Another Bilstein 5100 question

So I realize this is a Bilstein 5100 thread. But I'm curious if any of you know if the OME springs, say maybe an 885, fit on a 6112 model with no issues?
 
I'm new to trucks/lifts/offroading, etc. I come from a modded Subaru STi. While the lifts look good, my worry is about working on the truck in my attached garage. What are you guys doing who have 2.5"+ lifts when you need to wrench on it? I don't think I'd have much space to put it on jack stands.
 
So I realize this is a Bilstein 5100 thread. But I'm curious if any of you know if the OME springs, say maybe an 885, fit on a 6112 model with no issues?

You can not use those coils with a 6112.

That said, 6112 comes with coils which are only 10lb stiffer than the 885. It would end up feeling around the same.
 
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I'm new to trucks/lifts/offroading, etc. I come from a modded Subaru STi. While the lifts look good, my worry is about working on the truck in my attached garage. What are you guys doing who have 2.5"+ lifts when you need to wrench on it? I don't think I'd have much space to put it on jack stands.

Do it on the driveway
 
I'm new to trucks/lifts/offroading, etc. I come from a modded Subaru STi. While the lifts look good, my worry is about working on the truck in my attached garage. What are you guys doing who have 2.5"+ lifts when you need to wrench on it? I don't think I'd have much space to put it on jack stands.

lol... You don't always have to put the truck on jack stands to work on it...

With a 2.5" lift I have enough room on a creeper to get under the truck without needing a jack. I do all my fluids, oil change, and other work without a jack or stands. That said often times I do remove the spare for clearance.

For the times I do need a jack & stands, like when I installed the suspension, I do have to be mindful of the ceiling... My roof rack is only a few inches from the top.

For saftey I do disconnect the garage door because it would hit the truck if it was accidentally opened.
 
lol... You don't always have to put the truck on jack stands to work on it...

With a 2.5" lift I have enough room on a creeper to get under the truck without needing a jack. I do all my fluids, oil change, and other work without a jack or stands. That said often times I do remove the spare for clearance.

For the times I do need a jack & stands, like when I installed the suspension, I do have to be mindful of the ceiling... My roof rack is only a few inches from the top.

For saftey I do disconnect the garage door because it would hit the truck if it was accidentally opened.

That's what I meant. Rotating tires, suspension, etc. I realize I could change the oil w/o having to jack it up. I'm kind of excited for that part, actually. If you have a long travel suspension and a lift, I imagine you're out of luck in a garage with a low ceiling like mine w/o getting crafty (have a stand hold at floor level, then put a jack on the suspension for each wheel). The lowest part of the ceiling just behind the opener is about at the height of the garage door when it's open.

All of that said, is there a stock height shock out there that gets rid of the brake dive and body roll like the 5100's are reported to do? I have ZERO body roll in my car, and it's taking a lot of getting used to on the soft ride of my 96k mile stock suspension in the 4r.
 
That's what I meant. Rotating tires, suspension, etc. I realize I could change the oil w/o having to jack it up. I'm kind of excited for that part, actually. If you have a long travel suspension and a lift, I imagine you're out of luck in a garage with a low ceiling like mine w/o getting crafty (have a stand hold at floor level, then put a jack on the suspension for each wheel). The lowest part of the ceiling just behind the opener is about at the height of the garage door when it's open.

All of that said, is there a stock height shock out there that gets rid of the brake dive and body roll like the 5100's are reported to do? I have ZERO body roll in my car, and it's taking a lot of getting used to on the soft ride of my 96k mile stock suspension in the 4r.

I was just trying to give you a hard time... I have a lot of car friends and love rubbing in the "truck life" stuff.

My housing situation is one of the biggest reasons I haven't LT the runner yet... never-mind working on the truck, I can't even garage it and I like that I can.

For the 2.5" ish height I don't really have any problems, at least I haven't run into one that is stopping me from actually getting something done (yet). I do all my own rotations and do get the truck on stands anytime there is real work to do.

Regarding brake dive... you actually wan't some. Its part of braking dynamics/geometry. Its built in for a reason. Plus its not a race car, you want some compliance in your suspension.

That said, the 5100 shock will feel stiffer than stock, it has a very pretty street-centric feel if that's what you are going for. It should help tame some of that body roll/dive.

It can also be run at stock heights, you dont have to lift with a 5100. The 5100 is designed for 0-2.5" of lift, so just change the shocks and run your stock OEM springs.

If you wanted something better, you can always step into a 6112 or something that has adjusters and really fine tune that ride but that is going to up the costs.

As far as OE replacement for the street, 5100 is my go-to, I use it on other trucks as well like my Silverado.
 
I was just trying to give you a hard time... I have a lot of car friends and love rubbing in the "truck life" stuff.

My housing situation is one of the biggest reasons I haven't LT the runner yet... never-mind working on the truck, I can't even garage it and I like that I can.

For the 2.5" ish height I don't really have any problems, at least I haven't run into one that is stopping me from actually getting something done (yet). I do all my own rotations and do get the truck on stands anytime there is real work to do.

Regarding brake dive... you actually wan't some. Its part of braking dynamics/geometry. Its built in for a reason. Plus its not a race car, you want some compliance in your suspension.

