Another lift question
- Thread starter rok medic
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CF_Machete
Senior Member
If you go 3 in the front and nothing in the back, your front end will be higher than the rear and look like you're hauling rocks in the back. Plenty of lift & level kits w/ diff drops on the toytec site with varying price ranges.
Jhalko
New member
Not to mention you'll need new UCA's.
Read this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92125-spacer-lift-vs-full-lift-kit.html
Read this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92125-spacer-lift-vs-full-lift-kit.html
Jhalko
New member
Approximately, depends on any other mods or weight carried. Probably still going to want UCA's, especially if you are putting bigger, heavier tires on.
Diesel_Dog
New member
You can only do a spacer lift if you want to keep the xreas.
I called these guys, they said you can't lift an xreas at all. Although they say it will on there website but also says you need a compressor to install but other company's-like daystar , toy tech say you can . I guess I'm wondering if this kit would work didn't look different than the others ?
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Ok so I just order the motofab billet 2.5 " spacers that I have seen in stores for $200 there on sale on eBay for $37 and $20 diff drop and skid kit ,so we'll see how well my $57 budget lift goes will post pics after I install it . It measure at 19.5 " up front and 22 "even on both rear tires so it should be level probably going to grab a set of the 1" poly spacers on Amazon for $30 for the rear
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delloro
New member
Metric sockets from 10mm to 21mm. Or maybe 22 or 23mm. I forget. Def at least 21mm.
Torque wrench.
Metric combo wrenches, especially the 14mm IIRC for the inboard upper shock nut.
Wire or zip ties to hold caliper. Wires and brake lines must not be stretched.
Good quality, tall-enough jack stands.
Anti-seize.
Be advised that your jack needs to be 2.5" higher when the job is done.
Careful when manipulating the sway bar. Squeeze the rubber boots on the sway bar links at all and the grease will come out. If I were to do it over again, I would remove the skid plate first, remove the sway bar mounts, disconnect the sway bar links from the spindles, and rotate the assembly up and forward, out of the way. Then carry on with the rest.
Make sure your jack is tall enough. My full-size craftsman floor jack almost is not.
ETA you will also need a BFH to break the upper spindle joint loose. I have a 3-lb. copper hammer and it did take a few whacks.
Torque wrench.
Metric combo wrenches, especially the 14mm IIRC for the inboard upper shock nut.
Wire or zip ties to hold caliper. Wires and brake lines must not be stretched.
Good quality, tall-enough jack stands.
Anti-seize.
Be advised that your jack needs to be 2.5" higher when the job is done.
Careful when manipulating the sway bar. Squeeze the rubber boots on the sway bar links at all and the grease will come out. If I were to do it over again, I would remove the skid plate first, remove the sway bar mounts, disconnect the sway bar links from the spindles, and rotate the assembly up and forward, out of the way. Then carry on with the rest.
Make sure your jack is tall enough. My full-size craftsman floor jack almost is not.
ETA you will also need a BFH to break the upper spindle joint loose. I have a 3-lb. copper hammer and it did take a few whacks.
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