Amazing Dana 60 SAS FJ cruiser I found on CL what are your thoughts?

[KidVermicious]

[MENTION=49649]KidVermicious[/MENTION] I thought all the smarta$$es who know everything were on the 5th gen side lol. I guess not as evidenced by the post from that guy above.

Some people don't know when to stop digging, I guess. I mean, I could poke him some more, but he's doing such a good job of demonstrating what a tool he is, how could I possibly do better? I'm just a dirt-poor dummy that can't afford anything better than my shitty little '85, after all. :rofl:

 

[SV_Dude]

Why does there always have to be one guy that has to go full retard? This was a good thread then it was escalated way beyond what it needed to. A friendly debate is one thing which is fine, turning something into an unnecessary flame war is out of line.
[MENTION=103375]unlimitedFJ4[/MENTION]
It's time for you to relax.

 

[zopperman]

I wouldn't say smartass (Im extremely respectful and quite nice) but when your boy [MENTION=49649]KidVermicious[/MENTION] try to talk shit because Im not bashing the shit out of my 25k rig that cost 5 times as much as his 85 truck on Soup Kitchen or Big Sluice before they blew it at the Rubicon Trail. When I'm pusssy footing around in my back yard on brand new rims and tires not my crawling wheels. I'm not afraid to speak my mind.


love to see your yota on some rocks like this

I'm gonna save [MENTION=49649]KidVermicious[/MENTION] the trouble and just leave this here

Don't go bashing someone's rig because you dropped a boatload of cash on yours when you haven't even looked at their build or seen what it's capable of.

I really hate to see people talking down each other's trucks on here. We're better than that, come on.

Now, play nice.

 

[TOY2G]

My guess, the front axle is worth about $1,500 TOPS! You can find re-geared dana 60's (as a pair) all day long for a grand of less.

he goes cheap up front and leaves the stock axle shafts in the D60. If anything, upgrade the front axle where it's going to take more abuse than the rear.

I'm sure it's a capable rig but I don't see the logic in the assembly.

I need to know where you are finding Dana 60s for a grand with gears... I found mine in OR and had it shipped to TX (Ford Drivers side Diff) and it was 1800 before i geared it locked it, did brakes bearings seals, high steer arms exc. i bet i have 3500 or close to in my Dana 60, and that's just the front...

the rear I did a Disc conversion, seals, bearings, gears, spool, and rock ring. I probably have 1600 in the rear.

And i bet the reason he did leafs in the rear are because he both ran out of money, and they are far easier than linked. Plus Rear Dana 60s cannot all accept the larger aftermarket shafts without being cut/honed out. I had to have my rear honed to fit the 35 spline shafts.

all that said, if this thing were not yellow, i would be interested even with a salvage title, but i would just want it as a family wheeler, not a DD

 

[1engineer]

Some people don't know when to stop digging, I guess. I mean, I could poke him some more, but he's doing such a good job of demonstrating what a tool he is, how could I possibly do better? I'm just a dirt-poor dummy that can't afford anything better than my shitty little '85, after all. :rofl:

HAHAHA! Classic, just classic. Yeah, you are right my friend! I will just take my poor little 4Runner and go crawl under the porch with the rest of the pups. I was taught a lesson once that I have never forgot:

"It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt."

 

[SV_Dude]

My buddy had a set of D60's front and rear, 4:10 gears, full float rear with rear disc brakes. He got them on craigslist for $1,200. He decided not to use them and sold them for the same price. 4:10 gears aren't anything to keep for a wheeler but gears are cheap in the overall build cost of axles.

 

[TOY2G]

My buddy had a set of D60's front and rear, 4:10 gears, full float rear with rear disc brakes. He got them on craigslist for $1,200. He decided not to use them and sold them for the same price. 4:10 gears aren't anything to keep for a wheeler but gears are cheap in the overall build cost of axles.

