ABS, VSC, Trac Issues???

summit21

New member
So after researching a number of threads on this subject it seems to be a fairly common problem without a definitive fix. I currently have the following lights lit on dash: P Brake, ABS, Trac, VSC, and Slip. I have tried both the battery disconnect and ZPC to fix to no avail. I checked with scan tool and got the following codes: C0210, C1223, and C1336. Do I go ahead and replace the speed sensor, and if so do I use OEM or aftermarket (Rock Auto is cheapest, but only by $35 vs. OEM)? There should really be a link in the Pre-purchase/ Mods write-up on the ZPC at a minimum, and more if possible on issues with the ABS/speed sensors. :frusty:
 

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When it comes to sensors I try to opt for the same manufacter as oem. Does your actron scan tool let you of the zero point calibration? And clear the abs codes?
 
Did you try just resetting the codes and see if it comes back on? Back in December during our first big cold snap, on two afternoons I came out of my office and started up my 4runner and it had all of those warning lights showing. I just reset the codes and went on my way.

It happened again the next day, so I just reset the codes again. They haven't come back on since and the 4runner drives just fine.
 
I have only tried the reset with battery disconnect. It only lasted a day or two and lights came back on. I will try resetting with a scan tool. Speed sensor prices are all over the place. Autozone and O'rielly's are really proud of theirs $240/$265! A toyota OEM parts site I use has them listed for $169. This seems to be an issue related to cold weather and/or snow.
 
1. So I tried disconnecting the battery again, lights remained on. 2. I then pulled the speed sensor from right rear wheel cleaned it and re-inserted it.3. Unplugged battery again, lights still on. 4. Then did a zero point calibration, lights remain on. Went to Auto Zone, and checked codes; still have speed sensor code and ABS system code, yaw sensor code went away. I was able to erase ABS codes and corresponding dash lights went off, finally. They came back on within 1 minute of driving away. So I guess I am now left to spend nearly $200 on a new speed sensor. Anyone got any other suggestions before I start throwing money at this repair?
 
Replaced wheel sensor today, disconnected battery for 15 minutes, reconnected . Lights remain on. Then did ZPC, lights went off. Drove and the same lights back on. Code reader continues to say ABS malf, and Right rear wheel sensor signal malfuntion!!!! I replaced the fracking sensor with a new one!:rant::rant::rant::rant::rant::rant::rant::rant::rant::rant:
Anyone else with a thought before I take it into stealership???
 
I may be mistaken but I believe the old disconnect the battery trick doesn't work on newer vehicles. You have to have a scan tool that will clear the codes.
 
I have the same light come on last week (minus the P.Brake and ABS). I just borrowed ths scan gauge from a friend and will run it today to see the codes.
By the way, before the codes came on, I hadn't driven the vehicle for 2 weeks and it was extremely cold here during that time. Hopefully it was just the cold and nothing serious. Will keep you posted.
 
The lights cleared/ turned off after doing the ZPC. Once I put it into drive and moved forward lights came right back on. Yesterday I got under truck to check integrity of writing and everything appears fine, i.e...no loose wires or disconnects anywhere. Could it be a bad ABS FUSE?
 
The lights cleared/ turned off after doing the ZPC. Once I put it into drive and moved forward lights came right back on. Yesterday I got under truck to check integrity of writing and everything appears fine, i.e...no loose wires or disconnects anywhere. Could it be a bad ABS FUSE?
Bump for 5yr old thread.
how did you resolve this issue?
finished a 100 miles round trip, parked the runner, started it the next day and boom, whole dash lit up..disconnected battery, no dice, code reader gives me C0210, C0215, C1201, C1223

EDIT: am also in the market for a wheel specific abs code reader like yours, who can point me in the right direction
 
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Bump for 5yr old thread.
how did you resolve this issue?
finished a 100 miles round trip, parked the runner, started it the next day and boom, whole dash lit up..disconnected battery, no dice, code reader gives me C0210, C0215, C1201, C1223

EDIT: am also in the market for a wheel specific abs code reader like yours, who can point me in the right direction

Check your harnesses. I seem to have a problem where I keep pulling the wires out of the plug.

