A Different Type of Mod Thread: Longevity & Dependability Mods

[ThatSickRip]

Im looking more for the mods you have done for longevity and dependability, rather than lifts, performance, etc.


I apologize if there is already a thread like this, feel free to link to it. I couldnt find it myself.

 

[LordAbdullah]

Im looking more for the mods you have done for longevity and dependability, rather than lifts, performance, etc.


I apologize if there is already a thread like this, feel free to link to it. I couldnt find it myself.

personally one of my favorite mods for longevity and dependability was buying Toyota

 

[scw1991]

Keep it all stock.

 

[wingsp4n]

My general approach to longevity has been regular maintenance (fluids, grease, regular service intervals, driving with the radio off and listening for new/weird sounds) and replacing general wear parts before they completely wear out and/or break.

That being said, I'm curious to hear what others have to say. I bought my Runner with 150K miles and really want to drive it to 300K

 

[Slowgoat]

I bought a southern truck with not a lot of rust. Got an undercoating. And am keeping it as clean as possible in the salt spray on the roads up here in the upper Midwest. Fingers crossed. One day it will die, but I don’t think rust will kill it.

I keep mine stock. Great advice.

Regular maintenance is vital. Fluids, etc.

Preventative maintenance is key too.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Keep it all stock.

And don't wheel. Or get in a wreck (sort of like wheeling).

 

[Atlanta_man]

Avoid streams and rivers.

 

[Trumpet]

Avoid streams and rivers.

and salt water beaches, or tidal dirt roadways.

 

[jacob7071]

Step 1 - Open garage door
Step 2 - Remove Ford
Step 3 - Insert Toyota
Step 4 - Close garage door

Seriously though, general maintenance and you're good to go. We (drivers in general - not necessarily T4R.org forum members) probably break more things due to negligence and accidents than what breaks due to poor design.

 

[Legender]

Agree... mine is in the garage and I'm saving it for sunny days.

 

[ElZilcho]

Toyota is the Japanese word meaning "very hard to kill."

If you have the V8 you should preemptively "fix" the secondary air injection pump. See this thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/174030-secondary-air-injection-pump-failure-v8s-important.html

It's a rare case of "if it's not broke, fix it ASAP."

Other than that, Toyota's are really finicky about using OEM replacement parts even on seemingly plug and play items like spark plugs and O2 sensors. Non-OEM won't kill it but it will run like crap. Buy once, cry once. Don't cheap out on replacement parts.

Also, after 100K miles check all of your "lifetime" fluids (Trans, diff, T-case). They are worthy of examination if not replacement.

 

[AuSeeker]

Toyota is the Japanese word meaning "very hard to kill."

If you have the V8 you should preemptively "fix" the secondary air injection pump. See this thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/174030-secondary-air-injection-pump-failure-v8s-important.html

It's a rare case of "if it's not broke, fix it ASAP."

Other than that, Toyota's are really finicky about using OEM replacement parts even on seemingly plug and play items like spark plugs and O2 sensors. Non-OEM won't kill it but it will run like crap. Buy once, cry once. Don't cheap out on replacement parts.

Also, after 100K miles check all of your "lifetime" fluids (Trans, diff, T-case). They are worthy of examination if not replacement.

Need to add timing belt, waterpump and associated idler bearings, etc. to your last sentence.

 

[ElZilcho]

Need to add timing belt, waterpump and associated idler bearings, etc. to your last sentence.

I suppose I just considered those things "regular maintenance" as specified by Toyota and not a "modification" from normal operating procedure... but you're absolutely right.

 

[Billynath1988]

05 v8 with just about 140k,

Contrary to some of the above

I live in the northeast, LI NY specifically, its overwhelmed with salty roads and air, I take it on the beach as often as possible in the summer and wheel it offroad in PA a few times a year. Ive road tripped it up to just under 2k miles in a week so far.. Ive towed with it and carried loads with it.. and I also daily drive it.

On long hwy trips i still see 17 or so mpg, without babying it.
Around town im about 12 to 13.

