What about my Limited? Do I need to run it in the other settings or not since it is full time 4WD?
What about my Limited? Do I need to run it in the other settings or not since it is full time 4WD?
You can get defensive all you want, but the fact is Toyota has literature (I provided a link to) which clearly states that engaging part-time 4wd on dry pavement is not recommended.
Also, the reason you don't get drivetrain binding with 4wd engaged on a trail (rocky, muddly,dirt, whatever) is because the tires have less traction on those surfaces (as compared to dry pavement) and thus the drivetrain doesn't experience the same amount of stress.
Question: Have you ever taken your 4Runner off road? Off road is not always mud or dirt. Sometimes you are on rock or one wheel off the ground and one wheel on a rock and you have the wheel cranked full lock to get around a stump or rock. Will it bind? Yes it will. Will it damage it? Nope. Could it damage it if you kept doing doughnuts in 4WD in a dry parking lot? Maybe and I wouldn't do that because that's just silly.
You will not damage it if you are on a dry paved road in 4WD and you do a full lock turn. If it would damage it there would be a lot of broken cases on the trail.
I don't have to be careful giving generic advice because I'm only stating facts. Ask the guys here who go off road regularly, especially [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION]. He lives off road and he is on slick rock which is not slick at all lol. [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] is off highway. [MENTION=66300]Intruder[/MENTION] too. Ask those guys and there are many more here who will tell you the same thing.
Just to clarify, the Toyota literature is there to make it idiot proof. People who have no mechanical understanding or awareness of what the vehicle is actually dong while driving it (80% of 4 runner owners) should follow those instructions. It's there as fire and forget type advice.
I've driven my 4runner in 4h for hundereds of miles (500+ to be exact) on perfectly dry pavement with 0 binding. Why? I was breaking in my gears. But I did use the technique of going back to 2h for sharp (under 20mph turns). I actually had to think about what I was doing while driving (imagine that)
As far as less stress offroad goes... You are way oversimplifying it. Sure, a dirt or muddy/snowy road will allow for the axles to spin at uneven rates with less stress, but that is just one of many scenarios encountered. Take something like Moab... That stuff can have way more traction than any road surface and the center diff will see extreme stress. There are many types of terrain and situations that create lots of binding stress off-road.
You are much better off trying to keep your wheels as straight as possible while climbing difficult obstacles, but that has more to do with the CV axles and how much vulnerable they are at angles than any drive-line binding.
Respectfully disagree. In an oversimplified world yes, in the real world on very rough and rocky terrain it does not happen that way. Just the fact that you are in 4Lo increases tq load potential quite a bit, then you have all the spinning and catching with lots of dynamic loads... These are generally things you try to avoid, but it does happen.Sure, if you found a flat and straight piece of rock and started doing repeated K-turns in 4wd mode, you might start to induce some stress (at that point, I would probably switch back into 2wd). But in general, off-road (even on rocks) the wheels have less traction and thus less stress for the whole 4wd system.
Here's what my manual says:
You should drive in four-wheel drive for at least 10 miles (16km) each month. This will assure that the front drive components are lubricated.
This is from a manual that has a couple of pages on how to tighten a gas cap.
I'm pretty sure driving 10 miles in H4 on drive pavement isn't going to harm my 4Runner. I'm equally sure that H4 should be used primarily in off-road/icy/snow-covered adventures (that's in the manual too).
Now, who wants the first hug?
All of this has already been said many times over.
And the argument you were referring to has already ended.
But welcome to the party all the same...:clap2:
Respectfully disagree. In an oversimplified world yes, in the real world on very rough and rocky terrain it does not happen that way. Just the fact that you are in 4Lo increases tq load potential quite a bit, then you have all the spinning and catching with lots of dynamic loads... These are generally things you try to avoid, but it does happen.
The stresses on the center diff off-road are much more extreme than anything you could ever induce in normal on-road driving conditions.
Maybe this would be worth starting another thread over, but I'm not following what you're saying here. What do you mean by dynamic loads on off-road terrain? And where, besides Moab, are you driving over long stretches of clean rocky surfaces? What does driving in 4Lo have to do with undue stress on the 4wd system? I'm not trying to disprove what you're saying, I'm just trying to get some clarification on what you are saying.
You can hear when drivetrain binding is occurring. You don't necessarily hear the drivetrain itself getting messed up or stressed; rather you can hear the inside tires skip/stutter when you make a sharp turn with 4wd engaged on dry pavement. I've driven on dry rock surfaces before (though not Moab) and have yet to hear those same sounds I heard when I drove on dry pavement.
I did not even know we were supposed to do this 10 mile hi4 thing monthly. What is the max speed that I should follow for the 10 mile trip? I am new to non full time 4x4 cars. My last 5 SUVs were full time 4x4s.
In 4lo there is more torque applied to the drive line. It isn't uncommon to be spinning tires, or for a tire to be spinning in the air, then abruptly regain traction. You are also likely aired down and your tires have far more grip at 12psi than at 40.
On slick rock, you feel binding and tires bark loudly, often.