I have 5:38s with a detroit in teh front and 5:38s with a spool in the rear. the gears and spool are all Yukon (IMO the best brand on the market) and i want to say i spent about 800 on gears and another 900 on spool and locker.

gears were about 25% of my axle build, so you must have way deeper pockets than i do if that is cheap... I guess it all depends on what you consider "axle cost" because if you add in the cost of my full hydraulic PSC steering, and locking hubs, 35 spline shafts exc i guess the gears were only about 10%. so i can see it both ways i guess.

BTW i would gladly pay 1200 plus shipping for a Drivers side drop king pin dana 6o front and a rear with discs. Heck i would keep the 410s and get an atlas so my R&P would be stronger.

for the record, if you see a deal like that again....PLEASE post it up here for my sake.

 

[SV_Dude]

I may eat my words on this one. Maybe my buddy got a good deal on them but I just searched craigslist in my area and didn't see much for good axles. I did find a D60 rear with a HD44 front for a grand though.

And when I talk about the build cost of axles I'm talking about the total price of everything that attaches to the axle minus wheels. Gears, lockers, axles, armor, hydro stuff, hubs, etc. It gets expensive fast when dealing with the 60's. It's not hard to wrap up 5+ grand on a set of axles. Go and find some portals and you're a LOT more.

 

[TOY2G]

I may eat my words on this one. Maybe my buddy got a good deal on them but I just searched craigslist in my area and didn't see much for good axles. I did find a D60 rear with a HD44 front for a grand though.

And when I talk about the build cost of axles I'm talking about the total price of everything that attaches to the axle minus wheels. Gears, lockers, axles, armor, hydro stuff, hubs, etc. It gets expensive fast when dealing with the 60's. It's not hard to wrap up 5+ grand on a set of axles. Go and find some portals and you're a LOT more.

Man... if i could find a set of portals that were under 4k i would be puting them under my 4th gen. There is a guy in TX that has a set of portals for sale. They are umog portal outers and high pinion for 9" center with 4:88s and locked. all he wants for them is 10k AHHH :cheers:

 

[SV_Dude]

I forget the company but they make portal hubs for D60's... just saying.

 

[KidVermicious]

To get this thread back on track, the thing with salvage titles (and the reason I was laughing at the OP) is, there's no reason to be scared of one if you do your homework.

One of the things you agree to when you enter into a standard contract with an insurance company is that they will never have to pay you more than the vehicle is worth on the open market. So when they "total" a vehicle, all that means is that if the total cost of parts and labor to repair a vehicle to like new status are more than the (theoretical) market value of the vehicle, then they are contractually allowed to buy you out of it instead of paying to repair it. Then they're going to turn around and sell it at auction, and they end up making money coming and going. It's a complete ripoff.

What this means is, the market is full of salvage title vehicles that are repaired and perfectly driveable and are only "totalled" because some insurance agency saw a chance to make a quick buck. Don't assume that because a truck has a salvage title that something is wrong with it or that it hasn't been properly repaired after an accident. If you see something you like, take a closer look. Ask some questions, get an inspection done. There are some diamonds in the rough out there.

Or you could just assume it's worthless and move on. That works too, because it drives down the price for a guy like me that doesn't care if one body panel has gaps a 1/4in too large.

 

[Kraze]

I think it's easily worth 20 grand. I mean, look at those custom bumbers!

 

[nevada]

it will sell.
that's cheap.

I think you guys don't realize what those parts cost.

I bet theres better than $12k JUST in the differentials.

a salvaged titled means nothing. its based on an arbitrary number some insurance company used. literally it is based on a monetary value ONLY.

 

[nevada]

To get this thread back on track, the thing with salvage titles (and the reason I was laughing at the OP) is, there's no reason to be scared of one if you do your homework.

One of the things you agree to when you enter into a standard contract with an insurance company is that they will never have to pay you more than the vehicle is worth on the open market. So when they "total" a vehicle, all that means is that if the total cost of parts and labor to repair a vehicle to like new status are more than the (theoretical) market value of the vehicle, then they are contractually allowed to buy you out of it instead of paying to repair it. Then they're going to turn around and sell it at auction, and they end up making money coming and going. It's a complete ripoff.

