Aftermarket skid plate mounting - Hefty Fabworks

[cheeser]

In mounting this new skid plate, I was expecting to use the factory mounting holes. The new plate just came with four long bolts and oversized washers. There weren't any instructions, but wasn't expecting any as this should be simple.

In performing the test fit, it looks like I can only use two of the factory front mount holes, then I have to remove two existing bolts from brackets that had nothing to do with the factory plates for the middle, and then the rears don't line up with anything other than two large holes as the rear mount holes are too far away.

Just checking to see what others have encountered with aftermarket. Have already tried calling, but no go as expected on a Saturday.

Guess I am a bit disappointed as I should be able to just slap it in. I am a bit PO'ed as it is a nice toasty day in mid 90's.

Guess I will try looking again, but want to cobble anything together. Otherwise, will just slap old ones back on.

 

[d_clark]

Can't say that I have ever heard them mentioned before.

Looking at their webpage, it looks like it should bolt right in.

On the front end, there are 4 holes, only 2 of them would align with anything. On the rear, it looks like it would bolt in to existing bolt holes.

 

[Cymon]

In mounting this new skid plate, I was expecting to use the factory mounting holes. The new plate just came with four long bolts and oversized washers. There weren't any instructions, but wasn't expecting any as this should be simple.

In performing the test fit, it looks like I can only use two of the factory front mount holes, then I have to remove two existing bolts from brackets that had nothing to do with the factory plates for the middle, and then the rears don't line up with anything other than two large holes as the rear mount holes are too far away.

Just checking to see what others have encountered with aftermarket. Have already tried calling, but no go as expected on a Saturday.

Guess I am a bit disappointed as I should be able to just slap it in. I am a bit PO'ed as it is a nice toasty day in mid 90's.

Guess I will try looking again, but want to cobble anything together. Otherwise, will just slap old ones back on.

I can't help with the mounting but if you could please post pics and describe how you did it (both skids and sliders) you would really help others looking into their products. eep:

 

[cheeser]

I thought it would bolt right in as well...expected to use factory mounts. Does include 4 new bolts/washers that are much longer than originals....they seem too long for the fronts/middle.

Up front, it seems fine and could use the factory holes.

In the middle, there are two longer standoffs. They are slotted which indicates they should be used, instead of just enlarged for the existing bracket bolts to just fit inside.



At the back, you can see where the factory holes don't line up with the slotted opening on the skid. It looks like I need to use long bolt with nut to insert into the existing hole....that does make it a two handed job to insert/tighten which would be a pain when you are under the vehicle trying to hold it up.

So it looks like I need to wait until Monday when someone is in to see what is going on.

 

[cheeser]

Factory vs Hefty

 

[STX4Runner]

Please post what their response is, as well as some pictures. Especially one of the clearance between the skid and the tube brackets under the KDSS swaybar.

 

[cheeser]

I have left three voice mails to their "tech line," but no one has had the courtesy to call me back yet to explain how this skid plate should be installed. I was expecting to use the factory mounts, but this design doesn't seem to be using them.

This is starting to be irritating....especially in having to wait 8+ weeks for them.

 

[TOY2G]

I have left three voice mails to their "tech line," but no one has had the courtesy to call me back yet to explain how this skid plate should be installed. I was expecting to use the factory mounts, but this design doesn't seem to be using them.

This is starting to be irritating....especially in having to wait 8+ weeks for them.

I have these skids on two of my trucks. Perhaps I can help. In the am I will take pictures for you if that will help.

 

[cheeser]

I have these skids on two of my trucks. Perhaps I can help. In the am I will take pictures for you if that will help.

Thanks....post #4 illustrates my install issue. Front seems to line up with factory holes, but the middle holes hit up against factory bracket bolts, and the rear slots don't line up with factory mounts but do to existing holes..

In the meantime, am out in the mountains running a few trails.

 

[TOY2G]

Factory vs Hefty


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We wereall at the Fj Summit and just got back yesterday, I also have about 120 emails, I bet he is backed up.


Edit: I just texted him, The tech lines were down at his shop, you should call the sales number man.

