98 SR5 - The "Dirt Duster" build

I'm not sure how I'm not subscribed to this thread...such a sweet build!!

Thanks man, I'm always lurking your thread looking for good ideas!

One day I am going to go up there by her parents cause they own a gravel pit and I wanna take the 4R in there especially after it rains. She knows where you are. Just the slightest rain makes the roads hard to drive.......Can`t wait!! :rockon:

Sounds like fun! Let me know if you ever make it up this way.

My thread has been seriously lacking updates lately, but at least put some good thought into this upcoming season today and what I really NEED to accomplish.

It was a super nice day today and actually felt like spring so I:
- Vacuumed the truck thoroughly and tackled a couple little minor projects.
- Pulled my rear rear seat bottoms out in preparation for CAMPING SEASON!!!
- fixed some minor scratches and will be doing a real wax tomorrow. The truck is needing it BAD after the winter paint abuse.

My GOALS for this summer with the truck as far as "mods" go:
- Install my LED's that are on order
- re-work my sleeping platform with more cargo tie-downs and new paddle latches. (Will post some updates of this in my sleeping platform build when the time comes)
- Possibly integrate my Coleman stainless steel cooler into the platform so I stop having to remove it every time we stop and set up camp. I'd like to almost hard-mount it in the truck and then replace it with an ARB fridge one day
- Make a platform above where the factory tire jack sits, so that my dogs have a larger more useable space that extends to the backs of the front seats. (remember, my seat bottoms stay out of the truck for the whole spring/summer/fall)
- I will be removing my rear bumper and roof rack and getting them sand-basted and re-sprayed with a fresh coat of black
- LR UCA's
- Gas tank skid, probably a Lil-Skips.
- I'd also like to do a snorkel if money permits.

I was originally planning on doing a custom swing-out this year on the rear bumper but I've decided it's not high enough on my priority list right now. I've made my truck work pretty well the last 3 years without a swing out so I figure I can last at least one more season without it. I actually kind of like the looks without one also, but they are just so damn practical. I'd rather put the money elsewhere ATM. It will happen... but not yet.

After the above list is completed, I'll probably let my Cruiser envy take over and start hunting for one of them or start collecting parts for 35's. Wow, what a super-hypothetical post! Oh well, I'm bored and I thought I'd share.
 
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That summer list looks legit! I'm stoked to see 35s on your truck if it happens.

Are you looking at getting an 80 series cruiser?
 
That summer list looks legit! I'm stoked to see 35s on your truck if it happens.

Are you looking at getting an 80 series cruiser?

Me too!!!

I dont know what I'll do yet. The 4Runner has been great, my favorite vehicle that I've ever owned. However, I do always wish I had a bit more space. Mostly cause I'm a big dude and long trips in the 4Runner can get uncomfortable. I have goals of heading to Alaska, Baja, Moab, etc. etc. in the next 5 years and I just feel like a little more space might be a good thing. Selling the 4Runner and starting over will hurt my piggy bank though....

IF I pull the trigger on another "play" vehicle it will most likely be a FZJ80/LX450/HDJ80 or I may even hold on to the 4Runner a little while and jump to a LX470 in a few years. Time will tell.

I have my eye on some IS300 seats at a local junkyard, I was thinking they might be a nice refreshment for the 4Runner's cockpit.
 
Sorry we are still in the works for WA. I'm really hoping so but need a few things to ome together in the next month. I'll keep you posted for sure... I was actually just talking about this with my GF last night. I wanna hit up Evans Creek and such so bad!

That backcountry route looks deadly and I am positive that I would enjoy it. Just might not be able to swing that much time away in the States. When were you thinking of running it?

You should make a loop, come through Yellowstone, and we can meet up! Then you can go up, and go home through Glacier. Would give you some KILLER photo opps.
 
Ha, all kidding aside... Sorry I didnt get back to you in so long - no exact plans. It was merely just an idea at this point, but we will run it sometime this summer hopefully. We will likely time it with the weather.

