ABS Switch - Easy, effective and simple

Singtoe

New member
Every one is talking about disabling there ABS by pulling a fuse or cutting wires. As you know, if you have a Factory installed E-locker, when you push that button, it turns off the ABS system. We for those that do not have the oem e-locker, you can install a switch to mimic the e-locker turning off the ABS system. The nice thing is that you can turn it on at the push of a button too, don't need to reset or restart your 4runner.

Here are the directions. This only applies to 4runners from 1996 to 2000 as the new ones did not have the option for an e-locker.

Step one, remove drivers side lower kick panel.
Step two, find the e-locker plug

wiring1.jpg


Step three, find the yellow and blue wire and connect that to a switch. It is in position 1 on the plug.
Step four, ground the other terminal of the switch.
Step five, install switch in dash board
Step six, reinstall lower kick panel.

During operation, you engage your abs switch, the abs ECU thinks that the e-locker is engaged and turns itself off. Your only tell tell indicator is that there will be the diff lock light come on. No ABS light will come on. When you are done wheeling, disengage the switch and your abs is back online.
 
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This is very helpful, thanks.

I do not think I will install an ABS switch, but I have (very distant) plans to put in an ARB locker in the rear, with this info I can get the ABS disabled and the rear diff lock light to turn on when the ARB locker is engaged!
 
Nice find.
In you picture I don't see a connector with the yellow/blue wire. Which connector is it in your picture?
Do you use a momentary or constant on/off?
 
Nice find.
In you picture I don't see a connector with the yellow/blue wire. Which connector is it in your picture?
Do you use a momentary or constant on/off?

It is obsure in the view. Here is another picture from a blue wire mod. it is the wire closet to the right.

16c390ab.jpg~original




You need a constant on and off switch. You could use a window lock out switch from ebay and it will fit the blank openings on your dash perfectly. Just have to relabel it ABS.
 
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so call me a homo or what ever you like, but i bought the factory locking diff switch so i could try utilizing the the factory wiring to disable the ABS, and cause well it looks cool(that was the real reason). anyhow i remembered that the rear locking diff will only work when in 4lo and under 20mph. so will this also be the same for the disabled ABS? cause i want to be able to turn my ABS off when ever i want no mater what with out having to turn off my truck or go under the hood to re-hook some wires up. what do you think? will this work?
 
so call me a homo or what ever you like, but i bought the factory locking diff switch so i could try utilizing the the factory wiring to disable the ABS, and cause well it looks cool(that was the real reason). anyhow i remembered that the rear locking diff will only work when in 4lo and under 20mph. so will this also be the same for the disabled ABS? cause i want to be able to turn my ABS off when ever i want no mater what with out having to turn off my truck or go under the hood to re-hook some wires up. what do you think? will this work?

Are you using an E-locker ECU with your switch? I will give you two scenarios in order to make it work.

The first would be without the ecu. You would need to buy a relay (bosch type is fine). You need to connect the green and yellow wire (position 4 on the Toyota plug) to terminal 86 of the relay. You need to connect the Yellow and Blue wire (position 1 on the Toyota plug) to terminal 87 of the relay. Terminals 30 and 85 need to be wired to a ground.

automotive-relay-relay.gif


With this method, when you push the diff lock button, you are energizing the relay giving the ABS ECU the ground signal it needs to deactivate it. Since the is no ECU, the 4lo would not affect this situation.


The second method would be if you had the diff ecu but no actual diff lock. When you push the button, the E-lock ecu is trying to engage the diff but never gets the lock detection signal to confirm. If you have this set up, remove the ECU and proceed with relay method just explained.
 
Well hell, how did I miss this when you posted it? Great little mod. Ordering a toyota for light switch now and going use it for ABS disable.

So just for clarification, all you did was tap the Yellow/Blue wire (that's yellow wire with blue stripe, as opposed to Blue/yellow, blue with yellow stripe), run that to a normally open switch, with the other terminal of the switch to ground?
 
Well hell, how did I miss this when you posted it? Great little mod. Ordering a toyota for light switch now and going use it for ABS disable.

So just for clarification, all you did was tap the Yellow/Blue wire (that's yellow wire with blue stripe, as opposed to Blue/yellow, blue with yellow stripe), run that to a normally open switch, with the other terminal of the switch to ground?

I borrowed the photograph so the red line was already on the picture. It will be the yellow wire with the blue strip. It is position 1 on the ecm plug.

Yes, run the switch to ground and when it is engaged, the abs will think the e-locker is on thus turning itself off.
 
good job, I did a similar thing, but off the abs fuse. I leave it off, so i think i will just end up removing the fuse all together.
 
Do you have a factory rear locker?

nope, was told my truck did:bash: when i bought it, it had the switch ect, and like a fool i believed the guy and bought it without testing it:ybrick:. then when i got it home i went to test it, and nothing happendso i thought the swtich might be bad so i bought a new one and when i got it and went to put it in i noticed that it wasnt plugged in so i tryed to plug it in but found no pig tail. then i looked under the truck and found no rear locker:wtf:. thought that someone might had just put a different rear axle in it, and did some more research and decoding of the vin and found out mine never have one... so yeah no rear diff lock, no pig tail, but i have the cool switch... :trophy: :rockthrow:
 
nope, was told my truck did:bash: when i bought it, it had the switch ect, and like a fool i believed the guy and bought it without testing it:ybrick:. then when i got it home i went to test it, and nothing happendso i thought the swtich might be bad so i bought a new one and when i got it and went to put it in i noticed that it wasnt plugged in so i tryed to plug it in but found no pig tail. then i looked under the truck and found no rear locker:wtf:. thought that someone might had just put a different rear axle in it, and did some more research and decoding of the vin and found out mine never have one... so yeah no rear diff lock, no pig tail, but i have the cool switch... :trophy: :rockthrow:

Aw man, that sucks. Was it a private seller? I got lucky and ad the opposite happen. I didn't even know about the locker until I bought it and found out here how valuable it is.

That is so frustrating that the guy lied to you. I would bet he just put the switch in to fool people. It's one of those mistake you will never make again. Just like I'll never buy a car without really looking for rust on the undercarriage...
 
yeah it was a private seller... i left the switch in cause it "looks cool" and have two of them lol yeah and after i got it home and found out i had nothing i called him and called him and called him, nothing... fool me once ok thats cool you got me, fool me twice ok im an idiot, and fool me three times well just shoot me and take my all my stuff... lets hope i dont ever become and idiot lol
 
Singtoe
Any problems or side effects that you may have noticed since you have done this mod?
 
Does anyone know what the normal voltage level is for the yellow/Blue wire? I am using an OEM Toyota fog light switch for this, but it is made to be used with a relay, which I don't want to add.
 
Does anyone know what the normal voltage level is for the yellow/Blue wire? I am using an OEM Toyota fog light switch for this, but it is made to be used with a relay, which I don't want to add.

It is low voltage. The light is less then 3 watts. The Abs just senses the voltage so fog light switch should be fine.
 
I finally got around to do this mod. At first I thought I did something wrong because I expected the ABS light to come on. Then I noticed the RR Lock light on. Then I re-read your first post that states this.

At this point, I assume that the ABS is off.
Thanks.
 
Holy crap, I thought I was the only one on the planet who got to feel like an idiot after buying a t4r with an elocker switch in it, but no elocker. I had the locker in my first t4r and swore id never buy one without it. Sold that one a couple years ago and early this year I bought the one I have now. It had the switch in it, I got it from a stealership so when i hoped in and saw the switch I figured I was good to go. Got home and tried a little ditch crossing, no go. After trying to figure out the problem I found no locker underneath. :mad:
 

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