Adding several A/C power sockets?

[Lewis&Clark]

So I want to fit my 4R with a few A/C power sockets -- the kind with 3 prongs.

I'm looking to add 1 under the glove box; 2 in the cargo area; and if the truck can handle it, 1 or 2 more in the backseat that I'd mount either in the doors, or perhaps in the carpeted area under the seat before you reach the floor. (I haven't pulled up the carpet to see what's behind it yet, but the backseat is a low priority right now compared to the front and cargo sockets).

The interior compartment sockets would be used to charge anything from cameras to laptops, but nothing heavier than that. My expectation is that they should provide full power charging of those devices so they charge at normal speeds as if plugged in at home.

1 of the 2 in the cargo area may be dedicated use -- a satellite phone I keep access to when I'm off the grid. I may do a USB charger for that instead if it's easier to add one fewer; haven't decided. The 2nd would be used much less frequently -- for flood lights, a stove, etc.


So a few questions I'm hoping y'all can answer to get me moving in the right direction:

1. How much voltage is needed for each socket? Is the 115V my Limited has in the center console enough for the kinds of devices I intend to use? (I don't use that socket because it's a tight corner of the console and most of my power cords can't reach it.)

2. Would (should?) I need to add a second battery?

3. I'm not a fan of those inverter devices you can buy. They're big and bulky and there aren't many nooks and crannies where I can stash them away. I also like OEM looks, so my preference would be to wire it all directly to the battery rather than use the inverter w/ their sockets. Doable? Note I'd prefer to run these on their own lines with their own fuses so I don't overload anything else in the vehicle.

4. It would be useful - but not required - if I had an on/off switch somewhere, akin to the 115V OEM switch for the center console power.


Really need some initial guidance to start working up plans, safety checks, parts lists, etc. Thanks!


dt

 

[vanion2]

First let me start off by saying that your battery is DC. If you want to run AC sockets you are going to need an inverter. Trying to use the stock one you have to feed the other sockets is going to burn a fuse, or worse melt your wiring.

All your AC sockets will run about 110V. You can feed them all from a single inverter. Next you need to calculate the max amount of current you expect your load to be. Add all those devices together and then add 20%. Once you have that load calculated you will know the size of the inverter and wiring you will need to safely begin your project.

1. About 110V AC
2. Maybe but a larger output alternator for sure.
3. Sorry but there is no getting away from an inverter. Buy one for a solar setup and chances are you can mount it under the hood or a seat and run your wiring accordingly.
4. Wiring a switch between the battery and inverter would accomplish you goals.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Lewis&Clark]

Vanion -- this is really helpful. Thank you for taking the time. If you don't mind, a few follow-up questions before I start putting together parts lists and installation plans...

First let me start off by saying that your battery is DC. If you want to run AC sockets you are going to need an inverter. Trying to use the stock one you have to feed the other sockets is going to burn a fuse, or worse melt your wiring.

Understood. I know the car battery is DC and it'd have to be converted, just wasn't sure if the inversion capability the truck already obviously has would be sufficient. That answers that question, thanks.

All your AC sockets will run about 110V. You can feed them all from a single inverter. Next you need to calculate the max amount of current you expect your load to be. Add all those devices together and then add 20%. Once you have that load calculated you will know the size of the inverter and wiring you will need to safely begin your project.

So I'm electrically challenged, but you have to start somewhere to learn. So, hmmm... thinking about the laptop devices first, they are running 99.5-watt-hour batteries, with 85W power cords. But current is measured in amps, right? So how do I calculate how much current that wattage is drawing?

Also, adding 20%.... Makes sense so you have some leeway from what you think your maximum load needs are. But what happens if you put in an inverter sized too large? Is there a downside to all that extra electrical capacity not going to use? Do inverters have regulators built-in that keep power output constrained to only what's needed, or do you literally have whatever the inverter's theoretical maximum amount is constantly running through the wires you've laid all over your truck?

2. Maybe but a larger output alternator for sure.

How do I know how much output my alternator needs? How would I know what alternator to ask my mechanic for, or which one to buy from a parts store?

3. Sorry but there is no getting away from an inverter. Buy one for a solar setup and chances are you can mount it under the hood or a seat and run your wiring accordingly.

