AC question for bigtuna

By the way I don't know if your setup is similar to the 4th gen, but my system samples the air temp through a small grill near the key and I had to remove the piece that has the grill in it. Behind the grill is a hose that's clipped to it which when removed revealed that it was full of dust bunnies. So I vacuumed those out and they were covering a thermistor which was so insulated by the dust that it couldn't have been doing an accurate job. It used to take a long time for my system to kick in to high fan speed and max cooling when the car was really hot inside , but after cleaning out all the dust it does it almost instantly now.
 
I'm going to let you guys in on a product that will save you TONS of money down the road. It has cleaned up electronic parts that had failed due to corrosion for me on numerous occasions, and I've even used it to clean the exact kind of micro switches in the A/C control unit mentioned here. :yesyes:

The stuff is made by a company called Caig labs, inc.. The product is DeOxit, and it is worth its weight in GOLD. Parts that I would have previously disassembled and manually scrubbed to get clean and working again have come out just as clean, or cleaner without disassembly!!! Just soak the part with a short spray, then manually work the part multiple times. I usually wipe it down with a paper towel or napkin after doing this to get the excess cleaned up. The stuff also protects the contacts from future corrosion!

Works GREAT!!! :bigok:

PS - Another product of theirs - ProGold - works fantastically as well.

Radio Shack stocks a kit with a small spray bottle of each product, and although a bit expensive, still very worth it (plus just about everyone lives near a Rat Shack). ;):
 
I forgot - As a testimony to this stuff:

Last winter, I towed a u-haul trailer around one day when the roads here were pretty messy. After dropping the trailer off, I forgot to put the protective cover back on the wiring harness under the back of the truck, and it sat out in the road mess getting sprayed with tons of Magnesium Chloride, the de-icer they use around here, which is terribly corrosive (murder on chrome, copper, and bare aluminum).

Anyway, when I noticed this about a week later, the connectors were crammed full of green copper corrosion. I scraped a bunch of it out, then soaked the connector with deoxit. Upon wiping it out with a rolled up paper towel a few times, the copper was as clean as could be! Lesson learned!
 
CO_FlyFisher said:
I'm going to let you guys in on a product that will save you TONS of money down the road. It has cleaned up electronic parts that had failed due to corrosion for me on numerous occasions, and I've even used it to clean the exact kind of micro switches in the A/C control unit mentioned here. :yesyes:

The stuff is made by a company called Caig labs, inc.. The product is DeOxit, and it is worth its weight in GOLD. Parts that I would have previously disassembled and manually scrubbed to get clean and working again have come out just as clean, or cleaner without disassembly!!! Just soak the part with a short spray, then manually work the part multiple times. I usually wipe it down with a paper towel or napkin after doing this to get the excess cleaned up. The stuff also protects the contacts from future corrosion!

Works GREAT!!! :bigok:

PS - Another product of theirs - ProGold - works fantastically as well.

Radio Shack stocks a kit with a small spray bottle of each product, and although a bit expensive, still very worth it (plus just about everyone lives near a Rat Shack). ;):
Ordinarily I would agree with you. Deoxit uses Cramolin oil which is good stuff, however I have had Deoxit attack plastic parts. I recently cleaned the switches and pots in a Mackie 32x8 mixing board (at the urging of my boss) and ended up having to replace all the pots etc. in the board, a long job which I will never forget. Also it's pretty hard to get cleaners into tactile switches.
 
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The tactile switches are almost all plastic in construction. I do not work with electronics but I have taken apart just about anything, especially as a kid, to see how it works. The connector for the ribbon could be the culprit here, if not properly locked. I really think it has nothing to do with the switches. Pushing hard on the buttons would be just enough to cause the ribbon to connect momentarily, and it is force in the right direction. Now where in the hell do you get the leds for the back of the circuit board, no go at auto stores or electronic distributors.
 
jamr1 said:
The tactile switches are almost all plastic in construction. I do not work with electronics but I have taken apart just about anything, especially as a kid, to see how it works. The connector for the ribbon could be the culprit here, if not properly locked. I really think it has nothing to do with the switches. Pushing hard on the buttons would be just enough to cause the ribbon to connect momentarily, and it is force in the right direction. Now where in the hell do you get the leds for the back of the circuit board, no go at auto stores or electronic distributors.
You're sure they're LEDs and not lamps. Any chance you could post a picture? If they are lamps I bought mine at Toyota because they were in stock and the right size etc. Leds almost never burn out.
 
They appeared to be green painted leds, 2 were on back of the board, and 2 were white, and 2 were black, they screwed into the back of the circuit board with a 1/4 turn. You could tell there were two wires coming throught the base of the lamp and curled around the ends. They were getting power from the board. LEDS????
 
Oh, sorry I did not take any pics, if I get the leds for the AC, I will take step by step on disassembly.
 
jamr1 said:
They appeared to be green painted leds, 2 were on back of the board, and 2 were white, and 2 were black, they screwed into the back of the circuit board with a 1/4 turn. You could tell there were two wires coming throught the base of the lamp and curled around the ends. They were getting power from the board. LEDS????
No those are lamps with little caps on them so they match your dash display color. Buy them at Toyota but bring your old ones with you because some are longer than others (at least they are on mine).
 

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