Antman
Elite Member
I don't believe you- prove it. :lmao:
A Handful of 2012 TE Issues / Questions
- Thread starter dsfra
- Start date
I don't believe you- prove it. :lmao:
I'll comment on the floor mats and cargo liner.
I initially ordered everything from Weathertech. The digi fit floor mats fit pretty good but they can still shimmy around slightly. I wish they had little rub spikes on the bottom like more floor mats but overall they're pretty good. I get in mine with muddy boots often and once I take them out to clean them, the inside looks new again.
The weathertech cargo mat, for non-sliding trays, is absolute garbage. Not only is it EXACTLY the same as the OEM Toyota cargo mat, it is more expensive! Ironically, the fit from both of these (yeah even OEM) is still sh!t. Get the Husky liner and do it right the first time. I will say that for the 4R with sliding trays, the weathertech and OEM mats will PROBABLY fit but I have not measured.
As for the hard drive, I wouldn't bother. The headunit scrolling through the USB device is the most painful setup I have ever used. I only use it when I have to charge my iPod. Whoever designed that needs to get punched!
I initially ordered everything from Weathertech. The digi fit floor mats fit pretty good but they can still shimmy around slightly. I wish they had little rub spikes on the bottom like more floor mats but overall they're pretty good. I get in mine with muddy boots often and once I take them out to clean them, the inside looks new again.
The weathertech cargo mat, for non-sliding trays, is absolute garbage. Not only is it EXACTLY the same as the OEM Toyota cargo mat, it is more expensive! Ironically, the fit from both of these (yeah even OEM) is still sh!t. Get the Husky liner and do it right the first time. I will say that for the 4R with sliding trays, the weathertech and OEM mats will PROBABLY fit but I have not measured.
As for the hard drive, I wouldn't bother. The headunit scrolling through the USB device is the most painful setup I have ever used. I only use it when I have to charge my iPod. Whoever designed that needs to get punched!
Jeremy556
New member
1. Jacking Points - front cross member and rear dif.
2. Check here, or alldata.
3. Haven't removed it yet
4. Really? What kind of trail heads have mean spirited kids that hate you specifically? Gas thieves will just drill a hole in the tank, which is a much bigger PITA than anything that happens at the fuel filler.
5. I got some Huskys for my T4R, really like them. There is a spot where they stick up on the driver's side that I don't love, but they work great. They don't need the built in stoppers because of the spikes the stick into the carpet. The weathertech digital fit that I have for my Taco, while great, were certainly no better than the Huskys at nearly double the price, and they are harder (near impossible) to clean.
6. From what I have read, get a big iPod instead or USB drive.99% of the time, it auto connects by BT to my phone and I use that. The 1% of the rest of the time, I have a 16GB USB drive with a bunch of music plugged in to the glove box. JBL is niiiiiice.
7. I just pulled off the front plate, my state doesn't require it, but where I bought it does. A couple holes in a plastic bumper :shrug:
8-10. Is there a question? I must have missed it. I haven't pulled anything yet, but I am certain I will be missing the wheel base and torque of my last ride, but for the 99% of the rest of the time, I won't.
11. Yep, that vertical zip tied wire up there is for the brake controller.
2. Check here, or alldata.
3. Haven't removed it yet
4. Really? What kind of trail heads have mean spirited kids that hate you specifically? Gas thieves will just drill a hole in the tank, which is a much bigger PITA than anything that happens at the fuel filler.
5. I got some Huskys for my T4R, really like them. There is a spot where they stick up on the driver's side that I don't love, but they work great. They don't need the built in stoppers because of the spikes the stick into the carpet. The weathertech digital fit that I have for my Taco, while great, were certainly no better than the Huskys at nearly double the price, and they are harder (near impossible) to clean.
6. From what I have read, get a big iPod instead or USB drive.99% of the time, it auto connects by BT to my phone and I use that. The 1% of the rest of the time, I have a 16GB USB drive with a bunch of music plugged in to the glove box. JBL is niiiiiice.
7. I just pulled off the front plate, my state doesn't require it, but where I bought it does. A couple holes in a plastic bumper :shrug:
8-10. Is there a question? I must have missed it. I haven't pulled anything yet, but I am certain I will be missing the wheel base and torque of my last ride, but for the 99% of the rest of the time, I won't.