That raises another question. Inverters are generally designed for indoor use, are they not? Do I need to worry about things that could happen in a car -- like condensation, temperature variations, and so forth? Do I need to insulate or wrap the inverter at all? Or can it just sit there safely wherever it's been installed? Do any of those factors affect the performance of the inverter -- in other words, would, say, really low sub-zero temperatures -- like I'm likely to see this winter when I head up to Barrow, Alaska -- reduce its ability to keep powering connected devices?

I figure the most likely place to install an inverter would be in the rear quarter panel. More space in there and easier to access than the engine compartment?

(It's worth noting that my truck would be as easily used in arctic tundra as deserts. In other words, I need to plan for a wide variety of conditions.)


Also -- and maybe this is a stupid question -- what might happen if I mount an inverter in the rear quarter panel and some moron side-swipes my car in that area, destroying the inverter in the process? I don't care about replacing an inverter, but is there a greater risk of fire or explosion if that happens? Should I find somewhere less impacted by accidents?

I have power seats, and I can't imagine fitting anything else under there. So I'm thinking my only plausible options are the rear quarter panel, mounted to a back seat in the cargo area (not ideal as I lower my seats frequently to fill up the full cargo capacity), under the passenger half of the dash (uncomfortable for my passengers), or in the engine bay (harder to access, very tight spaces).


dt

 

[97BlackAckCL]

You're definitely going to need an inverter or some kind of power station

 

[vanion2]

Vanion -- this is really helpful. Thank you for taking the time. If you don't mind, a few follow-up questions before I start putting together parts lists and installation plans...




Understood. I know the car battery is DC and it'd have to be converted, just wasn't sure if the inversion capability the truck already obviously has would be sufficient. That answers that question, thanks.




So I'm electrically challenged, but you have to start somewhere to learn. So, hmmm... thinking about the laptop devices first, they are running 99.5-watt-hour batteries, with 85W power cords. But current is measured in amps, right? So how do I calculate how much current that wattage is drawing?

Also, adding 20%.... Makes sense so you have some leeway from what you think your maximum load needs are. But what happens if you put in an inverter sized too large? Is there a downside to all that extra electrical capacity not going to use? Do inverters have regulators built-in that keep power output constrained to only what's needed, or do you literally have whatever the inverter's theoretical maximum amount is constantly running through the wires you've laid all over your truck?




How do I know how much output my alternator needs? How would I know what alternator to ask my mechanic for, or which one to buy from a parts store?




That raises another question. Inverters are generally designed for indoor use, are they not? Do I need to worry about things that could happen in a car -- like condensation, temperature variations, and so forth? Do I need to insulate or wrap the inverter at all? Or can it just sit there safely wherever it's been installed? Do any of those factors affect the performance of the inverter -- in other words, would, say, really low sub-zero temperatures -- like I'm likely to see this winter when I head up to Barrow, Alaska -- reduce its ability to keep powering connected devices?

I figure the most likely place to install an inverter would be in the rear quarter panel. More space in there and easier to access than the engine compartment?

(It's worth noting that my truck would be as easily used in arctic tundra as deserts. In other words, I need to plan for a wide variety of conditions.)


Also -- and maybe this is a stupid question -- what might happen if I mount an inverter in the rear quarter panel and some moron side-swipes my car in that area, destroying the inverter in the process? I don't care about replacing an inverter, but is there a greater risk of fire or explosion if that happens? Should I find somewhere less impacted by accidents?

I have power seats, and I can't imagine fitting anything else under there. So I'm thinking my only plausible options are the rear quarter panel, mounted to a back seat in the cargo area (not ideal as I lower my seats frequently to fill up the full cargo capacity), under the passenger half of the dash (uncomfortable for my passengers), or in the engine bay (harder to access, very tight spaces).


dt

On each power cord there will be a current and voltage rating because they usually convert AC to DC for each device. While AC current is slightly different from DC it will be a good aproximation.

You want the 20% overhead because some devices have spikes in start up and you absolutely want to make sure your wiring can handle the load.

There is nothing wrong with over sizing the inverter. Most are digital so make sure to find one that has a sine wave smoothing regulator circuit. Wagan makes a 1k inverter that comes with a remote so you can turn it off when not in use. Costs about $263. And mounting it in the rear quarter panel is ideal so I would stick with that as a plan.

You are not going to get a quality high output alternator from a parts store unless you want to modify it to fit. There are places that make them for a direct fit but run in the $400+ price range. Worth it though unless you want to run multiple batteries which is another whole can of worms.