'98 4Runner Steering Issues: New Rack or ITRE's and Rack Bushings?

TheFriZ

TheFriZ

New member
Hey guys, I recently purchased a 1998 4runner SR5 3.4 4x4 to replace my 1994 Land Cruiser (better gas mileage, lower miles, cheaper price!!)

Any way, the truck is in GREAT shape, just 150,000 on her, New Tires, runs strong, Timing belt and water pump DONE, clean interior, etc....

I got it for a great price knowing id need to fix a few little things.

I need new front Brake Rotors, New Shocks, and the problem at hand, I need to fix the steering.

The 4runner has a bit of play in the steering, and a slight pop when you move the steering wheel back and forth. On braking, I have a pretty good wobble, partially because the brake rotors are warped, and obviously, partially because I either have a bad Inner Tie Rod, or a bad Steering rack. The truck tracks straight, and drives good, just feels a little unsettled on the highway. The front shocks are blown all to hell..

Now I have been doing some reading to aid in my diagnosis, and this is what I know about my truck so far:
1. The Bushings that hold the rack to the truck are tired, I can see deflection when I move the wheel back and forth on the big bushing that wraps around the rack and pinion on the passenger side. Obviously, that's not a big deal, I can get a Bushing Kit for about $25.00 bucks, Poly or Rubber. What do you guys prefer? Poly bushings or OEM Rubber bushings? Raybestos makes a kit for $25.00 but Ihave seen tons of others as well. What is everyone's favorite?

2. The Outer Tie Rod Ends are brand new on both sides.

3. The Tires are Brand new Goodyear Tracker 2 265/70/16 All terrains and are properly balanced. Brand spanking new.. blue lettering and all....

4. WHen I lift the truck up and try to move the passenger side wheel back and forth, I don't feel any play, leading me to believe the Inner tie rod on the side doesn't have any issues.

5. When I do the same thing on the driver side, that is where I feel the clunk/pop/play. NOW, I cant tell whether it is the Inner Tie Rod, or whether it is that Bearing(I think it's a roller bearing), or whatever it is where you have the adjustment on the racks that I have seen in write-ups. I had found a good write up on Ih8mud I believe but my computer died and I lost it and for some reason cant seem to find it. ANYWAY, when I have someone move the wheel back and forth, and I pull the ITRE boot back, I can see the rod having play, and actually not only moving in and out, but up and down. Now, could this be adjustment with that big adjustment bolt? Or could it be the inner rod end? OR is do I need a full steering rack? My mechanic seemed to think I would probably need a rack. Video of this below.

6. My steering rack does NOT LEAK. I don't have any fluid in the boots, etc....


7. My front shocks are blown all to hell, so I am ordering KYB MonoMax Heavy duty Shocks for the Front and Rear. $220.00 from Amazon.


8. My Rotors are so warped that I would imagine they are throwing it a little off balance, but that fix is obviously no big deal :D

Ok, so I will be getting Rotors, Pads and Shocks obviously.
Now for the steering I already KNOW I need:
1. Steering Rack Bushings
2. PROBABLY new Inner Tie Rods (ill do both while im at it.)

What I am trying to figure out is if this play can be adjusted out, or if I need to buy a new assembly for that adjustment nut, or if I need to just buy a whole new rack.

Here is the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyJlGfsogc4

Any help is appreciated, I'm ready to order parts and get this thing fixed. Like I said the tires are brand new, so I want to make sure I don't destroy them :D

Thanks Guys,
Brian.
 
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Looks like you have the old style steering rack guide, which is what you're referring to as the adjustment nut. The guides are known to wear out, and some people have had success in eliminating some steering play/slop by changing them out. I would give that a try first. Simple and inexpensive fix.
 
1st. I would try to tighten up the rack inside.

2nd. I would would replace both inner tie rod ends. If you dont wheel often you should be fine with some aftermarket auto part store units. The one on that side has to be bad if its got that much slop.

3rd. If its still sloppy replace the rack.
 
At that mileage, I'd replace the lower ball joints too. If they let go it can be seriously disastrous!
 
Thanks Guys, Yes, the Guide is what I was referring to.
I have seen Cardone Steering Racks for about $320 or so. I have heard of decent experiences with these. I normally am pretty OCD about getting OEM parts though. I have read that I would expect to pay around $580 for a Toyota Rack, plus core charges of course, but I'm not sure that is totally accurate. I do know that with my FZJ80, I spent A LOT of money on OEM parts, and I never regretted it. The only things I didn't use OEM parts for were the Suspension (TJM Lift kit), the Radiator (got an all metal one that was WAY better than OEM) and lastly, the starter (because OEM was OUTRAGEOUS, and I was able to get a Cold Weather Starter[2.2kw vs 1.4kw) which was an improvement for the truck and I never had a problem out of it).

