Scramble
New member
Hankook has D rated 33's.
Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!
- Thread starter absalom
- Start date
Hankook has D rated 33's.
absalom
New member
Unfortunately, they only carry the D rated 33's in the 17" flavor. 16's only come in E rated, unless I'm missing something. I'm of the opinion that a 17" D rated tire will ride just as rough as an E rated 16" tire, due to the reduced sidewall height. Of course, I base this on no factual information, and it's just an opinion.
absalom
New member
For inners, Moog will suffice, specifically rods stamped with 555. For outers, Toyota ones are so darn affordable, it makes sense to just do that.
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JayRolla
New member
Ive had two aftermarket inners loosen up after minor wheeling. One was a moog. I now have installed my 250k miled oems from my old rack and just checked them other day. Still solid after miles of wheeling. I would never trust a moog.
You can get OEM's for around $70 from here which others have had luck buying from.
https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=45503-39075
absalom
New member
Just a day of wheeling? That's absolutely crazy. Great advice on the Amayama
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NoVAphotog
New member
So happy this thread was bumped...awesome resource.
Following the DD/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias route. Is the radiator as big of a concern with Manuals?
Following the DD/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias route. Is the radiator as big of a concern with Manuals?
JayRolla
New member
Maybe a few days but it was about a months total time. Maybe multiple trips. Comparing the moog to OEM I found the OEM has a slightly different casting allowing it to droop at a much further angle as where the moog would hit the side of the casting causing them to have less droop and pulling out the socket. Im sure they work fine on a stock suspension street rig.
coolerthanafan
New member
Another question on the "Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Trail Bias build" .. My rear has a slight sag, will following this build fix that and for how long? I'm not doing lift but should I add a 1" taller spring in the rear and if so, which brand, where do I get it?
Thanks for this write up and putting up with all my questions. Just trying to do this build once, the right way.
-Adam
Thanks for this write up and putting up with all my questions. Just trying to do this build once, the right way.
-Adam
BoomSticks
Member
This should be included in the sticky reference/list thread.
absalom
New member
Glad to hear it helped. Looks like I'll be getting another 3rd gen soon!
arty:
Road Bull
Senior Member
Glad to hear it helped. Looks like I'll be getting another 3rd gen soon!
Yusssssss....
Now that you know everything from past experience from your own 3rd gen, what do you have in mind for this one. I know what wheels you seem to like. Will it end up looking like your last one? I really dug that runner. Keep us posted.
absalom
New member
Lol, I really shot myself in the foot by posting my plans before hand with my 2nd build. So, lesson learned, I'll be building this one in secrecy and then posting a build thread when she's finished-ish.
Road Bull
Senior Member
Awwww.
No diesel pressure. That is a huge undertaking. I was talking more along the lines of suspension and wheel / tire combos. I remember you came to enjoy 265/75/16 Duratracs in the C rating.
I thought I would have been where I wanted with my build, but I am moving at glacial speed. Forward, but slowly.
absalom
New member
Fine, I'm weak and I'll cave. Plan is 99' 5spd Highlander with 2.5" Kings front and rear. 2" of lift up front, 3.5" Superflexes out back. Wheels at this point; between 5th gen TE wheels, Method Standard wheels in 16", or just Level 8's in silver. Definitely doing the Duratracs in the same size again, provided the gearing works out with proposed project. Revamp entire front end, belly pan, and air bumps on all corners.
Road Bull
Senior Member
Sweet! I look forward to your future build.
Renton4runner
New member
Howdy Absalom,
Ive been crawling the forums the last few weeks as I plan my build, and it seems that you tend to focus on the handling/acceleration/braking characteristics of different suspension/tire/wheel combos, which is also a big focus of mine. Ive basically been sold on getting a stage2 icon setup as the pricing on it sees really good right now, and includes UCAs that will help get my alignment back in to order once I lift the truck and and get new tires/wheels.
I still have a couple of areas I am researching though, and was hoping you could add some input.
As far as the wheel/tire combination goes, it seems from my reading that the heavier the tire/wheel, the more the affect will be on braking/acceleration/fuel efficiency. It also my experience that it is very difficult to easily search for tires and wheels based on weight. Have you been able to identify any tires in the 32 or 33 inch size that are C or D load rated, and closer to stock weight? I am partial to the 285/70/17 Duratracs, but it looks like they weigh about 12 pounds over the stock tires I have. Do you have any suggestions? Same question for wheels. Id prefer a 17, but might go for 16 depending on your answer for the tires. I am partial to the simple look of the black level 8 trackers.
