Almost ready to start audio project.

[Victor_inox]

I`ll keep stock head unit. Jl cleansweep will be connected to stock speakers wiring. line levels from cleansweep to 6 channel jl amp and from there to alpine amp bridget for a pair of kicker subs. 6.5" subs will fit in rear hatch and I`ll keep stock appearance. 3way Jl in front doors. mid and tweeter in the place of dash speakers. 3way focals in rear doors will experiment with tweet placement. tread will be updated as I go. should take me a couple of weeks to get prepared

 

[red_beard]

Will the subs be a direct replacement of the existing rear hatch speakers?

 

[Victor_inox]

Will the subs be a direct replacement of the existing rear hatch speakers?

yes, that`s the place internal hatch volume is enough to get down to 27 HZ according to bass box software calculations. subs also shallow, will fit there no problem. I`ll have to do a lot of sound deadening. where do I buy dynamat cheap?
another challenge is to mount mids and tweets up front. factory dash speakers locations should be ok but JL and focal mid drivers is 4", I`m not sure it they gonna fit inthere. I don`t want to use A pillars due to airbags in there.

 

[harper7]

yes, that`s the place internal hatch volume is enough to get down to 27 HZ according to bass box software calculations. subs also shallow, will fit there no problem. I`ll have to do a lot of sound deadening. where do I buy dynamat cheap?

Looking forward to your stereo install!

You'll have to watch the weight your putting in the rear hatch. From me just adding sound deadener and aftermarket speakers affected the opening of the hatch on mine. It is about balanced now and doesn't open all the way by itself and needs a helping hand but doesn't fall down.With heavy subs and sound deadening back there ,it probably won't stay open.

I kind of like it though as it used to hit the garage door and now it stops wherever I let it loose .

 

[Victor_inox]

Looking forward to your stereo install!

You'll have to watch the weight your putting in the rear hatch. From me just adding sound deadener and aftermarket speakers affected the opening of the hatch on mine. It is about balanced now and doesn't open all the way by itself and needs a helping hand but doesn't fall down.With heavy subs and sound deadening back there ,it probably won't stay open.

I kind of like it though as it used to hit the garage door and now it stops wherever I let it loose .

I installedbig rubber door stop on garage door to prevent scratches on my hatch. if it gonna stop by itself I `d prefer that. good point harper, thanks!
Kicker subs are not very heavy, they use composit baskets and NIo magnets, probably one of the lightest subs on market today.
what speakers did you installed there? how much sound deadener?
I can always install stronger gas tubes, right?

 

[harper7]

I installedbig rubber door stop on garage door to prevent scratches on my hatch. if it gonna stop by itself I `d prefer that. good point harper, thanks!
Kicker subs are not very heavy, they use composit baskets and NIo magnets, probably one of the lightest subs on market today.
what speakers did you installed there? how much sound deadener?
I can always install stronger gas tubes, right?

I'm not sure how to quantify how much sound deadener I put in but basically cut pieces and covered what I could get at. You'll see it's a pain to deaden as alot of stuff,some sharp, in that hatch in the way and hard to work overhead. One small piece at a time!

I put in JL Audio 6.5 co-axials in it so probably similar weight to yours. I think they were the C2's ,not high dollar ones like your C5's!I put them in the rear doors and hatch.

You can get the stronger rear gas shocks from Gobi but they are $$$

 

[bofa]

Looks like a lot of work and a lot of fun - good luck!

For the garage door issue, you can typically adjust how far it opens either with a small plastic adjustment screw or a button on the side of the unit. I noticed that the hatch would hit the cross beams on the door and ended up rolling it back another 3-4 inches. It will clear now, barely. Now I'm afraid to do any kind of lift. :moping:

 

[gamerc]

I think the ~$100 for the rear lift shocks is worth it. Mine have 6900 miles on them this morning and barely get the lift gate up. I usually have to help it a bit.

 

[red_beard]

You can get the stronger rear gas shocks from Gobi but they are $$$

I just looked on Gobi's website and didn't see them. Got a link?

 

[Victor_inox]

Looks like a lot of work and a lot of fun - good luck!

For the garage door issue, you can typically adjust how far it opens either with a small plastic adjustment screw or a button on the side of the unit. I noticed that the hatch would hit the cross beams on the door and ended up rolling it back another 3-4 inches. It will clear now, barely. Now I'm afraid to do any kind of lift. :moping:

are you talking about garage door motor adjustment or gas strats on hatch?