Does your Speedo still work?
 
Check your harnesses. I seem to have a problem where I keep pulling the wires out of the plug.

Does your Speedo still work?

Nope speedo isnt working, and i have a p0500 code as well.
a lil digging around says c0210 & c0215 are for the rear wheel sensors, while the other 2 are triggered cos of the wheel speed sensor malfunction, so would inspect the harness and see if i can see a cut. however on tacoma forum, a failed rear wheeel bearing was the culprit, as it spewed grease onto the sensor.

makes me wonder, how to deduce a failed/failing wheel bearing??
 
Nope speedo isnt working, and i have a p0500 code as well.
a lil digging around says c0210 & c0215 are for the rear wheel sensors, while the other 2 are triggered cos of the wheel speed sensor malfunction, so would inspect the harness and see if i can see a cut. however on tacoma forum, a failed rear wheeel bearing was the culprit, as it spewed grease onto the sensor.

makes me wonder, how to deduce a failed/failing wheel bearing??

It's pretty rare for these bearings to fail. I replaced mine at 190k miles and yes it glides better but the old ones were fine. Now I have spare axle shafts cut to length with good bearings just in case (I stuck nitro chromoly axle shafts in)

It may just be that the wire has been pulled 1/2" from the plug. Try pushing it back in towards the plug. That trick works for me, until it jostles out again. I might super glue the wire in the plug...


On another note, I replaced all my harnesses and before I broke one again I had grease on one sensor and weird readings at 31 and 62mph. Does that sound consistent with the speed sensor issue on the taco? I didn't think there would be any ferrous metal in the grease to throw off the sensor. Was it a failed beating or a seal of some sort. Like a CV axle seal?
 
It's pretty rare for these bearings to fail. I replaced mine at 190k miles and yes it glides better but the old ones were fine. Now I have spare axle shafts cut to length with good bearings just in case (I stuck nitro chromoly axle shafts in)

It may just be that the wire has been pulled 1/2" from the plug. Try pushing it back in towards the plug. That trick works for me, until it jostles out again. I might super glue the wire in the plug...


On another note, I replaced all my harnesses and before I broke one again I had grease on one sensor and weird readings at 31 and 62mph. Does that sound consistent with the speed sensor issue on the taco? I didn't think there would be any ferrous metal in the grease to throw off the sensor. Was it a failed beating or a seal of some sort. Like a CV axle seal?

so i got the sensor off, and noticed its covered in grease, white grease, so sprayed wd 40 into the hole to clean off the grease, and wiped down the sensor with rag, will reinstall and rescan. got a 0.33 ohm reading with a fluke meter when i checked the resistance of the sensor
 

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so i got the sensor off, and noticed its covered in grease, white grease, so sprayed wd 40 into the hole to clean off the grease, and wiped down the sensor with rag, will reinstall and rescan. got a 0.33 ohm reading with a fluke meter when i checked the resistance of the sensor

I'm no expert but that looks like bearing grease. Good luck! I'll be waiting for the results. I have new front hubs, just need to source some bearings and get it done. If this fixes your problem I guess I'll do my front hubs.
 
I'm no expert but that looks like bearing grease. Good luck! I'll be waiting for the results. I have new front hubs, just need to source some bearings and get it done. If this fixes your problem I guess I'll do my front hubs.

ran into a hitch, seems i over torqued the sensor bolt, and broke it while attempting to reinstall the sensor, so gotta drill out the broken bolt, during the wheel bearing ops, i cleaned and reinstalled the sensor, but error still remained, will wait till i install new bearings before i conclude. truck drives ok, except for a slight drone, i though a failed bearing on both rears would make a helluva sound

btw, i can see the front wheel sensor is a hex/allen key?, what size is it?. all my allen keys didnt fit. attched is a readout fron my obd bluetooth app
 