Glacier is amazing, but it might seem like the same looks of BAMF to you. Yellowstone is awesome for seeing the wildlife, but no where near the scenery as Glacier.

Farmer - where are you at? I used to live in Bozo while going to school.
 
So I've got a quick question for all of you S/C'd folks... ok, maybe it's not quick. I would search but I honestly don't have the time or energy right now to sift through all the information I need to get a good answer. I have the possibility of picking up a 2nd Gen TRD Supercharger installed on a 3.4L motor out of a rolled 01 Tacoma. I can score the motor and S/C for $500+fuel to pick it up. So say I can get it to my door for $650. Seems like a super awesome deal but the seller is kind of vague and the truck has approx 120K miles and the S/C was installed "near new". I don't know if the motor ran before it was pulled out of the wreck. And the truck/motor/SC is a solid 8 hours away.

- Is this going to end up being a money pit and not worth the time/effort? Would I throw the S/C on and HOPE it works properly? I'm assuming I would need to buy some sort of gasket kit and a couple other new items to even install it on my engine. Sorry for my ignorance on the topic, this sale has been sprung on me and normally would have done my homework first...

- Has anyone rebuilt the S/C here themselves? Can parts be sourced? In my QUICK search I saw something about the Toyota install kit "not being available" anymore. I also don't want to spend $1000 to ship it to Magnuson or something, have it rebuilt, and ship it back.

- Leads me to this... how reliable are the 2nd gen S/C's? IF the S/C has 120K miles on it, would it be "due" for maintenance typically?

- Do I have enough information to be able to even make a good decision? I know it's cheap but in the long run, if I am going to have to get it rebuilt and end up spending $1500+ on the package, I'd rather wait for a clean one with more info and save myself the headaches.

Just looking for your input SC guys, and those of you who HAVE done your research on the subject, which I clearly have not. I need to decide by Sunday but I've got a super busy weekend ahead of me....

Thanks!!!!
 
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I would say go for it. yes several of us have rebuilt 1st gen SCs but the process should be identical for a second gen. You will love the power but realize that you will need fuel management at some point if you want to build real power and a Trans upgrade, but totally worth it. :high5: But you can run with nothing more than a fuel pressure regulator and not have a problem, mine had 165k of supercharged miles before I rebuilt the charger, motor and added URD 7th injector with small pulley. Now even more fun.


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-top-eaton-m62-complete-rebuild-write-up.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116833-1st-gen-supercharger-nose-cone-rebuild-mod.html
 
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Ah Rockdawg beat me to it, I was gonna post those.

Thats an awesome deal Addison! And for just a couple bills and some elbow grease you can have a well running system for sure.

I made a post in the buyers guide (albeit incomplete) about superchargers. Links to lots of replacement parts you may need.
 
Alright Addison, open WIIIIIIIIDE, because I'm going to spoon feed you some info.

Earlier this week, I was considering buying a S/C I found on my local Craigslist, so I had to do all of this research to figure out whether or not it was worth my money/time. If you're curious, here's the ad for the S/C I was looking at:

1996-2004 Toyota Tacoma Supercharger

I drove an hour each way to check it out and found it was missing some hard to find parts, and needed a thorough re-build before I would even consider running it on of my own vehicles. I offered the guy $450 and he passed on the offer.

Before you consider moving forward, I would recommend that you start by reading the installation manual for the S/C, which is available for download here:

Tech Knowledgebase - Installation Manual for TRD 3.4L V6 Supercharger

Familiarize yourself with the process, and study the parts list. It will reveal everything that you need to install the S/C, and help you to ask the right questions as you try to figure out whether or not it's worth an 8 hour drive.

