Smirnof, here's what I did to get my rear tailgate window working on my 1990 4Runner.
• Bought a motor from a driver's side 1991 Camry. Doesn't matter if it's front or rear; both motors are the same. You will have to swap off the pigtail from the old motor, but that's not a big deal to swap. I highly recommend either repinning the connections or soldering the connections and heat shrinking them.
• I pulled the window and the regulator out of the tailgate. I carefully wirewheeled the guides on the window and coated them with white lithium grease. With the window set aside, I took the regulator and carefully wirewheeled any contact areas to remove oxidation. Those same areas got white lithium grease as well.
• With the tailgate open and the window/motor/regulator removed, I cleaned out the window channel guides with silicone spray and a half dozen Q-tips. Some people will coat that with lithium grease but I only use that for metal. Silicone spray should suffice.
• (Optional 1) I took the chrome trim off the tailgate interior where the window comes out and cleaned up the seal. Over time, that seal will catch dirt and grime which keeps it from compressing when the window pulls up. It will effectively drag the window on the way up and slow it down, which is why some people will notice the window rolls up quickly until the last 1/3 of the trip.
• (Optional 2) I took the controller for the window [located behind the left storage compartment in the inside of the left quarter panel], removed it, took off the bracket/cover, desoldered the 4 relays and replaced them with ones that allow a little more juice to power the window. If you need a part number for the relays, shoot me a PM. There is ample room on the board to place a soldering iron and a solder sucker/solder wick, so it's hard to mess up. FYI: A new controller from Toyota is over $300. I fixed mine for less than $7.
The result is a window that rolls up in less than 4 seconds with the engine on and less than 5 with the engine off.
Sorry so long...
