Alpha's 86 Fixes

[Alpha {MWB}]

Vehicle History:
Bought this truck a year ago with 240,000 ish miles on it. Still ran strong, 4wd worked, AC, everything. Great truck, yes rust but its the midwest, we have snow. So drove it for a year and all was going great. Noticed some fluid leaking and was going to look at it that night, didn't have time decided the next night would be ok. IT WASN'T! Radiator was leaking (only when pressurized in operation) and after dropping my wife off at work the next day, blew the head gasket, (temp gauge still read normal). Sent it off to a dude and had him do a full engine rebuild. Got it back with the advice of getting a new temp gauge. Been driving it for a bit (not even 800 miles after the rebuild). Looking at getting a new Instrument cluster for the dash for about 80 dollars (after market seemed/looked silly). There is a bit of ticking, but the mechanic says these engines have louder valves or something ***anyone got advice on this?***. I am not a super Mechanical guy so i am going with that is the explanation for the noise. Because the temp gauge doesn't work, i am weary about the temperature. While at the auto parts store the other day, an employee said he thought the top of the engine wasn't getting enough oil. Which would explain the noise, and the fact the head is hot. What i mean by hot is that after driving it for 10 minutes, i cannot put my finger on the top of the engine for a full second. Is that normal or is this a "STOP DRIVING IT NOW" kinda thing?

Anyway, on to other problems....

Alright, just fixed an exhaust leak. Nothing fancy just a insert kit to repair a severed line 5 inches before the Muffler. *Solved*

2 Other projects i am working on currently.

*Rear window key control*
This is a weird problem. So the rear window rolls down and up just fine from the front control panel. If i insert my key into the rear lock and turn to the right, it rolls the window down, if i turn it to the left, it does nothing.
Is it suppose to roll the window up when you turn to the left?
I called a Toyota service center and they said they thought it did. So i took apart the rear panel with the hatch down. the window was in the way (of course) so i looked and saw which door latch had the sensor then used a screw driver to move the latch to the closed position. Went to the front WHILE HAVING SOMEONE HOLD THE WINDOW, and rolled the window up. Did all this because it is much easier to work on it from the top down standing up than it is for a 6'1" guy to fit in the back with my 12's in there. Once we opened it up i was able to address few problems...
1. Driver side spade connection for the rear window defrost was broken off. *Fixed with a new connector and wire strippers*
2. The passenger side License plate light was dangling down and i wanted to fix it. So right now some JB weld is drying with some auto body speed nuts so i can mount the stock plate light again.

**Almost fixed**

But with all that done, I still cannot figure out the problem with the rear window and why the rear lock doesn't roll it up. If it isn't suppose to, i feel dumb. If it is, any trouble shooting? I can't even get the Lock cylinder off the rear license plate assembly.

Any help on this (if needed) would be appreciated...

So quick question recap...
1. Is the light ticking (at all RPM's) normal?
2. How can I gauge the engine temp without a actual temperature gauge?
3. After driving for 10 minutes, is it normal for me not to be able to touch the engine for a full second (because it is hot)?
4. A. Does the rear key slot roll up the window as well as down? Or does it just roll it down?
B. If it is suppose to, what could be the problem?
C. How can i get the Lock Cylinder off the License plate assembly (see above picture)?

 

[ajordan1975]

1. yes
2. can't (after market gauge works good to)
3. depends on where your touching
4. A. both. ( i've never owned a runner that this worked though)
B. not sure. i just get in and use the switch in counsel

 

[Alpha {MWB}]

Gotta be more solutions from Toyota experts. Gotta be some definitive answers here people.

 

[ekin]

Professionals will give you professional help.

 

[Bad_Vision]

the key switch issue is common the contacts in the switch wear out and youll need to replace the switch and install your lock cylinder. to make sure this is the problem you just need to put a multimeter on the switch contacts one will be a 12v solid with ignition on when you put your key in and turn you will get 12v in each direction. if one direction of the key turn and corresponding wire doesn't put out 12v then you know the switch is the issue. once separated the lock cylinder and switch are easy to swap.
you can not repair the switch because its glued in and a pain in the butt to work on.
here is a link to show you the separation and how easy it is to put your lock cylinder a new switch. in your picture you can see the hole that has a set screw that needs to be removed to separate it from the license plate holder
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/82853-tailgate-lock-cylinder-repair-walkthrough.html
hope that helps!

 

[Alpha {MWB}]

bad Vision,
Thanks. That is great stuff. The thing i am having a problem with is separating the switch/lock cylinder from the whole plastic mounting bracket that sits above the license plate. I cannot seem to get it removed. I have unscrewed all possible screws and cannot for the life of me get it apart. Does the "cover" for the lock on the face side pop off or unscrew? Does the whole cylinder come out the back or push back through the front? i am just at a loss. i don't want to break the thing trying to fix it ya know? lol

 

[Bad_Vision]

like i said the unit has a set screw once the screw is out the switch comes off the lock cylinder and it will be able to push it out of the black plastic.

 

[Alpha {MWB}]

like i said the unit has a set screw once the screw is out the switch comes off the lock cylinder and it will be able to push it out of the black plastic.

Yeah i looked very intently for another screw aside from the two that run parallel to the Cylinder that hold it in the plastic. The only hole that could possibly have a screw like you are talking about is pictured here:

The hole that i think you are talking about has an arrow towards it. I tried to see/scrape to see if this is a set screw and it isn't. The pink X is a flat surface and the light green semi-circle indicates a VERY small space. Not large enough for any "ratchet" or tool to do anything with.
The Red circle indicates the only other hole i could find on my cylinder. It is "empty" I cannot see inside of it because of the plastic near it and any allen key i stick inside seems to have pretty free play. I prolly sound like an idiot here, but i cannot get this thing off.

 

[Bad_Vision]

it may have corroded to the point that it cant be pulled out have had some before that did that. i used a dremel with small head to drill out that piece to separate the two and yes the pink x is the hole that separates the two,