Alignment question

[rocket67]

I lifted my 4runner 2.5" and at the same time installed lr uca's. At first my camber angles were /-\ and I played around with the top nut on the uca and managed to get my front camber straight |-|. The truck tracks dead straight on the hwy and drives great. Do I still need a wheel alignment?

 

[Antman]

Definitely YES!

 

[nevada]

I lifted my 4runner 2.5" and at the same time installed lr uca's. At first my camber angles were /-\ and I played around with the top nut on the uca and managed to get my front camber straight |-|. The truck tracks dead straight on the hwy and drives great. Do I still need a wheel alignment?

absolutely yes.

Definitely YES!

this.

 

[GrantK]

Definitely YES!

And then some!!!

 

[rocket67]

I thought so. So @ 0 caster setting they should be able to gain me 2 more degrees positive caster which will possibly eliminate 285 rubbing the body mount?

 

[nevada]

I thought so. So @ 0 caster setting they should be able to gain me 2 more degrees positive caster which will possibly eliminate 285 rubbing the body mount?

not likely. USUALLY, not always but most of the time, increasing caster brings the tire back, and closer to the rear of the fender. it all depends on the relation of the balljoints to eachother.

altho, i dont have a 5thgen, so maybe its different, and maybe the body mount you're hitting is toward the front...

 

[GrantK]

I thought so. So @ 0 caster setting they should be able to gain me 2 more degrees positive caster which will possibly eliminate 285 rubbing the body mount?

Rocket,
You are in way over your head. You can not set the alignment without proper equipment and you can not expect good results when setting the alignment to values outside factory spec. (which you're trying to do).

1) Perform the wheel-well liner mod.
2) Take your truck to a pro and have them set it to factory spec. with the caster set to +4.0, the high end of factory spec.

Results will be that you can fit larger tires and the handling will be better.

 

[rocket67]

Wheel liner mod is done and I'm aware of putting everything back into stock spec just wanted to be sure I will be able to reach the +4.0 on caster which I now know. Thanks for the replies ppl.

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

My recommendation would be to move the camber bolts on the UCA all the way out. Then get an alignment and have them get it all in the green using the lower adjusters. That way your spring/shock/coilover has the most clearance.

And yes you need an alignment.

 

[harper7]

Wheel liner mod is done and I'm aware of putting everything back into stock spec just wanted to be sure I will be able to reach the +4.0 on caster which I now know. Thanks for the replies ppl.

More pos. caster does move the front wheel forward in the wheel well and makes for stiffer more stable steering. Other people and myself have been running the caster above stock limits of 4.0 for close to 2 years with no adverse effects . I ran it at ~ 4.0 for awhile and like it better at the 5.6 that I have it now and have had it for awhile now. Tires have worn perfectly even.Drives straight and true as an arrow even with no hands on the wheel.

Where you set the initial camber setting on the upper ball joint nut on the LR UCA's is really dependant on what front springs you are running as 700+ lb(like OW 2.5's) springs have thicker steel winds and it should be the whole way outward to keep from rubbing on them at full flex. For 650# springs(like Icons,Toytec)) you can set it in 1/4" in and still not hit the springs at full flex.

Like this........ignore the first pic if you have a KDSS sway bar.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/111733-icon-stage-1-installed-but-2.html#post1024966