ADH8796
New member
Too big to go in through the valve stem. Just tossed them in when mounting my beadlocks.
ADH8796 4runner Build
- Thread starter ADH8796
- Start date
Too big to go in through the valve stem. Just tossed them in when mounting my beadlocks.
ADH8796
New member
Thanks I'm really liking the way it's coming together so far.
Well with these heavy beadlocks and 35's my brakes weren't going to do the trick for long. So I made the decision to get started on the tundra brake swap soon rather than later. Big thanks to BigFishAllDay for his very detailed writeup on the process. I got all my stuff from Autozone and so far I'm very happy with the outcome.
Old vs. New
BigFish gave me some good info on these calipers. Here is the PM he sent me regarding what to look for when buying these from Autozone instead of NAPA
One more thing I wanted to mention... When you go in to buy your parts, ask if they have multiple sets of the calipers that you can check out. The ones I got from Autozone appeared to be NEW castings, not remanufactured OEM castings like the NAPAs. I'm thinking that some of what Autozone sells are actual factory remans (which I would opt for if given the choice), and some are new castings.
Check out these pics... See how the NAPA calipers have the stamping "13WL", along with "R1", and on the outboard side there is more stampings, that teardrop shape, and some sort of number on the RH side. Also, note that the casting is much smoother overall.
Versus the Autozone calipers... Notice they ONLY have the "13WL" stamping? I'm thinking somebody somewhere made a new mold and is casting new calipers for Autozone.
Notice the notch in the casting on the RH side of that outermost surface? The NAPA's don't have that notch. Also, notice no serial numbers or markings.
And here's the rest of my pics
ADH8796
New member
I also needed to get the rear all squared away. With my previous 4runner I was able to trim a good amount out of the rear and not worry about extended bump stops. I quickly learned with the wider wheel it wasn't going to be quite that easy this time. I did a very minimal amount of trimming in the rear (sorry no pics I'll try to get some later) and made my own extended bump stops.
Crappy pic of the stock bump
Had some scrap 1x1 square tube laying around so it was convenient
I welded the bottom side of the tubes together and then just a few spot welds on the top for kicks. I didn't weld the top completely because it really just would have been overkill and more stuff for me to grind in order for the surface to be smooth against the frame. After the tubes were welded together I welded them to the top of the old bump stop. And got some grade 8 bolts to fasten them to the original location.
Finished product
All mounted up
1" was the perfect amount of added bump to clear the tires (I'll add better pics later)
Was also going through the back of the runner to see what all I could move around/get ride of. I carry a lot of stuff on a day to day so every little bit of space counts. Found a new spot for my hose.
I was a little worried about metal on metal noise that might be created by the air connections hitting the hood on bumpers. So I tucked them inside of the hose and re-connected them.
Also got my rear diff breather knocked out
Crappy pic of the stock bump
Had some scrap 1x1 square tube laying around so it was convenient
I welded the bottom side of the tubes together and then just a few spot welds on the top for kicks. I didn't weld the top completely because it really just would have been overkill and more stuff for me to grind in order for the surface to be smooth against the frame. After the tubes were welded together I welded them to the top of the old bump stop. And got some grade 8 bolts to fasten them to the original location.
Finished product
All mounted up
1" was the perfect amount of added bump to clear the tires (I'll add better pics later)
Was also going through the back of the runner to see what all I could move around/get ride of. I carry a lot of stuff on a day to day so every little bit of space counts. Found a new spot for my hose.
I was a little worried about metal on metal noise that might be created by the air connections hitting the hood on bumpers. So I tucked them inside of the hose and re-connected them.
Also got my rear diff breather knocked out
Last edited:
ADH8796
New member
Got a little more work done yesterday. Needed to replace my factory washer fluid due to some rubbing caused by the 35's. Had an idea in my head for the relocation of my washer fluid so I took a trip to hardware store for some 3" PVC pipe.
I could only find PVC in 5' sections White or Black. White PVC was literally half the price so it was a no brainer. Since I only had the option of a 5' section I decided it was a good time to go ahead and do the internal snorkel. I don't plan on getting deep enough to really need a full on snorkel but it's nice to know it's there if I need it and I'll be well protected in general.
For the Snorkel
Started with 5' of 3" PVC and two 90 degree bends flared only on one side. Along with a reducer 3"-2"
Then I took off the fender and removed the OEM hardware.
I wanted a better fitted peace for the air box since it won't be sealed shut (in case I need to remove air box for some reason. So I cut off a section of the air box that sticks out through the inner fender and then glued and siliconed the reducer in place. Not a good picture sorry.
If you heat up the PVC it will bend easily. If you pack it with sand first you can eliminate kinking in the tube. I wasn't real concerned with a little kink. Drilled a hole for access into the cab. Glued and siliconed everything and this is the final product.