 

[sandcrawler]

looks like some nice kit, Victor_inox. looking forward to seeing it all in place. (side note: it's kind of funny that all your trick components are laid out next to an "affordable vacations" book :naughty

speaking of budgets, anyone who's opened up their rear hatch (and rear doors, for that matter) think these Infinity Kappa 63.9i will fit in there? wondering if there's enough clearance for that articulating tweeter mount.

 

[Victor_inox]

looks like some nice kit, Victor_inox. looking forward to seeing it all in place. (side note: it's kind of funny that all your trick components are laid out next to an "affordable vacations" book :naughty

speaking of budgets, anyone who's opened up their rear hatch (and rear doors, for that matter) think these Infinity Kappa 63.9i will fit in there? wondering if there's enough clearance for that articulating tweeter mount.

looks like 63.9 will fit juts fine door skin has enough room to accommodate rotating tweeter thingy. nice speakers BTW I`ve had them in my previous truck.
new stereo is my birthday present to myself. I`ll not make it in time for May 3rd but it`s ok. it`s more important to make it right.

 

[sandcrawler]

cool. think they'll clear the liftgate interior trim panel? i'm thinking to first put them in my liftgate (and dynamat it) b/c i always have the back seats folded down with party mode on. next i'll replace the front door woofers (+dynamat), then put another pair of 63.9i in the rear doors. you liked these Kappas in your last truck? cool.

thanks for the info and :happy bda

good luck with your install and post pics. looks awesome.

 

[bofa]

are you talking about garage door motor adjustment or gas strats on hatch?

Garage opener adjustment

Our old one had a small white plastic adjustment screw where every full turn = 3 inches of travel or something similar. I think this was a Genie that came with the house.

Our newer opener has a button. Basically you open the door with a remote, then hold the button on the unit until it slides back to where you want it, and then close it again with the remote. This is a Chamberlain that we added since it has a battery back-up (lots of power outages here during hurricane season).

 

[Victor_inox]

Garage opener adjustment

Our old one had a small white plastic adjustment screw where every full turn = 3 inches of travel or something similar. I think this was a Genie that came with the house.

Our newer opener has a button. Basically you open the door with a remote, then hold the button on the unit until it slides back to where you want it, and then close it again with the remote. This is a Chamberlain that we added since it has a battery back-up (lots of power outages here during hurricane season).

at full swing door barely touches door stop. I found adjustment screws on door opener, it`s not gonna help it opens door all the way already. I`m thinking that moving garage opener to the next beam will solve that problem once and for all. could be a bigger project for later

 

[Victor_inox]

cool. think they'll clear the liftgate interior trim panel? i'm thinking to first put them in my liftgate (and dynamat it) b/c i always have the back seats folded down with party mode on. next i'll replace the front door woofers (+dynamat), then put another pair of 63.9i in the rear doors. you liked these Kappas in your last truck? cool.

thanks for the info and :happy bda

good luck with your install and post pics. looks awesome.

Kappas are no Jl nor focals but very very good. I`d be completely satisfied with kappas but I already spent all that money on JLs and Focals. $1000 worse or speakers should be better, but cost is important thing as well.
I usually keep my cars for at least 5 years, I want to love everything about it and keep it longer. Kappas power hungry- make sure you feed it enough juice.

 

[sandcrawler]

plan to feed juice from JBL audio OEM amp... which is 650 watt / 5 channel? figured 2 ohm, 95db sensitivity made Kappas a good match for getting maximum from factory HU and amp... disagree?

 

[Victor_inox]

plan to feed juice from JBL audio OEM amp... which is 650 watt / 5 channel? figured 2 ohm, 95db sensitivity made Kappas a good match for getting maximum from factory HU and amp... disagree?

agreed, will sound good.

 

[sandcrawler]

cool.
now enough about me... get your shít installed and some pics up already, dude!!!

 

[Victor_inox]

cool.
now enough about me... get your shít installed and some pics up already, dude!!!

I will, I just not ready yet. I have to buy some sound deadening and I mean a lot of it. then I need to find a places to install 2 amps, run power and ground from the battery to power distribution, every speaker will get new wiring I`ll not reuse factory wires this time. if subs and sound deadening will be too much weight for gas struts i`ll go with no subs in the hatch but build stealth box. I can tune boxes really well, did that all my life plus bass box software makes it easy these days