AC Repair

[crespoh69]

Hey guys, so a couple of months back I posted that my AC died on a trip back from Barstow, CA. I wasn't sure if it was the fuse since when I pushed the AC button the light on the button wouldn't turn on but the compressor clutch would spin freely by hand and I saw it move slowly when the car was on but I left it alone while I started saving up funds. The other night, all of a sudden my car started making clunking noises randomly which made me freak out thinking it was knocking or a spun bearing but then it just stopped.

I pulled over and saw that my AC belt had snapped and so now I believe it's just the compressor itself that's shot. I saw [MENTION=25434]BamaDrewski[/MENTION]'s writeup from 2014 but was wondering if I need to replace everything or would I just need to order the compressor and belt for this sort of job? Also, I can't seem to find the compressor part number on amazon, would anyone be able to provide a link? Not sure if part numbers may have changed from 2014 or not.

 

[nissanh]

Don't buy any refurbished or aftermarket compressors. Denso or OEM is the way to go. I'd replace the filter and clean the pressure hose with some compressed air to clear it from any derbies from your old compressor.

Try locating one from a yard. There is a number embossed on the compressor (I think 17) and that is what you need. Check proper mounting brackets. Whats strange is the mounting brackets are same for corolla/camry/4runner/tacoma except the pulley, which you can install yours into it. Check the compression by closing the outlet by your finger and spin the clutch about 15-30 degrees and feel the pressure at the finger.

 

[azrex]

First check the idler pulley and make sure it spins freely. The Denso compressor is 471-1164 the receiver/drier is 478-0500. If you end up taking the system apart, it's a good time to replace all the o-rings as well (Santech MT2580). If this is a keeper, it might be worth it to just go through the entire system and replace the expansion valve and check the condition of the evaporator and condenser. Toyota hoses are usually pretty long lived but check them for signs of oil.

 

[crespoh69]

If this is a keeper, it might be worth it to just go through the entire system and replace the expansion valve and check the condition of the evaporator and condenser.

What if I don't replace these? I'm really just hoping to do the compressor and receiver/drier and belt since that broke off, but have never done this sort of work beforehand. Is there any worry about pressurized lines? Would this be an easy swap or are there any other precautions I should take?

 

[jgue467]

...
I pulled over and saw that my AC belt had snapped and so now I believe it's just the compressor itself that's shot. ...

Perhaps i missed some details but What makes you think the compressor is shot?

If all you find wrong is busted belt, Why not replace the belt and test a/c?

 

[azrex]

First check the idler pulley and make sure it's not the problem. Then try turning the compressor pulley. Assuming those are both ok, try turning the front hub of the compressor. It should spin by hand but there should be some resistance. If it's locked, it's time for a compressor and drier at the minimum. If it turns, try a new belt as suggested above.

 

[crespoh69]

Perhaps i missed some details but What makes you think the compressor is shot?

If all you find wrong is busted belt, Why not replace the belt and test a/c?

I say the compressor is shot because my AC stopped working about 2 months ago. I was coming down from Barstow and all of a sudden I noticed my AC light was off on it's button and that the air that was blowing was just regular air instead of AC.

The front hub of the compressor moves fine by hand though, without resistance.

 

[Malcolm99]

This is all a guess. So initially it could have been just low pressure not turning the ac clutch on, so you most likely have leak somewhere(usually the evaporator on these and you would want to change the expansion valve and of course the drier/receiver at the same time as mentioned, plus pag oil accordingly), and perhaps later the clutch bearing or idler seized up and tore up a belt(this is odd, but who knows), so hopefully you don't need a compressor, if so they come loaded with oil for you usually. I wouldn't blow anything into the lines or system, put the system under vacuum and see what it does and get the moisture out.

 

[calimobber]

Yeah there seems to be too much unkown. If you can freely spin the compressor by hand without issue when im not sure if the belt snapping is linked.

You can order a vacuum pump and gauge off amazong for like $110. Thats what I did last week when I filled my system. You will need this anyways when you refill the system. that + 2 cans of R143a($6 each)


Since at this point you dont know 100% Id get the kit and put a vacuum on the system and see if there is a leak. If not and it holds thow a belt on and try and fill it. When you fill add some dye so you can see where the leak is coming from.

The vacuum pump will show if the compressor is working or not too since it will show the high and low pressures.

Once you find the leak you can consider swapping parks as needed and refill.

How to Properly Recharge Your AC System - YouTube

or timmy's fully detailed process might be worth it for someone newer

Air Conditioning Recharge - YouTube

 

[FordF150]

If this is the car's first AC failure, you might need to replace the AC compressor and the evaporator. Parts would be $300. Installation of evaporator would run $880 but you would have cool.

How old is this runner? How many miles? AC parts ever replaced?

I did my 2005 AC last month and it's freezing cold.

 

[azrex]

Are you spinning the pulley or the front hub? The pulley could spin freely but if the compressor is locked up, once it's engaged the belt either breaks or melts.