11. Yep, that vertical zip tied wire up there is for the brake controller.
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whodat
New member
Stant gas cap
I have the Stant gas locking cap in my 2010 SR5 and sister's 2011 SR5. Works the way it should. When I was researching locking gas caps, other people had issues with other manufacturers giving a check engine light because it was not a tight fit. Over 5 months and no check engine light here for my sis and I. Bought them at a local auto store. Some people said they turned the key too far to the left and it basically broke the locking mechanism, I could see that happening, it's not the best material in the world, if someone really wanted to get to my fuel they could, but this will deter the lazy/stupid.
I have the Stant gas locking cap in my 2010 SR5 and sister's 2011 SR5. Works the way it should. When I was researching locking gas caps, other people had issues with other manufacturers giving a check engine light because it was not a tight fit. Over 5 months and no check engine light here for my sis and I. Bought them at a local auto store. Some people said they turned the key too far to the left and it basically broke the locking mechanism, I could see that happening, it's not the best material in the world, if someone really wanted to get to my fuel they could, but this will deter the lazy/stupid.
dsfra
Member
Thanks for all the info...
Hello, and thanks for all the replies to my original post. Here's how it's shaking out. Any remaining unresolved issues/questions (and a few new ones as well) will get posted to the appropriate sub-forum.
Jacking Points - See below. Certainly (hopefully) the full shop manual will include jacking and support information, conspicuously, on about the first page.
Shop Manuals - Heard back from AllData. They said if I do the 5-year subscription for the 2011 4Runner, then when the 2012 manual is available they'll switch the subscription over to it. Can't argue with that. The Toyota parts department guy quoted $500 - $600 for the printed manual, and AllData will be $9 per year. No contest there.
Plastic Engine Cover - Popped it off as suggested, and got an eyeful of the ugly black plastic intake manifold. Had a momentary flash-back to the work-of-art cast aluminum intake runners on our late (if unlamented) 1996 Tacoma 4-banger. Cover stays on.
Gas Cap - Locking Stant for <= $10. Cheap deterrent.
Floor Mats - E-mailed and asked for an RMA on the Husky liners per the Boss' instructions. Today tried the one-size-fits-everything-ever-made floor mats at Costco, and they are just about perfect - for $15. Just a little trimming and it was done. Cut the driver's mat along the trim-it-yourself groove and there's no mat anywhere near the gas pedal. No trimming on passenger side, and only minimal trimming for the rears. Will pick up an extra set or two for spares at that price. We do a lot of hiking and snowshoeing, and the Costco mats are all-weather enough that they should be fine.
USB Audio - Keeping it simple. Will get a handful of 8 or 16 gb memory sticks and not fight with the hard drive. Spent some time on techno-geek forums and everybody is saying about the same thing that you guys said.
Cheezy Front License Plate Mounting - Dug up some speed/clip nuts. Still waiting for the metal plates from the dealer.
Trailer Towing - Thanks to CmdrCody for the great brake controller install write-up and pics. I'm hoping to avoid ripping into the console and center stack (trim panels sometimes don't go back on the way they came off as we all know) and plan to just cut a pass-through hole for the connector and wires, then fish the wires through the back of the cubby hole and over to the wiring harness connector, leaving a pigtail sticking into the cubby hole. Have the 4Runner-to-controller cable, and will lengthen/solder/heat shrink as needed to allow extra wire length for easy disconnect access when pulling out the controller, hopefully remembering to insulate the exposed connector contacts when the controller is removed, ahem. The idea is that the controller and the 1/4" plywood base it will be mounted to can simply be pulled out of the cubby hole when not needed - or when the Boss notices that I'm falling asleep at the wheel, yanks out the controller, and bangs it against the dashboard a few times. I don't really want the big plastic controller mounting bracket permanently mounted to the ceiling of the cubby hole. Maybe CmrdCody can clarify - it looks like you first tried to mount the controller centered side-to-side in the cubby hole, but then discovered that you had to offset it to the left so the connector would clear some ducting - that's why you you elongated the hole and mounted it off-center to the left. Pretty obvious, but I just want to be sure I've got it straight. No guarantees, but do you think that if I stay over to the left and Dremmel only through the thickness of the cubby hole material that I'd be ok? Hope there are no what's-inside-the-center-stack differences between your 2011 SR5 and the 2012 TE. Ya just never know. Anyhow, that's the plan. And BTW, according to etrailer.com, the standard controller ground wire in the factory wiring isn't heavy enough for a good ground, so they actually have a separate ground pigtail coming out of the connector harness that's supposed to be grounded to something under the dash.
