Posting in case anyone wants to do the same.
Since I’ve had the awning light kit, it’s always bugged me to have to route the power cable through weatherstripping at the door/liftgate to plug it in. I set out to find a way to use the 7-pin trailer connection to power this. This is what I came up with.
I ordered a Pollak 11-896 7-pin to 12V power outlet. Unfortunately, the 12v aux/charge power at the 7-pin isn’t hot unless ignition is on. So, I pulled the brown Sub Batt relay in the small relay box towards the back of the engine bay, driver side. I made up a jumper using a couple inches of 10AWG wire and 3/8” blade style male quick disconnect connectors - I found them on Amazon - open barrel unfortunately. I plugged the jumper in, in place of the relay and now I have an exterior 12V power outlet available for the light, compressor or anything else we’d need to plug in while camping, tailgating, etc.
Total cost $30. But I had the wire and heat shrink laying around.
Since I’ve had the awning light kit, it’s always bugged me to have to route the power cable through weatherstripping at the door/liftgate to plug it in. I set out to find a way to use the 7-pin trailer connection to power this. This is what I came up with.
I ordered a Pollak 11-896 7-pin to 12V power outlet. Unfortunately, the 12v aux/charge power at the 7-pin isn’t hot unless ignition is on. So, I pulled the brown Sub Batt relay in the small relay box towards the back of the engine bay, driver side. I made up a jumper using a couple inches of 10AWG wire and 3/8” blade style male quick disconnect connectors - I found them on Amazon - open barrel unfortunately. I plugged the jumper in, in place of the relay and now I have an exterior 12V power outlet available for the light, compressor or anything else we’d need to plug in while camping, tailgating, etc.
Total cost $30. But I had the wire and heat shrink laying around.
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