear ratio. [MENTION=69539]Hyde802[/MENTION] is nearish you and might be able to help with the search.
 
Oh, compatibility, any non-elocker 8" third. Find them in the rear of Toyota trucks from the early 80s through early '00s. You'll see lots of references to "V6" and "4cyl" and "turbo" thirds, ignore all that. If it's an 8" non-elocker third with the right gear ratio, you can use it.

For that matter, you could use one with the wrong gear ratio too, just don't put it 4WD.
 
I am in Johnson. The diff wasn't totally seized and after adding some thick lube I managed to get the truck back to my house (I was only a mile away).

I referenced the link you posted and I do have a 8" with 4:10 gears. I am hoping to get it torn apart tomorrow and see what the damage is so I can start searching for parts.
 
Hyde802, I was cruising around other posts and saw that you had a 4:10 3rd. Any chance you still have it and would be willing to sell it to me? I can maybe hitch a ride to your area this weekend.
 
I have one, but it will need bearings. Its for a 4cyl, but that doesnt really matter. After that, I just have spare used ring and pinions. Good news is your after the most popular gear ratio.

Johnson you say? At the College? I went there from 05-09. Had too much fun. Then lived in mo-vegas for a while after, before moving down to berlin There is a pretty good junk yard in Hardwick (about 30 min East on 15) called Gates (P: 802-472-5058) A little pricey and the counter lady can be a less than fun to deal with, but man do they have parts. If you cant find one there, I may be able to get you one from some local wheelers.

Good luck!
 
Okay, thanks. I'm not attending the college but enjoy the crowd, I'm going to the Vermont Woodworking School and having a good time, Well I was until my old Blue went down.

I'll call over to the junk yard when I get this thing apart and see what all is wrong. I'm really hoping the axle bearings aren't bad, those look like a pain in the a**.
 
They are a pain. Haha. I made a tool to help press them off. You can also take it to a shop and have them change the bearings. Randy at main street auto does good work, but is usually really busy, or Donas car store in Hardwick has done them for me in the past. ( I work in hardwick, so its easy to drop stuff off to them)

I have a feeling the bearings will be fine. Change the diff, throw some quality gear oil in there and keep on truckin.

Ahhh Woodworking school, hey at least you arnt at the "art school". Haha. My current job is at Vermont Natural Coatings, making wood finish. We used to send product to the Woodworking school, but havent shipped any there in quite some time.
 
Well, for the twist we have a right axle that won't spin, at least not freely. Haven't been able to get the brake drum off yet to see if there is something up with the brakes or if the bearing has indeed seized up. Sounds like a brake issue more than a bearing issue though.

I'm going to continue taking the diff out, since it leaks anyway, and check for damage. Thinking I'll take the axle to Main Street and see if he has time to help if I can't extract it myself.

Any advice on taking the drum off? or just bang it with a hammer until it comes loose?
 
Yup. or you can work 2 small screw drivers on the click wheel through the backing plate to loosten it like in the FSM

You dont have to pull the drums to get the shaft out. Just undo the break lines and the 4 bolts that hold it to the axle and it should slide out.

I may be headed to CT this weekend, but Id be happy to lend a hand after work some time if you need it.
 
Thanks. I got the axles out, no problem, but the drum sure is stuck.

I'll let you know how things turn out this weekend if I need a hand.

The diff is off and it looks clean. All the splines on the gears are nice and uniform, no gashes or signs of horrible wear. I think I'll just keep it. I'm thinking the issue is with the right axle. When I get the drum off I'll have a better idea of what's going on. I'm going to get the housing all cleaned up and slap on some new seals and hope to be moving again soon-ish.
 
Just got my axle back and installed. No issues, although I'm not impressed with how the mechanic go the bearing on, sort of beat it to hell. As long as it gets me back home to Alaska I don't care. Soon as one of my roommates gets home I'll bleed the breaks and hopefully be on the road again. Thanks for all the help and advice.
 
Regarding beating the bearings on, it all depends on what you hit and what you hit it with.

Pressing (hammering) a bearing, while crushing the rollers in the process, is never a good idea (ie, pressing on an outer race to install the inner) but a brass drift on a humble steel race is absolutment kosher, roadside or shop.

I don't recall bearings being particularly difficult in my front diff, but before launcing a trans Canada trip it would be nice to know if the backlash is good or you may be chewing off the tip of a gear just as the Bars are thinking about doing the same toyo ass. Backlash is set by the proper spacer outboard of the ring gear bearing, while the whole unit is preloaded (tight) on the carrier side. Done ?

Best of luck happy travels
 
Well, I spoke too soon. Got everything all buttoned up and ready to go so I started Blue up and went all of ten feet before hearing a awful grinding sound. I jacked it up and put it in gear then went around to listen and found that the right rear tire will not turn. When I force it, or put it in 2nd, it will spin but only reluctantly and again with sad sounds. The drum was tight going on so I'm hoping it's just a brake issue. Maybe my long broken E-brake cable has turned on me, or just a cylinder fail. The diff seems to be rotating smoothly and quietly. I'll do some research and take apart the right side. Again.
 
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