TheDurk
Elite Member
Honestly, I don't know. Always better to match everything but there may be a workaround, at least on the a/C. I haven't studied it. But Cali/Fed HAS to match.
Another Manual Transmission Swap Question
- Thread starter xcmtb83
- Start date
Honestly, I don't know. Always better to match everything but there may be a workaround, at least on the a/C. I haven't studied it. But Cali/Fed HAS to match.
Team_Jake
Member
[MENTION=190086]brisamh[/MENTION]
There exists a M/T ECU for your 2000 (if you have a 5VZ) that’s plug and play. If you can tell me your A/T ECU part number (you don’t even have to remove it to see the part number: Remove the glove box, remove the three 10mm hex bolts holding the black trim behind the glove box, unhook the trim from the sides and from the wire loom, and take your phone and stick it up above and in front of the ECU and take a picture with the flash on...should take 5 minutes to take apart, take a picture, and put back together) I can tell you what M/T ECU part number is a perfect match.
As for the anti-theft stuff, do you have a red blinking security light either on the left side of your steering wheel or next to the back window up/down switch in the center dash? If you don’t, you don’t have to worry about anything else. If you do, then on the new ECU you will have to get the IC900 chip reflashed with an EEPROM chip reader and re-program all your keys, or copy over the values from your A/T ECU chip over the the M/T ECU chip. Any certified locksmith should be able to do that for ~$200.
There exists a M/T ECU for your 2000 (if you have a 5VZ) that’s plug and play. If you can tell me your A/T ECU part number (you don’t even have to remove it to see the part number: Remove the glove box, remove the three 10mm hex bolts holding the black trim behind the glove box, unhook the trim from the sides and from the wire loom, and take your phone and stick it up above and in front of the ECU and take a picture with the flash on...should take 5 minutes to take apart, take a picture, and put back together) I can tell you what M/T ECU part number is a perfect match.
As for the anti-theft stuff, do you have a red blinking security light either on the left side of your steering wheel or next to the back window up/down switch in the center dash? If you don’t, you don’t have to worry about anything else. If you do, then on the new ECU you will have to get the IC900 chip reflashed with an EEPROM chip reader and re-program all your keys, or copy over the values from your A/T ECU chip over the the M/T ECU chip. Any certified locksmith should be able to do that for ~$200.
anniesball72
Member
Is the theft oem or dealer installed? I don’t think the theft has anything to do with the ECM but could be wrong...
Is it true the digital climate control interfaces the ECM? I wouldn’t think so but could be wrong.
On my 02 SR5 I had to use a 2003 or 2004 Tacoma M/T ECM to clear all my cel.
Passes smog no problem in CA
Chim
New member
I was wrong about the security part, I was thinking about the key with transmitter. I don't have the security light that comes from factory. It is the true digital climate but I have no idea if it interfaces with ecm. I would think the AC does?
So maybe I would still be good with the Tacoma ECM.
brisamh
New member
This is super helpful thank you, my car is in storage but i will have access to it this weekend. I can tell you rn that I don't have a stock anti theft device, no blinky red. will provide the ECU info later! thanks so much for your help
brisamh
New member
Wow only took me a few months to find the time for this. I believe my truck is Cali (from counting cats) . Here's a link to photos of my ECU. They're garbage, was really hard to get a good pic and the label is messed up
2000 a/t 4*4 ecu - Google Photos
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brisamh
New member
More info...
[MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION]
since my sticker is garbage, I used Toyota Engine Control Module - Guaranteed Genuine and entered my VIN to see what they show as my ECU
I get: Engine Control ModulePart Number: 89666-35140 and Engine Control ModulePart Number: 89666-35170 CALIFORNIA SPEC. Based on the last picture in the photo album; I'm guessing my truck is cali since I have two cats.... so I believe 89666-35170 is my current ECU P/N.
This seem right to you?
2000 4x4 A/T SR5 ordered 9/99 and sold 5/2000
[MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION]
since my sticker is garbage, I used Toyota Engine Control Module - Guaranteed Genuine and entered my VIN to see what they show as my ECU
I get: Engine Control ModulePart Number: 89666-35140 and Engine Control ModulePart Number: 89666-35170 CALIFORNIA SPEC. Based on the last picture in the photo album; I'm guessing my truck is cali since I have two cats.... so I believe 89666-35170 is my current ECU P/N.