Inside the fender well
Many say that this won't add much noise to the cab but I'll tell you it is VERY LOUD when you punch the gas. So here's my solution. Pictures are before and after.
I used a 2" pressure test cap to block off the hole. You put it in and twist the wing nut which expands the rubber gasket behind the top lid closing off the tube. The idea here is that for normal everyday driving it will be plugged (won't be able to pull air from the cab) and my deck plate will be the only source for intake. But once off the beaten path with worries of large amounts of dirt, dust, or water the plug will come out with just a twist and the deck plate will be installed (all air will be pulled from the cab). Total cost of both the snorkel and washer fluid reservoir was less than $30
I could only find PVC in 5' sections White or Black. White PVC was literally half the price so it was a no brainer. Since I only had the option of a 5' section I decided it was a good time to go ahead and do the internal snorkel. I don't plan on getting deep enough to really need a full on snorkel but it's nice to know it's there if I need it and I'll be well protected in general.
For the Snorkel
Started with 5' of 3" PVC and two 90 degree bends flared only on one side. Along with a reducer 3"-2"
Then I took off the fender and removed the OEM hardware.
I wanted a better fitted peace for the air box since it won't be sealed shut (in case I need to remove air box for some reason. So I cut off a section of the air box that sticks out through the inner fender and then glued and siliconed the reducer in place. Not a good picture sorry.
If you heat up the PVC it will bend easily. If you pack it with sand first you can eliminate kinking in the tube. I wasn't real concerned with a little kink. Drilled a hole for access into the cab. Glued and siliconed everything and this is the final product.
Inside the fender well
Many say that this won't add much noise to the cab but I'll tell you it is VERY LOUD when you punch the gas. So here's my solution. Pictures are before and after.
I used a 2" pressure test cap to block off the hole. You put it in and twist the wing nut which expands the rubber gasket behind the top lid closing off the tube. The idea here is that for normal everyday driving it will be plugged (won't be able to pull air from the cab) and my deck plate will be the only source for intake. But once off the beaten path with worries of large amounts of dirt, dust, or water the plug will come out with just a twist and the deck plate will be installed (all air will be pulled from the cab). Total cost of both the snorkel and washer fluid reservoir was less than $30
Last edited:
ADH8796
New member
Now this is what I came up with for the washer fluid. I took a peace of 3" PVC and glued and siliconed a 3" test cap to the bottom. Didn't get a picture of it but it's just a very thin walled peace of plastic pops on the end of the PVC. Once that was done I drilled out two holes in the bottom of the PVC one for the front washer fluid motor and one for the rear. Covered the outside of the rubber gasket with silicone installed and then installed the motors.
Re-ran my wires and tubing
Then I needed a cap. So I used a 3" pressure test cap. I had to drill a few holes in the cap to prevent suction inside the tube and then installed.
I used a large zip tie to run around the tube to hold it in place at the bottom. This is a picture of the drivers side front inner fender well.
Final product Total cost of both the snorkel and washer fluid reservoir was less than $30
Re-ran my wires and tubing
Then I needed a cap. So I used a 3" pressure test cap. I had to drill a few holes in the cap to prevent suction inside the tube and then installed.
I used a large zip tie to run around the tube to hold it in place at the bottom. This is a picture of the drivers side front inner fender well.
Final product Total cost of both the snorkel and washer fluid reservoir was less than $30
Last edited:
ADH8796
New member
I have a confession to make, I called raceline and had them send you the black rings cause I knew it would look unreal
Just kidding but awesome build man. Love it.
Haha thanks! It's a work in progress for sure.
ADH8796
New member
Well after a fairly short period of time I started to notice some surface rust forming on my tundra calipers so I tossed some paint on them before it got any worse. Didn't get any pics of the final product just a quick pic of getting them back on.
Also decided to trade out my 1.50" wheel spacers for some 1.25" spacers up front. It brought my overall width front and rear within a 1/4" of an inch of each other. Front being just barely wider. Still clear the frame rail at full lock.
And my rear bumper from Scotty at Addicted finally came in and all I can't say enough about the quality of work and the customer service. Great product and great guy to do business with. My front bumper was expected to ship today so I'll email Scotty to see if it did for sure and hopefully have it on by the end of this week.
Also looking for creative idea's for (front) turn signals. I want LED's so they are bright and I want them to be something that blends and looks nice with a tube front bumper. I've looked around quite a bit and so far I really like these the best.http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_led_light_bar.htm They are small and I can get them in sequential or normal patterns. But they seem a little pricey for what they are. If anyone has other suggestions I'd love to here them.
