Aftermarket stereo install electrical issues

[euri]

I installed a stereo (Dual XDM6351) into my friend's 98 4runner, using this wiring harness (Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker: Car Electronics). In what should have been a straightforward and simply stereo install, removing the old aftermarket deck and putting in a new one, I am having several odd issues.
1. The dash lights behind the gauges don't turn on. Although the other lights do, ABS, airbag, seatbelt, etc. Also, tail lights and headlights work fine.
2. The buzzing noise that the car makes when you leave the lights on and open the drivers side door no longer works.
3. Specific FM ranges that normally get great reception in the Portland metro area only pick up static now (92.3 works, 95.5 works, 94.7 doesn't).

My first thought was the fuses. I got my trusty multimeter and checked the boxes both under the hood and in the drivers side kick panel. Only one was blown (see attached picture). Every time I unplug the battery and plug it back in, I hear a pop and the same one blows each time. Good thing they are cheap, I only burnt 3 of them.

Second thought was the dimmer switch, and after a dummy check, it was up all the way.

Then I checked to make sure I wired the stereo up properly. Turns out I had wired the two orange wires from the harness together. When I separated them I still had the problems.

I'm running out of ideas and don't want to take the car into a shop to get it fixed. Help?

 

[euri]

Here is the pic

 

[shootmymime]

it sounds like there is a short somewhere and not grounded properly. can you post up what color wires you hooked together. it has to be something with that. go back to your wire harness because something is not right.

 

[BrianSD_42]

My 2 cents (and I've done several of these installs) ....

Run all new power and ground. Clip the wires and crimp the new 12G power and ground to the harness. Do not re-use the factory power.

If you are running a 4 channel amp then I recommend you run all new 14G speaker wire to the doors.

 

[euri]

Here's a photo of the harness. I also noticed that the blue cable on the harness side has another short blue wire going into it. I believe that wire had a slightly different end when I get it. However, the manual for the deck says it just goes to the power antenna.
How would I go about running all new power and ground?
Also, what does that fuse that kept on popping go to? My friend doesn't have a manual for the car and it is unlisted on the fuse box.

 

[Bucket81]

First off your doing it wrong. Don't use twist style terminals there for houses not cars they can come loose due to vibration. Use crimp caps but connectors are Ok but your making an extra crimp that's not necessary.

Pull the deck and see if it does it remove all things that you have done from the situation. If it still does it you broke some thing.

What does the wiring harness directions say the orange wires do?

You can also cut the blue wires and see if that fixes the issue.
Email me I might be able to help you out more [email protected]

 

[wheelds]

you have no dash lights because you grounded your illumination wire (orange) and blew a fuse. I think the fuse is labeled headlight?

Power antenna would be the blue wire or "remote amp wire" in the manual, it will either be solid blue or blue white stripe.

Grab your multimeter and find the blue wire that has power switched on with key ignition out of the radio you bought then connect that blue wire in the metra harness.

 

[Jon]

My 2 cents (and I've done several of these installs) ....

Run all new power and ground. Clip the wires and crimp the new 12G power and ground to the harness. Do not re-use the factory power.

If you are running a 4 channel amp then I recommend you run all new 14G speaker wire to the doors.

That's the way I do mine. Learned that trick when installing a system in my 66 Ford Galaxie.

 

[scrap metal]

Every head unit I have installed always says to run your own ground. Instead of running the ground wire out of the stereo into the harness.... attach it to a metal area or bolt.

I honestly dont think you need to run a new power wire if you are just running a standard headunit, I highly doubt you will be pulling more amps than the factory harness can accept.

Replace the fuse with the radio harness completely disconnected and turn the key on. If it doesnt pop thats good because it means that its definately something in your wiring procedure that is wrong and nothing else more serious was melted.

 

[scrap metal]

Oh, no one ever answered your other question. I am pretty sure that the fuse you pointed to is the

"10a Tail fuse"

it's circuit contains;
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Illumination
Taillight
Trailer Towing

This explains why your dash lights weren't working

 

[Bucket81]

I don't know what I was thinking with the remote wire. For some odd reason my brain was thinking blue was illumination.

 

[Brian757]

My 2 cents (and I've done several of these installs) ....

Run all new power and ground. Clip the wires and crimp the new 12G power and ground to the harness. Do not re-use the factory power.

If you are running a 4 channel amp then I recommend you run all new 14G speaker wire to the doors.

