97 Limited w/ 218k miles and a big list of issues...what to do?

Here's what it should cost you if were to do the work yourself. These are all very simple fixes, with plenty of DIY documentation.

1.) $39.99 poly bushings + $70 for alignment.

2.) $25 valve cover gasket

3.) $500 steering rack from Safari

4.) $120 for drum kit, $7 for oil seal

5.) $193 for OEM inner CV joint

6.) $90 for new Bilstein 5100


There, we just fixed your whole truck for $1045. Doing the work yourself pays!

Put the money you'd save into a small beater car to get parts and drive when your 4runner is down. I'm partial to small VW TDI's :D



this ^^^^ is the way to go. Investing in a few tools, wrench lubricant (beer) and time and you can do this your self.
 
curious what shop you took your 4runner to? i'm new to 4runners and the site as well but was recently referred to 2 different shops by a friend. i'm also in the denver area. toy care care and another off jordan road south of arapahoe. i don't recall the name right now.

i would be interested in learning a few things and giving you a hand but i'm out of town the next 2 weekends and at least part of it sounds like you want to get fixed. most of the things i have worked on are older and i would prefer to do some of the work myself as it saves $$$
 
This is all normal for this amount of miles. I have replaced all that you mentioned and some. Just the life of having a high mileage car. If you dont want to do the work or dump the money then you might have to buy another vehicle. But remember if its used with miles you will have the same issues.

Just put that AOR bumper money into the parts and do the work.
 
Just in case anyone reads this and feels like they're in a similar boat, all hope is not lost.

A few things happened:

1.) Finally left the crappy underpaid/overworked job I had for way too long, and I got to cash out my 2 weeks of vacation.

2.) Had 3 weeks before starting my new job (that doubled my old salary!), so I decided to roll up the sleeves and get to work. Since I didn't have to worry about having my car down for a few days, I wasn't as worried about screwing things up and not being able to get to work.

I invested in some more tools (floor jack capable of lifting my lifted Runner, an electric impact wrench from HF, etc.) and started ordering parts. I was able to do the CVs no problem because I was able to just drive over to CVJ and do the core deposit deal and buy some reman'd ones. That was $266 a side at the shop and both sides were shot, so about $400 in labor saved there.

I did the valve cover gasket job. It took two days the first time (yes...the first time) because I was cleaning and replacing other things along the way, and trying to really take my time to make sure I was labeling hoses correctly and not damaging anything else. The second time took 6 hours, but that was a $400 estimate at the shop and didn't include any of the other things I did along the way (plugs, throttle body/MAF cleaning, replacing plastic wire harnesses, etc.)

So, I saved $800 in labor...easily, and learned a crap ton. I am really less intimidated by bigger maintenance tasks, especially after the valve cover job. I was staring at my engine the first night thinking "Oh god, what the hell did I do!?!" and then I started her up after I was all done and said "Hell yeah!".

I had the shop replace the struts. I was able to get a discount on a new set of Bilstein 5100s (for the Tacoma), and the shop was OK installing ones I sourced. So, for $220, I didn't have to figure out how to pull the coilovers out and take them somewhere without a car and have them disassemble the old ones, swap over the coils, and reassemble the new ones (for a price of course). I also wanted them to do the other LCA bushing while they were in the front suspension area, but they couldn't get the parts in time before I leave for a trip to Jackson Hole on Saturday, so I had them do the rear axle seal and brake shoes instead. In hindsight, I realize that might have been the easier of the two jobs, but I'll take on the LCA bushing at some point.

I feel pretty good about it. Thanks for the help and encouragement, everybody! I'm going to take that money I saved and apply it towards some new rubber (Duratracs...duh). Eventually I'm going to take it to a local body shop and have them make her look pretty again inside and out. Then, a bumper and winch, and some new LED trail lights, and some new rims, on and on and on she'll go!
 
Last edited:
You have made some good progress.

When you tackle the rear axle seals, if you haven't already, make sure to buy a new breather from the dealer.
 
1.) Both LCA bushings need to be replaced ($495 each side).

$495 a side? wow.

Others have already commented on the cost of a bushing kit. If you need avoid pressing bushings, then another alternative is to buy an entirely new LCA with bushings already installed (more expensive than the bushing kit, but still considerably cheaper than what your shop wants). Camelback has them for $175/side.
 
Last edited:
There's a lot of padding in that quote IMO.

As far as the steering rack goes, there's no way in hell I'd replace the whole rack. I'd clean it up, slap a new boot on it, and drive it. Have you been having to add power steering fluid recently? I'm guessing probably not, since you weren't aware there was anything wrong under there, so the seal probably isn't bad. Even if it is, the failure mode is going to be leaking power steering fluid, and not something that would be dangerous.

For the amount you're paying a shop to deal with the control arm bushings you could probably just buy the whole assembly and replace it yourself. The struts aren't a big deal either and you could do those while you're at it.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,125
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top