99 4Runner - 4wd engages but vehicle doesn't move

kzykrn35

New member
Hello I have a 99 Hilux Surf aka 4Runner. I drive in bad conditions daily as I'm working in Africa. Have had no issues with 4wd system until yesterday.

I was in 4lo and heard some wheel bind clunking in front left side of the car. Disengaged 4wd no problem and continued driving. Then I engaged 4wd (button only) later and I heard some excessive ratcheting in the front and then disengaged no problem.

Later I engaged 4wd (button only) and then had excessive winding in transfer case and finally after a few seconds couldn't make any forward or reverse progress. Shifted down to 4HI with cdl light illuminated and could drive. Shifting to 4lo with cdl light illuminated on dash and had no problem.

Drove a bit and then decided to put into 2wd and could drive no problem. When I stopped again to put into 4wd (button only) no power to wheels but dash light illuminated.

So basically I have 4hi and lo w cdl and 2wd but when in 4wd (button only) there is nothing. But the light on dash properly illuminates through 4wd gear shifting range. Just in 4wd (button only) I have no power and grinding sounds.

Please advise!
 
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Check your front half shafts... if one breaks you lose the ability to transfer power effectively across the front wheels... I broke the driver side half shaft yesterday and it made a ratcheting sound I'm assuming I stripped the shaft splines... luckily it stayed intact, so I could drive home.
 
Check your front half shafts... if one breaks you lose the ability to transfer power effectively across the front wheels... I broke the driver side half shaft yesterday and it made a ratcheting sound I'm assuming I stripped the shaft splines... luckily it stayed intact, so I could drive home.

I think I broke the cv half shaft somewhere but I have not opened it up yet. Also so if the half shaft breaks then the whole 4wd (w/o cdl lock) system doesn't work? But when in 4hi cdl locked and 4lo cdl locked would 4wd system work or is it effectively just a 2wd vehicle? Btw I am able to drive in 2wd no issues.
 
Your symptoms sound like a broken CV axle... If one front wheel is inactive then the differential will work against you in a situation where power would xfer from side to side... CDL just ensures power to both front and rear diffs
 
i think without the diff lock, its trying to send all the power to the broken corner.
but, with the diff lock you're getting power to the rear wheels.

someone, please correct me if im wrong.
 
i think without the diff lock, its trying to send all the power to the broken corner.
but, with the diff lock you're getting power to the rear wheels.

This makes sense and hence the binding/winding sound in the tcase and grinding on front left cv area. So I will have answers tomorrow when I start to assess underneath.

Please anyone else give input though!
 
I am first to say it.

You broke your front differential. You must have broke the ring and pinion up front. You could have a broken spider gear too but not likely.


Easy to diagnosis.

CV axles don't grind, they just break. Pinion gears grind and then break.

when you put it in AWD (4x4 button in) the transfer case is sending all its power to the diff with the least resistance. Since the front diff is broken, all it is doing is spinning the front pinion gear. Thus not able to drive.

When you are in 4x4 mode (Center diff locked), power is going to the front and rear diffs equally. Since the rear diff works, you are able to drive.

When your in 2wd, the rear diff gets all the power and you are able to drive.
 
Fixed!

Well thank you all. I had a hunch that in AWD (4wd unlocked diff) that all power was going to the wheel with the least resistance. If something was broken in the CV anywhere it would spin senselessly and then hence I would hear some noise from the t-case because of the excessive power going there. 4x4 system is working flawlessly.

I opened up my front left CV and found a nice surprise. That would explain a ratcheting sound for sure.

Also, anywhere there is a bushing that touches the triangle needed to be replaced... then I thought might as well check the other side. Replaced all bushings that touched the triangle on the right. Replaced my brake pads and voila I am ready to go.

This was the first time in three years since owning the car to do this. Considering the daily roads we drive, this is quite surprisingly good.

I am glad I didn't break down behind the road being blocked as you can see the other photo below. Daily dangers of the work we do. "Welcome to the jungle!"
 

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glad you got it, and it was only the CV's.


was it making any noise prior to breaking?
they will generally click/chatter/pop when turning long before they break. this is assuming they didn't break due to being over-torqued, and instead from just being worn out.
 
glad you got it, and it was only the CV's.


was it making any noise prior to breaking?
they will generally click/chatter/pop when turning long before they break. this is assuming they didn't break due to being over-torqued, and instead from just being worn out.