Now let's dig into that parts list a little bit. I've copied the ESSENTIAL items that you will need below:

Parts List:

1 Supercharger
1 Supercharger Belt
1 Gasket, 3.4 S/C (Between Factory Throttle Body and TRD Supercharger)
1 Template for cutting timing belt cover (Link to a copy of the template > https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByJ...MxYy00OWQ2LTk4NTAtMTlkZmE2YzI3YWRk/edit?pli=1 )

Dynamic Tensioner

1 Assembly, Tensioner Plate and Pully (dynamic tensioner & mounting bracket)
1 Bolt, 10 x 1.25 x 70mm Flat Head (Used to attach the tensioner bracket)
1 Bolt, 10 x 1.25 x 135mm Hex Head (Used to attach the tensioner & bracket)

1 Washer, 10mm Flat bolt
1 Wire Loom Relocation Bracket
1 Dipstick Relocation Bracket

1 6 X 1.0 X 12mm Bolt, Flange Head (for dipstick relocation bracket)
1 6mm Flat Washer (for dipstick relocation bracket)

Hose, Connector and Hardware Kit

1 1/8” Vacuum Plug 2001 and newer Tacoma only w/Drive by wire throttle body
1 3/8” Vacuum Plug Intake Silencer Plug
1 Vacuum Hose – ½” X 34” long Connects Air Tube to Cam cover
1 Vacuum Hose - 3mm x 9" long Connects Vacuum Throttle Opener to Intake Manifold
1 Vacuum Hose - 3mm x 5" long Connects Vacuum Throttle Opener to Intake Manifold
2 Hose Clips, Black Plastic Retains Evaporative Canister Hose to Throttle Cable
1 Vacuum Adaptor Tee- 4WD only See Hose Routing Schematic Figure B
1 Valve, IAC Check, Installed near IAC Valve
1 Spacer, Manifold Support Bracket, Installed between manifold & factory support bracket, driver side

1 Bolt, 8 X 1.25 X 35mm Flange Head, Used to Secure factory support bracket thru spacer to S/C Manifold
1 Bolt, Hex, 8 x 1.25 x 170 w/10mm Wrench Flat, Installed through the top of supercharger to the Factory manifold
4 Socket Head Cap Screws, 8 x 1.25 x 65mm Attaches Throttle Body to TRD S/C Manifold

4 Washer, 8mm Flat 1 per Socket Head Cap Screw Used to attach Throttle Body to TRD S/C Manifold
1 Bracket, Accelerator and Transmission Cable Used on all applications except 4WD, Manual-Transmission Tacoma
1 Bracket, Accelerator Cable 4WD MT Tacoma Only Used on 4WD, Manual-Transmission Tacoma only
1 Bracket, Throttle Cable 2001 and newer 4Runner only w/Drive by Wire Throttle Body

2 Bolt, Hex, 6 x 1.0 x 12mm Used to attach Throttle Cable Brackets to S/C Manifold
2 Washer, Flat, 6mm Used with bolts to attach Throttle Cable Brackets to S/C Manifold

The items listed in RED will be difficult or impossible to find at your local hardware store. Especially the two tensioner bolts, the 8x1.25x170mm bolt, the manifold support bracket, and the 3 brackets listed near the bottom. There are 3 brackets included in the kit because different ones are used for different applications. The bracket used on a '98 will not be the same as the bracket used on an '01, so TRD includes all three. If you buy the S/C second hand it may not include the correct bracket for your application. These brackets are used to secure your throttle/trans kickdown cables to the S/C.

Now, you could fabricate the bracket that you need along with the spacer and the Dipstick/Wire Loom relocation brackets, with some time & experimentation... unless you have another vehicle that has those parts installed for reference, then it would go quickly.

In the event that you want to buy the necessary items new, you can find them for sale via the following links, at the following costs... plus shipping. At minimum you'll want a new belt, and order two so that you have one for a trail spare.

