A question for the Engine guru's
- Thread starter SV_Dude
- Start date
GonOvr
New member
1500 miles is too soon for synthetic. I go to 4k-5k before I switch over. You engine was not broke in yet at 1500. If the ridge at the top and bottom of the cylinder isn't too big they can be cleaned up fairly easy. Get the cylinders and pistons mic'd out before hand to make sure the piston to cylinder clearance is in the proper specs and you have some wiggle room for the new hone. Before you have the work done look at the shops working area. The assembly room should be immaculate and organized. The machine side should be clean as well. I am very picky when it comes to machine work.
I'll ask around on colorado4x4.org for a good machine shop. Nate, if you could ask your friend for me as well I would appreciate that. The last machine shop I used was a mess but the guy knew his stuff. It was his organized mess that only he can filter through. At least he sounded like he knew his stuff when I was talking to him. But I didn't have a whole lot to choose from in the Ft. Campbell area.
Hopefully I can just hone the cylinders and replace the rings and get away with spending under $100. I may have the shop chase all the threads and throw the block in the hot tank though. All of the bearings look brand new still so there isn't any issue there. We'll see if this is a cheap fix soon.
Hopefully I can just hone the cylinders and replace the rings and get away with spending under $100. I may have the shop chase all the threads and throw the block in the hot tank though. All of the bearings look brand new still so there isn't any issue there. We'll see if this is a cheap fix soon.
mikebontoft
New member
i would expect the only cylinder that may have a nice ridge to it would be #4. Its a neat little tool they use to ream it flush though. You could probably away with just a hone but of course it needs to be checked for out-of-round and taper.
if you run your fingernail from inside the bore going up, does it catch at all? that's the ridge Nate mentions.
if you run your fingernail from inside the bore going up, does it catch at all? that's the ridge Nate mentions.
I found a machine shop here that I will more than likely pay a visit to tomorrow. It's called Rocky Mountain Machine. They were recommended by some guys on colorado4x4.org. I really don't want to drive down to Pueblo. I will if I have to but I'm sure there has to be a good machine shop that is local. I called the guy today and he wants to see the block, pistons and the head. I'll see what he has to say about it.
I didn't look too deep into the cylinders because the machinist will tell me everything I need to know about the condition of them.
I'm a huge fan of doing things myself but it I screwed up the piston rings then I'll more than likely have the machine shop assemble the short block. I don't want to have to do this all over again.
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
Here's a few pics of the piston skirts and each individual cylinder wall.
#1 Piston Skirt
#2 Piston Skirt
#3 Piston Skirt
#4 Piston Skirt (no, not a crack... just oil)
#1 Cylinder Wall
#2 Cylinder Wall
#3 Cylinder Wall
#4 Cylinder Wall
mikebontoft
New member
dusty much?
Well that's a terrible attitude... you should learn what the machinists do so you can spot a problem before it goes together
Well that's a terrible attitude... you should learn what the machinists do so you can spot a problem before it goes together
Rockdawg84
New member
SV just curious did the original machine shop ask for the new pistons before they bored the block or did they just go .30 over stock? I ask because my machinist won't bore a block without the new pistons because there can be variance in the pistons and so he mic's them and bores accordingly. I agree, listen to the machinist and then put it back together yourself. you will not make the same mistake twice.
Ding Ding Ding!! We have a winner! According to the machinist, the previous machine shop didn't hone it correctly.
The machine shop here in town sat down and talked with me a bit on the machining and honing process and they think they had their honing machine set to too high of a rotation speed.
This time around they will re-hone the block (they said the bore was fine), hot tank it and chase all the threads. They are also going to clean the head up and pressure check it. The pressure check probably isn't necessary on a new head but there was a bunch of oil build up on the bottom of the head so I figured it wouldn't hurt for them to clean it up and check it out.
Whatcha mean?
mikebontoft
New member
well, when you take out half of my quote it looks bad. lol. I meant exactly that... try to learn what the machinists do so if in the future you're working on something else you will spot a problem you thought was fine before. I think it's pretty cool they sat down with you and said what happened. I agree completely.
Thank you for posting that too... it's nice to see I actually remembered something I learned and could apply it on my own. Doesn't happen much.
Thank you for posting that too... it's nice to see I actually remembered something I learned and could apply it on my own. Doesn't happen much.
I got my engine back from the machine shop. I ended up using Lee's Automotive Machine Shop in Colorado Springs. They all seemed very smart on what they were doing and didn't have any issues taking time out of their day to hang out and b/s with me about engines and the issues I was having with mine. When I picked up the engine the machinist told me that he did a search through some bulletins to see if anything pertained to my blow by issue and found one issue with the PCV grommet but that only applied to the 81-84 engine valve covers. All in all, I would recommend those guys to anyone. Their prices were dirt cheap compared to what I paid in Tennessee for not much more.