Nope just click click click and then must have broken. I know I put a lot of stress on it when it did indeed break. Also it must have been worn after several years of being in service.
 
Nope just click click click and then must have broken. I know I put a lot of stress on it when it did indeed break. Also it must have been worn after several years of being in service.

Ok, Im dealing with a similar problem but could use some help. I broke my cv axle and was trying to park in the dirt next to my house. I put it in drive and nothing, reverse, nothing. Just a winding sound that ive never heard before. it was really loud and high pitched spinning with no movement. It did not sound good. Then i got it into reverse with a big clunk, drive fine to pull into the space and thats when the axle actually exploded.... Do you think theres other damage than the Cv Axle? Or does it sound like a transmission/front differential issue as well? Im wondering if I will even be able to drive it after pulling the CV just in 2wd. Thats my project after work. Wish me luck, any advice would be nice
 
Well until you actually pull it out and look at it, it is hard to tell. Usually when it blows up, you will have some discolored CV/Axle grease and be careful for shards of metal. You may want to clean, brush, dust, and then take a magnet inside the housing to pull out any shards of metal if it looks really exploded!

Also, in regards to driving the car without the CVs, never done it before, not sure I would want to. Dirt, grime, water, etc. can get into the knuckle and bushing coming from the t-case box and I wouldn't want to risk that.

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Ok, Im dealing with a similar problem but could use some help. I broke my cv axle and was trying to park in the dirt next to my house. I put it in drive and nothing, reverse, nothing. Just a winding sound that ive never heard before. it was really loud and high pitched spinning with no movement. It did not sound good. Then i got it into reverse with a big clunk, drive fine to pull into the space and thats when the axle actually exploded.... Do you think theres other damage than the Cv Axle? Or does it sound like a transmission/front differential issue as well? Im wondering if I will even be able to drive it after pulling the CV just in 2wd. Thats my project after work. Wish me luck, any advice would be nice


Um, just FYI, you CAN NOT pull the CV, and drive, unless you've done the manual hub swap.

Kinda sounds like something is up with your trans though. Shouldn't be whining and clunking into gear.
 
Um, just FYI, you CAN NOT pull the CV, and drive, unless you've done the manual hub swap.

Kinda sounds like something is up with your trans though. Shouldn't be whining and clunking into gear.

Yea I figured it was something to do with my trans with the noise and loss of power..

And Yes, FYI, you CAN drive in 2wd without a CV, ive done it before. I left both ends connected, one in the wheel/hub and the other in the diff without the axle bar and drove to a friends to replace it. Thats what im going to try first to see if I can get power to the wheels just havent had time to look yet.
 
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Yea I figured it was something to do with my trans with the noise and loss of power..

And Yes, FYI, you CAN drive in 2wd without a CV, ive done it before. I left both ends connected, one in the wheel/hub and the other in the diff without the axle bar and drove to a friends to replace it. Thats what im going to try first to see if I can get power to the wheels just havent had time to look yet.

Ok. That's not driving with out a CV. That's ripping a CV apart and plugging the holes.

Take the CV OUT, and see what happens when you drive.....
 
Ok. That's not driving with out a CV. That's ripping a CV apart and plugging the holes.

Take the CV OUT, and see what happens when you drive.....

Haha no thanks!

I guess I should have been more descriptive when I said take out the CV I just figured you would know what I was talking about since I said drive on it... Anyway, since your not offering any help or advice and your the only one getting back to me, I just need to test and see if there is anything else wrong with it. Worried it might be my diff splines since the CV was popping out..
 
Well until you actually pull it out and look at it, it is hard to tell. Usually when it blows up, you will have some discolored CV/Axle grease and be careful for shards of metal. You may want to clean, brush, dust, and then take a magnet inside the housing to pull out any shards of metal if it looks really exploded!

Also, in regards to driving the car without the CVs, never done it before, not sure I would want to. Dirt, grime, water, etc. can get into the knuckle and bushing coming from the t-case box and I wouldn't want to risk that.

Let us know how it goes.

Ill let you know what happens and see how far I get with the limited time I have to work on it. Also I wont be driving far at all just down the street to see if its drive shaft or anything else going wrong with it.
 

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