Upkeep and maintenance, do research and replace worn and broken parts with OEM or higher quality. do frequent inspections under the truck. stay up on rust prevention. keep your paint clean as possible. change fluids and filters on regular intervals.
Be realistic in your expectations.. See my build page for the mods ive done but this is hands down the most dependable vehicle ive owned and being that I owe nothing on it compared to a new vehicle, there is nothing currently out even a new toyota that would make me want to get car payments again and call it an upgrade...

at this point i see no reason why it doesn't go 300k or more.

* I started that secondary airpump thread and the fix is so simple its amazing. the cause is frustrating
* timing belt and waterpump every 90k for about 7 to 800 bucks is not bad if you think about what you get.

 

[Johns06yota]

Im looking more for the mods you have done for longevity and dependability, rather than lifts, performance, etc.


I apologize if there is already a thread like this, feel free to link to it. I couldnt find it myself.

For me the best things you can do are:
-grease driveshaft knuckles (helps to keep the u-joints from wearing out)

-replace oil on a normal interval (I replace mine with partial synthetic high mileage oil every 3000-4000 miles along with the filter)

-replace differential fluid

-check the power steering return line for leaks (the section that normally leaks can be replaced with any normal power steering hose)

-if you are able clean up the frame and rust proof it ( also take a look at front skid plate as they like to rust)

-also if you replace the serpentine belt you might as well replace the tensioners and pulleys that are on the front of the engine (they tend to wear out which for me was around 146,000 miles)

Other than that it should be good for many years to come!

 

[aha2988]

-replacing the crush sleeve in the rear third member with a solid pinion spacer, this will prevent pinion deflection and spare the ring gear from having its teeth ripped off.

-replacing factory alignment cam tab gusset plates with total chaos alignment cam tab gussets. The factory gussets rust and flatten out over time.

-Clazzio seat covers

 

[Billynath1988]

-replacing the crush sleeve in the rear third member with a solid pinion spacer, this will prevent pinion deflection and spare the ring gear from having its teeth ripped off.

-replacing factory alignment cam tab gusset plates with total chaos alignment cam tab gussets. The factory gussets rust and flatten out over time.

-Clazzio seat covers

Link to the solid pinion spacer you speak of? and any information on install..

Which clazzio's did you go with and do you think they are really worth the cost?

 

[aha2988]

Link to the solid pinion spacer you speak of? and any information on install..

Which clazzio's did you go with and do you think they are really worth the cost?

solid pinion spacer:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-126833-toyota-8-v6-turbo-e-locker-solid-spacer.html

I went with the less expensive PVC leather look a like option at $330 it beats any other type of upholstery restoration and they look great as well as add a little padding back to the seats.

and link to gussets if anyone wanted that
http://www.chaosfab.com/2007-2009-FJ-Cruiser-Lower-Control-Arm-Cam-Tab-Gussets-59860
emailing Pat and total Chaos will get you a better price than whats listed

 

[m85476585]

On my last car, the AC condenser (in front of the radiator) was mounted super low, so a common mod was to install metal mesh in front of it to protect it from debris.

On the 4runner so far I've just been keeping up with all the maintenance. I've done the oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, timing belt, fresh coolant, greased drive shafts, serpentine belt, new battery. Keep an eye on the condition of the tires. I use OEM or high quality parts when possible.

Last year I also replaced the front wheel bearings since they were starting to make noise. It's not that hard to do. I've done the front shocks, and I need to do the rear shocks soon.

I installed a block heater and use synthetic oil to make starting in the winter more reliable. It's not necessary in my climate, but it's a nice mod. It also helps the heat warm up faster to defrost the windshield faster.

Off-road armor would also be good to protect against road hazards. Everything is fairly well protected stock, but more metal is always better.

A few random suggestions:

• Lower the spare tire periodically to check the pressure and keep the lowering mechanism from getting stuck
• Use threadlocker, anti-seize, or grease on all fasteners to prevent corrosion