'98 4runner check engine light on and intermittently vibrates at idle

arianne

New member
UPDATE: CEL code read as P0125



Hi, I've been reading some threads of similar check engine light on and shaking, but I feel like there might be something else going on due to our recent electrical issues.

There has been no issues since the beginning of this week, so I will post the history of issues.

Day 1 - drove three 0.2 mile trips to, from and back to the local walgreens. Got back in the car, the engine sounded like it tried to turn over but never made it.

Day 2 - had someone jump start the car. The car drove fine for 1.5 miles, then the battery light came on, the turn signal would cause the RPMs to drop. Managed to drive it to the nearby toyota dealership where it died in the parking lot. Toyota said the alternator was bad, so we had it replaced.

Day 4 - Got the car back from Toyota, drove 0.1 mile and the battery light came back on. Went to two different mechanics who said the battery tested good, but the alternator was putting out low (12-12.5v). Took it back to Toyota.

Day 5 - Toyota said alternator tested fine, but after a lot of stress, tests and retests, they claimed the indicator light for the battery inside the alternator was bad, so they will replace it.

Day 6 - Got the car back the 2nd time from Toyota. I started the car, and it was vibrating/shaking intermittently at idle. Drove 0.1 mile and the check engine light came on (solid, not blinking).


Any ideas? It would be greatly appreciated.
 
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You need to read the codes dude and you would be best off if you can do it yourself.

I'd recommend buying an OBD-2 code scanner BlueTooth transmitter from Amazon for $29.99 and downloading the Torque App.

Other Questions:
Is there a loss of power?
Is it getting hot?
 
Thanks for the recommendation. Thinking of ordering the ELM 327 Bluetooth scanner (Amazon.com: ELM 327 Bluetooth Obdii Obd2 Diagnostic Scanner, Elm327 Wireless OBD 2 Scan Tool Check Engine Light CAR Code Reader: Automotive)


The car didn't have any trouble getting to 45 mph for the 3 mile drive home. There was no noticeable loss of power
The temperature gauge was just above half

As BrianSD_42 said, get a BT ODB2 transmitter and Torque ($5) or whatever other app you like. Something like this will allow you to monitor engine variables real time while driving. New ELM327 V1 5 Mini Bluetooth ODB2 Car Auto Torque Diagnostic Scanner Tool STGG | eBay

And yeah that sounds Too Hot especially for a only a 3 mile drive! Luck...
 
hmm sounds like a intermittent misfire, but like brian said, you would need to get the code/s read. If it is a p0300 which indicates random misfire or p0301-p0306 which is specific cylinder misfire information it could be a variety of things.
 
Yes, the temperature was at least on the halfway mark, a bit above

Had the code read at AutoZone today, P0125

Will check the coolant level and update
 
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Yes, the temperature was at least on the halfway mark, a bit above

Had the code read at AutoZone today, P0125

Will check the coolant level and update

First check your coolant level when engine cold obviously, but make sure you actually check the level in the radiator itself not just the coolant overflow resivour. You can also have this happen when you get air in the cooling system, as a air bubble can develop around the coolant temp sensor, therefore showing a false reading.
 
If it is a misfire, then I would believe there would be other codes, not just the po125.

PO125 indicates a faulty temp sensor, but I would ask first if the o2 sensors/AF sensor are(is) original? Ever changed the thermostat as well?
 
I'd follow the FSM P0125 procedure. Note that it never even mentions the temp sensor. It's slightly different if you have '00 and earlier Federal emissions as there is O2 sensor instead of A/F.
 

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