A little help if possible - theft

[Matt fe2o3]

Hi folks,

Some clowns stole the front and rear license plates off our 2015 SR5 4R Sunday night. Took everything including the screws.

Can anyone post a close-up of the rear mount and the front mount.

All I have is two threaded holes on the rear hatch and on the front the plastic angle plate is still there. I just want to put it back the way it should be. I cannot remember if there was a bracket on the rear.

Thanks very much.

 

[Curly Jefferson]

Hi folks,

Some clowns stole the front and rear license plates off our 2015 SR5 4R Sunday night. Took everything including the screws.

Can anyone post a close-up of the rear mount and the front mount.

All I have is two threaded holes on the rear hatch and on the front the plastic angle plate is still there. I just want to put it back the way it should be. I cannot remember if there was a bracket on the rear.

Thanks very much.

There is no bracket on the rear door, just two holes on the top and there should be two little black foam squares to keep the plate from vibrating.

 

[Matt fe2o3]

There is no bracket on the rear door, just two holes on the top and there should be two little black foam squares to keep the plate from vibrating.

Thanks Curly, that's what I see. I could not remember if there was a plastic mount.

Cheers,

Matt

 

[Headhunter14]

Hope you reported the plates stolen.

 

[gm350reratliff]

For the next plates, I would suggest you get some stainless steel tamper-proof screws. A dedicated thief could still get them off but most thieves will just move on to something easier.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Yep, tamper torx screws for plates are a great idea! Of course, if you REALLY wanna piss those thieves off, get some hi security screws, this is the head:

They won't know what to do with that one!

Oh yeah, link to various types and sizes:

LINK

 

[ic0517]

OK at work I test military alternators. One of the tests is running in salt water.

The guys that built the chamber the alternators get tested in had steel screws into steel stand offs holding an aluminum plate. I got tired of dealing with the rust, so I put stainless steel screws in.

The stainless screws did not rust. But they fused to the aluminum and now I can't get them out (hex head, flat head). The only way is to take a Sawzall cut it all down and redo all the parts. I screwed the pooch.

Then jump to my 4Runner, I took out the steel screws and put in stainless steel screws. They look nice. But the nuts on the back, they rusted. Maybe its galvanic action, I dunno. I gave up. I bought some metric plastic screws from McMaster-Carr, and lathered the nuts behind in grease. I think they are captivated. Could take pictures if you want. I'm not sure what really happened, but I guessed that plastic screws would stop it.

On the front bumper I used stainless steel wood screws (??) coarse thread, I found at Ace Hardware. No issues there because they thread into plastic.

 

[gm350reratliff]

OK at work I test military alternators. One of the tests is running in salt water.

The guys that built the chamber the alternators get tested in had steel screws into steel stand offs holding an aluminum plate. I got tired of dealing with the rust, so I put stainless steel screws in.

The stainless screws did not rust. But they fused to the aluminum and now I can't get them out (hex head, flat head). The only way is to take a Sawzall cut it all down and redo all the parts. I screwed the pooch.

Then jump to my 4Runner, I took out the steel screws and put in stainless steel screws. They look nice. But the nuts on the back, they rusted. Maybe its galvanic action, I dunno. I gave up. I bought some metric plastic screws from McMaster-Carr, and lathered the nuts behind in grease. I think they are captivated. Could take pictures if you want. I'm not sure what really happened, but I guessed that plastic screws would stop it.

On the front bumper I used stainless steel wood screws (??) coarse thread, I found at Ace Hardware. No issues there because they thread into plastic.

You need to use this next time: Amazon.com: Noalox® Anti-oxidant Compound (4 Oz. Bottle): Electronics

It's great when attaching dissimilar metals together. We use it quite extensively at work (power plant). At the very least a good anti-seize should work as well.

I would advise using a small dab of anti-seize on the license plate bolts no matter what bolt material you are using.

 

[Jetboy]

OK at work I test military alternators. One of the tests is running in salt water.

The guys that built the chamber the alternators get tested in had steel screws into steel stand offs holding an aluminum plate. I got tired of dealing with the rust, so I put stainless steel screws in.

The stainless screws did not rust. But they fused to the aluminum and now I can't get them out (hex head, flat head). The only way is to take a Sawzall cut it all down and redo all the parts. I screwed the pooch.

Then jump to my 4Runner, I took out the steel screws and put in stainless steel screws. They look nice. But the nuts on the back, they rusted. Maybe its galvanic action, I dunno. I gave up. I bought some metric plastic screws from McMaster-Carr, and lathered the nuts behind in grease. I think they are captivated. Could take pictures if you want. I'm not sure what really happened, but I guessed that plastic screws would stop it.

On the front bumper I used stainless steel wood screws (??) coarse thread, I found at Ace Hardware. No issues there because they thread into plastic.

Yep - youre getting galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals with an electrolyte will end up dissolving the anode. The electrochemical potential of the metal determines whether it becomes and cathode or anode. You can find charts and then compare. Close metals will react slowly enough that something like copper and stainless steel can often be in contact An antioxident paste with metal flakes of a more noble metal will usually prevent this for a period of time.

I agree that plastic screws are the best solution for this use. Most hardware stores have them.

 

[oljedi11950]

I use torx head for this very reason ! Most of these donkeys just have philips or standard so they can move along quickly . Sorry for all the hassle you gotta deal with !

 

[Matt fe2o3]

Hope you reported the plates stolen.

Nah, I just pulled some off somebody else's car at Target. :lol:

Seriously, yes - actually have to file a police report -they come out, can't do it on line. They add the plates to stolen database immediately.

Got a copy of the report, filled the form out on-line and went to DMV desk at AAA, got a new set of plates, 10 minutes and 20 bucks. The plate frames for my kid's school were 40....:crybaby:

Cops have plate readers here, they pass a car with a bad plate and it pings them on their screen. They were not too concerned about finding the plates, just a matter of time.

 

[ic0517]

You need to use this next time: Amazon.com: Noalox® Anti-oxidant Compound (4 Oz. Bottle): Electronics

It's great when attaching dissimilar metals together. We use it quite extensively at work (power plant). At the very least a good anti-seize should work as well.

I would advise using a small dab of anti-seize on the license plate bolts no matter what bolt material you are using.

LOL turns out we use anti-seize at work. Actually I hate the stuff, it gets into the cracks of my dry skin, and stains my clothes if I get it on them. When I get an alternator that will never go to the customer after I am done with it, I wipe that stuff off.