Rear View Camera - Hoping that the AllData wiring diagram will indicate whether all 4Runners have rear view mirror camera monitors in them, whether Nav-equipped or not. Remains to be determined.
Thanks, again for all the input.
Hello, and thanks for all the replies to my original post. Here's how it's shaking out. Any remaining unresolved issues/questions (and a few new ones as well) will get posted to the appropriate sub-forum.
Jacking Points - See below. Certainly (hopefully) the full shop manual will include jacking and support information, conspicuously, on about the first page.
Shop Manuals - Heard back from AllData. They said if I do the 5-year subscription for the 2011 4Runner, then when the 2012 manual is available they'll switch the subscription over to it. Can't argue with that. The Toyota parts department guy quoted $500 - $600 for the printed manual, and AllData will be $9 per year. No contest there.
Plastic Engine Cover - Popped it off as suggested, and got an eyeful of the ugly black plastic intake manifold. Had a momentary flash-back to the work-of-art cast aluminum intake runners on our late (if unlamented) 1996 Tacoma 4-banger. Cover stays on.
Gas Cap - Locking Stant for <= $10. Cheap deterrent.
Floor Mats - E-mailed and asked for an RMA on the Husky liners per the Boss' instructions. Today tried the one-size-fits-everything-ever-made floor mats at Costco, and they are just about perfect - for $15. Just a little trimming and it was done. Cut the driver's mat along the trim-it-yourself groove and there's no mat anywhere near the gas pedal. No trimming on passenger side, and only minimal trimming for the rears. Will pick up an extra set or two for spares at that price. We do a lot of hiking and snowshoeing, and the Costco mats are all-weather enough that they should be fine.
USB Audio - Keeping it simple. Will get a handful of 8 or 16 gb memory sticks and not fight with the hard drive. Spent some time on techno-geek forums and everybody is saying about the same thing that you guys said.
Cheezy Front License Plate Mounting - Dug up some speed/clip nuts. Still waiting for the metal plates from the dealer.
Trailer Towing - Thanks to CmdrCody for the great brake controller install write-up and pics. I'm hoping to avoid ripping into the console and center stack (trim panels sometimes don't go back on the way they came off as we all know) and plan to just cut a pass-through hole for the connector and wires, then fish the wires through the back of the cubby hole and over to the wiring harness connector, leaving a pigtail sticking into the cubby hole. Have the 4Runner-to-controller cable, and will lengthen/solder/heat shrink as needed to allow extra wire length for easy disconnect access when pulling out the controller, hopefully remembering to insulate the exposed connector contacts when the controller is removed, ahem. The idea is that the controller and the 1/4" plywood base it will be mounted to can simply be pulled out of the cubby hole when not needed - or when the Boss notices that I'm falling asleep at the wheel, yanks out the controller, and bangs it against the dashboard a few times. I don't really want the big plastic controller mounting bracket permanently mounted to the ceiling of the cubby hole. Maybe CmrdCody can clarify - it looks like you first tried to mount the controller centered side-to-side in the cubby hole, but then discovered that you had to offset it to the left so the connector would clear some ducting - that's why you you elongated the hole and mounted it off-center to the left. Pretty obvious, but I just want to be sure I've got it straight. No guarantees, but do you think that if I stay over to the left and Dremmel only through the thickness of the cubby hole material that I'd be ok? Hope there are no what's-inside-the-center-stack differences between your 2011 SR5 and the 2012 TE. Ya just never know. Anyhow, that's the plan. And BTW, according to etrailer.com, the standard controller ground wire in the factory wiring isn't heavy enough for a good ground, so they actually have a separate ground pigtail coming out of the connector harness that's supposed to be grounded to something under the dash.
Rear View Camera - Hoping that the AllData wiring diagram will indicate whether all 4Runners have rear view mirror camera monitors in them, whether Nav-equipped or not. Remains to be determined.
Thanks, again for all the input.
As to the rear view camera wiring, at least in a 2010 SR5, No. I Had the dealer install a rear view camera and mirror from the same manufacturer who makes the OEM camera and mirror about 2 years after I purchased my 4runner. There was no pre wire in the vehicle. Had to start from scratch.
You might want to find out if the nav system monitor screen has more then one video input. Some of these mirror's have that. If so, might be able to plug into that.
Here is the info of what and where I got mine, just in case you need it.
