99 5 Speed Clutch Replacement Advice Needed

1200lb Marlin Crawler kit and don't look back. I also got their slightly heavier flywheel since I tow and I can say I would buy this combo again and again. They did however send me a Nachi throw out bearing for a 88-95 3.0L and I have a 3.4L 97. I had to wait for the correct bearing to arrive and I am in Ontario, Canada so that was a royal PITA.
 
Rockdawg84 said:
While 2 years ago I recommended marlin's clutch and still think they are the best behind a 22r I am in the process of doing a clutch right now. I went with LC's clutch with the dual friction disk, ceramic on one side and organic on the other. Combined it with a lightened flywheel, and Dual Transfer cases. I'm hoping that this combination will be good. Should be finished by the end of next week. and I will update you all.
Click to expand...

Are you saying the Marlin clutch wore out in two years? How many miles have you put on it? Mine's 3 years old but with only about 12,000 miles on it & I dont ride the clutch.
 
Scramble said:
Are you saying the Marlin clutch wore out in two years? How many miles have you put on it? Mine's 3 years old but with only about 12,000 miles on it & I don't ride the clutch.
Click to expand...

No that is not what I'm saying. I'm saying that with a 3.4 supercharged with 2.0 pulley that I've chosen to step up to a higher preforming clutch from the top Toyota performance company. I have run marlin super clutch exclusively in my crawlers for years and love them but for my application in my daily driver I'm stepping up. The clutch I had in my 3rd gen was a horrible e-clutch master stage 2 that couldn't hold the hp and torque that my motor was putting out. I don't ride my clutch either but my 17 year old little brother did for a week and put the final nail in its coffin, but it was slipping before that.
 
Within the last couple months I went with Marlins clutch, flywheel, bolt kit and replaced the master/slave cylinders, rear main as well. Probably overkill ...whatever, it's done now, drives great and I have zero regrets. Clutch engages quickly and there is no additional effort as others have mentioned. My vote is Marlin!
 
Rockdawg84 said:
No that is not what I'm saying. I'm saying that with a 3.4 supercharged with 2.0 pulley that I've chosen to step up to a higher preforming clutch from the top Toyota performance company. I have run marlin super clutch exclusively in my crawlers for years and love them but for my application in my daily driver I'm stepping up. The clutch I had in my 3rd gen was a horrible e-clutch master stage 2 that couldn't hold the hp and torque that my motor was putting out. I don't ride my clutch either but my 17 year old little brother did for a week and put the final nail in its coffin, but it was slipping before that.
Click to expand...

Cool,
Thanks for the clarification. Good luck with the new clutch.
 
Rockdawg84 - Is this clutch replacement on your 3rd Gen. Did you go with it because of the supercharger and 35s? I'm without the supercharger and only run 275/75/16 so I'm not sure that I need nearly the clutch grab that you do while wheeling. My understanding of the ceramic clutches is that they grab hard and are great for rock wheeling. However, I really only off-road 4-6 times each year so I'm not sure I want to deal with a very "grabby" clutch for the stop-and-go traffic I drive in every day for 30-90 minutes. I'm looking forward to when you can report back on the dual friction disk.

Rockdawg84 said:
While 2 years ago I recommended marlin's clutch and still think they are the best behind a 22r I am in the process of doing a clutch right now. I went with LC's clutch with the dual friction disk, ceramic on one side and organic on the other. Combined it with a lightened flywheel, and Dual Transfer cases. I'm hoping that this combination will be good. Should be finished by the end of next week. and I will update you all.





Click to expand...






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
gannonrt said:
Well I'm back to replacing the clutch again 4 years later. I moved this past fall and towed a far too heavy trailer with lots of maneuvering that had me feathering the clutch. End result is that is on the way out and I'm going to use an heavier duty one than stock this time. I'm also paying a friend who owns a shop to do the work since I know have 2 kids and another on the way.

A few questions for the hive mind:
1) Looking for some feedback from folks on whether or not I need to replace the flywheel and rear main seal like I did in 2012 or if I can just leave them as is. My gut would tell me that I can leave them without a problem since the first ones were stock and lasted 13 years.