They hot tanked the block, re-honed it and hot tanked it again. They also hot tanked the head and did some work on one of the valves. I guess with all the junk the engine was burning, one of the valves wouldn't seat right and wasn't sealing at all. They also hot tanked the pistons and stamped the piston number on each of the connecting rods.
Just a recap...
Before:
And now:
Cyl 1
Cyl 2
Cyl 3
Cyl 4
Head
Pistons
I'm pretty impressed with how clean everything came out of the hot tank. I will get a small needle pick and clean a little more of the carbon build up off of the top of the pistons and the bottom of the head in some of the smaller places. Overall, I am happy with the work and the speed of their work.
I'll order my gasket kit and new rings tonight. I will also need to get another tube of the Toyota FIPG... that stuff is the best of the best when it comes to RTV type stuff. Hopefully the re-assembly can come in a very short time and get this 4runner back on the road to see what kind of power this engine can unleash when it's all healthy!
They hot tanked the block, re-honed it and hot tanked it again. They also hot tanked the head and did some work on one of the valves. I guess with all the junk the engine was burning, one of the valves wouldn't seat right and wasn't sealing at all. They also hot tanked the pistons and stamped the piston number on each of the connecting rods.
Just a recap...
Before:
And now:
Cyl 1
Cyl 2
Cyl 3
Cyl 4
Head
Pistons
I'm pretty impressed with how clean everything came out of the hot tank. I will get a small needle pick and clean a little more of the carbon build up off of the top of the pistons and the bottom of the head in some of the smaller places. Overall, I am happy with the work and the speed of their work.
I'll order my gasket kit and new rings tonight. I will also need to get another tube of the Toyota FIPG... that stuff is the best of the best when it comes to RTV type stuff. Hopefully the re-assembly can come in a very short time and get this 4runner back on the road to see what kind of power this engine can unleash when it's all healthy!
GonOvr
New member
I can go back and quote it if need be. I remember someone had recently said they were going to fix an engine and sell it to make way for bigger and better things.
This is me guiding you down the richous path that not many have the balls to take.
I can go back and quote it if need be. I remember someone had recently said they were going to fix an engine and sell it to make way for bigger and better things.
This is me guiding you down the richous path that not many have the balls to take.
I am having a hard time making up my mind on what to do. I keep wondering to myself if I would have a lot of benefit from a big v8 and huge axles... I mean, those are things that you would put in a buggy. I could still use the 22re and do a toyota sas or a tg sas and go anywhere I want it to go for a LOT less money. I'm still having sexy thoughts about Jeeps too!
Too many decisions. I was talking to FoG the other day and we came to the conclusion that I'm trying to go too big too fast. I don't want to end up with a 20k project that will take a year to complete.
KidVermicious
New member
I think you need to build a buggy. Seriously. Get the 4Runner back on the road and trail so you don't go stir crazy, then stop throwing money at it. Find a cheap tube chassis and take your time to build it up exactly how you want it - handpick your drivetrain, axles, suspension, build your dream rig. You're indecisive because you think you want bigger and better but you don't know. So go find out - a newer 4Runner isn't going to do it, a Jeep isn't going to do it, you need a buggy. If you love it you love it. If it turns out it isn't your thing, then you know that and you can come back to the 4Runner build with a better idea of what you want from it, and without being distracted by all the longing glances at the green grass on the other side of the fence.
mikebontoft
New member
when I woke up earlier, my eyes mixed up v8 and axles... somehow I saw a Lexus v8 in your future.
I like the idea of a buggy but I am definitely not equipped to build one. Not in a 2 car garage of a rental house and I will need a lot more fabrication experience before I can take on a project like that. Not to mention that a tube buggy will cost WAY more than the wife will allow me to spend.
I do think you're right about getting the 4runner back on the trail though. I need to drive it and chill out a little bit and take my approach a little slower and just enjoy the sport of 4 wheeling for a bit.
Why couldn't I have gone with knitting or something? If you want to upgrade or go with another design, it's about $10 in materials. :happens:
KidVermicious
New member
Well, that's why I suggested finding a used chassis. Everything after that is just suspension and driveline setup, which is no different than doing the motor swap or a straight axle conversion you're chomping at the bit for. Easier, probably, because you wouldn't have those pesky stock components or body panels in the way.
I'd love to do a yota based buggy. 2uzfe motor in front of a 2wd auto tranny, 4-1 atlas, brace up a set of elocked Landcruiser axles and link it front and rear, I could drive that. I bet I'd get bored with it real quick, but I'd sure like to find out.
I'd love to do a yota based buggy. 2uzfe motor in front of a 2wd auto tranny, 4-1 atlas, brace up a set of elocked Landcruiser axles and link it front and rear, I could drive that. I bet I'd get bored with it real quick, but I'd sure like to find out.
GonOvr
New member
My buddy has a truggy down in penrose that was involved in a fire recently. garage caught fire and it burned the front end so it will need a new engine more than likely and some new sheet metal. It does independence trail effortlessly. He might let it go for a reasonable price. I can ask if you're interested.