The item I bought is from Rostra Precision Inst. Inc. Model 250-8804 (Slim line 3.5 monitor)
Universal Vehicle Rear View Backup Camera Systems by Rostra
I talked to Thomas in Tech Support, 1-800-732-4744 At Rostra. He told me this is the same kit that is sold to SE Toyota at the Port of Call, except this has the 3.5 inch screen vs the 2.4 inch screen Toyota uses, but everything else is the same.
Thomas recommended I call Brandon Disturbing, who is the sole distributer of Rostra Product. Contact “Joe” at Brandon, 1- 877-402-3944. I did so, and he sold me this kit for 471.15 plus shipping. The dealer quoted me 665.00 for the same kit, using the 2.4 inch screen vs the 3.5.
Dealer Quoted me 189.00 to install.
250-8804-CCD
Magna 3.5" TFT LCD Slim Rear View Mirror Monitor and 1/4" CCD Color Camera
Features
• Auto Dimming with 16:9 Aspect Ratio
• 1 Video Input
• Reverse Override
• High Resolution Display
• 30' Extension Harness
• OEM Approved
• 3 year/36,000 Mile Warranty
Download installation instructions.
Includes CCD Camera
They way I wired it, easy change, is that when the vehicle turns on, the CCD turns on, then I turn it off using the button in the center of the mirror. It does not turn on in revere only. I can turn it on and off at any time as long as the engine is running. Fits my needs better.
Good luck and be safe.
You might want to find out if the nav system monitor screen has more then one video input. Some of these mirror's have that. If so, might be able to plug into that.
Here is the info of what and where I got mine, just in case you need it.
The item I bought is from Rostra Precision Inst. Inc. Model 250-8804 (Slim line 3.5 monitor)
Universal Vehicle Rear View Backup Camera Systems by Rostra
I talked to Thomas in Tech Support, 1-800-732-4744 At Rostra. He told me this is the same kit that is sold to SE Toyota at the Port of Call, except this has the 3.5 inch screen vs the 2.4 inch screen Toyota uses, but everything else is the same.
Thomas recommended I call Brandon Disturbing, who is the sole distributer of Rostra Product. Contact “Joe” at Brandon, 1- 877-402-3944. I did so, and he sold me this kit for 471.15 plus shipping. The dealer quoted me 665.00 for the same kit, using the 2.4 inch screen vs the 3.5.
Dealer Quoted me 189.00 to install.
250-8804-CCD
Magna 3.5" TFT LCD Slim Rear View Mirror Monitor and 1/4" CCD Color Camera
Features
• Auto Dimming with 16:9 Aspect Ratio
• 1 Video Input
• Reverse Override
• High Resolution Display
• 30' Extension Harness
• OEM Approved
• 3 year/36,000 Mile Warranty
Download installation instructions.
Includes CCD Camera
They way I wired it, easy change, is that when the vehicle turns on, the CCD turns on, then I turn it off using the button in the center of the mirror. It does not turn on in revere only. I can turn it on and off at any time as long as the engine is running. Fits my needs better.
Good luck and be safe.
echoing others here:
weathertech digital fit mats are awesome for keeping spillage off the carpet, and super easy to clean. my dog lunch a few weeks ago and thank christ for floor mats
I would look into something like pandora/spotify/bluetooth connectivity for music. I am one of the weirdoes who seems to like most of the toyota NAV system, but the music library navigation is amongst the worst i've seen in my life. It's slow, has no search/jump feature, and is slower than molasses.
As for the rest of it, good luck
weathertech digital fit mats are awesome for keeping spillage off the carpet, and super easy to clean. my dog lunch a few weeks ago and thank christ for floor mats
I would look into something like pandora/spotify/bluetooth connectivity for music. I am one of the weirdoes who seems to like most of the toyota NAV system, but the music library navigation is amongst the worst i've seen in my life. It's slow, has no search/jump feature, and is slower than molasses.
As for the rest of it, good luck
gamerc
New member
Adding a rear view tap should be relatively easy based on the work done by Kingpin, Antman, etc. I managed to tap into mine and run the feed into an RCA and ultimately into the back of my aftermarket head unit. So instead of doing that, you can run it across the dash and up the A pillar, above the liner and into the center overhead to provide a feed for the rear view. I think that answers your question?