What this means is, the market is full of salvage title vehicles that are repaired and perfectly driveable and are only "totalled" because some insurance agency saw a chance to make a quick buck. Don't assume that because a truck has a salvage title that something is wrong with it or that it hasn't been properly repaired after an accident. If you see something you like, take a closer look. Ask some questions, get an inspection done. There are some diamonds in the rough out there.

Or you could just assume it's worthless and move on. That works too, because it drives down the price for a guy like me that doesn't care if one body panel has gaps a 1/4in too large.

this.

I didn't see this before I posted.

 

[SV_Dude]

To get this thread back on track, the thing with salvage titles (and the reason I was laughing at the OP) is, there's no reason to be scared of one if you do your homework.

One of the things you agree to when you enter into a standard contract with an insurance company is that they will never have to pay you more than the vehicle is worth on the open market. So when they "total" a vehicle, all that means is that if the total cost of parts and labor to repair a vehicle to like new status are more than the (theoretical) market value of the vehicle, then they are contractually allowed to buy you out of it instead of paying to repair it. Then they're going to turn around and sell it at auction, and they end up making money coming and going. It's a complete ripoff.

What this means is, the market is full of salvage title vehicles that are repaired and perfectly driveable and are only "totalled" because some insurance agency saw a chance to make a quick buck. Don't assume that because a truck has a salvage title that something is wrong with it or that it hasn't been properly repaired after an accident. If you see something you like, take a closer look. Ask some questions, get an inspection done. There are some diamonds in the rough out there.

Or you could just assume it's worthless and move on. That works too, because it drives down the price for a guy like me that doesn't care if one body panel has gaps a 1/4in too large.

I agree with some points here but there are other considerations to think about.

From what I understand, insurance companies won't give you full coverage on a vehicle with a salvage title. I think it's legal reasons on the fact that once a vehicle is salvaged an insurance company cannot give full price for the same vehicle twice if it gets totalled again. A vehicle can only be considered a total loss once. So if you buy a 20k FJ that has a salvage title and it gets stolen or wrecked you're SOL.

Another thing to consider is registration. I went through this issues in Colorado with bob's 2nd gen. If the title says "SALVAGE" then Colorado won't touch it. It has to specifically say "REBUILT FROM SALVAGE". In order to do that you have to get a repair order from the shop that made it "road worthy" again and then do another inspection from your local PD to have then stamp off on the vehicle. There was a bunch more that I would have had to do to get bob's 4runner registered that I wasn't able to do which is ultamitely what led me to getting rid of it.

Overall, unless it was a trailer queen and I had no intentions of driving it on the road I will never buy another vehicle with a salvage title. They're much harder to sell, insure and register. They also don't hold their value so unless you get it for cheap then it's not worth the hassle.

 

[KidVermicious]

I think it's easily worth 20 grand. I mean, look at those custom bumbers!

 

[nevada]

I have 5:38s with a detroit in teh front and 5:38s with a spool in the rear. the gears and spool are all Yukon (IMO the best brand on the market) and i want to say i spent about 800 on gears and another 900 on spool and locker.

gears were about 25% of my axle build, so you must have way deeper pockets than i do if that is cheap... I guess it all depends on what you consider "axle cost" because if you add in the cost of my full hydraulic PSC steering, and locking hubs, 35 spline shafts exc i guess the gears were only about 10%. so i can see it both ways i guess.

BTW i would gladly pay 1200 plus shipping for a Drivers side drop king pin dana 6o front and a rear with discs. Heck i would keep the 410s and get an atlas so my R&P would be stronger.

for the record, if you see a deal like that again....PLEASE post it up here for my sake.

around here, any basic 60 front will cost you $800-1000. that's for totally stock crap. the hp(ford) 60's are even more.

rear 60's are CHEAP. I can buy them all day for $100.

 

[KidVermicious]

I agree with some points here but there are other considerations to think about.