With Racks, Obviously OEM would be Ideal, has anyone else had any luck with any specific aftermarket remans??? It looks simple enough to change out, which makes something with a lifetime warranty at least SEMI useful... but obviously, it's never fun having stuff break.

The Steering Guide, where is the best place to get the replacement part for that? I usually bought my FZJ80 parts from a Toyota Dealer in Georgia that would give 10% discounts to IH8MUD members, so I guess I will look there. Is OEM the best move, or are aftermarket companies making improved parts?

I had planned to go on and change both Inner Tie Rods anyway since they wont come with the rack, and since it has brand new Outer Tie Rods on it.

Thanks for the Recommendation about the Lower Ball Joints, they are solid, but I can see some funk around them like they have lost some grease likely. I haven't looked for a Zerk fitting to see if they were Greasable yet, but I would guess that they are not. Since I'm going to have to have the Springs and Shocks out when I replace the shocks, and I will be doing the steering fixes, I imagine I will go on and replace those since I will be needing an alignment anyway.

I do wheel, my goal with this is more of an expedition build, but I definitely want it to be able to conquer what I throw at it. My Jeep will articulate until it drops springs out of the bucket, which I know the front of this wont do, but I will make up for it in the rear. I imagine I will be able to get it set to be as capable as my Land Cruiser was fairly easy. A Lift is down the road though. The tires on it are too new to toss, so im just going to get soe OEM length MonoMax KYB shocks for the time being and ride it at stock height.

Here is my Jeep :D just for fun


She has a 3 link, ARB Air Locker, 4.88s, 6.5 of lift... etc.... etc... LOL sadly I guess I need to sell her...
 
TheFriZ said:
Thanks Guys, Yes, the Guide is what I was referring to.
I have seen Cardone Steering Racks for about $320 or so. I have heard of decent experiences with these. I normally am pretty OCD about getting OEM parts though. I have read that I would expect to pay around $580 for a Toyota Rack, plus core charges of course, but I'm not sure that is totally accurate. I do know that with my FZJ80, I spent A LOT of money on OEM parts, and I never regretted it. The only things I didn't use OEM parts for were the Suspension (TJM Lift kit), the Radiator (got an all metal one that was WAY better than OEM) and lastly, the starter (because OEM was OUTRAGEOUS, and I was able to get a Cold Weather Starter[2.2kw vs 1.4kw) which was an improvement for the truck and I never had a problem out of it).

With Racks, Obviously OEM would be Ideal, has anyone else had any luck with any specific aftermarket remans??? It looks simple enough to change out, which makes something with a lifetime warranty at least SEMI useful... but obviously, it's never fun having stuff break.

The Steering Guide, where is the best place to get the replacement part for that? I usually bought my FZJ80 parts from a Toyota Dealer in Georgia that would give 10% discounts to IH8MUD members, so I guess I will look there. Is OEM the best move, or are aftermarket companies making improved parts?

I had planned to go on and change both Inner Tie Rods anyway since they wont come with the rack, and since it has brand new Outer Tie Rods on it.

Thanks for the Recommendation about the Lower Ball Joints, they are solid, but I can see some funk around them like they have lost some grease likely. I haven't looked for a Zerk fitting to see if they were Greasable yet, but I would guess that they are not. Since I'm going to have to have the Springs and Shocks out when I replace the shocks, and I will be doing the steering fixes, I imagine I will go on and replace those since I will be needing an alignment anyway.

I do wheel, my goal with this is more of an expedition build, but I definitely want it to be able to conquer what I throw at it. My Jeep will articulate until it drops springs out of the bucket, which I know the front of this wont do, but I will make up for it in the rear. I imagine I will be able to get it set to be as capable as my Land Cruiser was fairly easy. A Lift is down the road though. The tires on it are too new to toss, so im just going to get soe OEM length MonoMax KYB shocks for the time being and ride it at stock height.

Here is my Jeep :D just for fun


She has a 3 link, ARB Air Locker, 4.88s, 6.5 of lift... etc.... etc... LOL sadly I guess I need to sell her...
Click to expand...

It doesnt madder how good the ball joints feel or look. They are known to fail around 150k miles especially with lift installed. If over 120k miles I would replace them. I just spent 5 hours two weeks ago replacing ball joints, tie rod ends and some other not needed stuff on buddys truck because his lower ball joint failed tire coming off at 150k mileage. I also have had this happen but was at 200k mileage. They are not greaseable.

All parts oem are going to be best. I spent $350 on a NEW Toyota Steering Rack and Gear Box rack and the ITRE's where bad as soon as I got it. Which I didnt relize for months and trying to figure out why it was loose. Also there customer service sucks, wont answer my calls or emails. I installed me old 200k mile ITRE's and its solid as a rock now. Did notice when replacing them that the rack already has a small leak. Next time I will go used oem with low mileage or try to afford the OEM because of these issues.

