Adjustable Front Stabilizer Bar Links

Okki

New member
After getting a Icon Stage 6 suspension on my 2010 Limited, and recently loosing the "spacer" that was my RCI bash-plate, because I had a CBI front bumper installed, my front stabilizer bar makes contact with the front skid-plate.

It looks like I can create clearance by installing longer stabilizer bar links and pushing the rears (by the wheels) down, so that the curve between the frame rails gets rotated upward.

i.e. push this end of the stabilizer bar down:
tn_sblink.jpg


So the bottom of the "smiley face" bar comes up:
eibswayfrk__04805.1406316144.1280.1280.jpg

(This is for a Honda Civic, but I couldn't find a good pic for a 4Runner.)

Does anyone have any experience with this, and if so, what length stabilizer-bar links would you recommend? If you have done this, which adjustable links did you buy (vendor link)?

Thanks!
Okki
 
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You could fabricate some longer or shorter links. There is guy on here that makes sliding links. The materials he uses could be used to make a longer links.

Bending the swaybar itself is out of the question.

Have you considered spacing the skid or getting out a BFH?
 
I have a message in to [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] on his sales thread. Just no response yet. Shorter links will make the issue worse. I can do a spacer. Previously my RCI bashplate served that purpose. But adding washers does not solve the basic alignment issue of the stabilizer bar.

Moving the stabilizer bar forward will make the issue worse. It would have to be moved back to gain more clearance, but that creates a new issue with the position / angle of the links.

Just looking for input from someone who has already lengthened the links and how much they lengthened them.

Okki
 
I have a message in to [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] on his sales thread. Just no response yet. Shorter links will make the issue worse. I can do a spacer. Previously my RCI bashplate served that purpose. But adding washers does not solve the basic alignment issue of the stabilizer bar.

Moving the stabilizer bar forward will make the issue worse. It would have to be moved back to gain more clearance, but that creates a new issue with the position / angle of the links.

Just looking for input from someone who has already lengthened the links and how much they lengthened them.

Okki

Longer links would work, but just be sure that they're not going to contact the CV. Even the standard front links that I sell can be adjusted about an extra inch over stock.

Do you by any chance have the KDSS system?

Mike
 
Longer links would work, but just be sure that they're not going to contact the CV. Even the standard front links that I sell can be adjusted about an extra inch over stock.

Do you by any chance have the KDSS system?

Mike

Thanks Mike.
I'll send you a PM to get for some instructions on determining the right length needed.

Thanks!
Okki
 
I managed to grab some comparison photos from a stock 2013 Limited at a local dealership. Based on what I'm seeing, I should SHORTEN the front links in order to have the sway-bar in the same position as stock (slightly upward at the coilover). I am already running the spacer that Icon provides in order to lower the bushing by 3/4 inch to keep it closer to the stock angle.

By rotating the ends UP, the curve around the coil will move up and forward, eventually creating more clearance. The droop in the center of the swaybar will rotate down initially towards the back of the truck. Because of the downward angle of the front skidplate, it will create more clearance eventually.

Thoughts anyone? ( [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION])

Has anyone with a lift shortened their front links?

28059025732_f4644e6c40_b.jpg


28163230635_45a86763fe_b.jpg


28163238705_d62460de6c_b.jpg


Spacer:
28084707971_4a3319bd0d_b.jpg


Overview (full outside lock on driver side):
28084697671_667ee556cd_b.jpg


Skid Clearance (viewed from passenger side):
28059184572_e1c4fc8630_b.jpg


Okki
 
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@Okki, take a look at the 4th Gen sway bar. It has a flat section in that area that was changed to full round on the 5th gen. I'm running the 4th gen bar, only because my son and I both pulled our bars for a run and when we put them back on we accidentally got them swapped. I'll go out side and snap a photo as soon as it stops raining to verify exactly where the flat spot is to see if it will solve your problem.



EDIT:

Never mind. The flat section is after the first bend after the bushing, not after the second bend near the end of the bar. It won't help.
 
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Okki, I have read most posts here in the past several years and I can't remember anyone running different length end links. Sorry.
 
Going to tape an old phone under there and try to get some video of the bar moving as I pull onto the curb in front of my house (poor man's go-pro).

It's hard to definitively determine where the noise is coming from while driving. Also not sure if it's speed/terrain driven.

Will do the same thing with the rear sway bar.

I also put some painters tape on the bar to see if it gets craped off anywhere that might indicate a point of contact.

Would like to understand the issue before throwing money at solutions that may not be needed or won't fix the issue (if there is one)

Okki
 
Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm having an issue with my sway bar contacting my driver side radiator support bracket.

For some details, I'm using a sway bar relocation bracket, to move the sway bar mounts down and forward, as well as spacers under my radiator support brackets to drop them down. That said though, because the radiator brackets are offset to the passenger side and not centered on the truck my left bracket and the sway bar are rubbing.

My proposed solution would be to find longer endlinks which will rotate the center section of the sway bar up and hopefully create enough clearance to stop the rubbing with the radiator bracket.

Anyway, I'm curious if you were ever able to solve your rubbing issues with your skid plate.
 

Hmmm thanks for the heads up! That's an interesting looking fix.

My only concern is if it'll leave enough space for the RCI Skid plate I have installed. It looks like it should retain all the original mounting points. I'd just need to check on how much lower it hangs than the stock ones.

Another idea I was tossing in my head was to just ditch the brackets all together. I could mount the skid plate directly to the radiator support. I'd just need a bolt long enough to go all the way through the support and then a nut and washer on top of it. This has the added benefit of giving me another inch or so of skid plate clearance. That said I'm sure those support brackets are there for a good reason... so who knows.
 
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Hmmm thanks for the heads up! That's an interesting looking fix.

My only concern is if it'll leave enough space for the RCI Skid plate I have installed. It looks like it should retain all the original mounting points. I'd just need to check on how much lower it hangs than the stock ones.

Another idea I was tossing in my head was to just ditch the brackets all together. I could mount the skid plate directly to the radiator support. I'd just need a bolt long enough to go all the way through the support and then a nut and washer on top of it. This has the added benefit of giving me another inch or so of skid plate clearance. That said I'm sure those support brackets are there for a good reason... so who knows.

Looking at the mount points etc, It should work with my hefty fab skid no problem.
It shouldn't be any thicker then the oem one, Just that i think they moved the part where it curves out of the way, and slimmed it out from the top.
 
This is looking to be exactly what I need. I'm going to contact a local shop that sells OME suspensions to see if they can get one for me.

Thanks for the heads up man. It's greatly appreciated.
 

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