Aftermarket skid plate mounting - Hefty Fabworks

Just as a heads-up, they are also members on the forum. You could try pm'ing them [MENTION=128791]HeftyFabworks[/MENTION] . They were really responsive when introducing themselves on this thread.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/new-members/217439-hello-hefty-fabworks-colorado-springs-co.html

From all of their previous threads and everything I've heard about Heftyfab they are a really good/stand-up company so I hope this works out. They make what look to be some pretty awesome sliders and skids (as well as bumpers).

I'd love to see the install as well since I am seriously considering these and their sliders when I want to install more protection:peep:
 
I'd love to see the install as well since I am seriously considering these and their sliders when I want to install more protection:peep:

If no one else posts pics, I'll make sure to take some when I get mine (7 - 10 days, I hope). Ordered the sliders and the front aluminum skid plate.
 
That's also what it looks like to me.
IIRC, some other aftermarket skids require you remove those radiator support brackets.....

Doesn't look like I need I need remove tubes, just back bolt for potential reuse with the standoff.

If I had to remove the tubes, I wouldn't want to use this skid as the tubes serve a purpose.

Maybe I am too picky, but prefer any new parts to fit together almost like OEM.

That's a positive that you don't need to remove said radiator support brackets. I also, would not be in favor of that.
I was just pointing out that it looked like that and because other skids require it.

Glad it's going to work out!
 
Good news...finally able to get ahold of Chris....appears to be simply a case of the incorrect hardware package supplied with my skid. Sending out ASAP.

The design does make it stronger than stock, so the two bolts for brackets are removed and replaced due to the standoffs being used per my original pic. The rear factory mounts are not used, but instead the two holes via new hardware.

Glad to see that I wasn't going bonkers and Chris is making it right. Happy to support small businesses when I can, plus this skid and standoffs in middle make a beefy skid.
 
I just called him (I'm two hours ahead) he did in fact get your voice mails but none of the three you left had your phone number or name so he had trouble finding you. I pointed him to this thread and he found you and will call you.


That's odd...I don't make a habit to leave voice mail without my name and number....can't help without that info...I did leave my info.


It's a moot point finally as he is going to send me the missing hardware.
 
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Was able to find time to install the front skid. I did add the screen behind the holes in the front. The only stock mounting holes uses are the fronts. Otherwise, they use the bracket mounts for the tubes in the middle and the large holes in the back via the cross member.

My only change I want to make is to reverse the bolts in the back so they don't stick down so far and find a button head type of bolt instead so it is less likely to catch on a rock. I notice the RCI skids have a welded on bolt protector I wish these had. I did have to trim the plastic piece between the radiator and skid. Otherwise, the skids look sturdy.

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If you are worried about the bolt heads you can always run something like this
Rock Slidder Washer

I have run these on my Asfir and older model RCI skids and they have worked great. There are a few other companies that sell them as well so you might find them cheaper if you look around....
 
If you are worried about the bolt heads you can always run something like this
Rock Slidder Washer

I have run these on my Asfir and older model RCI skids and they have worked great. There are a few other companies that sell them as well so you might find them cheaper if you look around....

Excellent...thanks. Just remembered my bolts are 1/2" diameter and these washers only go up to 7/16...the bolt head would probably be too big as well. Guess I could step down in diameter for bolts with a grade 8.
 
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Reverse those bolts so the heads are on the bottom. I think you have them upside down. Then get one of these:

122-1207-01-o+removing-damaged-nuts-and-bolts+.jpg


If you drag those bolts on rocks in their current configuration you'll damage them so bad you'll have to cut them off.

If I have to take any skids off after wheeling and the bolt heads are damaged, these sockets get them off no problem. Those protector washers are expensive as hell and I've heard they can get packed with ground up rock and grit and then you'll never get those bolts off. Same with button head bolts. The allen key socket gets damaged and you're SOL. Also, get on McMaster Carr and buy quantities of 25 of so of the bolts you need in Class 10.9. Cheep, and you can throw out the damaged ones if you need to take them off.
 
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I put the back ones upside down on purpose...mainly because the bolt on the drivers side was pretty close to the driveshaft flange.

Thanks for the info.
 
I put the back ones upside down on purpose...mainly because the bolt on the drivers side was pretty close to the driveshaft flange.

Thanks for the info.

You're welcome. I would still turn them around. The front driveshaft on our vehicles won't move while driving so the bolt shouldn't be in danger of hitting it.
 
Would love to, but it's been over 2.5 months and I still don't have the skids or the sliders...

if you still haven't heard anything from them, I would call Chris directly. There has apparently been some changes in office personnel over there and the bumper order I placed way back in March apparently fell through the cracks in the change over. Chris has been an absolute gentleman in sorting out the error and making things right, but they can't do anything if they don't know there is a problem.
 
if you still haven't heard anything from them, I would call Chris directly. There has apparently been some changes in office personnel over there and the bumper order I placed way back in March apparently fell through the cracks in the change over. Chris has been an absolute gentleman in sorting out the error and making things right, but they can't do anything if they don't know there is a problem.

Every time I've called, I've spoken with Chris, but still don't have my order. He knows there is a problem, and that they haven't delivered anything to me.

The last contact was earlier this week, where I was promised a return call once he figured out where my simple order of one set of sliders and a front skidplate was. Still waiting for the return call.
 
Every time I've called, I've spoken with Chris, but still don't have my order. He knows there is a problem, and that they haven't delivered anything to me.

The last contact was earlier this week, where I was promised a return call once he figured out where my simple order of one set of sliders and a front skidplate was. Still waiting for the return call.

It took a little bit more time for the order to be ready, but to make up for it, I drove down to the Springs last week and Chris and his crew installed both the sliders and skidplate for me.

Very happy with the installation process - they took their time and treated the 4Runner like it was their own.

Chris also took the time to show me around the new shop that is almost completed. They'll have a lot more room and a better workflow for getting their products completed.


I still want a set of aluminum bumpers, but the wife hasn't gotten on board with that idea :(
 
got mine installed today, plates are built well. Thing is there is 0 instruction included. and you are left to figure out what goes where, which slows you down a lot.

They included a pair of aluminum plates. = NOT USED in the configuration that i purchased it.

They also included redundant / longer bolts when you buy the full set of skids, BUT they still give you the shorter ones, If you are installing in sequence, you get thrown off by the included hardware.

Wasted most of today, and got the front skid, trans skid and transfer skid installed.

The transfer skid seems to be a horrible design, nut on a stick that you slide into a hole and have to findangle into place. Wasted a lot of time with that. Could have easily used one of the factory holes with threads and a bit extra aluminum to save everyone the headache. Worse Design ever. If you ever need to take it off, don't expect to be able to get back to the nut on a stick ever again.

Transmission skid/ front skid use a bolt through frame that is very tight and close to the axle. Very tough spot to get to. probably have 1cm of space or less between the NUT and the AXLE.

Fuel tank skid i'll work on next weekend. Fingers crossed.
 
are there known clearance issues or anything on these plates?

backing out of my driveway, and i noticed a grind noise by my passenger side front today.
 

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