ABS light on, Stuck in Park

T

Treestand_Twerkers

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ABS Light is on, stuck in park. Can use white tab to override, not a fix.

So, here's what I know.

Brake lights work, not the 10amp fuse.

Tore apart console to access shift control switch and solenoid.

Pull apart the connector.

It's a 6-place connector, only 5 pins present. 2 bigger ones go to the solenoid.
When I use a battery and leads, and put 12V to those pins, the solenoid makes a clicking sound.
On the engine-side of that connector, with key turned, and brake pressed in, testing for voltage at those 2 corresponding female ports of the connector, not registering any voltage.

There are 3 smaller pins that go the the switch? that is behind the solenoid, that white Japanese fan looking thing. I test for continuity on the switch side of the connector and through the combinations to test, either got 0 Ohm or was able to register .6 Ohms.

The solenoid has the 2 wires that go tot he connector and the thing behind it, switch?, has 3 wires leaving it to the connector. From there, the "engine side" of the connector has all 5 wires that go to the white box that's right there.

Any ideas?

I saw a post of a guy with a pic of his situation but.. shouldn't I be getting 12 volts when key turned (even truck running), brake pressed in, at the engine side of the connector with the bigger pins that go to solenoid?

I tested resistance on those solenoid pins, on the solenoid side of the connector, and it registered 30 Ohms. Manual says 21-27 is spec....

I think that's all I know now..

Thanks
 
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In addition, saw where the ABS diagnostic is by intake plenum. Took out the jumper pin and used metal to jump E1 to wherever all the utube vids say. turn key on, and ABS light disappears. Can't get specific code via that method.

through some testing as well, on the engine side of the connector, I was able to register 11V or so testing around those 3 small female ports that connect to the switch thing behind the solenoid.

*By "engine side of the connector*, I really mean the white box side.
 
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Treestand_Twerkers said:
In addition, saw where the ABS diagnostic is by intake plenum. Took out the jumper pin and used metal to jump E1 to wherever all the utube vids say. turn key on, and ABS light disappears. Can't get specific code via that method.

through some testing as well, on the engine side of the connector, I was able to register 11V or so testing around those 3 small female ports that connect to the switch thing behind the solenoid.

*By "engine side of the connector*, I really mean the white box side.
Click to expand...

Try leaving the shorting bar in and jumping it, it seems pretty hit and miss if you have to remove it. I was just messing with it the other day trying to get codes and clear them. If I'm not wrong it should blink constantly if you truly dont have any codes being thrown, so take that as you will
At any rate I can't see why ABS wouldn't allow the transmission to shift... or why they would be linked at all. But I'm no transmission tech
 
This might not be any help, but I had an issue one afternoon out wheeling that wouldn't allow my auto to shift properly,
and it turned out the trailer brake harness got pinched/shorted between the body & frame. At least check it if you have it?
 
Update

So I can see the solenoid working when I put 12v to it, truck running.

truck running, testing for voltage to the female half of the connector.
Not getting any voltage.

That connector is one of two, that come from the computer that is aside the solenoid and shifter...

replace computer?
 
Update

So, looked up some of that DTC-1 diagnostic for ABS under the hood by manifold.

1) Left "in-house" jumper, connected E1 to Jc, turn to ON, no ABS light.
2) Same with "in-house" jumper removed
3) Same with both removed

A) Left "in-house" jumper, measured voltage across E1 to Jc = 4.8V
service manual for 2002 says 10-14V

B) Same result with removed "in-house" jumper

Note: Measured .2V before turning key to ON
 
Update

So. fuse number 20 is the problem. There's a short somewhere.

Fuse 20, ECU-IG, 10A, Cruse control, ABS system, Elec Controll Auto Transm system, Power antenna, power window, elec moon roof, power back window, back window defogger and back window wiper

I pulled a 10A from another vehicle and popped it in there. Worked great. Then it blew again.....

Thoughts?

Does that mean there's a short somewhere listed above?
 
Treestand_Twerkers said:
So. fuse number 20 is the problem. There's a short somewhere.

Fuse 20, ECU-IG, 10A, Cruse control, ABS system, Elec Controll Auto Transm system, Power antenna, power window, elec moon roof, power back window, back window defogger and back window wiper

I pulled a 10A from another vehicle and popped it in there. Worked great. Then it blew again.....

Thoughts?

Does that mean there's a short somewhere listed above?
Click to expand...

I'd start my search for the issue with the rear hatch wiring. Take a look at this video to see how to access and repair the wiring.
 
Pull an Amp measurement of that circuit to see if it under 20 amps.

No way will a 10 Amp fuse work in a 20 Amp circuit.. :)


Miss read #20 as 20 Amp circuit. It's a 10amp one.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
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Treestand_Twerkers said:
So. fuse number 20 is the problem. There's a short somewhere.

Fuse 20, ECU-IG, 10A, Cruse control, ABS system, Elec Controll Auto Transm system, Power antenna, power window, elec moon roof, power back window, back window defogger and back window wiper

I pulled a 10A from another vehicle and popped it in there. Worked great. Then it blew again.....

Thoughts?

Does that mean there's a short somewhere listed above?
Click to expand...

I would say yes if you’ve blown 2 fuses there is probably a short on that wire.. I hate electrical diagnostic. I’m sure there’s a decently easy way to pinpoint it but I’m not an expert in electrical. Good luck, I have faith you will find it lol.
 
brillo_76 said:
Pull an Amp measurement of that circuit to see if it under 20 amps.

No way will a 10 Amp fuse work in a 20 Amp circuit.. :)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Fuse #20 which he says is a 10amp fuse. But yes always a good idea to make sure you have correct amp fuses installed.
 
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T4topher said:
Fuse #20 which he says is a 10amp fuse. But yes always a good idea to make sure you have correct amp fuses installed.
Click to expand...
Ah. Gotcha. Missed that part. I still put a meter on it and see how much it is drawing. That gives you an idea of what's going on. Then use [MENTION=8262]badluck[/MENTION] method to track it down. If it still has issues after everything disconnected. Then it's a trace and fix wires project.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
brillo_76 said:
Ah. Gotcha. Missed that part. I still put a meter on it and see how much it is drawing. That gives you an idea of what's going on. Then use [MENTION=8262]badluck[/MENTION] method to track it down. If it still has issues after everything disconnected. Then it's a trace and fix wires project.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'll do that.

what is the badluck method mentioned?
 
Tailgate wires broken

HOpefully fixing this resolves issue.

Either way, doing this fix on the other truck 2000 Limited.
 

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Ah the rear door. I was thinking the rear side door. You are correct Toyota calls our hatch the rear door. :) That's extremely common. I had to fix a few wires there. The other common place I'd throw drivers door as well.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
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