This seem right to you?
2000 4x4 A/T SR5 ordered 9/99 and sold 5/2000
Team_Jake
Member
I think I can read the last 3 numbers on your ECU, it looks like it says "170", so you have the ECU 89666-35170. The ECU you need then for the manual swap is 89666-35160. Happy hunting!
brisamh
New member
And just like that, I find a listing on eBay for that exact p/n for under $300! Boom!!! Thanks for you help, guess my procrastinating paid off.... Most ECUs for M/T I've seen go for 600+
4RunnerSega
New member
[MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION]
I am trying to do a manual swap on my 98 T4R also, and am curious if you would be able to let me know the exact ECU that I need to be hunting for if I gave you my current ECU p/n...
TIA
I am trying to do a manual swap on my 98 T4R also, and am curious if you would be able to let me know the exact ECU that I need to be hunting for if I gave you my current ECU p/n...
TIA
Team_Jake
Member
Assuming you have a 4x4 5VZ, you currently have the following ECU part number 89661-3D370, 89661-3D371, or 89661-3D372. The equivalent M/T part number is either 89661-3D360, 89661-3D361, or 89661-3D362. I doubt there is a major difference between the three parts numbers, I imagine any one of those will work. Finding one is the hardest part. Check ebay or car-part and keep checking regularly, or check the local salvage yard for the exact donor vehicle. Good luck!
And for anyone else needing to figure out which ECU to get, go to a Toyota parts website, like ToyotaPartsDeal.com and enter in all your 4Runner information. See which ECU matches your vehicle, and then change your vehicle information to M/T. I then usually compare/confirm using google images.
4RunnerSega
New member
Thanks a million [MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION]
906-Runner
New member
So if I'm planning on swapping a 5speeder and rear locker from my 2000 into my 1999 I shouldn't need to re-pin anything correct? Both are SR5 without anti-theft stuffs. My 2000 is all intact with all the parts necessary, just wondering if anything electrical will need to be changed? Rear locker or Transmission?
Are you swapping wiring harnesses and ecm's? You'll need to transfer all the elocker wiring, module, and switch over.
906-Runner
New member
That’s kinda what I’m wondering, so in order to keep everything factory looking and functions correctly; would I be better off pulling the entire dash harness out of both and swapping them? Since I have the parts vehicle readily available?
I was referring to the engine/transmission harness. It'll have different connectors for transmissions.
As for the body harness side, there will be a couple connectors that are different for the park/neutral vs clutch, ect power button vs none on manual, and the clusters will be different. I can't comment on the rest of the body harness being the same. 1999 and 2000 are the closest to each other wiring wise but I don't know for sure that it's the same with the exceptions listed before.
Why are you swapping?
St Runner
Member
I don't think it is ever worth it to replace the dash harness, unless mice chewed it up and it won't run. If you are using the engine harness and ecu from the manual then repin any differences in the ecu (there might not even be any), run a wire across behind the dash for the clutch start ( I only needed one on my 97) and then figure out wether you want factory for the elocker or aftermarket. If you are prewired for the locker go factory. If you are not prewired its way easier to go aftermarket, plus the ability to lock the rear when it is not in 4low
Team_Jake
Member
I'm pretty sure the pin connectors on the ECU are the same between the 1999 and 2000 (I know they are for California emissions, not sure if its the same for federal). The e-locker is a different story, but I know [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] did a video on an e-locker swap with details on the wiring.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The dash will be wired for the e-locker, the only harness that may need to get swapped is the one that goes down the driver's side kick panel.
Heck, my 2WD dash harness had the required 4WD plugs (ADD relay, basically).
-Charlie
906-Runner
New member
I don't think I'm prewired for elocker though, I've had the dash apart trying to figure out why my dome light doesn't work and have found no plug under the dash that the locker switch from my parts 4Runner will clip into. I did find two other plugs; a black one with four pins and a white one with seven
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