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ran into a hitch, seems i over torqued the sensor bolt, and broke it while attempting to reinstall the sensor, so gotta drill out the broken bolt, during the wheel bearing ops, i cleaned and reinstalled the sensor, but error still remained, will wait till i install new bearings before i conclude. truck drives ok, except for a slight drone, i though a failed bearing on both rears would make a helluva sound

btw, i can see the front wheel sensor is a hex/allen key?, what size is it?. all my allen keys didnt fit. attched is a readout fron my obd bluetooth app

I honestly don't remember. Maybe 5mm definitely metric. My tools are buried right now but I'll be rebooting my CV axles in a parking lot tomorrow so I can check then.

The open electrical circuit you are reading, if the sensors are ok as you say they are, means the harness circuit is broken. Can you push the wire back into the connector? 1/2" is enough to break the circuit. When my Speedo stops working I get out and push the wire back in and it works again. Be careful though: you no longer have abs until the computer reads a proper circuit for long enough. Can't remember if disconnecting the battery resets that and brings it back once you push the wire back in. Not having abs when you're used to it is a recipe for disaster. It takes a lot to get my blood pumping, getting sideways on a busy interstate will get it done.

Be careful with that bolt. I've drilled plenty of bolts out from shearing the head off. For this you better use a bolt extractor. Or carefully weld something to it and twist it out
 
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I honestly don't remember. Maybe 5mm definitely metric. My tools are buried right now but I'll be rebooting my CV axles in a parking lot tomorrow so I can check then.

The open electrical circuit you are reading, if the sensors are ok as you say they are, means the harness circuit is broken. Can you push the wire back into the connector? 1/2" is enough to break the circuit. When my Speedo stops working I get out and push the wire back in and it works again. Be careful though: you no longer have abs until the computer reads a proper circuit for long enough. Can't remember if disconnecting the battery resets that and brings it back once you push the wire back in. Not having abs when you're used to it is a recipe for disaster. It takes a lot to get my blood pumping, getting sideways on a busy interstate will get it done.

Be careful with that bolt. I've drilled plenty of bolts out from shearing the head off. For this you better use a bolt extractor. Or carefully weld something to it and twist it out

welded a short 14mm bolt on the broken bolt stub, and used a spanner to back it off, took several attemps as it was parting at the welds. yes i have some play in the carness, i pushed it in by 1\2inch or so on the LHS sensor, and no dice. may have to buy a new sensor and take it from there

sensors read ok 0.34ohm when tested alone, harness reads ok, when disconnected from sensor, however no continuity when sensor is plugged into harness, and read from the combined harness connector, above the axle
i am looking at 3 options now,
1. Buy a new harness
2. Trace from the harness connector above axle to the abs ecu/vss (you have any idea where this is?)
3. double my continuity reading again
 
welded a short 14mm bolt on the broken bolt stub, and used a spanner to back it off, took several attemps as it was parting at the welds. yes i have some play in the carness, i pushed it in by 1\2inch or so on the LHS sensor, and no dice. may have to buy a new sensor and take it from there

sensors read ok 0.34ohm when tested alone, harness reads ok, when disconnected from sensor, however no continuity when sensor is plugged into harness, and read from the combined harness connector, above the axle
i am looking at 3 options now,
1. Buy a new harness
2. Trace from the harness connector above axle to the abs ecu/vss (you have any idea where this is?)
3. double my continuity reading again

Pretty sure it's part of the master cylinder.

Are both sensors connected when you're checking continuity?
 
Pretty sure it's part of the master cylinder.

Are both sensors connected when you're checking continuity?

no nd yes, did the test in stages.

sensors read ok 0.34ohm when tested alone, harness reads ok, when disconnected from sensor, however no continuity when sensor is plugged into harness, and read from the combined harness connector, above the axle
been pretty busy, left the car, will do further trouble shooting over the weekend.

@ bolded, you mean the harness for the rear wheel speed sensor??. toyodiy has a schematic showing they terminate somewhere near the center storage area, a lil puzzling, cos there is no ecu there to my knowledge
 

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