Also decided to trade out my 1.50" wheel spacers for some 1.25" spacers up front. It brought my overall width front and rear within a 1/4" of an inch of each other. Front being just barely wider. Still clear the frame rail at full lock.
And my rear bumper from Scotty at Addicted finally came in and all I can't say enough about the quality of work and the customer service. Great product and great guy to do business with. My front bumper was expected to ship today so I'll email Scotty to see if it did for sure and hopefully have it on by the end of this week.
Also looking for creative idea's for (front) turn signals. I want LED's so they are bright and I want them to be something that blends and looks nice with a tube front bumper. I've looked around quite a bit and so far I really like these the best.http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_led_light_bar.htm They are small and I can get them in sequential or normal patterns. But they seem a little pricey for what they are. If anyone has other suggestions I'd love to here them.
Last edited:
rickashay
New member
Wow man your truck looks terrible. Just aweful taste, you totally don't know what your doing or anything.... syke! hahah
Seriously, amazing build. Can't wait to see the Addicted bumpers on it and it playing on the trails.
Regarding your DRL's, the Retrofit Source has released a new product called the X.Drl and its similar to the Hella DRL's but for $75 per pair including wiring. It's not listed on their website yet but they have details on their facebook page and I think you can order them if you call direct.
https://www.facebook.com/TheRetrofitSource
Seriously, amazing build. Can't wait to see the Addicted bumpers on it and it playing on the trails.
Regarding your DRL's, the Retrofit Source has released a new product called the X.Drl and its similar to the Hella DRL's but for $75 per pair including wiring. It's not listed on their website yet but they have details on their facebook page and I think you can order them if you call direct.
https://www.facebook.com/TheRetrofitSource
ADH8796
New member
Haha thanks!
Those look nice I'll have to give them a call and see what I can figure out.
ADH8796
New member
Sorry in advance for all the crappy cell phone pics. I'm too lazy to go get my camera.
Well I finally got around to putting my roll bar in and then started looking at what I was going to do to maximize space in the cargo area. I carry a lot of stuff in my 4runner everyday. I'm a full time Firefighter but on my off days I'm a Volunteer Firefigher and part of a Technical Rescue Team. I'm certified in Rope rescue, Swiftwater rescue, Trench rescue, Structural Collapse rescue, and bla bla bla. Anyway because I do a lot of this in my off time it requires that I'm ready at a moments notice and also requires that I have my gear with me for direct responses.
Started out just moving stuff around in the back trying to make the most of the limited space
I thought about putting everything in rubbermaid containers and just stacking it in the back. Problem is I need immediate access to my equipment in the event of an emergency. So I decided to build a shelf that would bolt to my roll bar and be easy to put in and pull out.
I used some scrap tube to hold up the rear of the platform. The seats hold the platform from tilting up and the tube holds the platform from tilting down. So it's good and snug.
And added these to make sure there was no movement
Then covered it with some old 4runner carped and got it installed.
Well I finally got around to putting my roll bar in and then started looking at what I was going to do to maximize space in the cargo area. I carry a lot of stuff in my 4runner everyday. I'm a full time Firefighter but on my off days I'm a Volunteer Firefigher and part of a Technical Rescue Team. I'm certified in Rope rescue, Swiftwater rescue, Trench rescue, Structural Collapse rescue, and bla bla bla. Anyway because I do a lot of this in my off time it requires that I'm ready at a moments notice and also requires that I have my gear with me for direct responses.
Started out just moving stuff around in the back trying to make the most of the limited space
I thought about putting everything in rubbermaid containers and just stacking it in the back. Problem is I need immediate access to my equipment in the event of an emergency. So I decided to build a shelf that would bolt to my roll bar and be easy to put in and pull out.
I used some scrap tube to hold up the rear of the platform. The seats hold the platform from tilting up and the tube holds the platform from tilting down. So it's good and snug.
And added these to make sure there was no movement
Then covered it with some old 4runner carped and got it installed.
Last edited:
ADH8796
New member
Next it was time to load up all my junk starting with the sub.
Recovery gear and some tools
Then med bag
72 Hour pack in case of deployment
Bunker gear, Helmet, mask, and light
And then I added my dog barrier
Hi-lift location haven't build the mount itself yet but It will be a simple bolt with wing nut system.
And with all my gear loaded in the rear
Recovery gear and some tools
Then med bag
72 Hour pack in case of deployment
Bunker gear, Helmet, mask, and light
And then I added my dog barrier
Hi-lift location haven't build the mount itself yet but It will be a simple bolt with wing nut system.
And with all my gear loaded in the rear
downpour11
New member
Bumper looks awesome! Great build as always
martin.1991911
New member
nice Runner there buddie!! :thumb3:
4ever4running
New member
Looking good man! The AOR bumper looks awesome!