Dynamic Tensioner Kit $260, Part No. PTR29-60032 (this includes the tensioner, along with the bracket and the two bolts needed for install... this is the only route you can take to buy the two (70mm/135mm) bolts and the relocation brackets through Toyota)

TRD DYNAMIC TENSIONER 3.4 SC PTR29-60032

OR... Try this guy on TTORA, sells the bracket/bolts for $75 shipped

Dynamic tensioner bracket and bolts 3.4 tacoma - TTORA Forum

Then buy the tensioner separately for $50, Part No. PTR30-35041, and fab the relocation brackets

TRD Supercharger DYNAMIC TENSION W/ PULLEY PTR30-35041

Belt $11, Part No. PTR30-35040

TRD Supercharger Belt - V6 3.4L PTR30-35040

IAC Check Valve $6.50, Part No. PTR26-35042

http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8057

TB to S/C Gasket $8, Part No. PTR29-60030

Replacement Throttle Body Gasket TRD PTR29-60030

S/C Install Kit $166, Part No. PTR29-60020 (This includes the IAC check valve, the 170mm bolt, the spacer, vacuum caps & lines, and the three brackets... You'll still be missing the hose clips, 35mm bolt, cap screws & washers, and 6mm bolt and washer listed in the "Hose, Connector and Hardware Kit" sectin of the list) Also, note that under the picture of the kit on the RH side, there is a link labeled "Installation PDF"... this will download the S/C install manual.

Supercharger Service Parts 3.4L Install Kit PTR29-60020

If the nose cone is leaking oil, you'll want to replace it. It's much easier to replace the whole nose cone assembly than it is to try and press a new bearing/seal into the old nose cone.

Here's a writeup on that > 3.4 Supercharger Nose-Drive Replacement - CustomTacos.com Forum

Nose Cone Kit $228, Part No. PTR29-35042

3.4 4TH Gen Nose Cone Kit PTR29-35042

If you feel like saving some money and you want to rebuild the nose cone yourself, here is a thread that covers a COMPLETE rebuild of the 2nd gen Black TRD S/C:

3.4l TRD Supercharger rebuild - Tacoma World Forums

In the end, the biggest risk I see is the 16 hours of your time it would take to drive there and back to check it out. If you get there and it's not what you thought it was, that's alot of wasted time. I'd say that you need to ask quite a few more questions of the seller before you spend the time driving down there to check it out.

With 120K miles on it, there is a high probability that the nose cone will be leaking, and even if it's not you may want to replace it as preventative maintenance. I believe the recommended interval on those is about 100K. At the bare minimum, you'll need to change the oil on the nose cone.

Oil change kit, Part No. PTR29-35043 > TRD Oil Change Kit 3.4L V6 supercharger (black) PTR29-35043

Without actually hearing the S/C operate on a running engine, it will be very difficult to assess the condition of the bearings in the nose cone and at the rear of the S/C. You can give the pulley a spin and see if it feels smooth, but thats about it. If the rotors have a good seal on them, you should actually hear, and be able to feel with your bare hand, the S/C pump air out of the outlet ports.

Let me know if you have other questions.

PS > The real cost that you should be worried about is the rabbit hole of add-ons that you're going to want to buy once you get the S/C on your 4Runner. URD 7th, IPT VB, Headers, 2.2 Pulley, instrumentation, tuning equipment, etc, etc. That's the part that really adds up. It's like Pizza....

$8 for a large cheese pizza. $2 per topping. By the time you add Pepperoni, Sausage, Green Chile, Mushrooms, Olives, Anchovies, and Bell Peppers, you've got a $22 pizza.

I'm hungry now.
 
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Ha, all kidding aside... Sorry I didnt get back to you in so long - no exact plans. It was merely just an idea at this point, but we will run it sometime this summer hopefully. We will likely time it with the weather.

Glacier is amazing, but it might seem like the same looks of BAMF to you. Yellowstone is awesome for seeing the wildlife, but no where near the scenery as Glacier.

Farmer - where are you at? I used to live in Bozo while going to school.

I live in Northern WY/Southern Montana, both states are places I like to spend a lot of time... BAMF is similar to Glacier, from what I can tell... But Yellowstone is one of those places that's on many people's bucket lists and it does have the wildlife... lots and lots of buffalo! haha

Addison: that would be one sick deal of a SC if it works! Good luck on the decision!
 
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BFAD brought up some great points. Those parts in RED are hard to find as he mentioned, but if you're alright improvising and making substitutions, you can get by. The SC I bought didn't come with any of the spacers or brackets, and I had to make all of those myself.