Yeah, speaking of running all new speaker wires to each of the speakers. When I got a new amplifier, I made sure to grab about 10 FT. of what they call, "Speed Wire," which is awesome stuff. It is basically 9 conductors with a sleeve, so that it is easy to tuck wiring from front to rear.

Looks like this:

 

[BrianSD_42]

orange is illumination and for Alpine amps (and probably others) you don't even need to connect the orange wire. just let it dangle and the head unit will assume full illumination.

Run new power and ground wires because that is the best way I know of to prevent "engine whine" --- I have done this several times and if you re-use the power and ground you will likely get engine whine.

Go to local auto parts store and pick up some 12G black and 12G red wire. Then pickup a 15A fuse (or 20A) kit to place in line on the red wire within 12 inches of the battery. That is how you run a new power. I suggest running the stereo ground all the way back to the battery, together with the red wire. Just twist them and run it through the firewall.

Have you been to crutchfield.com's how to site?

---> Crutchfield Installation Guides

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fEj1qrceuXr/App/Learn/InstallationGuides.aspx

 

[BrianSD_42]

For connecting the wires either use a dual crimp (two female ends) or use these Male and Female connector plugs [pictured below]

The benefit of using the ones shown below (sold at every auto store) is that you can EASILY change out the stereo or wiring without having to cut both ends of the wire. Or say you install speakers and cut the factory wiring, by using these type of connector you can simply reconnect the factory speakers without cutting and crimping all over again. I wish I had known about these when I was 20 and messing with this stuff.

If you don't have it already you will need a wire stripper with a crimp tool like this one ---> Irwin Industrial Tools 2078309 8-Inch Multi Tool Stripper, Cutter and Crimper with ProTouch Grips - Amazon.com

 

[BrianSD_42]

I made sure to grab about 10 FT. of what they call, "Speed Wire," which is awesome stuff.

I always recommend 14G instead of 18G. I am sure for the OP who is not running an amp that 18 would be fine but if you are running an amp like 50 W RMS per channel then I don't think 18 will is optimal. Also note that 18G as advertised is not the same thing as 18AWG. A lot of cables are not "true" by AWG standards. So a 4G cable bought on Amazon is 1) not AWG rated and 2) not copper but copper-clad-aluminum. For these reasons I saw buy 14 gauge wire because it is probably at least as good as true 16 AWG.

Below is a chart from this website: Speaker Cable Gauge (AWG) Guidelines & Recommendations | Audioholics

As shown in the chart:

As you can see in the graph, once your distances exceed about 10 feet, you should consider speaker wire 16AWG or lower. If you are using a loudspeaker that is rated at 4 ohms, the critical distance becomes about half that.

 

[NEKExplorer]

Very old thread- hopefully someone notices and can help out. So about running that fresh power and ground- for power I was thinking run a wire (with in-line 10A fuse) directly to the positive battery terminal, but here's my problem: the harness has a yellow wire for constant power, and a red one for switched power, so which one of those gets the line directly to the battery terminal, the red wire (switched) or the yellow one (constant)?

 

[jeremyc74]

Very old thread- hopefully someone notices and can help out. So about running that fresh power and ground- for power I was thinking run a wire (with in-line 10A fuse) directly to the positive battery terminal, but here's my problem: the harness has a yellow wire for constant power, and a red one for switched power, so which one of those gets the line directly to the battery terminal, the red wire (switched) or the yellow one (constant)?

Running a new wire is a complete waste of time. Just use the factory harness. It's more than adequate.

 

[NEKExplorer]

Well let's just say I can't use the harness. How bout then? And if I run the yellow wire for constant power to the battery then where would I splice in for switched power (not on the harness)?

Thanks

 

[TheDurk]

Well let's just say I can't use the harness. How bout then? And if I run the yellow wire for constant power to the battery then where would I splice in for switched power (not on the harness)?

Thanks

You want to run the constant on to the battery. The switched power has to come from a fused key-on circuit. If you don't use the harness, the cigarette lighter is the next best choice; It's right there and has the capacity. The harness drew from there anyway for switched power--both radio and lighter use the ACC fuse.

 

[4racer]

Well let's just say I can't use the harness. How bout then? And if I run the yellow wire for constant power to the battery then where would I splice in for switched power (not on the harness)?

Thanks

On my 97 in the fuse box on the drivers side there's a fuse holder with no fuse. I used an Add a circuit and used that for my Switched 12V. Think it's free in most 4runners.