The aftermarket thread has a tremendous amount of information and pictures. I put a few pictures that clearly show the wiring and taps needed. You can also search the bro show (kingpin's truck)
I should also mention that I can use my stock camera at any time, moving or not with the touch of a button. It automatically turns on based on the reverse sensing wire. The clarity is also much better on my aftermarket unit vs the stock nav I had originally.
The aftermarket thread has a tremendous amount of information and pictures. I put a few pictures that clearly show the wiring and taps needed. You can also search the bro show (kingpin's truck)
I should also mention that I can use my stock camera at any time, moving or not with the touch of a button. It automatically turns on based on the reverse sensing wire. The clarity is also much better on my aftermarket unit vs the stock nav I had originally.
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I should also mention that I can use my stock camera at any time, moving or not with the touch of a button. It automatically turns on based on the reverse sensing wire. The clarity is also much better on my aftermarket unit vs the stock nav I had originally.
gamerc, if you are using the reverse sensing wire as the power wire, how can you turn it on when you are not in reverse? Is that wire hot all the time? When I wired mine (mirror), had to put it in another spot so I could get power all the time (when engine is on) forgot which slot I used now. Just curious.
Be safe.
gamerc, if you are using the reverse sensing wire as the power wire, how can you turn it on when you are not in reverse? Is that wire hot all the time? When I wired mine (mirror), had to put it in another spot so I could get power all the time (when engine is on) forgot which slot I used now. Just curious.
Be safe.
gamerc
New member
In this post, the first pic shows what I tapped.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/61082-aftermarket-stereo-10.html#post934713
The 3 at the top are
White and black both went into the RCA for signal feed. (Camera to head unit)
Red was for power. (Head unit to camera)
Also, in the second pic, you can see the purple (reverse wire) is tapped into a different red (reverse sensing wire) for automatic changeover to the backup cam when it's in reverse. This is for a limited, but the wiring should be the same for the Trail with nav.
In this thread (reference):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/61082-aftermarket-stereo.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/61082-aftermarket-stereo-10.html#post934713
The 3 at the top are
White and black both went into the RCA for signal feed. (Camera to head unit)
Red was for power. (Head unit to camera)
Also, in the second pic, you can see the purple (reverse wire) is tapped into a different red (reverse sensing wire) for automatic changeover to the backup cam when it's in reverse. This is for a limited, but the wiring should be the same for the Trail with nav.
In this thread (reference):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/61082-aftermarket-stereo.html
CmdrCody
New member
....
dsfra
Member
Hey CmdrCody - and everybody else too - thanks for jumping in here. I really appreciate your input.
I didn't want to go into too much detail re the brake controller, but the plan is to sandwich a sheet of that sticky-rubbery non-slip sheeting stuff between the plywood and the bottom of the cubby hole, and cut a length of 5/8" black heater hose just a little bit too long and stand it up between the plywood and the ceiling of the cubby hole, effectively gently "clamping" the plywood down against the floor of the cubby hole. By the time the going gets rough enough to be a problem, we will have already dropped off the trailer anyhow. I'll rig up a collar of some sort on the Dremmel bit to keep it from going too deep - kind of like setting the depth on a router. If nothing else, She Who Speaks With Authority is adamant that the brand new 4Runner not be disassembled even slightly - at least not when it's still so new.
Once the trailer brake stuff is put to bed, I can focus on the rear view camera for the back of the trailer. Anyone know of a good factory grommet or re-sealable hole of some sort for getting a co-ax cable from under the vehicle into the under-dash area? I haven't had a chance yet to get underneath and poke around.
I didn't want to go into too much detail re the brake controller, but the plan is to sandwich a sheet of that sticky-rubbery non-slip sheeting stuff between the plywood and the bottom of the cubby hole, and cut a length of 5/8" black heater hose just a little bit too long and stand it up between the plywood and the ceiling of the cubby hole, effectively gently "clamping" the plywood down against the floor of the cubby hole. By the time the going gets rough enough to be a problem, we will have already dropped off the trailer anyhow. I'll rig up a collar of some sort on the Dremmel bit to keep it from going too deep - kind of like setting the depth on a router. If nothing else, She Who Speaks With Authority is adamant that the brand new 4Runner not be disassembled even slightly - at least not when it's still so new.
Once the trailer brake stuff is put to bed, I can focus on the rear view camera for the back of the trailer. Anyone know of a good factory grommet or re-sealable hole of some sort for getting a co-ax cable from under the vehicle into the under-dash area? I haven't had a chance yet to get underneath and poke around.
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