For the dipstick relocation bracket, I merely doubled up two pieces of plumbers tape (metal), rounded the corners, painted, and bolted on. Works perfect.

The throttle and kickdown cable bracket was made just from some simple flat stock steel, painted, bolted.

Manifold support bracket spacer I found in the form of a spacer from the drawers at the hardware store that worked just fine.

I dont remember a wire loom relocation bracket? Was that the piece on the side of the SC?

IAC check valve is just a one way valve, correct? I think thats something you could make up just by sourcing parts at Oreilly's?

And for even more vague-ness, these:
1 Bolt, 10 x 1.25 x 70mm Flat Head (Used to attach the tensioner bracket)
1 Bolt, 10 x 1.25 x 135mm Hex Head (Used to attach the tensioner & bracket)
I remember reading somewhere that these are very special bolts and hard to source? I havent tried looking on mcmaster or anything, but thats just what I remember. As long as you have the mounting bracket for the tensioner, you can at least by the tensioner itself off of amazon fairly cheap. My original tensioner started to fail on me, and I bought a new setup through amazon, and it works perfectly.
 
ALSO - I'm still looking for one on the cheap, but if you can find a stubby, flex-head gear wrench 14mm (i think!) for the power steering tensioner, you will love that for the install! Especially if the belt breaks while out on the trail... It happened to me once and I had to put quite a few coins in the swear jar...
 
rideexileex has some good stuff for you there too. Like I was saying, you can fabricate alot of the small parts.

As far as the IAC check valve, you can buy it separately. I added in the info/link to my original post, but here it is:

TRD Replacement Check Valve - One Way (3.4 V6 S/C) PTR26-35042

Also, along ridee's train of thought, there is a substitute that can be used according to Mr. Gadget of URD, see here:

TTORA Forum - View Single Post - Supercharger check-vavle

Finally, RE those bolts, they must be sourceable from somewhere, because that guy on TTORA has found them and is selling them in his package. More research needed on that one.

BFAD brought up some great points. Those parts in RED are hard to find as he mentioned, but if you're alright improvising and making substitutions, you can get by. The SC I bought didn't come with any of the spacers or brackets, and I had to make all of those myself.

For the dipstick relocation bracket, I merely doubled up two pieces of plumbers tape (metal), rounded the corners, painted, and bolted on. Works perfect.

The throttle and kickdown cable bracket was made just from some simple flat stock steel, painted, bolted.

Manifold support bracket spacer I found in the form of a spacer from the drawers at the hardware store that worked just fine.

I dont remember a wire loom relocation bracket? Was that the piece on the side of the SC?

IAC check valve is just a one way valve, correct? I think thats something you could make up just by sourcing parts at Oreilly's?

And for even more vague-ness, these:
1 Bolt, 10 x 1.25 x 70mm Flat Head (Used to attach the tensioner bracket)
1 Bolt, 10 x 1.25 x 135mm Hex Head (Used to attach the tensioner & bracket)
I remember reading somewhere that these are very special bolts and hard to source? I havent tried looking on mcmaster or anything, but thats just what I remember.
 
Just an FYI you do not need a check valve for 2001 and 2002 4Runners without vacuum assist brakes.

He's got a '98, so he'll definitely need it.

And I know what you're talking about... in the original install manual for the S/C it states on Page 11, Step 1:

1. (Skip this step for 2001 and newer 4Runner) Cut the hose
leading to the IAC valve connector at the location shown, and insert
the kit’s one-way valve into the straight part of the hose. The black end
of the valve (see arrow, figure 25 and diagram on page 23)
is closest to the throttle body.

BUT!! according to the supplement that Toyota released for the TRD S/C Install Instructions, you actually DO need that valve on the '01-'02's.

1. Page 11, Step 1: Before this step, identify the
throttle body type. Most 2001 and later model
year 4Runner and 2003 and later model year
Tacoma and Tundra have a motorized throttle
body (Figure 1). If the vehicle being worked on
has a traditional cable-actuated throttle body,
skip to Step 5 on the next page.

