A/C clutch not kicking on....need a little technical help to diagnose
- Thread starter bergs
- Start date
earthrealm
Senior Member
what does an a/c amplifier do?
BlackWorksInc
New member
Pretty much, it's supposed to be like the A/C module or something.
bergs
New member
Ok. Now I'm irritated. Replacement amplifier not the issue.....or I have two broken ones now. Not convinced of the latter.
This is not a knock on toyo as I realize he is not the author of it but my observation is that .pdf attached in post 19, I think, is rather misleading in that the tech is instructed basically verify the fuses and harness to which the only given option is to replace the amplifier...?
I'd like to get a copy of the codes if possible. I noticed that, once I entered the sensor test, there appears to be a code flashing (23) and I am of the understanding that this value should otherwise be 0.
The search for a solution continues...
EDIT: I've come across this a few times in searching (yes, I know, RAV4)
Had trouble attaching as a .pdf so link it is
http://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4...utomatic Air Conditioning System)/0420014.pdf
This is not a knock on toyo as I realize he is not the author of it but my observation is that .pdf attached in post 19, I think, is rather misleading in that the tech is instructed basically verify the fuses and harness to which the only given option is to replace the amplifier...?
I'd like to get a copy of the codes if possible. I noticed that, once I entered the sensor test, there appears to be a code flashing (23) and I am of the understanding that this value should otherwise be 0.
The search for a solution continues...
EDIT: I've come across this a few times in searching (yes, I know, RAV4)
Had trouble attaching as a .pdf so link it is
http://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4...utomatic Air Conditioning System)/0420014.pdf
Last edited:
bergs
New member
Confirming that my A/C is now fixed!
Basing my information of error code 23 from the RAV4 dtc's in my previous post, I located a broken wire going to the pressure sensor. The break was behind the passenger head light. Jumped those to confirm the error code then got the compressor to kick in.
:guitar3:
Now I have to yell at the shop of wasting my money!!
:boxer:
Thank you, toyo, for the guidance!!
Basing my information of error code 23 from the RAV4 dtc's in my previous post, I located a broken wire going to the pressure sensor. The break was behind the passenger head light. Jumped those to confirm the error code then got the compressor to kick in.
:guitar3:
Now I have to yell at the shop of wasting my money!!
:boxer:
Thank you, toyo, for the guidance!!
toyo
Member
Giddy up! Glad to hear you got it fixed. Auto A/C systems are really pretty basic in reality. However, sometimes they can be a pain in the ass. IMO my A/C was not getting as cold as I thought it should be. The coldest it would blow at the center vent was 44. What was interesting was it would blow 44 whether it was 88 degrees or 65 degrees outside. That's just odd. I inspected every component in the system besides the expansion valve, too hard to get at. I almost gave in and was convinced it was bad, but I was not showing the usual symptoms of a bad one thru my gauges. The only thing I could not determine with certainty was how much oil was in the system. I removed the compressor to check and low and behold not very much at all was in it. I made sure it was all drained out. I put in 1/2 of what the system calls for since you naturally have some in the system already.
Vacuumed it down, recharged and now I am down to 41 at idle and 38 with air across the condenser.
Sometimes it's the crazy stuff that does it!
Vacuumed it down, recharged and now I am down to 41 at idle and 38 with air across the condenser.
Sometimes it's the crazy stuff that does it!
BlackWorksInc
New member
You need to take the FSM's diagnostic guidelines with a grain of salt. These days the Factory Service Manual's way of diagnosing the vehicle is basically "Power, Ground, and Resistance Checks." If that doesn't work they start recommending you throw parts at the vehicle. It's not as helpful as many of us technicians would like (this tends to translate to your AllData and Mitchell since they pull from the FSM anyways.)
The best way to diagnose something is to understand how it works and use what information you have on hand (which you did in the end.) Basically when I look at a vehicle I'll take the DTC, see what the vehicle is looking for to set said DTC (because a DTC is nothing more than a test the vehicle ran and got a "fail" result for.) Once I know what the DTC is for and general idea of what the vehicle is looking for I'll check the FSM for guidelines for testing the circuit/what the circuit looks like.
We've gotten bitten in the ass a few times following the FSM to the letter at work because of how vaguely it's written. Toyota (along with every other car brand out there) is just not releasing as much information as they used to and are having us call HQ for answers (though those guys typically don't seem to know much more than we do...)
The best way to diagnose something is to understand how it works and use what information you have on hand (which you did in the end.) Basically when I look at a vehicle I'll take the DTC, see what the vehicle is looking for to set said DTC (because a DTC is nothing more than a test the vehicle ran and got a "fail" result for.) Once I know what the DTC is for and general idea of what the vehicle is looking for I'll check the FSM for guidelines for testing the circuit/what the circuit looks like.
We've gotten bitten in the ass a few times following the FSM to the letter at work because of how vaguely it's written. Toyota (along with every other car brand out there) is just not releasing as much information as they used to and are having us call HQ for answers (though those guys typically don't seem to know much more than we do...)
I have an issue with my 04 V8 Limited where I hear the compressor trying to kick in. Makes rattling sound but no cold air. I will try to bypass pressure switch when I get home and also swap out relay with fog light relay. Would that most likely be bad compressor or clutch, or could it be low pressure or bad relay?
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earthrealm
Senior Member
open ur hood, engine off and try turning the compressor clutch by hand, if its stiff/hard to turn, its most likely ur compressor is shot - zero oil, and would need to be replaced, along with ur condenser
Here is what I did:
Did diagnostic code check...no error codes
Switched clutch relay...still clicks and ac does not turn on
Twisted clutch with no power to it. Easy to turn
Applied 12v directly to clutch from battery. Cannot budge it at all.
Should I be able to turn compressor pulley with belt attached? If so, then it sounds like my compressor is toast. What do you guys think?