That said, the 5100 shock will feel stiffer than stock, it has a very pretty street-centric feel if that's what you are going for. It should help tame some of that body roll/dive.

It can also be run at stock heights, you dont have to lift with a 5100. The 5100 is designed for 0-2.5" of lift, so just change the shocks and run your stock OEM springs.

If you wanted something better, you can always step into a 6112 or something that has adjusters and really fine tune that ride but that is going to up the costs.

As far as OE replacement for the street, 5100 is my go-to, I use it on other trucks as well like my Silverado.

lol, it's definitely not a race car. To get more specific with my goal, it's to be able to carry a bit more speed through turns w/o feeling like I'm going to tip the thing over. I'm not talking about racing through the streets or anything, I just want some better cornering stability. I'm glad I can do the 5100s. They're quite cheap!
 
lol, it's definitely not a race car. To get more specific with my goal, it's to be able to carry a bit more speed through turns w/o feeling like I'm going to tip the thing over. I'm not talking about racing through the streets or anything, I just want some better cornering stability. I'm glad I can do the 5100s. They're quite cheap!

I know this isn't the answer you want to hear, but you bought the wrong 4Runner... and I mean that in the nicest way possible.

I don't know if you ever got a chance to drive a Limited with X-REAS but it's really next level feeling for those that want a street truck.

I get to beat on one every couple months I am a bit blown away on how planted it feels though turns and higher speed mountain cruising. Similar to the type of sensation you feel from a good road car with a tuned roll-bar setup, it inspires a lot of confidence when compared to the stock suspension. Even 5100s wont get you there.

X-REAS sucks if you want to lift it right out of the gate, but for those city dwellers who like SUVs, its about the best package to get from Toyota at least.

Perhaps keep an eye out for a X-REAS take-offs from a Limited owner than is modding for off-road... I see them every so-often.
 
I know this isn't the answer you want to hear, but you bought the wrong 4Runner... and I mean that in the nicest way possible.

I don't know if you ever got a chance to drive a Limited with X-REAS but it's really next level feeling for those that want a street truck.

I get to beat on one every couple months I am a bit blown away on how planted it feels though turns and higher speed mountain cruising. Similar to the type of sensation you feel from a good road car with a tuned roll-bar setup, it inspires a lot of confidence when compared to the stock suspension. Even 5100s wont get you there.

X-REAS sucks if you want to lift it right out of the gate, but for those city dwellers who like SUVs, its about the best package to get from Toyota at least.

Perhaps keep an eye out for a X-REAS take-offs from a Limited owner than is modding for off-road... I see them every so-often.

I was reading about the x-reas system when shopping for 4runners, but I got mine at 3k under blue book so it was hard to pass up. I'll learn to live with it. I still have my fun car for nice weather days :banana:
 
Absolutely... and I wasn't trying to make you feel bad, its just a really nice option that is often passed over because its only available on the Limited.

Personally I feel it should have been made available to the SR5 in addition to the Limited. The trail already has its own sort of fancy (KDSS) to help on and off-road, but not at the same level the X-REAS would on street.

The 5100 is still a solid choice, I know the SR5 has a bit of squish to it so that's probably what you are trying to improve.

If you don't plan to lift, keep an eye out for an X-REAS take off... those are good parts that often go to waste when upgrading.
 
Ok, have a quick question. Should I be getting a alignment done right after 5100 are installed or should I drive around for a bit and let them settle and then do the alignment...?
 
Ok, have a quick question. Should I be getting a alignment done right after 5100 are installed or should I drive around for a bit and let them settle and then do the alignment...?

Settling won't have an effect on the alignment. Take it in as soon as you can!
 
Hi, I have a question on the ride after installing the 5100s. I have an SR5, and am wondering what the feedback is on the ride with 5100s and stock springs? I would just put the 5100s on but my wife really likes how this 5th get rides stock.

I have 5100s on our 4th gen SR5 and the 5100s were a big improvement in performance and control, but were noticeably firmer compared to the stock shocks.

The 5th gen seems to have much better stock shocks than the 4th gens did.
 
Settling won't have an effect on the alignment. Take it in as soon as you can!
That's a broad blanket statement. Settling absolutely will have an effect. To what degree, is different on every vehicle. Its best to have it done immediately after, but plan to have it double checked 500-1000 miles after the lift is installed.

I've witnessed it personally. Settling will occur and usually its in the camber where you see changes.
 
Got my 883 front coils + a 10mm top place spacer installed. VERRY happy with the current setup.
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How much front lift does the 883 give? Nice setup!!!



Nice set up! Did you place the top plate spacer on both sides or just one to even out the lean? Do you have any other side shots of the lift?


Fronts - bilstein 5100 (set to 0 no lift) paired with 2" OME 883 coils and an OME 10mm spacer on top of the strut assembly. THIS yielded about a 2.2inch lift in the front.

Tears - bilstein 5100 & OME 2895E coils with 1 single OME TRIM PACKER 10mm spacer on the drivers rear. This yielded a perfect 2" lift.


I am VERY happy with the way this setup rides. It's a match made in heaven. It rides really smooth, there isn't a ton of lean or yaw. It flexes really well off road. It's not harsh and it's far from soft. This is probably the best economy lift on a budget you can do IMO. Very inexpensive & no cut corners on reliability or performance. Will post some more shots once I get some



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