2. If the vehicle being worked on has the
motorized type of throttle body, follow the gold
CAD-plated barb to the hose attached to it
(Figure 1).

3. Follow the hose and cut it in the short straight
section that runs along the back of the throttle
body (Figure 2).

4. Install the TRD-supplied one-way valve as
shown in Figure 25 on Page 11 of the
instruction manual.

I have the one way check valve installed in my '01 per the instructions in the supplement.

You can download & read the supplement via the same link I posted above for the S/C install manual:

Tech Knowledgebase - Installation Manual for TRD 3.4L V6 Supercharger
 
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My thread just got SCHOOLED, supercharger style!

Seriously though, thanks for the links and information everyone and Nick, as always another legendary and informative post. Thanks for taking the time to write that up! My mouth is still open as I try to feed myself the info and digest it all. Thanks for not search :flamethrwoer2: me. haha I know the info is out there but I just need to make a semi quick decision.

I still need to go through all of the info posted above. But shouldnt the motor have most of the brackets already installed on it? I understand that depending on the year of the engine the SC is on, I may be missing some parts for my 98'. Shouldn't all of these hard-to-source bolts already be there as the SC is still installed on the engine.

Another issue I have is being up in Canada. We don't have O'Reilly's, Macmaster, etc etc and OEM Toyota parts here are RIDICULOUSLY expensive (think your dealer MSRP + 40-60%) and we really don't have good comparable equivalent stores in my area. Every time I realize I need something, and have to order it through Toyota, I'm going to get owned. I can do a bulk order of stuff I KNOW I will need through toyotapartsales.com and head to the US to pick up the parts, but I can't be doing that every time I need one little item.

Another point - my truck runs great but has nearly 180K miles on it. Am I poking fun at disaster by force feeding air into my "old" engine.

Again, I feel like such a newb right now. Thanks for the help, love this community of 4Runner owners!
 
Didn't you say the charger is coming with an engine as well? Worst case if yours goes pop, you have the old one to install the charger on and continue to run...

Also, since it's already installed, it "should" have everything. I would still review the installation as well.

I wish I had the money for a charger. My dog just got out of surgery that would have paid for 2-3 chargers... ugh..

I also read through the rebuilding process and it doesn't seem too bad. Parts were pretty cheap too. Labour is the big one.
 
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You're welcome man. I fully expect that one day you'll make the full range of your knowledge available to me when I decide to jump into a projector retrofit. :madgrin:

If the S/C is still fully installed on the engine, then yes, everything SHOULD be there. The only thing you may run into is that it could have the old style tensioner on it versus the dynamic tensioner. If that's the case, you'll probably want to upgrade. Even if it already has the dynamic tensioner, I'd be looking at a replacement, because they do wear out.

As far as whether or not it's a good idea @ 180K, I'll let the horde attack you with opinions on that one. Short answer from me: I'd pay for a compression test and/or check for blow by. Other than that if it's been well maintained and exhibits no issues currently, I'd go for it if the deal is right.

I thought the same thing about your thread getting SCHOOLED. I may transfer these posts over to my thread for reference as well.

My thread just got SCHOOLED, supercharger style!

Seriously though, thanks for the links and information everyone and Nick, as always another legendary and informative post. Thanks for taking the time to write that up! My mouth is still open as I try to feed myself the info and digest it all. Thanks for not search :flamethrwoer2: me. haha I know the info is out there but I just need to make a semi quick decision.

I still need to go through all of the info posted above. But shouldnt the motor have most of the brackets already installed on it? I understand that depending on the year of the engine the SC is on, I may be missing some parts for my 98'. Shouldn't all of these hard-to-source bolts already be there as the SC is still installed on the engine.

Another point - my truck runs great but has nearly 180K miles on it. Am I poking fun at disaster by force feeding air into my "old" engine.

Again, I feel like such a newb right now. Thanks for the help, love this community of 4Runner owners!
 

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