ABS speed sensor/harness or Zero Point calibration???? Help please.

[Jgonz]

Hello all,

Issue: After installing a Daystar 2.5/1.5 inch leveling kit i turned the truck on and immediately i got an ABS, FLASHING CENTER DIFF, AND SLIP LIGHT. I disconnected the battery after the lights wouldnt go off and drove it around but no luck.. I rechecked the hardware and cables and everything was good to go.

Vehicle: 2011 Limited w/ Xreas, 17 inch trail wheels w/ BFG AT's 265/70/17

I just spent the last 4 hours searching and googling and my issue.. I found a few threads with some similar issues but if anyone has had this happen to them (and found the solution) any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

So, after searching I came to the conclusion that we could have jacked up an ABS speed sensor or harness, or i have to do a zero point calibration. I havent had the chance to do the Calibration yet but hopefully this is the fix.. i have the "how to" thread on how to do a Zero pt cal (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...celeration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html) and plan to do it first thing tomorrow morning. If that doesnt work, im going to see if there are any codes thrown and work from there..

like i said, if anyone has had this issue and it isnt in my plan for troubleshooting, please let me know.. I thank you in advance and am greatly appreciative.

-JP

 

[1engineer]

Sensor wire probably since it lit up immediately. They are easy to stretch.

 

[3wbdriver]

Yup. Probably a broken ABS wire. I had the same issue after installing springs a couple months ago. Cost me $100 to get it narrowed down to which one at the dealer and $65 for the replacement wire.

 

[Jono.ful]

i really don't know how you guys seem to have such bad luck with the abs wires. I've had my front suspension apart probably a dozen times, including once instance where the rotor was inadvertently hanging by the sensor wire and the brake line, and I have yet to damage a wire.

:noidea:


that said, I too had to have a zero point calibration done when I first put my lift on.

 

[Jgonz]

That's what I was fearing. Front right was really stretched out. Xreas was a RPITA when it came to pulling the shock out and throwing the spacer on. Hopefully I can just get the wire and troubleshoot from there.. Any thoughts on hazards driving with those degraders??

 

[Jgonz]

i really don't know how you guys seem to have such bad luck with the abs wires. I've had my front suspension apart probably a dozen times, including once instance where the rotor was inadvertently hanging by the sensor wire and the brake line, and I have yet to damage a wire.

:noidea:


that said, I too had to have a zero point calibration done when I first put my lift on.

Jono, did you get any lights after swapping setups? Like I said, all the wires look fine, but do you think it could be the calibration?

 

[gm350reratliff]

I'm betting you over-stretched the wire(s).

I've had my lift on for almost 5k, with a lot of that in ice and snow, haven't had to do a zero point cal yet. I will someday just to do it though. My 4th gen has been lifted for 5 years without a zero point cal though.

 

[Jgonz]

I'm betting you over-stretched the wire(s).

I've had my lift on for almost 5k, with a lot of that in ice and snow, haven't had to do a zero point cal yet. I will someday just to do it though. My 4th gen has been lifted for 5 years without a zero point cal though.

I'm betting you're right... going to buy some wire, shielding and probably going to make my own harness with the stock plugs and better wires..

 

[wfo9]

You don't even have to stretch it two screw it up. There is a flaw from the factory on these. They crush the wire during install. Any (and I mean any) change to the clip where it is crushed and it stops working.

BTW, it is easy to test the wire. Just use a multi meter and test resistance...

 

[Jgonz]

You don't even have to stretch it two screw it up. There is a flaw from the factory on these. They crush the wire during install. Any (and I mean any) change to the clip where it is crushed and it stops working.

BTW, it is easy to test the wire. Just use a multi meter and test resistance...

That was the initial plan but I figured I would change both front sensor harnesses due to the fact that they both front harnesses were stretched out severely. I already have the wire, shielding, solder, etc. I'll be sure to take pics...

 

[Jgonz]

rewired the front left sensor. Still have a slip light... troubleshooting...

 

[Intruder]

rewired the front left sensor. Still have a slip light... troubleshooting...

Did you just turn it back on or did you drive it around? The wheel sensor needs to return good codes back for a bit before the light clears.

 

[Jono.ful]

Jono, did you get any lights after swapping setups? Like I said, all the wires look fine, but do you think it could be the calibration?

I, like many others, needed a zero point calibration. But I only had the vcs and abs lights come on

 

[Jgonz]

Did you just turn it back on or did you drive it around? The wheel sensor needs to return good codes back for a bit before the light clears.

I disconnected the battery, cleared the data, recalibrated the sensors, recalibrated downhill assist and drove it around. I still have the slip light on after 2 days of driving...?

 

[Intruder]

I disconnected the battery, cleared the data, recalibrated the sensors, recalibrated downhill assist and drove it around. I still have the slip light on after 2 days of driving...?

OEM wiring or homebrew? If it's homebrew that might be the problem. If OEM, maybe it's the sensor and not the wire.

 

[Jgonz]

OEM wiring or homebrew? If it's homebrew that might be the problem. If OEM, maybe it's the sensor and not the wire.

Homebrew, but the break was in the middle so I just cut the bad portion out and soldered a new portion on, utilizing the oem harnesses. Resistance was still 0.00... would a bad sensor cause a slip light only?

 

[Intruder]

So you went from having a bunch of lights on to only one? I'd still look at the homebrew fix as being the most likely problem. I'm not questioning your electrical skills, but it seems like the easiest and least costly thing to do right now is to get an OEM wire and see if that fixes it.

 

[Jgonz]

So you went from having a bunch of lights on to only one? I'd still look at the homebrew fix as being the most likely problem. I'm not questioning your electrical skills, but it seems like the easiest and least costly thing to do right now is to get an OEM wire and see if that fixes it.

Yes, initially I had an ABS warning, Center Diff lock (flashing) and Slip warning. I just rechecked the wires from the harness against the other side and all wires checked good. Could I have missed a step in the recalibration process? I did:

1. Disconnected battery
2. Cleared sensor memory
3. Recalibrated sensors
4. Recalibrated DAC
5. Drove on a flat surface over 25 mph for more than 5 miles.

I just checked my DAC and that is not engaging and the light on the cluster is not illuminating.. WTH..

 

[Jgonz]

After step 1 I obviously reconnected the battery...

 

[wfo9]

So you went from having a bunch of lights on to only one? I'd still look at the homebrew fix as being the most likely problem. I'm not questioning your electrical skills, but it seems like the easiest and least costly thing to do right now is to get an OEM wire and see if that fixes it.

Yep, go with a new wire. I remember hearing about someone having the same problem trying to rewire it. so I went with a new Totyota wire. The theory was that they had a specific resistance or something in it. You never know with Toyota, they like to make things hard on the aftermarket....