I have bought oem for all parts other than the rack and next time I will spend the extra $200 on oem. You can also look up Safari LTD, they make a rack they claim is better than oem.
 
Last edited:
Well, I found an OEM Toyota Rack for $511.60 with no core charge

OR

I found one from the Rack Doctor for $264.95 AFTER core.
Toyota 4 Runner Rack And Pinion

Any experience with Rack Doctor? out of curiosity.

At that price, Im thinking OEM is the way I will go. But I am curious. Im just thinking I would have $250 in replacing the Inner Tie Rods and The Rack Guide.... I'm already halfway there... and a new rack will come with ITRE's and obviously the rack guide...
 
TheFriZ said:
Well, I found an OEM Toyota Rack for $511.60 with no core charge

OR

I found one from the Rack Doctor for $264.95 AFTER core.
Toyota 4 Runner Rack And Pinion

Any experience with Rack Doctor? out of curiosity.

At that price, Im thinking OEM is the way I will go. But I am curious. Im just thinking I would have $250 in replacing the Inner Tie Rods and The Rack Guide.... I'm already halfway there... and a new rack will come with ITRE's and obviously the rack guide...
Click to expand...

Post up the URL of the $511 OEM rack, if you don't mind.
 
I ordered the new steering rack today, and my new shocks and a rear coil spacer should be arriving today as well

So far I ordered
KYB MonoMax Shocks/Struts Front and Rear
Daystar Rear Coil Spacer (to fix the sag)
OEM Toyota Steering Rack.

The truck has brand new outer tie rod ends, so no worries on those.
Im going to the Pick and Pull today hopefully to pick up some Tundra Calipers if I can find any.
After that I will be ordering some Rotors and Pads.
I also need to pick up some Steering Rack Bushings and some Lower Ball Joints (just for peace of mind).

I ordered the Rack from a Toyota Dealer in Massachusetts.
it was about $536 after shipping.
Rack And Pinion Steering Pinion Shaft/Steering, Gear, Pump and Related Components for 1998 Toyota 4Runner
 
Looks like Amazon is my friend again (that's where I bought the shocks and coil spacers)
Moog Lower Ball Joints (left and right)
and
Energy suspension Graphite impregnated (black) steering rack bushings

shipped to my door in two days for the low price of $115 :D
 
I'm not trying to derail this thread but I am planning on doing an overhaul of my front end soon with all oem parts. So I called the dealer up and asked for pricing on multiple parts but to my surprise inner tie rods are not sold by toyota. They have to sell you a whole rack assembly... I know they are changeable and I can buy them at a lot of other places, so my question is what is a good brand to go with since oem is not an option?
 
I have read on other forums, mostly american made vehicles, that moog is a good quality brand. But on this 4runner forum I have read some bad things when related to moog lower ball joints so I was going to trying to stay away from them and stick with oem. I guess failure of an inner tie rod is not as sever as a lbj
 
at half the price, im absolutely thinking about it. I have ran Moog parts on my jeep for years, and they have taken a beating. The Jeep is locked, geared, and spends it's days crawling over rocks....

However, I am reading and seeing some pretty sketchy stuff about the LBJs.....

damn... $$$$$$
 
Last edited:
Is it really an upgrade to use Tacoma LBJs? or is it safe to say that new, OEM 4runner LBJs are the best bet?
I want to get them ordered ASAP... so I can do all of this at once...
 
There isn't really a benefit to using the Taco parts, and they actually increase your turning radius. Stick with the OEM 4runner parts and you'll be good do go.
 
Thanks for the help everyone
Parts have all arrived or have shipped out and will be here Monday/Tuesday

KYB Monomax Shocks front and rear
Energy Suspension Graphite Impregnated Steering Rack Bushings
OEM Toyota Steering Rack w/ Inner Tie Rod Ends
OEM Toyota Lower Ball Joints
Daystar Rear Coil Spacers

and now just to find the best price on some Tundra Calipers and Rotors and this 4Runner will be Good to GO!!!

oh yea.. and a new Fan Clutch... Im actually pretty stoked to get this fixed... I'm turning a SOLID 19mpg Highway, 17mpg City with the AC running and running 80mph on the highway... Im excited to see the improvement once the fan isn't turning hard at all times....
 
SO im working on this steering rack and cannot find a good write up, obviously, some of it is self explanatory, but im trying to figure out which bolts to disconnect to disconnect the steering column from the rack... im also trying to figure out what the best way is to go about removing the poser steering lines.... access to them in place is extremely tight.....

Problem two... I tore a boot on a perfectly good, 555, outer tie rod end.... im trying to find another out tie rod end boot to save a good rod end...

Any help is greatly appreciated. It's pretty urgent too!!!
 
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