As far the rest of the lift/suspensions goes, I am curious what springs you would recommend for the back to pair with the icons? I plan on adding armor at some point, so I know that will affect things.
What about body lift? As much as I am chasing functionality, I have to admit that aesthetics plays a role, and I really want to run 33's without rubbing. It seems from my reading that(most) people need a 1 inch body lift to be able to do this without rubbing. Is there any body lift that is better than the others, or are they all just basically the same thing? Any reason to go .5 inch vs 1 inch? My goal is 3 inches of lift, so I am trying to decide if it is going to be a better ride to have icons set to a 2 inch lift, with 1 inch of body lift, or to max out the icons at 2.5-3 inches of lift and run only a small .5 inch body lift.
Sorry that is a million questions, but Ive read a million posts and have been stock piling questions for weeks!
Thanks,
Jesse
Ive been crawling the forums the last few weeks as I plan my build, and it seems that you tend to focus on the handling/acceleration/braking characteristics of different suspension/tire/wheel combos, which is also a big focus of mine. Ive basically been sold on getting a stage2 icon setup as the pricing on it sees really good right now, and includes UCAs that will help get my alignment back in to order once I lift the truck and and get new tires/wheels.
I still have a couple of areas I am researching though, and was hoping you could add some input.
As far as the wheel/tire combination goes, it seems from my reading that the heavier the tire/wheel, the more the affect will be on braking/acceleration/fuel efficiency. It also my experience that it is very difficult to easily search for tires and wheels based on weight. Have you been able to identify any tires in the 32 or 33 inch size that are C or D load rated, and closer to stock weight? I am partial to the 285/70/17 Duratracs, but it looks like they weigh about 12 pounds over the stock tires I have. Do you have any suggestions? Same question for wheels. Id prefer a 17, but might go for 16 depending on your answer for the tires. I am partial to the simple look of the black level 8 trackers.
As far the rest of the lift/suspensions goes, I am curious what springs you would recommend for the back to pair with the icons? I plan on adding armor at some point, so I know that will affect things.
What about body lift? As much as I am chasing functionality, I have to admit that aesthetics plays a role, and I really want to run 33's without rubbing. It seems from my reading that(most) people need a 1 inch body lift to be able to do this without rubbing. Is there any body lift that is better than the others, or are they all just basically the same thing? Any reason to go .5 inch vs 1 inch? My goal is 3 inches of lift, so I am trying to decide if it is going to be a better ride to have icons set to a 2 inch lift, with 1 inch of body lift, or to max out the icons at 2.5-3 inches of lift and run only a small .5 inch body lift.
Sorry that is a million questions, but Ive read a million posts and have been stock piling questions for weeks!
Thanks,
Jesse
absalom
New member
Load rating, specifically a tire's weight certainly play a huge role in our truck's performance characteristics. However, it's important to also recognize the profound affect that larger tires have, especially when not properly regeared.
With each build I do, I become less and less excited to deal with the downsides of larger tires. The benefits, in most situations, aren't realized until front and rear lockers are fitted anyways. The truck becomes more exhausting to drive daily, stuff wears out so much quicker, low range becomes less useful offroad (unless properly regeared), etc etc.
My takeaway from all this is: run super light tires, I don't even mind P-rated tires offroad. Small (16 vs 17) diameter wheels, as long as they clear the calipers, I hugely prefer the extra benefits of running a small wheel with lots of sidewall. Keep diameters below 33", though I'm partial to 32" tires. I'll only run 33's if the truck has been regeared, and 32's with 4.3 gears. I also avoid E range tires like the plague, and even D unless the weight is reasonable.
My theme with this next build will be low, wide, and stable. Figuring a 1.5" lift up front, 2" out back, and then flatbelly the whole truck. I hate going slow, and I hate being unstable on off-camber trails. I'm going to run C load 32"/16" D-tracs with a decent, lightweight rim.
Renton4runner
New member
Which specific duratracs are you looking at? Looks like either the 265/75/16 or 265/70/17?
Also, how do I go about finding a lightweight rim? I cant find weight listed on any of the major wheel retail sites.