From what I understand, insurance companies won't give you full coverage on a vehicle with a salvage title. I think it's legal reasons on the fact that once a vehicle is salvaged an insurance company cannot give full price for the same vehicle twice if it gets totalled again. A vehicle can only be considered a total loss once. So if you buy a 20k FJ that has a salvage title and it gets stolen or wrecked you're SOL.

Another thing to consider is registration. I went through this issues in Colorado with bob's 2nd gen. If the title says "SALVAGE" then Colorado won't touch it. It has to specifically say "REBUILT FROM SALVAGE". In order to do that you have to get a repair order from the shop that made it "road worthy" again and then do another inspection from your local PD to have then stamp off on the vehicle. There was a bunch more that I would have had to do to get bob's 4runner registered that I wasn't able to do which is ultamitely what led me to getting rid of it.

Overall, unless it was a trailer queen and I had no intentions of driving it on the road I will never buy another vehicle with a salvage title. They're much harder to sell, insure and register. They also don't hold their value so unless you get it for cheap then it's not worth the hassle.

This may be a state thing. Here in Utah, a vehicle gets a salvage title once an insurance company has written it off, but it's still a perfectly good title and can be registered and driven as long as passes safety like every other car. You can also have it inspected pre- and post-repair, and if the inspector likes what he sees he'll issue you a "rebuilt" title, or might even remove the title brand completely.

But that's obviously part of the homework when buying a salvage title vehicle, and it sounds like it's a PITA in Colorado. My point was though that insurance companies have an incentive to brand vehicles as "totalled" for damage that most of us would consider minor, because they pay you less money that way. A salvage title does not necessarily mean the vehicle is unsafe or undesirable, or even that there's anything wrong with it at all.

 

[SV_Dude]

This may be a state thing. Here in Utah, a vehicle gets a salvage title once an insurance company has written it off, but it's still a perfectly good title and can be registered and driven as long as passes safety like every other car. You can also have it inspected pre- and post-repair, and if the inspector likes what he sees he'll issue you a "rebuilt" title, or might even remove the title brand completely.

But that's obviously part of the homework when buying a salvage title vehicle, and it sounds like it's a PITA in Colorado. My point was though that insurance companies have an incentive to brand vehicles as "totalled" for damage that most of us would consider minor, because they pay you less money that way. A salvage title does not necessarily mean the vehicle is unsafe or undesirable, or even that there's anything wrong with it at all.

I thought that when an insurance company totals a vehicle it is out of their hands on the circumstances. When my wife was in an accident in our 03 4runner, State Farm told us that the damage has to be 40% or more of the vehicles NADA value to be considered a total loss. The damage amount is based on the average of 3 appraisals from the body shop/mechanics. That may also be a state thing too.

I do agree with you in the fact that a "SALVAGE" vehicle doesn't necessarily mean that it's a bad vehicle. But most people steer away from such titles for good reason.

 

[unlimitedFJ4]

This may be a state thing. Here in Utah, a vehicle gets a salvage title once an insurance company has written it off, but it's still a perfectly good title and can be registered and driven as long as passes safety like every other car. You can also have it inspected pre- and post-repair, and if the inspector likes what he sees he'll issue you a "rebuilt" title, or might even remove the title brand completely.

But that's obviously part of the homework when buying a salvage title vehicle, and it sounds like it's a PITA in Colorado. My point was though that insurance companies have an incentive to brand vehicles as "totalled" for damage that most of us would consider minor, because they pay you less money that way. A salvage title does not necessarily mean the vehicle is unsafe or undesirable, or even that there's anything wrong with it at all.

I don't know how they do things in Utah but over in california it is almost impossible to find an issuance company that will fully cover a salvaged title vehicle. They consider them a total loss, and completely worthless no matter how they were repaired. I have owned a salvage title when I was younger and it was nightmare to register and get insurance on. Have to go through a full CHP inspection and ref. They check every vin number, and every vin on every part that is on the car (it was a honda) and engine number. its a royal pain