 

[STX4Runner]

Thanks....post #4 illustrates my install issue. Front seems to line up with factory holes, but the middle holes hit up against factory bracket bolts, and the rear slots don't line up with factory mounts but do to existing holes..

In the meantime, am out in the mountains running a few trails.

Do you think you're supposed to remove the tube brackets under the KDSS swaybar and use the non-threaded hole in the crossmember at the rear?

 

[STX4Runner]

I have these skids on two of my trucks. Perhaps I can help. In the am I will take pictures for you if that will help.

Please do. I'm considering getting this front skid and want to see how it mounts.

 

[d_clark]

Do you think you're supposed to remove the tube brackets under the KDSS swaybar and use the non-threaded hole in the crossmember at the rear?

You might be on to something. Looking at your pics again, I can see where the slots in the standoffs would work, Once you have the fronts bolted up, the rear might extend back far enough to be able to utilize those non-threaded holes.

 

[Saker]

Do you think you're supposed to remove the tube brackets under the KDSS swaybar and use the non-threaded hole in the crossmember at the rear?

That's also what it looks like to me.
IIRC, some other aftermarket skids require you remove those radiator support brackets.....

 

[cheeser]

We wereall at the Fj Summit and just got back yesterday, I also have about 120 emails, I bet he is backed up.


Edit: I just texted him, The tech lines were down at his shop, you should call the sales number man.

Odd...lines were working when I left messages. Can understand if he has a bunch of messages. May have to wait a few days as phone service doesn't work where we are during their hours, or he can call and leave message.

 

[cheeser]

Do you think you're supposed to remove the tube brackets under the KDSS swaybar and use the non-threaded hole in the crossmember at the rear?

With the way it was setup, it looks like I have to remove the bolts from the tube brackets and then use new bolts via the standoffs to those holes.

Then I have to use the holes at the back instead of the factory mounts...the included hardware package didn't provide any hardware/nuts to make that work, which is why I questioned it.

So I am back to the basics. If I am not expected to use factory mounts and hardware, there should have been some basic instructions and all needed hardware.

 

[cheeser]

That's also what it looks like to me.
IIRC, some other aftermarket skids require you remove those radiator support brackets.....

Doesn't look like I need I need remove tubes, just back bolt for potential reuse with the standoff.

If I had to remove the tubes, I wouldn't want to use this skid as the tubes serve a purpose.

Maybe I am too picky, but prefer any new parts to fit together almost like OEM.

 

[TOY2G]

You might be on to something. Looking at your pics again, I can see where the slots in the standoffs would work, Once you have the fronts bolted up, the rear might extend back far enough to be able to utilize those non-threaded holes.

This is correct, the rear uses the supplied long bolts and nuts and goes through the un-threaded holes in the cross member. The stand offs go in place of the short bolt at the radiator support. the support stays in place.

Odd...lines were working when I left messages. Can understand if he has a bunch of messages. May have to wait a few days as phone service doesn't work where we are during their hours, or he can call and leave message.

I just called him (I'm two hours ahead) he did in fact get your voice mails but none of the three you left had your phone number or name so he had trouble finding you. I pointed him to this thread and he found you and will call you.

 

[TOY2G]

Doesn't look like I need I need remove tubes, just back bolt for potential reuse with the standoff.

If I had to remove the tubes, I wouldn't want to use this skid as the tubes serve a purpose.

Maybe I am too picky, but prefer any new parts to fit together almost like OEM.

Jeff, it sounds like perhaps you are missing some hardware. The new skids cannot mount like the OEM because they are designed differently for more protection. It sounds like you are missing the two 4.5 inch bolts with nuts for the rear of the skid. Something Chris can amend when he calls you.

 

[STX4Runner]

[MENTION=64685]TOY2G[/MENTION], can you post some pictures of the skids as mounted? It sounds like the tubes stay in place, but the back bolt that attaches the tube to the crossmember gets threaded through the round standoff on the skid plate and then back through the tube and screwed into the crossmember. I'd like to see how much clearance (if any) is between the tubes and the inside of the plate. I know BudBuilt's plate sits right on the tube, which is good, as it's good to maintain as much ground clearance as possible. Thanks.