2) Trying to decide between the Marlin Crawler HD clutch for $309 or the Wab Fab HD ceramic clutch for $303. Since Marlin is out of stock then it may be an easy decision. Anyone else have a reputable source for HD clutches?

3) Marlin offers some heavy duty clutch plate bolts for just a few bucks. Not sure that they are necessary but wondering if it's worth it while I'm already in there.

That's the only questions at the moment. Thanks again in advance for weighing in.
Click to expand...
wow, its worn out already? is it slipping?


I put a centerforce in my 85 10-12 years ago, still working. though, I do think its getting close to needing replaced, but it doesn't slip. however, I don't really recommend it. its too aggressive. its great offroad, but for daily road use, it gets annoying.


4 years seems to be a very short life for a clutch...
 
nevada said:
wow, its worn out already? is it slipping?


I put a centerforce in my 85 10-12 years ago, still working. though, I do think its getting close to needing replaced, but it doesn't slip. however, I don't really recommend it. its too aggressive. its great offroad, but for daily road use, it gets annoying.


4 years seems to be a very short life for a clutch...
Click to expand...



I killed my clutch towing an oversized trailer when moving from one house to another. There's was a ton of small movements to position it properly and all of that was on a slight uphill grade. In retrospect I should have done that maneuvering in low range for better control. I can't blame the clutch as much as my crappy driving.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
gannonrt said:
Rockdawg84 - Is this clutch replacement on your 3rd Gen. Did you go with it because of the supercharger and 35s? I'm without the supercharger and only run 275/75/16 so I'm not sure that I need nearly the clutch grab that you do while wheeling. My understanding of the ceramic clutches is that they grab hard and are great for rock wheeling. However, I really only off-road 4-6 times each year so I'm not sure I want to deal with a very "grabby" clutch for the stop-and-go traffic I drive in every day for 30-90 minutes. I'm looking forward to when you can report back on the dual friction disk.
Click to expand...

Yes because of the supercharger and 35's I made the choice to go big. For you I would say go OEM or Marlin. You won't need what I have but I will definitely report back. I'm waiting on a front input shaft seal for my T-Case so my mechanic can get this bad boy back together.
 
Thanks for clarifying. I assumed that was the case. I'm going to move forward with Marlin this time. Luckily, we recently purchased an Odyssey so the 4Runner is now a spare vehicle. It gives me the ability to do the work on my own time and not have to take to a shop.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
So I've had my clutch done for a couple of weeks and thought I would give an update. I LOVE THIS CLUTCH!!! It is not grabby at all and holds super strong. Long term will tell the tale but I have to say it is looking good for now.
 
Rockdawg84 said:
So I've had my clutch done for a couple of weeks and thought I would give an update. I LOVE THIS CLUTCH!!! It is not grabby at all and holds super strong. Long term will tell the tale but I have to say it is looking good for now.
Click to expand...

What does LC stand for?
 
gannonrt said:
Thanks for clarifying. I assumed that was the case. I'm going to move forward with Marlin this time. Luckily, we recently purchased an Odyssey so the 4Runner is now a spare vehicle. It gives me the ability to do the work on my own time and not have to take to a shop.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
So, how'd the marlin treat you?

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 
I want to apologize first off for not contributing to gannonrt's thread but since I don't have enough posts to start my own thread, I wanted to piggy back off this thread since I have a similar question. So I've got a '98 3RZ 2WD that might need a new clutch soon. It's got 222,900 miles on the clock and AFAIK, it's using the original clutch. Now, it doesn't slip under normal driving conditions unless I rev "match" too much on a downshift or don't let the revs drop low enough before I rengage the clutch after an upshift. I believe doing a clutch job on my specific vehicle should be a bit easier since it's a simple 2WD model. Has anyone got any tips or important info regarding a clutch job specifically for a 2WD or 3RZ model? I appreciate any feedback and thanks in advance!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 273 (members: 4, guests: 269)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,079
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top